Dry Mounting 20x24s

[pdmoylan]

Over the years many of my matted and framed 20x24 images (my standard size from 4x5) have developed "waves" in the prints. They are more apparent when the print material is thinner (i.e. Fuji Crystal). Since professional framers do most of the work for me, they are now recommending dry mounting. It entails using many evenly spaced, tiny balls of adhesive to a thin acid free substrate. It adds another $35 per print.

Has anyone used this technique successfully? Are there other equally viable alternatives?

Thanks.

[Greg Lockrey]

I never had that problem.... (knock on wood as I tap my head) guess I have the platen adjusted correctly.

[Ed Kelsey]

I never heard of that mounting method. Tiny balls of adhesive? Is that some kind of joke? I suggest you dry mount yourself with dry mount tissue like RagMount or ColorMount.

[Drew Wiley]

What you are referring to is not "drymounting" but some type of cold mounting using
an acrylic transfer adhesive. There are many kinds of these. Some work over the long
term, some don't. The better adhesive foils are hi-tack permanent sheets which require special equipment and experience. The 3M repositionable type has "little balls"
which are crushed with pressure once the print is correctly positioned, but is not likely
to hold a 20x24 print over the long run - it's too weak an adhesive for a print this size,
if this indeed is what they are referring to. There was also a Gudy system which used
dispersed acrlic tabs - it was a good quality adhesive but wouldn't prevent wrinkling
completely.

[Daniel Stone]

just get it dry mounted(heat press).

tried and true method, and with archival matboard and drymount tissue, you shouldn't be worried about the print or board failing.

-Dan

[Drew Wiley]

Drymounting is NOT the cat's meow for RC paper, including CA color paper. Most tissues require too much heat and there is a risk of either bonding failure or creating
an uneven mottle on the surface of the print, or an orangepeel effect due to the heat
conforming the paper to the texture of the board. If you want to try it, however, make sure you use a thick silicon-heated release board to even out the heat. Traditionally Colormount was used.

[Asher Kelman]

Drymounting is NOT the cat's meow for RC paper, including CA color paper. Most tissues require too much heat and there is a risk of either bonding failure or creating
an uneven mottle on the surface of the print, or an orangepeel effect due to the heat
conforming the paper to the texture of the board. If you want to try it, however, make sure you use a thick silicon-heated release board to even out the heat. Traditionally Colormount was used.

Drew,

Where does one place the release board?

What about ColorMount® adhesive? Is that as reliable and archival. Is it feasable to use an ordinary electric iron?

Thanks,

Asher

[vinny]

I've had lots of issues with dry mounting crystal archive paper and colormount. sometimes they hold up fine, other times the prints pop off the mount a month later. orange peel texture on glossy paper sucks too. I now use 3m PMA instead.