BTZS tubes - nice equipment

[chassis]

Received a set of 4x5 BTZS film developing tubes today from Badger Graphic. They look pretty well made. The tubes have a nice heft, the threads function well and an o-ring is included to reduce leaks.

The tempering tray also is nice. The material is thicker than I expected, and has a nice look and feel. I'm looking forward to using this setup.

I am going to mix up some soup tomorrow. On Sunday I will process my first-ever 4x5 negatives, and first film of any type in about 8 years.

[Jon Wilson]

I used a set for the first time tonight. They are very handy and easy to use. I did learn that you need to be careful when "rolling them" so that the lid does not screw off. It almost happened during the development stage. I would have diluted my 1:1 Xtol mix. Also do not insert the 4x5 film too deep or it will make it more difficult to remove from the tube after it is fixed.

Jon

[chassis]

Thanks for the tip, Jon.

[Brian Ellis]

I used the tubes for years. For me the easiest way to remove the film was to hold the tube in one hand and put the thumb of the other hand on the film. Exert some pressure against the film/inside of the tube and while exerting pressure lift your thumb up. That will raise an edge of the film above the edge of the tube and then you can just grab the edge and pull the film out. It takes a lot longer to read this than it does to do it.

[kev curry]

You might find this useful its part 1 of a two part video tutorial on using the tubes by Fred Newman.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMXQO5ATgiY

[chassis]

I processed two sheets of Tri-X tonight and things seem to have gone pretty well. Unloading the film holders went OK - I struggled a little to get the film to slip out of the holder. Loading the tubes was pretty easy. I loaded them upside down, into tube caps pre-filled with developer, then got myself situated before starting agitation.

Agitation was very easy, no problems at all getting the hang of it. I was a little nervous emptying the first tube, getting it into the stop bath, and emptying the second tube and getting it into the stop. My concern was uneven development on the tube I left with developer in it, while emptying and stopping the first tube. The tubes then went into a tray of fixer for a minute or two. Getting the film out of the tubes went pretty well, then into film holders for a soak in a rubber tank of fixer.

The negatives look fairly well exposed. I am not sure about contrast, though. I used D-76 stock solution at 75 deg F. I usually use D-76 1:1 at 68F but it just didn't happen that way due to my 8 year hiatus from my darkroom practices. So my concern is the contrast may be a bit on the high side because of the warmish, relatively concentrated developer. I did use the time recommended by Kodak on the Tri-X tech pub, so I shouldn't be too far off.

Thanks for letting my carry on. I am really happy to be back in the darkroom, and trying something new for me, which is large format.

[Brian Ellis]

I used to wonder a little about uneven development when some of the tubes lay stationary in the water jacket while removing film from one. But it was never an actual problem.

[frednewman]

Hi Chassis

If you have any questions on using the BTZS tubes or film testing, please check my videos on youtube.com. You can find all the videos by doing a search on the word "viewcamerastore". I started doing the videos because it was a lot easier to understand by watching the videos first. If you have more questions, please email or call me.

Fred Newman

[lmlmlm]

The tubes are great. Just got a couple myself a few weeks ago, and seriously simplified my processing & time in the darkroom. Not using gloves any more, since you barely need to touch the chemicals directly this way, and the light is on for most of the process. Development is even and dust free, would never go back to trays.

[chassis]

Mr. Newman, I have watched your videos and they were very clear and helpful.

[Zaitz]

Aren't most stated times for intermittent agitation? With the BTZS tubes and constant agitation doesn't time need to be shortened to compensate?

[Brian Ellis]

Aren't most stated times for intermittent agitation? With the BTZS tubes and constant agitation doesn't time need to be shortened to compensate?

I always tested to determine times for normal, plus and minus development and the tests were made the same way I'd be processing - constant in the case of the tubes. I don't know about using manufacturer's stated times, I never did that.

[Zaitz]

I always tested to determine times for normal, plus and minus development and the tests were made the same way I'd be processing - constant in the case of the tubes. I don't know about using manufacturer's stated times, I never did that.

I think most times on places like this use normal agitation unless otherwise noted:
http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

So I had to adjust time based on that.

[chassis]

I used developing times from the Kodak tech pub for Tri-X and D-76. It worked very well. The agitation I used was more or less continuous (sinusoidal?). I used the technique shown by Mr. Newman in his videos. I was only processing two sheets of film (two tubes) but the technique of rolling the tubes in the tempering bath was pretty much the same as in the video.

After development, I opened the tubes, dumped the developer, then put the tubes in a tray of stop bath and rotated. Then I put the tubes into a tray of fixer for 2 minutes, then took the sheets out of the tubes, put them in stainless film holders, and fixed for 15 minutes in a rubber tank of fixer.

[Jay DeFehr]

I prefer to keep the chemicals inside the tube, where the film is.

[welly]

Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

I've just ordered a set of the tubes (this morning) as I've been keen to give this a go and see if my development process can be improved. I'm very happy with my slosher and tray combination, I wouldn't mind having lights on while developing my film! Just waiting for them to be shipped now.

Question regarding taking the tubes out of the water bath and the concern (put to rest by Brian?). Would removing all the tubes out of the tray that are finished developing and standing them on their end (ie. with on their end caps) work? That would mean the chemicals would be sat in the end caps while you remove the developer from the previous tube.

Secondly, what size tray for stop and fixer would I need? I've got a pretty wide range of trays so probably have one to suit but "just in case"!

And how much stop/fixer do I need in those additional trays?

I think that's it for now! I shall come back to this thread when I receive my tubes and will no doubt have more questions.

[chassis]

welly,

Congrats that you are going to try this method.

When I dump the developer, I take one tube out of the water bath, unscrew the top, dump the developer, put the tube in the stop bath, and give it a twirl. Repeat with remaining tubes. My thinking is the time from first tube to last is not significant, especially when you have practiced a bit. After all tubes are in the stop, roll them for about 30 seconds, then drain the stop and move into the fixer tray.

I use trays for 8x10 prints, to stop and fix the film in tubes prior to unloading into metal hangers. The length of the tube+cap is slightly less than the 8" dimension of the tray, and fits nicely.

The trays have about an inch of solution in them.

[welly]

welly,

Congrats that you are going to try this method.

When I dump the developer, I take one tube out of the water bath, unscrew the top, dump the developer, put the tube in the stop bath, and give it a twirl. Repeat with remaining tubes. My thinking is the time from first tube to last is not significant, especially when you have practiced a bit. After all tubes are in the stop, roll them for about 30 seconds, then drain the stop and move into the fixer tray.

I use trays for 8x10 prints, to stop and fix the film in tubes prior to unloading into metal hangers. The length of the tube+cap is slightly less than the 8" dimension of the tray, and fits nicely.

The trays have about an inch of solution in them.

Awesome, thanks chassis! I shall be looking forward to receiving my tubes and "futzing (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?95720-BTZS-vs-JOBO&p=943152&viewfull=1#post943152)" around with them!