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atlcruiser
5-Jun-2011, 17:36
Hi All,
I seem to have gotten better results with the streaking issues in the JOBO with 810 porta. I stopped doing any sort of presoak and it seemed to help.

The photo below is porta 160NC @ 120. Fresh tetenal mix, pre heated tank, solid temp of 104', JOBO 2830 tank on a bessler reversing roller base. I had another sheet in the same tank with this and it came out perfect.

There is a slight streak in the sky but the real issue is the color cast on the upper RHS of the photo. This seems to go all the way into the rebate with the rebate being a deep magenta then fading into black. The area affected was at the top of the tank.

There was a slight bit of vingetting on the top RHS as well. I slightly cropped it to get rid of the worst of it.

Any thoughts?

I love the 810 C41 prints and hope to contact print them eventually. I now use a color meter and try to fix the colores on the negative to get a leg up on the contact prints once I get to that point. I am a bit frustrated that I seem to have so many issues with color/810 and doing the developing at home. Any help will be appreciated :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/5800567411_9006c4d5a6_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53092319@N04/5800567411/)
0611 4 810 CLR.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53092319@N04/5800567411/) by urbanlandcruiser (http://www.flickr.com/people/53092319@N04/), on Flickr

Asher Kelman
5-Jun-2011, 17:52
Hi All,
I seem to have gotten better results with the streaking issues in the JOBO with 810 porta. I stopped doing any sort of presoak and it seemed to help.

The photo below is porta 160NC @ 120. Fresh tetenal mix, pre heated tank, solid temp of 104', JOBO 2830 tank on a bessler reversing roller base. I had another sheet in the same tank with this and it came out perfect.

There is a slight streak in the sky but the real issue is the color cast on the upper RHS of the photo. This seems to go all the way into the rebate with the rebate being a deep magenta then fading into black. The area affected was at the top of the tank.

There was a slight bit of vingetting on the top RHS as well. I slightly cropped it to get rid of the worst of it.

Any thoughts?

I love the 810 C41 prints and hope to contact print them eventually. I now use a color meter and try to fix the colores on the negative to get a leg up on the contact prints once I get to that point. I am a bit frustrated that I seem to have so many issues with color/810 and doing the developing at home. Any help will be appreciated :)

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3413/5800567411_9006c4d5a6_b.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53092319@N04/5800567411/)
0611 4 810 CLR.jpg (http://www.flickr.com/photos/53092319@N04/5800567411/) by urbanlandcruiser (http://www.flickr.com/people/53092319@N04/), on Flickr

If you were scanning this picture, that color could be corrected in Photoshop in no time at all. Really, you've done superbly well for color with a drum in the air! I've no idea whether temp fluctuations could have caused this. However, can this be rolled by hand in a bath on a set of passive rollers?

Asher

Asher

atlcruiser
5-Jun-2011, 18:59
If you were scanning this picture, that color could be corrected in Photoshop in no time at all. Really, you've done superbly well for color with a drum in the air! I've no idea whether temp fluctuations could have caused this. However, can this be rolled by hand in a bath on a set of passive rollers?

Asher

Asher

I am sure it could be rolled by hand but I like the bessler motor base to eliminate yet another variable

My main goal is the make c41 contact printing easier so issue such as this need to get figured out!

tgtaylor
6-Jun-2011, 09:06
For one thing the processing temperature is way off the mark.

Thomas

hka
6-Jun-2011, 09:21
Do I understand you well? Do you have a 8*10" sheet developed in 2830 a tank?
In these tanks are ribs which potentially places additional agitation that can lead to development problems. I don't know if this is one of them.
I see also water or developer strikes a " below the top from right to left. It could be that the sheet was not immersed immediately at that corner or the tank was not perfectly dry. Presoak helps to avoid these things.

domaz
6-Jun-2011, 10:00
Between processing temperature being too high and using a 2830 tank- I think you are going to have issues. The 2830 tank works but it's a hack at best- it probably isn't going to be ideal for an exacting process like color. Even in B&W you can get streaks using them. However, people have had success using the print drum tanks with film development by making a simple "film sheath" here:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/porte-film-jobo.html

In french but you can look at the pictures or Google translate it easily enough.

atlcruiser
6-Jun-2011, 12:27
For one thing the processing temperature is way off the mark.

Thomas

Alright...tetinal kit suggested 104' where should it be?


Do I understand you well? Do you have a 8*10" sheet developed in 2830 a tank?
In these tanks are ribs which potentially places additional agitation that can lead to development problems. I don't know if this is one of them.
I see also water or developer strikes a " below the top from right to left. It could be that the sheet was not immersed immediately at that corner or the tank was not perfectly dry. Presoak helps to avoid these things.

Presoak has been a PITA wih all sorts of issues. I can understand your comment about the tank not being fully dry....it very well might not have been. I "thought" this was the correct tank to use and it does have the ribs


Between processing temperature being too high and using a 2830 tank- I think you are going to have issues. The 2830 tank works but it's a hack at best- it probably isn't going to be ideal for an exacting process like color. Even in B&W you can get streaks using them. However, people have had success using the print drum tanks with film development by making a simple "film sheath" here:
http://www.galerie-photo.com/porte-film-jobo.html

In french but you can look at the pictures or Google translate it easily enough.

Which tank should I use? I honestly thought this was the correct tank for 810. I bet i have developed 40+ B+W and 20+ c41/e6. I have had issues with both the C41 and the E6 and I would love to blame the tank.


Thanks for the info.... give me a tank and a temp :)


david

atlcruiser
6-Jun-2011, 12:34
Domaz....cool link. My guess here is that the ribs cause some issue with the circulation of the developer.

atlcruiser
6-Jun-2011, 12:40
Googled and answered my own temp question. I will dbl check the instructions but I am 99% sure it said 104'/40'C. Looks like 100'/38'C is correct.

tgtaylor
6-Jun-2011, 14:50
Googled and answered my own temp question. I will dbl check the instructions but I am 99% sure it said 104'/40'C. Looks like 100'/38'C is correct.

100.4F

Thomas

Sirius Glass
6-Jun-2011, 15:44
100.4F

Thomas

100.4F = 38C

Steve

hka
9-Jun-2011, 03:23
The best tanks for that will be the Expert drums. Known as #3005.

atlcruiser
9-Jun-2011, 08:19
I have my eye out for a 3005 drum but i am not sure i am expert enough to pay $300+ for one!

Sirius Glass
9-Jun-2011, 10:47
I have my eye out for a 3005 drum but i am not sure i am expert enough to pay $300+ for one!

I paid full fare for a 3010 drum. It was worth it. It works and I do not worry about possible cracks, leaks or prior user abuse. Just amortize it over all the sheets of film that you develop and the cost is not so high.

Steve

domaz
9-Jun-2011, 11:15
100.4F

Thomas

Actually according to the Kodak Z-131 (http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/acrobat/en/service/Zmanuals/z131_03.pdf) it's 100.0+-0.25 for the first developer. All other steps are fine with 75 to 100 degrees. So you only really need to worry about the first developer temp- but it's critical.

atlcruiser
9-Jun-2011, 13:42
I paid full fare for a 3010 drum. It was worth it. It works and I do not worry about possible cracks, leaks or prior user abuse. Just amortize it over all the sheets of film that you develop and the cost is not so high.

Steve

I was making a joke and i do think it is worth every cent. I just need to save some cash and make it happen. At +/- $10 per sheet of c41/e6 film $300ish is a sound investment.

If anyone has one FS let me know

Jan Normandale
9-Jun-2011, 23:31
looking at the location of the discoloration I'm wondering how you introduced the color developer and the blix to the Jobo tank? The issue looks more process sourced than from a chemical origin or base motor sourced problem. Your temps were off somewhat but if it was only temps then the entire C41 neg would be off uniformly

Perhaps a check of your process for introducing the chemicals to the tank?

atlcruiser
16-Jun-2011, 07:03
Thanks Jan, I think you are onto the issue. I was using the cup lid on the unicolor base. I poured the chemicals into the cup then quickly set the tank onto the roller base that was moving. There was enough time for the chemical to contact the paper in one area then the rotation caught up with the chemical and the rest was evenly developed.

I now have the cog lid to fit the inner pole so I can use this tank on the jobo lift. I will tyr the new technique this weekend and ses how it does. I think the correct temp and correct filling method shoudl fix the issue.

TenOx
17-Jun-2011, 11:20
the color cast on the upper RHS of the photo. This seems to go all the way into the rebate with the rebate being a deep magenta then fading into black. The area affected was at the top of the tank.
It looks like a light leak since the coloration crosses to the film's edge. Otherwise it has to be some factor of uneven development. /..