Kodak Master 8x10(KMV) vs Calumet C-1

[Daniel Stone]

hey guys,

I've been pondering this for a few weeks now. I know of someone locally who is selling a C-1(black aluminum version) for a good price($350), however, since I already own a KMV, I'm kind of waffling....

Any pro's, cons of each? I'm starting to use longer lenses more and more, so the added 4-5" of bellows on the C1 could be useful down the road. My KMV tops out at around 30". I might get a 35" RDA or something like that when finances allow it. 8x10 film needs long lenses!

I have a sturdy series-5 gitzo aluminum "mother of a tripod" with a big Gitzo pan/tilt head, so having a good tripod and head isn't a worry.

What I DO remember about having played around with a C1 before was that the focusing was silky smooth, not so loose as on the KMV. Not that the KMV is bad, but I like strong tools, and sometimes the KMV isn't all there. I didn't get that "feeling" with the C1, it felt like a rock! And with the cost of 8x10 film, I don't want to waste any of it due to focus slop :eek:.

thoughts and suggestions are much appreciated

-Dan

[John Kasaian]

KMV---more portable than a C-1
C-1---longer bellows and more movements than the KMV
Solution---own both! ;)

[Louis Pacilla]

KMV---more portable than a C-1
C-1---longer bellows and more movements than the KMV
Solution---own both! ;)

I agree w/ John

[Daniel Stone]

well, finances(right now) are the main motivator, sell the KMV after getting the C1, or sell off some other stuff, and pay for the C1...

decisions decisions, you guys are a BAAAAAD influence :D

-Dan

[arthur berger]

Dan: Dont do it! Stick to the one camera. Take it from someone who has tried them all and returned to my first love (the Deardorff) .
Regards
Arthur

[Ben Calwell]

My experience with the C-1 is that it is one HEAVY camera. I'm much happier with my lighter, wooden 2D. But if the weight is of no concern to you, get the C-1.

[Heespharm]

Kmv for sure... Unless u really need extreme movements for architecture or have a collection of longer lenses that ur kmv can't support (which I don't know why you'd have lenses you can't use)

In the end I think you would need more portability over movements

[TheDeardorffGuy]

As a repairman I've rebellowed and repaired nearly every view camera made. Is yours a Kodak Master Camera folding field camera? Or is it a Master View Monorail Camera? Master camera link: www.butkus.org/chinon/kodak/kodak_master_camera/kodak_master_camera.htm
Master View Link:
http://www.bnphoto.org/bnphoto/LFN/ViewNeedsEval1fMono.htm

If you have a Master camera I find them unable to balance nicely without a strut from the tripod leg to the front extension. This minimizes vibration. A year ago I was sent a C1 for reassembly. With the right grease it was silky smooth. I really agree with Arthur Berger but if you are testing the waters find a camera that is an extension of your hands without wandering around the camera figuring out where things are.

[speedfreak]

I'm sure it is the kmv folding camera and I know he's worked with it quite a bit. Pretty sure it went to Iceland too.
I would try to spend time with the C-1 without selling the KMV, if possible. Something about certain cameras can annoy some people and be no thought at all for others. For me, a camera that locks down solid and operates smoothly is paramount. I just hiked 7 miles with a technikardan kit weighing quite a bit more than most 4x5 kits. I'd do it again in a heartbeat due to the joys of working with an awesome camera. For $350 you could probably buy it, use it for a month and sell it if it proved to be less than favorable compared to the KMV. Go for it!

[Frank Petronio]

I've never owned a KMV but played with one and liked it a lot, I'd consider it competitive with Canhams, Ebonies, nicer, newer cameras likes that. I have owned a C-1, with a rotting bellows, and made good pictures with it -- you'll need that #5 Gitzo though, it is a beast. If you want to use heavy long lenses it sounds great but it's kind of like comparing a truck to a sports sedan, 1950s style.

[eddie]

If u want to use a 35 inch rd artar u better get another camera all together!

C1 is too heavy to move around. kmv takes funny expensive lens boards and is fairly heavy.

I would not own either.

[Daniel Stone]

Hey Guys,

thanks for all the help on this issue :).

Speedfreak: YES. I went to Iceland this past summer. Helped me attain some beautiful negatives(but that's more the part of the lens used than the camera, as we all know). I purchased it at the recommendation of M+P, they use the KMV for their 8x10 work. It works for THEM, and it "works" for me.

IDK, I think I'd still like to TRY the C-1 if possible. And at the pricepoint of $350, its not too bad of a deal, and could be re-sold if I can't jive with it.

-Dan

[Daniel Stone]

eddie,

yes, the KMV DOES take funny lensboards unfortunately. My workaround on that one was to buy a Sinar-->Technika adapter, and bolt it to a KMV board(M+P, newer style one, so beefier).

works fine for me, now I have $15 lensboards instead of $125 ones :).

I'd do the same for the C1. I'd make a 6x6-->Toyo LB(110X110) reducing lensboard adapter(+ some boards). Just would need to mill it out from some scrap aluminum. Easy saturday project.

so there's workarounds to this issue :). Also, the light trap design on the C1 boards is just a doudle step anyhow, easily milled once dimensions and tolerances are set.

-Dan

[Lynn Jones]

I'll add a bit to it, Dan,

I was with Calumet when the 4x5 monorail camera was completely re-tooled as the great camera that it was. Kodak offered us the 8x10 Master View for no additional cost when we bought the 4x5 Kodak Master View, but we didn't like it for weight and other reasons. We did, however agree to make the 8x10 lens boards for Kodak (finally stopped in the early 70's because of lack of market). The original Calumet C1 (turquoise color) was made of magnesium at about 13 lbs (the Deardorff was a bit over 11 lbs). When new ownership came into being a decision was made to change the camera to aluminum now it was a bit over 17lbs and pained black (bad move unless you love HEAT. I was one of the 4 people who created the C1 camera and the 120/220 roll holder, Bil Ryan and I created 220 roll film at the same time, and I created the Calumet Color Analyzer, among other things.

All of the C1 cameras use lensboards which are identical to the Deardorff, Jack actually gave us the precise specs for that.

Lynn

[Alan Gales]

I don't know if you use wide angle lenses. The C1 has rear focussing with the front standard staying where it's at. With the bellows compressed you have to reach over to focus with a loupe. That may be a concern.

[Daniel Stone]

Hi Lynn,

thanks for the history on the camera! I've had some problem with the front of the KMV "swaying in the breeze", especially when I have longer(and heavier) lenses mounted.

to be quite honest, I've looked at the C1 primarily due to Christopher Burkett. I love his work, and I know he uses a C1, I guess its good enough(and solid enough too with that 800mm tele-xenar) to not sway around when he's shooting.

and yes, I locked my KMV up tight!

most of the time when I'm shooting its overcast, since I'm working more with transparency film these days. So the "heat" doesn't really bother me, I could just toss the darkcloth over the camera to keep the heat off(silver sided Harrison)

Alan: I HAVE a 210mm Graphic Kowa(currently for sale, but if it doesn't sell in the next week I'll keep it), and that's probably the shortest I'll go on 8x10 lenses. I've been considering selling my 4x5 lenses(that only work for 4x5, I'd be using the 4x5 back for the 8x10 if needing more "reach" than my lenses allow).

what do you mean by "reach around" though? My KMV has rear-only focusing, which I prefer really over front-focus cameras.

-Dan

[Michael Kadillak]

Years ago I listened to the general consensus on the Calumet C1 being an overweight bag of crap and avoided it. My first camera was a mint Kodak Master 8x10 and while it was a nice camera to work with there were some features that caused me to sell it and move on. Longer focal length lenses seemed to be more in favor with me and having a camera that only went forward from a fixed tripod position cause me to be concerned about the stresses placed on the tripod mount. I was also concerned about dropping it or damaging the wrinkle finish from which no repair would be possible.

The better more improved Kodak Master View IMHO is the Toyo 810M. Folds down and opens the same but the Toyo has a geared rear double knob drive backwards that more effectively balances the load over the tripod head. Plus the Toyo has a full compliment of service through Mamyia and is a current production model. I find it a marvelous camera to work with since it can be quickly set up and making images in minutes with a quick release plate.

I absolutely LOVE the Calumet. I found a black C1 camera in mint condition and decided to give it a chance and it is a marvelous camera to make images with. I continue to hear about its deficiencies and chuckle about what people complain about. They say it is heavy. I say it is very STABLE when I make photographs with it. I put it on a Bogen 475 with a quick release plate on a 310 head and it is not a problem. It is not the best with lenses shorter than 14" but so what. It rocks with 19, 24 and 30" lenses as the tripod position can be adjusted to center the load. This is a big deal when the lenses are heavier. It also has a great bail back and luminous ground glass and it locks down very solidly. It seems that everyone wants an 8x10 that is as light as a feather and place this as the first priority. I don't get it myself but I haul around cameras much heavier than the C1. Some time in the gym is all you need.

Brett Weston hauled a C1 all over the place and made some pretty darn good images with it. Enought said.....

[D. Bryant]

Years ago I listened to the general consensus on the Calumet C1 being an overweight bag of crap and avoided it. My first camera was a mint Kodak Master 8x10 and while it was a nice camera to work with there were some features that caused me to sell it and move on. Longer focal length lenses seemed to be more in favor with me and having a camera that only went forward from a fixed tripod position cause me to be concerned about the stresses placed on the tripod mount. I was also concerned about dropping it or damaging the wrinkle finish from which no repair would be possible.

The better more improved Kodak Master View IMHO is the Toyo 810M. Folds down and opens the same but the Toyo has a geared rear double knob drive backwards that more effectively balances the load over the tripod head. Plus the Toyo has a full compliment of service through Mamyia and is a current production model. I find it a marvelous camera to work with since it can be quickly set up and making images in minutes with a quick release plate.

I absolutely LOVE the Calumet. I found a black C1 camera in mint condition and decided to give it a chance and it is a marvelous camera to make images with. I continue to hear about its deficiencies and chuckle about what people complain about. They say it is heavy. I say it is very STABLE when I make photographs with it. I put it on a Bogen 475 with a quick release plate on a 310 head and it is not a problem. It is not the best with lenses shorter than 14" but so what. It rocks with 19, 24 and 30" lenses as the tripod position can be adjusted to center the load. This is a big deal when the lenses are heavier. It also has a great bail back and luminous ground glass and it locks down very solidly. It seems that everyone wants an 8x10 that is as light as a feather and place this as the first priority. I don't get it myself but I haul around cameras much heavier than the C1. Some time in the gym is all you need.

Brett Weston hauled a C1 all over the place and made some pretty darn good images with it. Enought said.....

I've made some good images with the C1 but in IMO the the KMV is a much friendlier camera. Having the front standard fixed is a real downer and it all works to make wide angle photography nothing short of frustrating.

In short I think the C1, green or black, is a monster unless one works with very long FLs. So what if Brett Weston used it, his choices were much more limited in his day. I'd be willing to bet if he were around today that he wouldn't choose the C1.

Don Bryant

[Alan Gales]

Hello Daniel,

When you focus a wide angle lens on a C1 due to the front standard not moving, the rear standard ends up towards the front standard with the bellows compressed. You still have the bed of the camera where you started so you have to lean your body over the bed to focus when using a loupe. You can compensate for this by having your tripod a little lower to make it easier. If you are tall it may not be a concern. I just wanted to make you aware.

Alan

[Michael Kadillak]

I've made some good images with the C1 but in IMO the the KMV is a much friendlier camera. Having the front standard fixed is a real downer and it all works to make wide angle photography nothing short of frustrating.

In short I think the C1, green or black, is a monster unless one works with very long FLs. So what if Brett Weston used it, his choices were much more limited in his day. I'd be willing to bet if he were around today that he wouldn't choose the C1.

Don Bryant

At the price that C1's go for who cares if it is used singularly with longer focal length lenses. My Toyo 810 is my quick shoot camera with short and medium lenses and my Canham wooden 8x10 is my put in the backpack and hike camera. I standardized on 6 1/8" Toyo lens boards so I have options. And I like options since I do not find one camera can universally get it ALL done.

Would Brett Weston have chosen a different camera? We simply do not know. Surely Christopher Burkette has many choices at his disposal and continues to use the C1. It is likely that he uses longer lenses as well.

[Daniel Stone]

thanks Alan,

now I think I get it. Being 6'5 helps sometimes, others(like when trying to buy jeans that are long enough), its the bane of my existence ;).

Michael,

thanks for your insight, its much appreciated. I had/have some reservations about the mounting of the KMV, and the amount of stress on that tiny 1/4-20 tripod mount screw. Michael Smith uses a 1/4-20 on his deardorff 12x20(8x20 back), so I guess it could work. I'd feel safer though with a 3/8 screw, IMO.<edit(addition)> Burkett seems to use that 800mm tele-xenar pretty regularly, at least with the pictures on his website! He also mentioned the use of a 47" lens(I'm assuming a RDA) on one of his images description. He talked about having to use supplementary bellows on the front with another tripod. IDK how he did that?

-Dan

[Alan Gales]

[QUOTE=DanielStone;733662]thanks Alan,

now I think I get it. Being 6'5 helps sometimes, others(like when trying to buy jeans that are long enough), its the bane of my existence ;).



Dan,

I am 5'8. I used to be 5'8 1/2 before my back fusion. So we have a bit different perspective! :)

Alan

[Michael Kadillak]

thanks Alan,

now I think I get it. Being 6'5 helps sometimes, others(like when trying to buy jeans that are long enough), its the bane of my existence ;).

Michael,

thanks for your insight, its much appreciated. I had/have some reservations about the mounting of the KMV, and the amount of stress on that tiny 1/4-20 tripod mount screw. Michael Smith uses a 1/4-20 on his deardorff 12x20(8x20 back), so I guess it could work. I'd feel safer though with a 3/8 screw, IMO.<edit(addition)> Burkett seems to use that 800mm tele-xenar pretty regularly, at least with the pictures on his website! He also mentioned the use of a 47" lens(I'm assuming a RDA) on one of his images description. He talked about having to use supplementary bellows on the front with another tripod. IDK how he did that?

-Dan

Completely agree about the tripod mount screw. When I got my Fulmer and Schwing 12x20 I sent it off to Richard Ritter for a cherry wood support plate in the base of the camera with a 3/8" receiver screw included. Technically it may not be absolutely "necessary" but it sure makes me feel good having some extra strength between the camera in its original condition and its inherent stress limitations. Just my luck I would pop that sucker out at the most inopportune time and then I would be wishing I took care of it from the get go.

Christopher at times takes long exposures and while I ahve not spoken to him personally, I would bet that the stability that comes with the C1 is the unspoken compromise of a heavier camera that keeps him using this piece of equipment.

Lynn did a very good job in the design phase when they put the C1 into production.

[D. Bryant]

At the price that C1's go for who cares if it is used singularly with longer focal length lenses. My Toyo 810 is my quick shoot camera with short and medium lenses and my Canham wooden 8x10 is my put in the backpack and hike camera. I standardized on 6 1/8" Toyo lens boards so I have options. And I like options since I do not find one camera can universally get it ALL done.

Would Brett Weston have chosen a different camera? We simply do not know. Surely Christopher Burkette has many choices at his disposal and continues to use the C1. It is likely that he uses longer lenses as well.

So what if you had to choose one 8x10 camera? For me it wouldn't be the C1, sort of a moot point since I don't shoot 8x10 any longer. A KMV might be the one if I did. I've used the camera and I like it. It's not perfect and I might also lean toward a Chamonix mainly because the Phillips models are very hard to get and Deardorfs are too heavy.

I used an ancinet Folmer Schwing for a long time that had to have rubber bands wrapped around the back to hold the film holder tight but I loved that wooden camera. It was realitively light and did most things I needed an 8x10 to do which was to expose 8x10 film quickly and easily. It was more or less a P&S 8x10.

Burkett has probably gotten used to the limitations of the camera which is easier if it's used for 8x10 only with long lenses. When he began LF, there were fewer 8x1os to pick from and the C1 was a okay alternative that was inexpensive and relatively easy to source. I've owned 3 C1s over the years and that was enough for me. I'm sure Brett would not use the C1 today in fact I'm betting he would be shooting MF digital.:p

In it's day the C1 was a break through camera but today it's role is primarily as an inexpensive starter camera or an old workhorse that can be converted to wet plate without breaking the bank for a camera.

FWIW, I always mounted a thin aluminum plate on the mounting frame and to sturdy up the tripod mount. I can't see why one would want to use a piece of wood but to each their own.

[Daniel Stone]

well guys,

I should now have a black C1 with 8x10 and 4x5 backs(plus a lensboard or two) coming in the mail in the next 10 days or so. Now its time for some comparisons! My longest lens right now is a 450M Nikkor, currently my Fujinon-C 600mm piggybank isn't full enough yet to put up a WTB ad :). And the 800 tele-xenar is still a LOOOOOONG ways off! So the LONG lens tests will have to wait a bit longer. Unfortunately... Anyone have one(of the 600 or 800 lenses aforementioned) I could rent for a week or two, or better yet, borrow? I'll happily cover shipping both ways, fully insured of course :).

I'll post a small review on my thoughts once I've used each camera side by side for a few times too, if anyone is interested?

-Dan

[Michael Kadillak]

well guys,

I should now have a black C1 with 8x10 and 4x5 backs(plus a lensboard or two) coming in the mail in the next 10 days or so. Now its time for some comparisons! My longest lens right now is a 450M Nikkor, currently my Fujinon-C 600mm piggybank isn't full enough yet to put up a WTB ad :). And the 800 tele-xenar is still a LOOOOOONG ways off! So the LONG lens tests will have to wait a bit longer. Unfortunately... Anyone have one(of the 600 or 800 lenses aforementioned) I could rent for a week or two, or better yet, borrow? I'll happily cover shipping both ways, fully insured of course :).

I'll post a small review on my thoughts once I've used each camera side by side for a few times too, if anyone is interested?

-Dan

Enjoy.

A while back there were some Nikkor 600mm f9 lenses that were offered in barrel new in the box for about $300 delivered. I picked up one and put a Packard over the barrel. Maybe you can shake one of these out of the bushes to try in your neck of the woods. Let us know what you think after you have had a chance to use it. I put a quick release plate on mine and it sets up fairly quickly. Be careful to keep your eyes on the front lock down screws on the bottom.

[D. Bryant]

well guys,

I should now have a black C1 with 8x10 and 4x5 backs(plus a lensboard or two) coming in the mail in the next 10 days or so. Now its time for some comparisons! My longest lens right now is a 450M Nikkor, currently my Fujinon-C 600mm piggybank isn't full enough yet to put up a WTB ad :). And the 800 tele-xenar is still a LOOOOOONG ways off! So the LONG lens tests will have to wait a bit longer. Unfortunately... Anyone have one(of the 600 or 800 lenses aforementioned) I could rent for a week or two, or better yet, borrow? I'll happily cover shipping both ways, fully insured of course :).

I'll post a small review on my thoughts once I've used each camera side by side for a few times too, if anyone is interested?

-Dan

Be sure to read the warning label about lifting with your knees not your back and always wear an industry approved back support and maintain your appropriate body weight to prevent back injury when lift your tripod and camera to move it and inch or so to get the correct composition. :)

Don

[Merg Ross]

I have a C-1 and also an Agfa woodie. They both see use and have their strong points. The C-1 is very sturdy and excellent for long lenses. It weighs more than the Agfa, but I have yet to find a single camera to be perfect for all conditions. I think you will find the same.

When Brett Weston received his C-1 from Calumet in the early 1960's, we took it out to Point Lobos for a morning of shooting. As I recall, Calumet sent along a couple of Caltar lenses for him to test. We both used the camera and I still print negatives made that morning. Brett really liked the C-1 and used it for many years. As he got older he relied more on roll film cameras, the SL-66 being his favorite. His last 8x10 camera was a Nagaoka.

[Lynn Jones]

To Michaer K,

Brett Weston and I were friends for many years, I gave him the the 6th C1 made, together with a full set of Caltar Lenses (which he loved and sent me several prints made with those lenses).

Regarding short focal length lenses, there was a 6x6 recessed board with the other end as a 4x4. You could combine that with the cc428 super-recessed board and bring a focus at infinity with a 47mm, easilywith a 65mm.

Lynn

[Daniel Stone]

Be sure to read the warning label about lifting with your knees not your back and always wear an industry approved back support and maintain your appropriate body weight to prevent back injury when lift your tripod and camera to move it and inch or so to get the correct composition. :)

Don


maybe I should get one of these stickers to put on the camera :)

http://www.compliancesigns.com/media/ANSI/ASE-4270_300.gif


-Dan

[Michael Jones]

maybe I should get one of these stickers to put on the camera :)

http://www.compliancesigns.com/media/ANSI/ASE-4270_300.gif


-Dan

Perfect!

Mike

[Kerik Kouklis]

I am a big fan of the KMV. No need for the expensive "funny" lensboards. I've made many boards from plain, flat aluminum. On the back, I attach strips of adhesive velcro (the fuzzy side) that correspond to the embossed part of the front standard. Perfect light-tight seal for all of maybe five bucks.

For the last seven years I've mainly used this camera for wet plate collodion. I routinely use old brass lenses racked out (including a 15" THC knuckler that weights a TON). To help steady the front of the camera I attach a Bogen long lens support to one leg of the tripod and to the bottom of the front standard that happens to have a drilled/tapped 1/4-20 hole perfect for the purpose.

It's not a lightweight camera, but not a beast either. I don't backpack with the thing, so weight isn't a major issue.

[Michael Kadillak]

To Michaer K,

Brett Weston and I were friends for many years, I gave him the the 6th C1 made, together with a full set of Caltar Lenses (which he loved and sent me several prints made with those lenses).

Regarding short focal length lenses, there was a 6x6 recessed board with the other end as a 4x4. You could combine that with the cc428 super-recessed board and bring a focus at infinity with a 47mm, easilywith a 65mm.

Lynn

Thanks for sharing Lynn. How fortunate people like yourself and Merg were to had a relationship with Brett. There is a traveling exhibit of Brett's work soon to be in Colorado Springs that I cannot wait to take in.

I had no idea that option existed for shorter lenses. You designers had your bases covered. Bravo!

[Thebes]

Perhaps I'd feel differently about my magnesium C-1 if it were aluminum and a few pounds heavier. Its not that heavy of a camera. Its more bulky than heavy, which can make it a challenge to pack in the field. Mine fits into an old super trekker pack with three lenses, cloth, filters, hood, etc, but my holders have a separate laptop bag. I can carry the whole lot about a mile each way without hurting my fragile self.

The same kit as a dorf would weigh about the same, but I might loose the laptop bag and fit the holders in the pack. With a KMV it would be a few pounds lighter too, but it would have less bellows and I'd have had to custom make my shutter box for the barrel lenses, my C-1 took an old dorf's packard box with slight mods.

One problem with the C-1 is the strange baseplate which might require modification to play well with your tripod head. The other is the rear facing track in your gut. They're tough, sturdy and lots of movements, even if they aren't svelt, pretty or ergonomic.

[Lynn Jones]

By the way, Michael,

I named my youngest son after Brett W., as was Brett's nature he told me that it was crazy. However, from 1971 on until his death, he never talked to me without asking about my Brett.

Lynn

[Michael Kadillak]

By the way, Michael,

I named my youngest son after Brett W., as was Brett's nature he told me that it was crazy. However, from 1971 on until his death, he never talked to me without asking about my Brett.

Lynn

Interesting.

Our middle son has Weston for a middle name for a similar reason.

[Daniel Stone]

So first impressions:

I received the camera yesterday, nice seeing I had the "day off" to wait around for the box to show up ;). Well, 1st impression was "man, this thing looks complex!". Well, I found out it isn't, but would take some time to fold, unfold and pack quickly in the future. The bellows that came installed on this model seemed(to me) to be on extra-thick frames, about 3/8" thick :o. IDK if this was the original design, my KMV's frames are around 3/16" thick, max. It still folds up, but with LEATHER bellows instead of the nylon-type ones that I now have on my KMV(Western Bellows, Jim Ormond), they don't pack up as compactly as the leather ones. Not really any matter, but the chrome rods that go into the front standard take some pushing to go in just 1/2 way. I don't think it should be like this....

Anywho, on to the cream! The Calumet gridded g/g that came with the 8x10 back(in addition to the 4x5 rotating back) is nice and bright! The fit and finish of the bail back makes loading and unloading film holders very quick, and without much worry to jar the camera. Its now also reassuring to know that I can CENTER the weight of the camera over the tripod, with the sliding mount base. Very cool IMO. I went out with my Nikkor 450mm in the front yard to just look around with the camera, not that it'd be any different from my KMV, but in some ways, it was. Having GEARED rise(with positive locks too, so no having to lock it down and fear it slipping) is a nice treat, and separate knobs for tilt is great too. That was the thing that got me the most about my KMV, one knob controls the tension on both rise/fall and lens tilt. And usually the small screw mechanism wasn't enough for rought composition, just fine movements. No matter, different designs.

It takes me around 15s to get my KMV "ready" to shoot, not including selecting/mounting a lens, but just opening and locking it down. My best-timed attempt with the C-1 was 1:30. But this was just day 1, so I know it can only be faster from now on. Having only 1 lensboard for the C1 limited me somewhat, but I think I'll just mill it out to accept Technika boards, not that hard, and will allow me to swap out lenses(since they're on Technika boards anyhow) and use them between the KMV and my new C-1 while deciding on which to keep.

Focusing: MAN!!!!!!!! The silky smooth focusing on the C-1 is such a treat! My KMV will "jolt" on the focus rails if you try to turn the focus knob to quickly, or pull the rear standards back/forward by hand w/o the knob. The C-1? Nope, just silky-butter smooth!

Bellows: the leather ones on the C-1 are a little too tight IMO for getting the camera packed together the way it was designed too, maybe the bellows frames are just too thick(see above). My KMV folds together with the new(Western Bellows) bellows with no problem, and gets about 31" of stretch at maximum. The C-1? Just about 34". Not a whole lot of difference, I don't have a 30" lens YET, but I know that using a 30" or 35" Red Dot Artar(both on Ilex #5), the 35" on a 1.5" "tophat" lensboard on the Calumet C-1 will DEFINITELY be less stress on the front standard than that on the KMV, especially since the majority of the weight is CENTERED on the C-1, where as it isn't on the KMV.

Another week or two of trials, and I'll be able to write more in depth.

but for now, I think that the C-1 is looking REALLY good!

-Dan

[Daniel Stone]

does anyone know if the C1's rear "rail" can be permanently disconnected from the front part? The small metal clips on the side can really be a PITA when trying to set up quickly, and since I like being able to set up quickly, well, you get my drift...

any ideas

or am I wrong, will this compromise stability, only using the screw to hold the rear section to the front part?

-Dan

[Jon Shiu]

does anyone know if the C1's rear "rail" can be permanently disconnected from the front part? The small metal clips on the side can really be a PITA when trying to set up quickly, and since I like being able to set up quickly, well, you get my drift...

any ideas

or am I wrong, will this compromise stability, only using the screw to hold the rear section to the front part?

-Dan

You can just take those thin clips on the side off. The ones on mine were broken when I got them. To hold the rail folded up when in closed position, I just just used a velcro strap from the rail to the handle.

Jon

[D. Bryant]

does anyone know if the C1's rear "rail" can be permanently disconnected from the front part? The small metal clips on the side can really be a PITA when trying to set up quickly, and since I like being able to set up quickly, well, you get my drift...

any ideas

or am I wrong, will this compromise stability, only using the screw to hold the rear section to the front part?

-Dan

Try a DeWalt Saws-All. That will do the trick! But yes it can be dis-assembled.

[Merg Ross]

or am I wrong, will this compromise stability, only using the screw to hold the rear section to the front part?

-Dan

No!

[Daniel Stone]

thanks guys(so Merg, only using the screw WILL NOT compromise stability,or lead to more problems down the line?). I'm really starting to latch on to the C-1, its heavy yes, but stable? Its the most stable camera I've shot with so far. Great camera for a great price!

-Dan

[Merg Ross]

thanks guys(so Merg, only using the screw WILL NOT compromise stability,or lead to more problems down the line?). I'm really starting to latch on to the C-1, its heavy yes, but stable? Its the most stable camera I've shot with so far. Great camera for a great price!

-Dan

Dan, you should be fine without the clips. I removed them from mine; in fact one was broken and useless. With short lenses, the sliding rail block will give added support.

Glad you gave the C-1 a try. I love the smooth focus aspect and bail back. I still own three Calumet cameras and they have all served me well. The only downside is that they get heavier as one gets older; you don't have to worry about that (yet)!

Have fun!

[Daniel Stone]

thanks Merg,

I was up in the hills yesterday photographing the wildflowers that have been in full bloom the past few weeks, and it sure was nice having the SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH focus, it makes things SOOOOO much easier!

I'm now on the lookout for a tripod w/ a fluid head(originally intended for video work), a buddy uses one, and its much more stable(even with a q/r plate on the camera) than my gitzo pan/tilt head, even though its the BIG studex 4"x6" one...

more saving I guess ;).

the bail back(on the 4x5 and 8x10 backs) sure makes things easy too!

-Dan

[Michael Kadillak]

thanks Merg,

I was up in the hills yesterday photographing the wildflowers that have been in full bloom the past few weeks, and it sure was nice having the SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH focus, it makes things SOOOOO much easier!

I'm now on the lookout for a tripod w/ a fluid head(originally intended for video work), a buddy uses one, and its much more stable(even with a q/r plate on the camera) than my gitzo pan/tilt head, even though its the BIG studex 4"x6" one...

more saving I guess ;).

the bail back(on the 4x5 and 8x10 backs) sure makes things easy too!

-Dan

Glad that the C! is working out so well for you. A fluid head should really fill out the package nicely.

[Daniel Stone]

well it seems I was able to snag a fluid head for a "good price" :). I've been trying to research the company, but nothing is coming up. I've had a few calls into places around town here in LA, but no one knows the name ITE

here's the auction w/ some pictures

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180682041119&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

-Dan