Advice re: Chance to buy a mint Nikkor 300-M f9 for $450

[akfreak]

I have seen several listings for this lens, I have been on the hunt for a 300mm or so lens for portrait work, this lens has kind of fallen into my lap. I have read a little bout this lens and I have a few questions, First is this lens considered an APO lens? Next is there an APO and Non APO lens?

This lens is perfect in every way. They say at f22 is covers 8x10 and can close down to f128 but slips past to f256.

For me the Tessar design is perfect, I love sharp, I also plan to do landscapes, I thnk this may be it. Any thoughts on this specific lens.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2278/5757988782_7170932067_b.jpg

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5188/5757444157_7cf9840053_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3593/5757987196_c26c582b28_b.jpg

Thanks for your time Akf

[mdm]

Its a bargain. Can't go wrong. If that board belongs to the camera I think it does I will take it off you for a reasonable price. PM me its dimensions if you are interested.

[Gem Singer]

The lens appears to have a serial number of 800*** and is in excellent condition.

$450 is a very fair asking price. Did you actually purchase the lens?

The mahogany lens board appears to be for a Wisner or Zone VI 4x5 camera.

This lens is not APO. Nikon mounted their APO lenses in barrels for the graphic arts industry.

[jeroldharter]

That is a good price for a good lens. I would not hesitate if you need a 300.

It will cover 8x10 but not with a lot of movement. I prefer a 305 G-Claron for 8x10. The Nikkor 300 M is multicoated. It accepts relatively small filters, 58mm I think. I use a step up ring so that my field kit is standardized to 67mm filters.

[Gem Singer]

The Nikkor 300M takes 52mm screw-in filters.

[lbenac]

It is a really good price, I know I just bought one...

[Darin Boville]

That's a great price for a great lens--buy it!

--Darin

[akfreak]

The seller is jacking me around, he had an offer for $475 so he now wants to see if I will pay $500, what Joke. The idiot thinks the M is a W because he has a 135-w, that is good for me that he is a moron but he has really pissed me off now.

He is making a auction via PM on a forum that I will leave nameless. I asked him if I did give him $500 was he going to go back the the other guy and ask for $525. He is a real douche! As much as I want this lens, and it appears to be a good price. I wont put up with crap like that!

[Gem Singer]

That's why I asked in post #3 whether or not you had already purchased the lens.

If an offer is too good to be true, it's probably false.

$500 is still a good price for that particular lens if it includes shipping and lens board.

[Darin Boville]

As much as I want this lens, and it appears to be a good price. I wont put up with crap like that!

If you go a little higher you might see something on the buy/sell board of this site....ahem :)

--Darin

[eddie]

IMO there are way better options for portrait photography for the same or less money. I prefer a wider aperture than f9. Not the best for portraits IMO.

The 300 and sometimes the 360 imagin come in shutters and are great portrait lenses. Stopped down they will also shoot nice landscape shots. Another over looked lens is the ilex. It is 375mm if my memory is right.

Eddie

[akfreak]

After a lengthy email and a followed phone call, he saw my perspective and did the right thing, he sold me the lens for the original price.

I explained how he could try and squeeze a few extra bucks from a buyer, however reputation is worth more than a few bucks. This world we play in is smaller than you think and one does not want to be shut out or looked upon negatively as a Shyster, Hustler, Conman, Scalawag or a new friends of mines favorite term for a person who uses opportunism and exploitation to make a buck , a "Carpet Bagger!"

He agreed and sent me a request for the $450 and $11.00 shipping. The deal is payment pending shipment.

Also seeing Darin Boville's post, "Ahem" about the serial number, this lens has a serial number in the last batch so if that means much it all mine is in this range. Quote by Gem Singer, "Nikon/Nikkor lenses with serial numbers in the 800000's were the last batch of LF lenses that Nikon manufactured before they were discontinued."


Sorry Darin I would buy yours but I l already made a deal on this one, "ahem" LOL A future Classic is on the way.

At f9 for portrait work, I shoot strobes and have to stop down to f11 all the time. On White seamless DOF really isn't a big deal. Now outside portraits in natural light I may have to use some faster film, or use a strobe only time will tell.

I think this lens is perfect for my 4x5, it is lightweight, and will complement my 135-W nicely. Thanks for all who replied, I appreciate all of your time. AKf

[Darin Boville]

>>Sorry Darin I would buy yours but I l already made a deal on this one, "ahem"<<

Perhaps you need two of them? Think--what would you do if you were in the middle of a 15-day hike and your first one broke? Think how cool you would look if you had one of these on a chain around your neck and used it as a loupe. Think of the possibilities of holding both up to your eyes like glasses and scaring small, disobedient children.

Think, man, think!

--Darin

[eddie]

At f9 for portrait work, I shoot strobes and have to stop down to f11 all the time. On White seamless DOF really isn't a big deal. AKf

Turn you strobes down.

DOF is not just about the back ground. I very rarely stop down past f8. YMMV

[akfreak]

What if you have to blow the background completely white and keep the model from getting completely wrapped in light. I am at f8 thru 11 all the time. Especially when the background lights have to be 1 1/2 to 2 stops brighter then the main. With a group I am at f16 sometimes, glad I have plenty of power, and lots of strobes! And yes my mileage does vary quite often, especially if I have my f1.2 glass on, I use a led flashlight as match as the main light and an iphone for the background using Google search, it gives nice separation LOL. My MMV, that is funny.

Eddie, Lenny Bruce has nothing on you, and you have all the good looks too. Howed ya like that parking garage portrait I took of you?

[John Kasaian]

IMHO a really great 8x10 lens for both landscape and portrait is a 250mm 10" WF Ektar. Opened up it gives skin a creamy look and stopped down it makes landscape details sparkle.

[akfreak]

IMHO a really great 8x10 lens for both landscape and portrait is a 250mm 10" WF Ektar. Opened up it gives skin a creamy look and stopped down it makes landscape details sparkle.

WOW That is a nice lens. I like that very well, it is priced right in there and is more versatile than the f9 for sure. Thanks for the advice. Will keep an eye out. Price range around $650ish? More and more I keep ending up at a Kodak lens when I see images I like. They really made some nice stuff.

[Joseph Dickerson]

Akfreak,

Not wanting to hijack the thread but, if you're setting your backgrounds lights 1 1/2-2 f/stops brighter than your subject, you're over exposing the background.

Are you reading the background itself or taking an incident reading of the background lights?

Many people think it's necessary to overexpose the background that much but an incident reading taken at the background should read about the same as one taken at the subject. Assuming a white background of course.

If you're using a reflected meter then you're right it should indicate 1 1/2 to 2 stops brighter than the subject.

If you over-light a white background you'll start to get flare and reflected white light on the edges of the subject. Many high key photos suffer from this common fault/mistake.

Sorry if this is all old news to you. Thought it might help.

JD

[akfreak]

I use a reflective reading. I set the main light first, and then I dial up the real lights until the blinkys confirm I am blowing the BG and floor 100% white. Most of the time it is 1 1/2 to 2 stops more than the main light when I want the BG and floor to snap 100% white. The BG lights are always flagged as to not cause flair in the lens.

Now the space, ceiling height, and how close the sidewalls all need to be considered because they can act as a reflector and change things, especially if the walls or some wired color like Green, Can we say green cast. I like tall ceilings and wide open spaces. Hard to find for me, I am always on the hunt.


I like to know where I am at so I use my Minolta IV F and a pocket wizard to trigger the packs. I always read where my lights are so I know what to do I want to make changes, I hate to guess. Maybe a background with a grey radial gradient, a low key shot with a gridded snoot aimed at the BG being the center of my subject. I have got to know where the lights are. I find the meter is the best way for me to NOT cuss so much. That trial and error stuff is for the birds, :D No Hijack thanks for taking time to respond. AKf