X-Ray Film Resource Page

[Ari]

Hi,
I've been reading a few different posts concerning X-ray film, scattered around the forum, and wanted to consolidate all the knowledge we have in one place.
Also, I'm looking for some answers to my new-to-X-ray questions.
I just bought some Fuji blue-sensitive film, and would like to know if HC-110 is a viable developer.
And I'm not sure if this film is double-coated emulsion or single.
I'll be processing tac-style in a Jobo drum.
I'm waiting on the 8x10 camera to arrive, so I can't shoot anything yet, but it would sure help to be a little prepared.
Thanks, and I hope we can put together a decent amount of information here for all the experimental cheapos like myself!

[Roger Thoms]

I'm pretty sure the film is double sided so taco/jobo is probably not a good idea. You must have found Gene McCluney's thread, wealth of info there. I just got my first box of x-ray film, so I'm brand new to this too. The film is cheap enough though that you can experiment, the 11x14 I bought was < .60usd/sheet delivered. I am planning on using mine in a panoramic pinhole camera which means that I have to cut it down, which from my understanding is a bad idea since tha film scratches easily. :eek: Right now I'm trying to find some 11x14 film boxes to put the film in, once I cut it down, but have had no luck. May have to make a box if no one responds to my WTB add The film is cheaper than RC paper so I figured it was worth trying.

Roger

[Lachlan 717]

Good idea for a thread.

Any chance you can add where you're buying this from?

Also, can anyone shed some light on whether X-Ray 7x17 film will work in a "regular" 7x17 holder? I've got a feeling that it is slightly different in size, but would love to get the lowdown from someone who's used it.

Thanks.

[Roger Thoms]

I bought mine from Z&Z Medical, CSX Online is another source.

Roger

[bobwysiwyg]

I've seen many threads re: x-ray film. Never tried it, but I wonder how long it will be before this too becomes hard to obtain? More and more facilities (both dental and medical) are shifting to the "other technology."

[Ari]

Good idea for a thread.

Any chance you can add where you're buying this from?

Thanks.

I bought it off eBay; $9.99 plus shipping.
Not a medical supplier per se, just a guy with lots of stuff to sell.

[Lachlan 717]

I've seen many threads re: x-ray film. Never tried it, but I wonder how long it will be before this too becomes hard to obtain? More and more facilities (both dental and medical) are shifting to the "other technology."

In my opinion, cost to upgrade technology will probably mean that smaller organisations will keep using film for many years to come.

[Jay DeFehr]

I'm using Kodak green X-Ray film, and developing in 510-Pyro. I bought my film from CSX-Online, and it's been working very well for my window light portraits. I'm processing 8x10 film in 8x10 trays, with a sheet of glass in the bottom. I transfer the film with the glass, from tray to tray. So far, no scratches. I estimate exposure at EI 100, but it's a very rough estimate.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Just got back from a week long photo shoot and exposed 30+ sheets of 8x10 and several were green x-ray film. I shot these @ 160. Now I normally shoot it at 80 but I feel it will be fine at 160. I develop in Pyrocat-HD 1:1: 100 for 5-6 minutes. Red light on the whole time. Also, I spoke to Freestyle one day about the x-ray film I was using and I left them some of my negatives and the prints made with them for their purchasing manager to look at. The people at the counter liked the fact that I was able to make some great images with the film and it was cheap.They told me that the can no longer get Lith film and maybe they could offer this as a replacement. They told me that they may get some and do some tests. I have to go there this week and I'll let everyone know what they say.Freestyle would have some buying power I would think.

[Jay DeFehr]

Jim,

Thanks for your tips in other threads. I think my exposures probably range fairly widely around EI 100, and so far, they are all printable. It would be great if Freestyle carried some X-ray film, and brought the price down even lower. I don't think X-Ray film is a very good replacement for lith film, but better than no replacement. I had planned to use Sweet 'N' Lo with my X-Ray film, but since I only have 510-Pyro on hand, I'm using it. My results with 510-Pyro look so normal, I wonder if S&L might be too low contrast for this film. Maybe not, and I'm sure I could get another stop of real speed with S&L, but I wonder about the gradation. With 510-Pyro, I think it will be easy to make negatives suitable for carbon printing. I guess I'll find out next month.

[Lachlan 717]

I was looking at Z&Z Medical's wbsite and noticed "Developer Clinic Pack".

Anyone tried using dedicated X-ray chemicals for developing photographic X-ray images?

[Jay DeFehr]

I was looking at Z&Z Medical's wbsite and noticed "Developer Clinic Pack".

Anyone tried using dedicated X-ray chemicals for developing photographic X-ray images?

I wondered about that, too, and X-Ray film processors might be a good way to avoid all the scratch-related issues.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jim,

Thanks for your tips in other threads. I think my exposures probably range fairly widely around EI 100, and so far, they are all printable. It would be great if Freestyle carried some X-ray film, and brought the price down even lower. I don't think X-Ray film is a very good replacement for lith film, but better than no replacement. I had planned to use Sweet 'N' Lo with my X-Ray film, but since I only have 510-Pyro on hand, I'm using it. My results with 510-Pyro look so normal, I wonder if S&L might be too low contrast for this film. Maybe not, and I'm sure I could get another stop of real speed with S&L, but I wonder about the gradation. With 510-Pyro, I think it will be easy to make negatives suitable for carbon printing. I guess I'll find out next month.

Jay, I've been getting great negatives for carbon using Pyrocat-HD. The great thing is that you develop and do everything in the red safe light. could not be easier. My 14x17 film came out perfect developed in a tray. No, with that said printing a 14x17 carbon transfer is a challenge but very nice when you see the results.
The great thing about this film is the high contrast aspect of it. Great for a carbon printer.I'm using it in 8x10, 11x14 and 14x17.

[Tri Tran]

I wondered about that, too, and X-Ray film processors might be a good way to avoid all the scratch-related issues.

Jay,
If you wish to have the unit. I do know a doctor has one like new for sale. It's good for 10x12 but I will double check. She is asking for $2500 retail is $4000 price range.

Jim,
I just finished loaded 30 sheets 8x10 Green X Ray for Wedding Portrait Session this coming up week end. I will likely shoot some 11x14 and 14x17 as well .

[John Jarosz]

Isn't some x-ray film single sided?

If you can develop under a red safelight I guess that means it's ortho film. Good for landscapes?

John

[Jim Fitzgerald]

John, all of the x-ray film that I have used has emulsion on both sides. This is not to say that there is not a single sided version as I think there is. The film is great for everything. I've done landscapes, abstracts, portraits etc. It is the etc.... where it works the best. Cheap, try it you may find you like what it does.

[Jay DeFehr]

Tri,

Thanks, but that's way too rich for my blood. I was thinking more along the lines of free. I think I might have even had one, at one time, but can't remember what happened to it.

Jim,

This film seems very capable of high Density Ranges, and I'm looking forward to making some carbon prints from my negatives.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Jay, I have a 2.38 DR negative in 14x17 that makes a nice print. So, yes it is very capable. In the next couple of days I'll be developing some of the x-ray film from my trip that I shot at 160 so I'll be sure to report.

[Jay DeFehr]

I'm looking forward to it, Jim. Lately I've been working very primitively, because I left most of my darkroom stuff in Idaho. In general, I just give the film as much exposure as I can, under the exposure conditions. I don't have a thermometer, and develop by inspection under a safelight. Not the best scenario for carbon printing, but I'm hoping I can hold my pigment content constant and control contrast with the dichromate to match the negative. I'm not primarily interested in high relief, but in the freedom to explore image color, and the long scale. I'll join a darkroom c0-op in Seattle next month, and hopefully bring much of my gear from Idaho, so I can take a more quantifiable tack.

[Tim k]

Great idea for a thread.

Something to include might be a "where to buy" thats not an offshore credit card harvesting operation.

None of the company names mean much to me, other than the couple of names that have already been mentioned.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Tri, let me know how the wedding shot goes. I know they will be happy.

BTW, I shot some green sensitive on my last trip @ 160 and the shadows are a bit weak. I'm thinking that 100 is the right speed. Just thought I'd pass that along.

[Tri Tran]

Will do Jim!
I will teach a workshop for Platinum/Carbon Print introduction and how to use and process the X ray film in Montreal ,Canada this summer. Does someone know is there any Canadian Xray film suppliers so my students can order ? Thanks.

[Ari]

For Canadian suppliers, you should Google "X-ray film Canada" to compare prices.
I found this in 3 seconds:
http://www.canadianxraysupplies.com/xray-film.php

But it would be worth searching further, as X-ray film prices in Canada are much more expensive than they are in the US.

So far, I've found blue-sensitive film by searching eBay, and paying much less, even including shipping.

[Vaughn]

I was looking at Z&Z Medical's wbsite and noticed "Developer Clinic Pack".

Anyone tried using dedicated X-ray chemicals for developing photographic X-ray images?

Probably not of much help, but my first x-ray films I exposed were processed by the techs at the hospital -- they came out well...perhaps a little more contrast than "normal" developers and time.

I cleared several unexposed sheets of x-ray film in standard paper-strength Kodak Rapid Fixer the other night. They cleared under 30 seconds -- I was surprised! I still fixed for another minute.

[Vaughn]

...
BTW, I shot some green sensitive on my last trip @ 160 and the shadows are a bit weak. I'm thinking that 100 is the right speed. Just thought I'd pass that along.

Might be reciprosity failure, too. What were your exposure times?

Vaughn

[Jay DeFehr]

I'm actively looking for an X-Ray film processor. I think a pretty good one (for film up to 14x17) could be had for around $500, used. If I can get the processor, I'm confident I could adapt or formulate a developer to give me the results I want.

[Scott --]

I'm actively looking for an X-Ray film processor. I think a pretty good one (for film up to 14x17) could be had for around $500, used. If I can get the processor, I'm confident I could adapt or formulate a developer to give me the results I want.

...and then we could all use "Jay's Mail Order Large Format X-Ray Film Processing Service"!

Serious question, though: How suitable/comparable to regular B&W film can this stuff be made to behave? I'm not interested in carbon printing (yet).

[Lachlan 717]

I bought mine from Z&Z Medical, CSX Online is another source.

Roger

Unfortunately, neither do international postage.

Any other thoughts/experiences?

[Jay DeFehr]

Scott,

it's a lot more similar to standard pictorial ortho film than ortho lith film is. I should say that my experience is limited to less than a dozen sheets, all exposed indoors by window light. I haven't run any sensitometric tests, and my methods have been decidedly primitive. That being said, I got an easy printing (grade 2 silver paper) negative on my very first try, with normal composition and dilution developer. In other words, X-ray film doesn't require a special developer, like ortho lith or document films do. I treated mine just as I would any ordinary ISO 100 film, with the exception of handling it under a safelight, and placing a sheet of glass in the bottom of my developing tray.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Might be reciprosity failure, too. What were your exposure times?

Vaughn

No reciprocity going on as I was shooting at 1/2 second and faster with my only shuttered lens, my 240 Fuji. Looking at the negatives it is developer that died on me. Still the other ones that are processed right could use a bit more exposure in the shadows. So this is why I'm thinking of 100.

Scott, I've printed in silver and carbon. The nice thing is that you can adjust developing for the process. I've shot about 80 sheets or so and the stuff is good for any process as far as I can tell. Now I will say that I normally only print carbon but or the occasion where I print on Azo I've been very happy with the results.

[John Jarosz]

I still can't get my hands around this. Could someone post a photograph of an outdoor sceene that has blue sky, green foliage (and if at all possible fleshtones) that was taken with green sensitive x-ray film?.

And from reading around on other threads, the x-ray film that seems to be single sided is mammography film.

Thanks

john

[Vaughn]

Not exactly what you asked for, but here is a scan of a carbon print (Dick's tissue) taken with blue-sensitive x-ray film and developed at the hospital on their machine/chemicals.

Exposed at 400 or 800 ASA -- can't remember.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Well, no flesh tones or sky but the tree is green. I have some from my trip to Oregon that I will print next week and scan. This is a carbon print of a green sensitive negative shot at ISO 80 and developed in Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 for 5 1/2 minutes.

[John Jarosz]

Thanks Jim & Vaughn, and I would like to see one of those Oregon shots too.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

I'm working on it. First it is a shot from the Redwoods.... one for Vaughn! Damnation Trail.

[Andrew O'Neill]

When I first tried xray film (8x10 green latitude), I hated it. Scratches easily, orthochromatic, rounded corners, and blue base. I love the stuff now. Once you learn how to handle it, it's nice stuff... and dirt dirt cheap. It's also great for carbon transfer printing. I develop it in pyrocat-hd, EI 100, in a flat-bottomed tray. I also like the fact that you can work under a safe light. My safe light is yellowy orange.
Here is graph of my reciprocity testing, and my first image I made
on VC paper.
Xray film thread: http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=48099
Lots of good info, and images there.

[Ari]

Not exactly what you asked for, but here is a scan of a carbon print (Dick's tissue) taken with blue-sensitive x-ray film and developed at the hospital on their machine/chemicals.

Exposed at 400 or 800 ASA -- can't remember.

Vaughn, nice shot.
There's an overall softness there; might it be your lens, carbon transfer, or the x-ray film?
Thanks

[Vaughn]

First two: Blue X-ray, 400ASA in open shade
Developed at the hospital's lab

Calder -- He is wearing a red w/black striped shirt -- never knew he had that many freckles! Scanned contact print (silver gelatin)

Bryce -- dirty face, with fingernail marks from other brother (Alex). Scanned contact print (silver gelatin)

Alex, Redwoods -- blue sensitive x-ray developed in Ilford Universal PQ Developer -- scanned platinum print. A little contrasty (no contrast agent used, so it would make a good carbon print), thus printed a little dark.

Ari -- The train image negative was printed "backwards" so that when transferred it would come out as seen in the field (note writing on engine). It was an attempt to find out if a two-sided x-ray film could be printed flipped and still be sharp -- the answer was "no". My prints are still sharper when printed with the side of the film facing the lens against the carbon tissue. YMMD.

[rknewcomb]

Does the "8x10" X-Ray film fit in standard 8x10 photo film holders without any trimming?

[Jay DeFehr]

Does the "8x10" X-Ray film fit in standard 8x10 photo film holders without any trimming?

Mine does.

[jon.oman]

I purchased 8x10 green laditude film from CSX Online. I still have to finish settng up my darkroom, but I hope to use it in early August. The tips I have gotten here should really help the learning process!

[Ari]

Does the "8x10" X-Ray film fit in standard 8x10 photo film holders without any trimming?

Yes it does, although it does have rounded edges.

[Ari]

Since I started this thread, I may as well contribute a photo or something.
I tried X-ray film for the first time yesterday.
I ordered from an eBay source, and got a ton of film, hoping that it would do a good job.
I bought Fujinon blue-sensitive film, 8x10.
Please excuse the poor photograph, but I just had to see if this film worked, and didn't bother with much else.
Exposure was f8 at one second; EI was 400 ISO.
Tray development, under red safelight, was 6.5 minutes, HC-110 dil.B (1:31 straight syrup) at 21˚C.
It got scratched, to be sure, but I didn't care in this instance.
I also exposed two other sheets, one at 100 ISO, another at 800 ISO, but these were clearly unsatisfactory to my eye.
Cigarette pack is red and white, liqueur is amber, egg holder dark blue, espresso cup red and white, elephant deep green, pen has black ink. Crossword book in the background is white with some writing on it.
Focus was on "Demi" on the espresso cup, and camera was NOT level, centred or zeroed.
Scan is straight, unmanipulated, cropped (it's an Epson 4870), placed flat on the glass, scanned as BW negative.
Any thoughts, criticisms (besides the obvious), and suggestions greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

[EdWorkman]

Thanks Ari- much appreciated.
On my screen the letters DEM seem a little soft on the edges.
Is that due to doubleside emulsion?,
Lens/aperture?
none of the above, it's just me?

[Scott --]

Dunno. I think it looks pretty promising. Maybe a little high on contrast, but that could probably be toned down with dil H or a different developer. Good start!

[Vaughn]

Ari, I think your working ASA will depend a lot on the light source used...not unlike traditional copy films that had different ASAs listed for daylight/electronic flash and for tungsten lighting.

Looking at a chart of films, I notice that blue-sensitives films listed are often 1 to 1.5 stops faster in daylight than under tungsten light, and ortho films are often 0.5 to 1 stop faster in daylight than under tungsten. No green-sensitive films on the list I am looking at (all non-x-ray films).

I have certainly noticed this using blue-sensitive x-ray!

[Andrew O'Neill]

Excellent, Ari! Well done for your first try. When developing in a tray, try to keep agitation to a minimum. Flat bottom trays are recommended.

[Ari]

Thanks, Scott, Vaughn, Andrew, for the encouragement.
I have a few more photos coming in a day or two, some outdoor portraits.
Ed, the softness may be due to the lazy scanning I did, I just put the film on the flatbed glass and scanned it as is.
Or it may be that I scanned the wrong side of the negative.
Or that with bellows extension I couldn't see the ground glass so clearly.

Vaughn, this photo was shot using daylight, just the subdued indoor kind, so I'm hoping that 320 will be a good ISO for most situations.

[Nathan Potter]

I've seen many threads re: x-ray film. Never tried it, but I wonder how long it will be before this too becomes hard to obtain? More and more facilities (both dental and medical) are shifting to the "other technology."

BTW, the "other" technology is getting impressive. I see the Teledyne Corp. XR4 digital sensor is listed as 6 X 6 inch at 4160 X 4160 pixels with a 36 um pixel size. I assume it is a CCD or CMOS sensor using a scintillator layer on top.

Anyone have some idea of price?

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Ari]

BTW, the "other" technology is getting impressive. I see the Teledyne Corp. XR4 digital sensor is listed as 6 X 6 inch at 4160 X 4160 pixels with a 36 um pixel size. I assume it is a CCD or CMOS sensor using a scintillator layer on top.

Anyone have some idea of price?

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

One chillion dollars.
Two years from now, $249.95.

[EdWorkman]

Thanks again Ari
i conclude it's just me

[Ari]

Ed, it's more likely a problem on my end.
This is my first week with an 810, and these are my very first exposures with the camera and X-ray film.

[Ari]

Ok, I tried a different tack yesterday.
Using my beautiful wife and daughter as (un)witting guinea pigs, I used an EI of 320, outdoors on a partially sunny day.
Lens was a Fujinon 250mm f6.7, which I think may be prone to some shaking; gotta figure that one out, because it's a very sharp lens on 4x5.
Processing was HC-110 dilution H (1:63) at 21˚C for 9 minutes.
Agitation was kept to a minimum, just rocking the tray gently every minute for 2-3 seconds.
This time I got a lot of streaks, the usual scratches (I will get flat-bottomed trays once I work out more pressing details), and even a light leak.
A little disappointing, but I think the processing is better-suited to this film.
Scans are straight, I adjusted levels slightly in PS.
I also found that scanning either side gives no noticeable difference in sharpness.
http://i52.tinypic.com/11h8itd.jpg
http://i54.tinypic.com/29ypdtv.jpg

This last one here, I went for something a little different, and I used a Super-Angulon 121mm.
I think, technically, it's the best of the bunch by far; I just wish I had asked my wife to prop her head up, as she looks kind of uncomfortable.
This one was shot at a distance of about 2ft, or 60cm, and looks sharper than the Fujinons.
I'm inclined to think (I hope) that the problem lies in using a 4x loupe with a 250mm lens at a distance of 10ft (3m), rather than a soft lens.
http://i55.tinypic.com/2vnj7zd.jpg

[EdWorkman]

Ari
lovely pics- you certainly nailed the EI
I'm sure you will master the developing- hang in
regards
Ed

[Ari]

Ari
lovely pics- you certainly nailed the EI
I'm sure you will master the developing- hang in
regards
Ed

Thank you, Ed.

[Jay DeFehr]

Ari,

Beautiful work. This kind of work resonates with me more than most, and yours is wonderful. Thanks for posting.

[Ash]

Ari i like your last shot. Redo it with good framing and maybe a slightly more flattering angle and it'd be a killer photo.

[Ari]

Thank you, Jay and Ash; this was not intended to be a gallery of my latest mishaps, but I'm happy to share nonetheless.
I think that the last few remaining problems are on my end: fixing any light leaks, adjusting to 810, processing with fewer scratches, i.e. quality control.
As to framing, my scanner only goes as large as 6" x 9", so maybe I'll learn how to stitch two scans.
And finally, whoever said that 810 was the same as 45, only larger, clearly had no idea of what they were speaking. While the skill set is the same, the concentration demanded is exponentially greater, and the mistakes, as you can see, are magnified moreso.

[Ari]

More stuff to share, with my wife and daughter looking beautiful (how do they do it?).
Uneven development was the culprit yesterday; I guess some agitation is a good thing.

EI was 320, conditions were overcast, rain was approaching.
Lens was the Fujinon 250mm f6.7, used at f11 and f16.
I switched loupes and got better sharpness, and the lens is performing as it should.
Focus was always on my wife's eyes.
Camera was levelled and zeroed each time.

Processing was 9 minutes, HC-110 dil. H, 21˚C.

Looks like the vertical streaks are from the lethal combination of my ribbed trays, and insufficient agitation.
I will get some 810 hangers tomorrow; I already have developing tubs, so I hope this will eliminate the current streaking problem, and get rid of scratches as well.

Scanning was straight, I stitched as best as I could, but I'm still only getting roughly 7"x9" images off the scanner.
The negs were scanned in RGB, and I didn't de-saturate, so some colour tint is visible in some of them.
Levels were adjusted according to each negatives problems; some highlights are harder to control than others, but I can reset pre-scan levels to fix that; same goes for the blacks.

I'd love to hear from anyone else who has their X-ray thing down pat, and can show a great image or two as well.

The learning curve is steep with 810, and X-ray film as well, but I've got 380 sheets of the stuff left; hopefully by the end I'll be able to crank out a decent photo or two.
There are some promising things here, though.

http://i53.tinypic.com/30rmm1h.jpg
http://i56.tinypic.com/2vcth0o.jpg
http://i51.tinypic.com/r2ndw3.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/312b8uc.jpg

[Ari]

Last photo:
http://i52.tinypic.com/sbmrrd.jpg

[Roger Thoms]

Ari, I haven't tried it but, I did read on another thread that some people are using a piece of glass in the bottom of their tray. IIRC it was to reduce scratching but it would also eliminate your problem of uneven developement from your ribbed trays.

Roger

[Ari]

Roger,
I read that, too; I'll be going with hangers first, and if that doesn't improve things, it's off to the glass shop.

[EdWorkman]

Ari
Ribbed trays are death, but then again flat bottom trays present their own death threats.
I have made MANY mistakes.
I even tried the freezer bag method.
There is hope in being able to load/develope under the safelight
because one can , with practice, avoid touching anything with the film when it's out of the holder- and one MUST-no groping allowed.
Flat bottom trays can work, IF you use a lot of developer and not let the film sink to the bottom
Because
in my experience, trying to pick the film edge off the bottom of the tray, or out of the holder, leads to fingernail scratches- I will intentionally waste the top of the [8''side]frame for an inch next time, now that i am able to get front tilt by modifying my 2d.
I will try to be more careful as well, perhaps with practice i can improve.

I haven't tried a sheet of glass, yet. I suppose i would try to clip/round the corners and use an oversize sheet in 11x14 trays for 8x10 and grind the edges smooth to avoid scratches on the film and cuts on my fingers- but then i could use ribbed trays.
Wish I was young so that I could "just do it" - too many daunts now

[Ari]

Thanks, Ed, I'm thinking more and more that hangers will be much easier on the film, but at the cost of using more chemistry.
And don't be too daunted that it stops you from doing things; as long as you're alive, you're young enough :)

[Heespharm]

This is easily remedied.... Through the film in a large ziploc bag and pour the chemicals in the bag... Squeeze some air into the bag before closing ... Agitate in the bag and the scratches should go away

[Jay DeFehr]

The bag works, and the glass in the bottom of the tray works. I like the glass because I move the glass with the film from tray to tray, so I handle the glass and not the film. I've developed over a dozen sheets now, and no scratches. I use a ribbed, 8x10 tray for 8x10 negatives. I don't agitate much. If you use the glass from a cheap, front-loading picture frame, the edges are rounded and won't scratch the neg/ cut your fingers.

[EdWorkman]

Thanks Jay- a lot simpler than I angsted about :>)
Ed

[gth]

What is the best method/tool for cutting down X-ray film?

Rotary cutter or guillotin type?

[Heespharm]

I've heard that rotary can scratch the neg because all the holders used to keep the neg in place but I dun like guillotine because the neg moves around when cutting

[Vaughn]

What is the best method/tool for cutting down X-ray film?

Rotary cutter or guillotin type?

I have been using a rotary cutter with a fresh piece of white paper taped to the baseboard (with marks to line up the film drawn on it) for a nice clean smooth surface. The scratches I have gotten have not been in areas that rotary cutter would have done the damage. Just my inept handling of the 7x17 film -- probably over-handling it, too.

I am not One with X-ray film yet, but it looks to be an excellent resource. I should buy a package of green-sensitive for comparison, but I do have a nice stash of 14x17 blue sensitive to chew on for a long while.

Vaughn

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Again I say for 8x10 use hangars and Pyrocat-HD 1:1:100 5-6minutes normal agitation or use trays with the ribs going down like U's and gentle continuous agitation. The last type with trays I use for 11x14 and 14x17. No scratches and I use Pyrocat-HD. It is cheap! Mix your own or use D-76. Come on now don't start complaining on developer costs when the film is so cheap!! It is not rocket science. How heavy handed are people? Come on now you do all of this in a red safe light. Be careful when you load and unload the film. Don't drag the film over the edge flap of the holder... pay attention. Especially when using 14x17.... pay attention. Some mistakes will happen but they should be minimal.

Use the cutter that works the best. Waste a few pieces and figure out what works for you. I have no need to cut film down so I can't answer that one, sorry. I'd try a good rotary if I had to do it. experiment as the film is so cheap.