Voigtlander Collinear Arrived Today

[akfreak]

I found a steal of a deal of a Century Master Studio. I paid $283 for the camera, stand, dual Packard shutters and a Voigtlander Collinear Series II NO.8 f6.3 lens. I have yet to determine the focal length but I did find that these lenses are fairly valuable. I am into portrait work so I hope the focal length isn't too long or wide. I hope I get lucky with regards to focal length. I know I got very lucky to buy this camera for what I have in it.

I was told how to determine the Focal length fro the GG, so when I get the camera all set up I will check it. a 23" lens of the same flavor in shiny and polished looking condition went for $3,260. Reading in the forums original patina is more sought after by collectors but the polished ones seem to fetch more money. I dont know what I am going to do? A modern lens will be all I really need. I may pass this one on to someone that better deserves such a rare lens.

Here are some pictures of the glass that came to me today.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2120/5714728563_c773cd0d03_b.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2792/5715293408_ef07c4e54d_b.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/5715295036_7d598bd08e_b.jpg
The shutters (function but need to be cleaned) Not sure what the wires are for, shutters work off air right?
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2630/5715297274_722931ed8c_b.jpg

I cant wait for the camera to arrive, I am going to restore it to like new condition. some Idiot painted it grey!

[akfreak]

Closed shutter, Brass piston on the right opens and closes the shutter with 2 vertical strokes. the one on the left seems to be a timers shutter or something. It works with the one on the right so I know that are supposed to be together. Looking at the Packard website (http://www.packardshutter.com/) these aren't cheap either. Not sure what I have yet but will know all soon enough.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2706/5714735537_0db7851bc2_b.jpg

[Steven Tribe]

Series II No. 8 sounds huge - but these were made in sizes up to 60cm (no. 13). Sizes 1 - 7 are F5.4 and the bigger sizes are, like yours, F6.3.

The focal length is 25cm and the german language listing says it will cover 21x24cm.

The "23inch" you mentioned is size no. 13, 60cm. Just so you don't loose touch will reality (!), this cost 4 times as much as your lens when new. There is now always a premium on lenses that cover ultra large format - in this case, no. 13 will cover 40x50cm.

[CCHarrison]

This ad from 1910 lists the No. 8 as a 17 inch focal length, covering 11x14 inches wide open and up to 16x20 at f/32.

Dan

[goamules]

If you don't need it, and want to maximize the bids, polish it. Originally it had a lacquer over shiny brass, someone has polished that off in the past, perhaps as recently as the past 10-20 years. It's been covered a lot before, but most users will like the shiny look more, and this isn't an old daguerreotype lens or anything that historic so collectors won't be attracted. I do not advocate polishing a lens unless it is fairly common, recent, and has already had the original finished ruined. Think of sterling silverware or brass fittings on a classic sailboat or 1915 car or such....they're usually in the bright.

[akfreak]

Series II No. 8 sounds huge - but these were made in sizes up to 60cm (no. 13). Sizes 1 - 7 are F5.4 and the bigger sizes are, like yours, F6.3.

The focal length is 25cm and the german language listing says it will cover 21x24cm.

The "23inch" you mentioned is size no. 13, 60cm. Just so you don't loose touch will reality (!), this cost 4 times as much as your lens when new. There is now always a premium on lenses that cover ultra large format - in this case, no. 13 will cover 40x50cm.


Yes the one I saw that went for $3000+ was a #10 and it claims to be a 23" (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=280647607342&nma=true&rt=nc&si=j%252F43sOpNyswUNS8J1roRyKF2FTQ%253D#ht_500wt_1156) I guess he was wrong. I is clearly marked as an #8 oh well, it is worth more that I paid so I am still happy, I suppose I will clean it up take some pictures ans se if I like it, if I do then I will keep if not I will sell.

[Steven Tribe]

Sorry about the confusing posting! The American Voigtländer appears to have made their own numbering system. The numbering change arises from both giving up size nos. 1 and 2 (6x6 and 6x9cm formats) and the no.4 size (12.5cm).
The American Companies size 8 corresponds to the size 11 in German catalogues and will be a sort after item for ULF people!

The listed Am. Voigtländer no. 10 does have the 23+" focal length he mentioned - see CC's table.

[Louis Pacilla]

Yes the one I saw that went for $3000+ was a #10 and it claims to be a 23" (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=280647607342&nma=true&rt=nc&si=j%252F43sOpNyswUNS8J1roRyKF2FTQ%253D#ht_500wt_1156) I guess he was wrong. I is clearly marked as an #8 oh well, it is worth more that I paid so I am still happy, I suppose I will clean it up take some pictures ans se if I like it, if I do then I will keep if not I will sell.


You must have missed Dans post. Your lens is more than likely a 17" FL. That said. I bought a Collinear #8 in barrel off eBay for a little more than $500. There is a big jump in price & coverage & going price between a 17" & a 23" That's about the big money cut off. The 17" or #8 is the last of the affordable Dagor type lens. After that they go HUGH for the 20x24 crowd.

Also there are plenty of 16 1/2" Dagors in shutter for around a grand. I know because a couple of years ago I bought 2x 16 1/2" Dagors one in a #5 Ilex & one in a # 5 Compond & I did not pay over $900 for either. The Collinear in barrel will go for less. I would think between $500-$800 would be a realistic sale price.

You still did very well given the packard is worth $100+ change. Did you get the 8x10 back w/ your master? If not you can plan to spend 100-250 on a century 8x10 back. Plenty of 5x7 backs out there. Not as many 8x10 Century backs out there & they get scarfed up fast

[akfreak]

Did you get the 8x10 back w/ your master? If not you can plan to spend 100-250 on a century 8x10 back. Plenty of 5x7 backs out there. Not as many 8x10 Century backs out there & they get scarfed up fast

My back looks like some sort of multi back, I will know bwtter when it arrives. It looks like an 8x10 back with a wood insert thet has 2- 5x7 masks with gark slides I think. Looks different than the 5x7 backs I have seen. I cant wait for it to arrive, I think I am going straight to wetplate si I will build a custom back

[Louis Pacilla]

My back looks like some sort of multi back, I will know bwtter when it arrives. It looks like an 8x10 back with a wood insert thet has 2- 5x7 masks with gark slides I think. Looks different than the 5x7 backs I have seen. I cant wait for it to arrive, I think I am going straight to wetplate si I will build a custom back



If the ground glass measures 8x10 then the sliding carriage may have the insert installed in sliding carriage. This gives you two 5x8 images on one sheet of 8x10. The insert slips into & comes out of the opening in the sliding carriage. Just a pair locking tabs hold the insert in place.

BTW- The wires attached to your Packard are for the flash sync. That's a good thing as it increases the value & usefulness of the Packard.

[akfreak]

Thanks for the info on the wires, Now I can stuff a Pocketwizard inside and get rid if the wires coming out of the front of the camera. They look ridiculous.


Looking at SKGrimes website about Packard shutters (http://www.skgrimes.com/packard/index.htm) I only see a single cylinder also at Packard's website as well. How do both shutter valves work together, I need to move the bulb from one to the other or use 2 bulbs. I am a little confused on the use of 2 shutters in a single unit. I am also afraid to open and see how it works. The prices are pretty high for the big ones.

[akfreak]

Looking at the back of my camera (still in route) I made a mistake. I was doing research and collected images of the backs available for the camera, however when looking over the images again I see that the back I have is not a double but a single. I found a 8x10 GG back only for sale at Glenn's it looks identical to what is on the Grey camera (mine). I just cant tell how big the hole is on the back of my camera. I dont know any known widths of the camera to guess if the back on it is 5x7 or 8x10,. What do you think?

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2359/5717712469_9d304ca3e5_b.jpg

[Steven Tribe]

I think you will find a lot of images of backs here if you search for Century Studio. I don't know your late model well but think the basic mechanism was continued throughout the life of Century - from early Century models to late Kodak/Eastman.

One of the confusing things is that there is an intermediate "piece" attached onto a single wood rail at the bottom. This is held tight by a single metal clasp which locks down on a small metal plate on the first part of the back. This intermediate back allows for horizontal movement (at least on mine) with definite locking positions at 4x10" and many more. Into this back, the standard ground glass back (with the usual 8 pins) fits. This could be a 8x10 or a 5x7 or perhaps even plate sizes ( 1/1 and 1/2). I think there is another version of the intermediate back which allows for both an independent ground glass and a separate film/plate holder on the moveable back piece with a similar sliding/locking mechanism.

[akfreak]

lots of variation

[Steven Tribe]

I have done a bit of editing to your jpg to illustrate what I mean. The edge between the 5x7 board (yes it is 5x7!) and the sliding back has been drawn in on the right hand side. I have placed red markers there where the board is clipped onto the sliding back. You just need an ordinary 8x10 GG board - with the standard measurements - to fit into the clips.

[akfreak]

it is suggested I try and find a complete Century 8x10 spring back. This is kind of confusing. Payinng mu dues is going to be fun and exspensive it seems. Cheaper than the DSLR world so far. It seems so many differnt companys worked together in the early years that some stuff will interchange. Kodak bought Graflex or the orther way around. So some of the parts are interchangable. The search continues will this work ebay item 330564346266

[Steven Tribe]

Well this item has a premium price because it is a Deardorff back. Which are well made, though.

Most 8x10 backs have identical sizes and I would suggest you look after a no-name back. You have a lot of work to do on the studio century and the finish/wood is different in the various construction parts so a non-original back will look OK.

Fortunately sellers are able to measure the back sizes quite easily.
I found my extra (8x10 and rotating 4x5) as " wooden parts from a large camera" at quite reasonable prices "there".

I enclose a photo of my single sliding back with a "new/sanded and lacquered" 8x10 no-name insert - but with modern ground glass.
Mine, like yours, had been converted to 5x7 - a sign of the economic times in the 20's/30's.

Century and Century parts have many name on them! There were only 2 owners, Century and Kodak. But Kodak placed Century in other organisations that they had already bought and used all these names.