4x5 upgrade to 8x10

[Leonard Metcalf]

Time to sell off the 4x5 and upgrade to 8x10... Will downsize my lens collection in the process. Which of the following lenses do you recommend I keep for 8x10 or should I start afresh with some different ones. I will probably buy fujion 450 C to go with it.

I know that I will want a 300mm - but would prefer good movements... Weight is no longer going to be an issue..

110mm super symmar
180mm Fujion A
300 nikkor M

Will the 180 get close stopped down a bit to covering the film?

The 300 will have only limited movements... Too limited?

Thoughts?

[Leonard Metcalf]

Oh.. What would the 110 be like... Lots of fall off... Or not even close..

[Ken Lee]

Perhaps you can tell us the kind of photographs you intend to make with it.

Those lenses may not cover 8x10 at infinity, but close to 1:1, they will.

If you don't plan to enlarge a lot, then you can use older lenses which are more affordable, and which may give more lovely blur rendition than modern designs with modern shutters... it all depends on aesthetics.

You need to ask all the usual questions about portability/affordability/quality.

[Brian C. Miller]

Ken, I'm absolutely certain that Leonard will make pictures like what he has on his web page. I haven't seen anybody yet whose style radically changed with a different camera format! ;)

Leonard, there's some 8x10 lenses for sale on the board here. One is a Wollensak 6-1/4", which is a pretty decent lens. Mine goes a teensy soft on the edges, but that would only be noticeable with huge prints. Otherwise it's quite sharp, like count-the-blades-of-grass-across-the-street sharp.

If you are going to be packing the camera around, like a bit of hiking, then lenses like the Wollensak 6-1/4" f/9.5 and Fuji Fujinon 300 f/8.5 are compact and light. My two Nikkors are quite large and heavy.

[Brian Ellis]

I used the 300M on an 8x10 and I don't recall feeling that movements were too limited for the mostly architecture and landscape photograph I did with 8x10. I thought it was a great lens for 8x10. I don't know anything about the Fuji or the Super Symmar.

[jeroldharter]

I have the Nikkor 300M and I find that the coverage is lacking so for 8x10 I use a 305 g-Claron.

The 450C is probably my most used lens on 8x10. It is a gem.

110, and even 180, are very wide for 8x10.

If weight is no issue, then a Rodenstock 210mm Apo-Sironar W would be nice on the wide angle end.

[Leonard Metcalf]

Backpacking with heavy kit is over... Am keeping a light weight 4x5 (Gowland) for walks, with only one or two lenses.. Hence wantingto keep 180 A and 300M. 8x10 will be for extreme enlargements for next series of works... I want to print very large... So hence the move...

For a 8x10 lens I would like something standard length.. 270-360 mm, very sharp... And lovely out of focus... Don't mind old world...

Would consider swapping something from my collection for the right lens, and for a solid and heavy monorail.

Yes my photography is changing... My latest exhibition (which opens next week) is all portraiture shot on micro four thirds and a Voitlander nokton 25mm f.95

Last month I carried my large format around for a week and only took four shots.... So I think it is time to do something different...

So I will be shooting studio portraits and field group portraits with the 8x10... And printing very large...

Thanks for helping out... Here... Oh and probably shooting with Black and Wte films....

[Leonard Metcalf]

I am not much of a wide angle shooter... I think I sold my 47mm super angulon after trying it once and carrying it around for a year. My 80mm gets probably only went on the camera a handful of times...

[Leonard Metcalf]

I have, if any one is interested in a swap...

80mm & 110mm super symmar & 400mm compact tele, schneiders.

135mm camulet N on a Fotoman 45PS

And my Ebony 45SU... But that is going up for sale tomorrow with, the Fotoman and all the lenses listed here...

Yes, blade of grass sharp...

My intuition and best deals, tells me to use the 300M and buy a 450C...

What do you think?

Thanks Ken, I hope this helps explain what I am planning to do...

[Leonard Metcalf]

Oh... I definitely want blade of grass sharp...

:)

[Ken Lee]

You're trying to balance two different effects: excellent blur rendition with razor sharp detail. Fortunately, you don't also need portability.

We get strong blur just by going to 8x10: a 300mm lens gives four times the blur of a 150mm lens, at the same aperture. A lens with round aperture will improve the look even further. Shot wide open of course, they all have round apertures. Vintage designs have round apertures - but then you need to use only the center of the image for best sharpness.

If you don't need widest coverage, then a coated Heliar or Tessar or Kodak Ektar will provide the best of both worlds: sharpness, round aperture, and moderate coverage.

For sharpest detail, a modern 300mm plasmat or a 300 Fujinon A (or 360 if you like) will be hard to beat, right out to the corners. The Fujinon is small and light with great coverage, but it only opens to f/9. Even so, that's the same blur you get with a 150mm lens at f/4.5: a lot of blur.

If you can use a Sinar Shutter, then the whole world of barrel-mounted lenses is open to you. You can get a 300mm or 360mm APO Nikkor for a good price (or Ronar, Artar, etc). The APO Nikkors are not only razor sharp, they have 10-bladed apertures, and their symmetrical designs make them perfect for close or distant work. My 360 Nikkor is a "poor-man's 360mm Fujinon A" - but it's sharper, with better blur rendition.

[John NYC]

A 305mm G-Claron is going to get you razor sharp at f/22. A 14-inch Kodak Commercial Ektar is going to get you lovely blur and the ability to shoot at f/5.6 for hair-thin DOF. Unfortunately, you really can't shoot the 305 G-Claron at infinity at f/9 and get the razor sharpness you want. And you can't get corner to corner sharpness with a Commercial Ektar, even at f/22. Since walking with the kit doesn't seem to be a problem, I'd recommend a 300mm plasmat, which will get you mostly both of what those two lenses I just mentioned do, but in one lens... so, an APO Symmar or a Sironar.

[Jeremy Moore]

A 14-inch Kodak Commercial Ektar is going to get you lovely blur and the ability to shoot at f/5.6 for hair-thin DOF.

Mine only opens up to f/6.3 :D

[John NYC]

Mine only opens up to f/6.3 :D

Yes! Sorry. My mistake.

[John Kasaian]

14" Commercial Ektar. A beautiful lens! 165mm f8 Super Angulon is a huge lens, but may work for you for a wide 8x10. The 159mm Wollys allow much room for movements, just sayin'.

[mcfactor]

I would get a nikkor-w 300 f/5.6 or rodenstock/caltar 300mm f/5.6. They are large lenses, but have great coverage, are very sharp, and have modern shutters