Trip Advice - California

[ThePenguin]

I'm going to visit my brother in Santa Barbara now in May and we are planning a little round trip, so we're renting a car to drive Santa Barbara - San Fransisco - Yosemite National Park - Death Valley - Bakersfield (the oilfields Belridge McKittrick) - back to Santa Barbara.

The issue is that both Yosemite and Death Valley are extremely big and we don't really now where to go. So my question is: Where should we go (in a photographers point of view)? (it should be farly easy access by car) And did we miss anything great on the way that you would recommend?


Thanks!

[jeroldharter]

Death Valley could still be unpleasantly hot in October. Don't forget King's Canyon and Sequoia NP.

[Vaughn]

Chances are you will not get to Death Valley via Yosemite National Park in May -- the road thru the Park probably will not open until June sometime.

[John Kasaian]

UNless you're hiking the back country, much of which will probably still be under snow in May. Yosemite Valley is quite small with roads and public transportation to nearly everywhere within it. If Tioga Pass is still closed spend your time in the Valley (make sure you have reservations) and Mariposa Grove. If the Glacier Point Road is open that is a must see.

N of Yosemite is Lake Tahoe and 50 & 80 are year around passes to access the East side if you wish.

There are plenty of places between Yosemite and Death Valley on both the East and West sides of the Sierras. Assuming you'll be on the West side if Tioga is closed, there is the southern district of the "Mother Lode" on HWY 49, Seqouia/Kings Canyon National Parks and once you get into the desert you'll find Red Rock park probably not too far out of your way, and there is Palm Springs with it's aerial tramway.
There are plenty of opportunites---too many for one trip really.
Have a great time!

[Preston]

Death Valley will be very hot in May. My suggestion would be to skip DV (if possible) and stay on the west side of the Sierra. There will be more than enough to keep you busy and happy between the coast and Yosemite/Sequoia/Kings Canyon.

A suggested loop trip would be the following:

Santa Barbara to SF via Hwy 1 through Big Sur.
SF to Yosemite
Yosemite to Sequoia
Sequoia to Kings Canyon
Kings Canyon to Santa Barbara via Bakersfield

You'll see a huge amount of varied country, and the weather is typically pretty benign this time of year.

The amount of time you spend in each place is, of course, dependent on how much time you have available. If it was me, I would spend the majority of the time along coast and in Yosemite, with shorter time frames for Sequoia and Kings Canyon.

--P

[tgtaylor]

Tioga Road thru Yosemite won't be open until late June. Instead, you can go around this closure by taking Hwy 120 west (to San Francisco) out of the park for approx 57 miles until you hit the junction with Hwy 49. Head north on 49 thru Gold Country to Placerville where you take Hwy 50 east to Hwy 395 and then head south down 395 to just south of Lone Pine where you come to Hwy 136 into DV. This is a highly scenic route with numerous photographic possibilities and side trips. I recommend investing in a good California Road & Recreation Atlas to plan your trip.

Good luck,

Thomas

[SW Rick]

A suggested loop trip would be the following:

Santa Barbara to SF via Hwy 1 through Big Sur.



--P

IIRC, Hwy 1 is closed south of Carmel/Big Sur due to a slide.

[Preston]

Thomas' suugestion is excellent if you want to hit the East Side and DV. The Gold Country Foothills along Hwy 49 are looking their best right now, and the towns along the way offer nice opportunities for photographing old bulidings. Columbia State Historical Park (in Columbia) and Railtown State Park (in Jamestown) are worthy stops along the way. The Diamondback Grill on South Washington Street (Hwy 49) in Sonora has the best food in the area--bar none.

Apart from Hwy 50, you could also take Hwy 88 (at the town of Jackson on 49) over Carson Pass and then down to 395. It's a gorgeous drive.

--P

ps: If you do come through Sonora/Columbia, send me a PM and maybe we can link up.

[EdWorkman]

Yes, Hwy 1 is closed at MM7, you could try the tel number given to see if a re-opening date is predicted- from the CHP website:

incident: 0090 Type: Lane Closure Location: SR1 MM 7 ThomasBrothers: 912 3J info as of: 5/1/2011 10:52:24 AM
ADDITIONAL DETAILS
5:32AM CALTRANS MONTEREY COUNTY ROADS PROJECT 1-888-836-0866
5:32AM THIS IS A REMOTE ROADWAY
5:32AM ALT ROUTE IS NACIMIENTO-FERGUSON ROAD

[Eric Brody]

Just a suggestion and reminder of a couple of facts. If you are from the east and have not done a lot of driving in the west, please be aware that the distances can be deceiving. You may find yourself doing little but driving if you get too ambitious. Really look carefully at the distances between places, do not assume you'll go 60-70mph, allow time to see some things instead of driving by them. Yosemite can take a long time to appreciate, Death Valley even longer, despite the heat. If you want to do photography rather than quick stops at "viewpoints," a shorter trip may be a better trip. It's no fun to be exhausted and frustrated. Good luck though, I envy you, and do not forget the HWY 1 closure in Big Sur mentioned by others. Have fun.

[Drew Wiley]

Kings Canyon is still closed, although you can drive to Grant Grove in Sequoia, but
not much else at this point. Trying to take in the West side of the Sierra as well as
Death Valley is a ridiculously ambitious plan. There's plenty up Hwy 1 on the coast
south of the Big Sur slide. The inland valleys of the Coast Range can be magnificent.
If I was looping around the east side of the Sierra for the first time, I'd be running up toward Mono Lk on Hwy 395 and seeing what side canyons might or might not be
open. This has been a very heavy snow year. Death Valley itself can get seriously hot in May - no place to have your car air conditioner fail!

[Frank Petronio]

I'd toss the map, drop a tab, and DRIVE.... you need an adventure, not an itinerary.

Personally I'd point it South and get lost in Mexico.

[dsphotog]

I'd toss the map, drop a tab, and DRIVE.... you need an adventure, not an itinerary.
Personally I'd point it South and get lost in Mexico.

Kinda like "Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas"?

[EdWorkman]

Eric said
"If you are from the east and have not done a lot of driving in the west, please be aware that the distances can be deceiving."
And don't believe that a named dot on a map means there is food or fuel available.
If the route is new to you make sure the tank is full and will take you to a BIG dot on the map. I once ran across a couple of young German tourists just west of Amboy who thought gas would be available, cuz it had a name and an intersection, so why gas up in Needles?

[Drew Wiley]

Well, it appears the loop road thru Sequoia has just opened, though they might require
chains at any time. In any event, it's a good idea to check the forecast and call the
park a day in advance. So the road down to Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon should open
soon and is a spectacular drive, but just be aware that what looks like a very short
distance on the map is really an all-day round trip, especially if someone is not accustomed to winding roads on steep terrain, and needs extra time for LF photos. This is not the kind of excursion you'd want to rush. Too much to see. Best to find lodging nearby. This area is relatively uncrowded compared to Yosemite Valley, and due to the varying elevations there will be plenty of wildflowers and waterfalls. But
Yosemite is not terribly far north. I grew up right between the two parks. If you really
want a cheap thrill, drive up the North Fork of the Kings. You'll need a full tank of gas
and a good set of nerves. You'll be on a single-lane dirt road with no guard rail, overlooking from several hundred to a couple thousand feet of air, at times crossing plank bridges.

[cps]

I could echo what Frank said. Baja (which is what I am familiar with) has amazing landscape shooting opportunities - though it is at its most picturesque in the early spring. I traveled there over many years and wish I had been doing more photography in those days.

You might want to consider stopping at Guadalupe Dunes Park in Guadalupe CA. It is a lesser-known gem, and lies only a few minutes west of Hwy 1 not too far north of SB. Beautiful near-pristine dunes running down to the ocean - these escaped the fate of the Oceano dunes (just to the north) that have been off-roaded to oblivion.

[John Jarosz]

I think any and all of the suggestions so far are more dependent on the amount of time you have and how you want to divide it up, rather than which ones to visit. Each location is worthy of a complete trip dedicated to it. Some locations could take many many trips without duplicating anything.

Even if you have a lot of time available, I agree with staying either east or west of the Sierras rather than trying to do both sides.

Too many different locations and you'll go into sensory overload and you'll stop "seeing" things.

Lotsa lotsa choices.

john

[mandoman7]

I'd toss the map, drop a tab, and DRIVE.... you need an adventure, not an itinerary.

Personally I'd point it South and get lost in Mexico.

A lot of times the challenge is finding the really good shot that's hiding behind the one that we thought we wanted to get.

[Ed Kelsey]

If Frank drops a tab and heads to Mexico, he'll probably wind up lying beside the road with an arrow in his back.

[dperez]

I am not sure what kind of timeline you have for your trip, but if it is a short trip I would echo what others have suggested... Less is more; don't try to do everything in a short period of time.

Focus on one or two areas. Distances are far in between. Make sure you secure accommodations asap, unless you will be camping. For motels outside of Yosemite NP, look up the two locations in El Portal (Cedar Lodge & Yosemite View Lodge (http://www.yosemite-motels.com/cedarlodge/)) These are the closest motels outside of the park. Reserve ahead of time as the peak rates are expensive. Room prices in excess of $170-200/night are not uncommon at average quality motels during the peak season.

If you have a little more time and want to hit several spots despite the downsides noted here, then you might also want to take a look at Mono Lake and/or Bodie State Park while on your way to DV.

The bottom line is you can't do it all in one trip. This stuff you miss just gives you a good excuse to come back again.

-DP

[Drew Wiley]

Cedar Lodge???? Wow. That's kinda like the "Overlook Hotel" in the "Shining". A bit of
real creepy history there. Sure things are fine now, but one might sleep too well knowing about its past. You can also stay in Mariposa for Yosemite. And it looks like
the road into Cedar Grove in Kings Canyon just opened, with one campsite already in operation down there. Don't know about vacancy rates up at Grant Grove area, but
might be something open mid-week if you call.

[Drew Wiley]

Typo - I should have said, one might NOT sleep too well ... Around here, the term
Cedar Lodge is an inside joke when we refer to some place more creepy than a Bates
Hotel kind of place. You might want to keep a window open so you can jump out, just
in case someone tries going through your bedroom door with an axe. I don't know if
little boys see ghosts there or not.

[dperez]

Well, if you eat at the Cedar Lodge's on site grill you will probably end up seeing ghosts. I could have run over a possum, left it out in the sun for a day or two, then eaten it as-is, and it would have been tastier than the stuff they put on plates in that establishment. I've got no problems with the motel itself, just stay far far away from their food.

-DP

[Drew Wiley]

I'm just amazed they didn't change the name of the establishment, given what transpired there - and that was only a dozen or so years ago. No danger now that
the serial-killer employee is on death row; but really bad food is pretty much symptomatic of west-side Sierra resorts. A few good places on the east side, however.

[SergeyT]

A few good places on the east side, however.

Care to share the names?

Thank you,
SergeyT.

[dsphotog]

Care to share the names?

Thank you,
SergeyT.
When I visit the east side of the Sierras,
I like the Virginia Creek Settlement. Campsites, cabins, motel. Pizza ,lasagna....Mmmm.
Trout fishing in the creek, from campsites!
It's just north of the Bodie turnoff, on Hwy 395.
www.virginiacreeksettlement.com

[dperez]

I'm just amazed they didn't change the name of the establishment, given what transpired there - and that was only a dozen or so years ago. No danger now that
the serial-killer employee is on death row; but really bad food is pretty much symptomatic of west-side Sierra resorts. A few good places on the east side, however.

I remember reading something about that case years ago but I forgot about it and didn't realize that Cedar Lodge was the place that Cary Stayner worked. Here's some info: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cary_Stayner (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cary_Stayner)

What is really sad is the story of his brother, who was abducted and abused for seven years.

In any case the motel is not bad. the rooms are clean, and the staff are nice. I've stayed there a few times without incident.

-DP

[Peter Mounier]

[QUOTE=SergeyT;721882]Care to share the names?


I don't know the name of the place, but there's a restaurant inside a gas station right off the Tioga pass road, to the south on hwy 395. I think it's a Mobile station. Very understated for the quality of their food. The chef there used to work at Yosemite Lodge I've heard. He has a great menu with gourmet food. It's been a couple years since I've been there, but I'd be surprised if they are not still there.

Peter

[Drew Wiley]

I'm probably not the best guy to ask about current eats on the east side, because in
the past decade or so I've simply gassed up or grabbed a cup of coffee in the towns,
then always off into the backcountry (I don't like much contact with artificial amenities
on my outdoor vacations). But up around Lee Vining and Mono Lk you can always chat
with the friendly locals at Nicelys, even if the food is basic stick-to-the-ribs fare, or
for the yuppie crowd, get a thirty dollar elk burger at the deli at the Mobil station near
the entrance to the Tioga Rd (I've never been willing to spend the money, but some
a my hiking companions have and say the sandwiches there are incredible). I used to
grab breakfast at Annies Kitchen in Mammoth - basic, but a friendly popular hangout for climbers, backpackers and other outdoor junkies. You can get decent pizza and jsut about anything else in Mammoth too. There's a good Mexican restaurant on the south edge of Bridgeport. There was once an incredibly good breakfast spot near Big Pine, but I haven't been there in a long time. Bishop food is so-so. I can't recall ever
eating out in Lone Pine, so can't comment about that spot. But if you head to the
east side, allow extra time to run up into Bishop Creek Canyon - the road will be
plowed at least to Aspendell - and for the June Lake loop. You can generally get clear
up to Whitney Portal too, above Lone Pine, for a great view. Nearby well-graded dirt
roads will get you to the Mt Williamson trailhead for a good look at it, or into the
Alabama hills.

[tgtaylor]

It's the Mobile Station alright. I've been going there for years and can remember when they were open during the winter. Kind of pricey now but still a good place to eat with bathrooms to clean-up and brush your teeth and ice machines and ice cold water to refill your water bottles.

Thomas

[dsphotog]

It's the Mobile Station alright. I've been going there for years and can remember when they were open during the winter. Kind of pricey now but still a good place to eat with bathrooms to clean-up and brush your teeth and ice machines and ice cold water to refill your water bottles.

Thomas

Here is the website...
www.whoanelliedeli.com

[Kerik Kouklis]

In any case the motel is not bad. the rooms are clean, and the staff are nice. I've stayed there a few times without incident.

-DP

A friend of mine stayed there last week and got eaten by bedbugs. Better that a decapitation, but still not too fun.