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View Full Version : Hike to North Dome in Yosemite???



ignatiusjk
21-Apr-2011, 15:07
I'm planning on hiking to the top of North Dome in Yosemite in June and was wondering if any of you have done this hike and how was it. It looks like it's a level hike no uphill switchbacks or anything like that.If you have done it let me know.How long does it take.

QT Luong
21-Apr-2011, 15:44
It is a moderate and pleasant hike, mostly shaded and not crowded.
From the Porcupine Creek to North Dome, the distance is about 4.5 miles one way. After hiking downhill from the trailhead, you'll regain about the same elevation (350 feet) up to the Indian Ridge. From there it's all downhill (1000 ft) to North Dome. I'd say 3-4 hours round trip. Be sure not to miss Indian Arch, reached through a short spur trail towards the East from the crest of Indian Ridge. It is a quite uncommon granite arch. Here are some pictures of North Dome and Indian Arch (http://www.terragalleria.com/parks/np.yosemite.22.html).

Jon Shiu
21-Apr-2011, 16:53
It takes them a long time to open the road when there is so much snow.

Jon

Vaughn
21-Apr-2011, 17:11
Yes, the road may not be open yet. I have only done it by one-way hikes -- from Porcupine Flat down to the Valley. Once with the 4x5 (about 25 lbs)...Indian Rock to North Dome to Yosemite Falls and down to the Valley. With the 8x10 (about 60 lbs) I went from Porcupine to Indian Rock. Skipping North Dome, I went up the ridge a way from Indian Rock, then cross-country down to the Snow Creek Trail -- then down to the Valley via Mirror Lake.

Both were very long days that wiped me out. But beautiful country once you get to the edge of the Valley.

Vaughn

MumbleyJoe
22-Apr-2011, 10:46
It's a pleasant and moderate hike. The only real hitch is that, unlike so many Yosemite hikes, this one ultimately heads downhill to your destination, making the return trip uphill. I always find that more difficult to gauge because it makes the return trip more difficult. There was only one section as you near the final open stretch of granite that is North Dome, where there was a bit of a tricky descent/climb. It's nothing to dissuade even an amateur hiker, just a moment where we had to actually think about how to move forward with care, unlike the rest of the open and clear trail. I hiked this (and Indian Rock Arch) from Porcupine Creek (not to be confused with Porcupine Flat, which will make for a much longer hike) with my 4x5 and digital gear without incident. As an aside, this is the only hike on which I've encountered a bear in Yosemite (on the way back, close to the road, as it was just getting dark).

My favorite write-up is here: http://www.yosemitehikes.com/tioga-road/north-dome/north-dome.htm

The views as the end are pretty damn cool, and shooting there at sunset is on my to-do list.

Last summer Tioga Road didn't open until early June and I imagine those trails were still pretty snowy and hard (impossible/impracticaal?)- even walking around Olmsted Point was tricky. By late June I think you'd be just fine. Anything in between is hard to predict.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3236/2695244062_56269221b8_d.jpg

ignatiusjk
9-May-2011, 16:08
Hey Luong, nice shot of Half Dome from North Dome.That would make a very nice B&W.

ignatiusjk
10-May-2011, 15:42
Dear QT,how long does it take to get there.I know you said three to four hours round trip but how long TO North Dome? I want to get there around 5:30-6:00 pm what time should I leave Porcupine flat to get there by 6:00pm.

Eric James
10-May-2011, 20:21
We don't know your what kind of hiker you are. It's a beautiful vista - why not leave early and relax on the summit? Bring some extra water and a snack, and a headlamp for your return.

Beautiful shots of Indian Arch Tuan. I've been up there seven or eight times by one route or another, but I never knew about Indian Rock - probably the dehydration and hypoglycemia. Crest Jewel is *****!

ignatiusjk
11-May-2011, 16:42
I don't have much time in Yosemite so I'm trying to get to as many places as possible. I want to be able to get a late afternoon shot around 5:30-6:00.I don't want to be walking in the dark. Any idea's how long to North Dome?

Eric James
11-May-2011, 17:28
We don't know your what kind of hiker you are.

Wasn't this clear enough :D

Vaughn
27-May-2011, 08:26
A quick snap of my photo of the Arch at Indian Rock.

16x20 silver gelatin print from a 4x5 neg (Gowland PocketView w/ 150mm lens, TMax100). Print photographed with a digital camera with the print framed and behind glass...not exactly the best conditions...LOL!

But I was lucky when I was there. I had clouds rolling through, which helped to simplify the background. And I made this negative in the half-light as a cloud just started to pass in front of the sun. This greatly improved the quality of the light and also made it easier to print (negative processed at the "normal" time.)

I set up the 4x5 and myself as high as I could to visually separate the back feature of the rock from the arch. I tried this same image with my 8x10 several years later and could not get the 8x10 as high as the I could the 4x5.

Vaughn

PS...dang, the more I tried to make the image on the screen look better in iPhoto, the worse it got. The sky is nice and smooth, the light a lot better, etc than what I ended up with. Oh well -- it is really quite a nice print in reality...sorry.

MumbleyJoe
27-May-2011, 09:14
Very nice Vaughn! It's a tough location to photograph, but that works nicely.

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 09:28
Vaugn - all you've got to do is sell computer monitors with some excess UV output,
then start distributing aerosol cans containing sensitized gelatin. You down load
and export your image, then at the other end they shake up the can like whipped
cream, spray it over the monitor, wait a few minutes, peel it off, then take it to the
kitchen sink for a rinse - instant worldwide carbon prints!

Vaughn
27-May-2011, 09:37
Thanks, Joe. If I can find an loose copy of it around here, I'll photograph it and use photoshop on my work computer to get a decent reproduction.

Drew -- you haven't patented that idea yet have you?! LOL!

ROL
27-May-2011, 09:37
I don't have much time in Yosemite so I'm trying to get to as many places as possible. I want to be able to get a late afternoon shot around 5:30-6:00.I don't want to be walking in the dark. Any idea's how long to North Dome?

If you're not finding the precise information you desire, why don't you try contacting the Park itself for info? I've noticed over the past few seasons that official ranger - led walks out to North Dome now occur a couple times during the season. I'm sure they will satisfy your inquiry. It looks like the Tioga Road (http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/tioga.htm) will open no sooner than the middle of June (Glacier Point Road opens today at noon – note pics). Given the relatively shaded nature of the trail and current snow depths, I would expect intermittent snow drifts throughout the month, until nearing the rim (read partially hidden trail – though there will probably be an icy foot path to follow).

I haven't personally been out there for at least 25 years, but my recollection is that with or without camera, it is one of the most amazing spots anywhere on the planet. South (Half) Dome so dominates the view that composing a meaningful shot is exceedingly difficult (though I quite like MumblyJoe's). It feels as if you can literally reach out and touch its massive northwest face. I would suggest the widest angle lens for your format and interesting weather, though this will tend to minimize the scene's monolithic experience. My own style runs more oblique and atmospheric (http://www.rangeoflightphotography.com/Yosemite/Stormlight%2C+Half+Dome+and+Tenaya+Canyon.jpg.php).


I don't have much time in Yosemite so I'm trying to get to as many places as possible.

BTW, this statement reminds me of something Carl Sharsmith, the (now) legendary California botanist whom I briefly studied with, was rumored to have said to a park visitor. When asked what he would do if he only had a day to see Yosemite. "Madam," he replied, "I'd sit by the Merced River and cry."

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 11:21
Even though the Glacier Pt area is only mid-level elevation by Sierra standards, and is
well exposed to the sun, this year does have the deepest level of snowpack ever recorded in certain places, not only here, but also in BC and the N.Cascades. Some hwys might not open all yr. And the high passes which do open can often have very slippery conditions due to meltwater freezing at nite. Might also be a misfire yr if folks
doing the full Muir or Pac Crest Trail are expecting horse food drops ways back somewhere - the passes will probably be "impassable" to horse parties all yr.

tgtaylor
27-May-2011, 12:56
Here's the latest from the PCT:

5/25/2011

Ned Tidbits reports to us by satellite phone that his party is north of Kennedy Meadows, having recently passed the Olancha Peak area. He says that there are thruhikers at Kennedy Meadows gearing up to follow his tracks.
Snow is reported to be "hard and compacted" at 2-5 feet deep on south facing slopes and 3-5 feet on north facing. Snow level starts at 10,000 feet on south facing and 9,500 feet on north facing. Early morning the snow is hard, reportedly requiring traction devices.
His party finds that their Kahtoola Microspikes are "rolling off the bottoms of our feet" on side hills, but that their Kahtoola KTS crampons are "great".


*****

The road to Reds Meadow won't open until June 24/25th at the earliest making resupply in Mammoth difficult:

5/17/2011

Due to record snowfall reported by Mammoth Mountain Ski Area, Reds Meadow road is projected to open later than normal this year. The US Forest Service, Caltrans, National Park Service, and Town of Mammoth Lakes will be working cooperatively to open the road and valley facilities as quickly as possible. The Reds Meadow Road to Devils Postpile National Monument and the Reds Meadow Valley is tentatively scheduled to open June 24th.Shuttle Bus service into the Reds Meadow Valley is scheduled to begin on Saturday June 25th.
Pacific Crest and John Muir trail thru-hikers who are planning food drops or resupplies via Reds Meadow Valley should be advised that June 24th is a tentative opening date and there is a possibility the road opening could be further delayed. Vehicle access to pick up hikers or drop off supplies is not allowed until the road is open to the public. Hikers with these needs may want to consider using Mammoth Pass to Horseshoe Lake for alternative resupply staging.
For more information, please call the Mammoth Lakes Welcome Center at (760) 924-5500 or visit the Welcome Center at 2510 Hwy 203 next to the Mammoth Ranger Station.


Thomas

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 13:38
The Kennedy Mdws in question is obviously the one down at the tail end of the range,
where it drifts into the desert, not the one adjacent to Sonora Pass; so snow depth is going to be dramatically deeper as one gets into the heart of the range. Even on a relatively normal year it can be over twenty feet deep of the shaded side of the passes this time of yr. Last yr it was unreal even at the end of June, and even more this yr! Sure miss my old leather double boots of days of yore, when I could posthole in deep snow all day long without getting my feet cold or wet. Modern mountaineering plastic boots are miserable for general hiking. Normally in May I try to get as much mileage in as possible in the morning, before the snow gets soft. But it wouldn't surprise me if a few folks are still getting around the backcountry on skis. Heck, I think
it's due to snow a bit more this weekend. Rather wet snowstorms are fairly common
around Memorial Day, often accompanied by really dramatic thunderstorms. But this yr
we're still in the ice ages, and all the storms have been distinctly cold.

ROL
27-May-2011, 18:20
Sure miss my old leather double boots of days of yore, when I could posthole in deep snow all day long without getting my feet cold or wet. Modern mountaineering plastic boots are miserable for general hiking.

Double boots for the Sierra?!? I don't think anyone needs plastic anywhere in the Sierra until, possibly, the ice couloirs mature later in the year. You might take a look at the Zamberlain (REI (http://www.rei.com/search?query=zamberlain&button.x=0&button.y=0)) line of boots. Old–fashioned Italian leather craftsmanship (I know – Italian craftsmanship can be a bit of an oxymoron) and 21st century comfort. I have both the "Steeps" and "Vioz" models, and I don't miss my old Lowa toe crunching, blister inducers one bit. But, yeah if I weren't slowed by arthritis, I would be skiing (http://youtu.be/QfcurDjrFzs). Good luck with your postholing!

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 18:50
REI doesn't sell boots. They sell glorified tennis shoes. That's one reason so many folks need rescuing whenever there's a significant early snowstorm. Nobody makes
real leather double boots anymore except a geezer up in BC who charges two grand for them, and you wait two or three years. Do you even know what they are? I put over ten thousand mile of really rough heavy mtn travel on those damn double boot, and climbed quite a few peaks too. I've waded up to my waist in snow for miles and
miles on end. Or do you think the Sierra just means the paved path between Yosemite Lodge and where they feed the bears peanut butter sandwiches all day long? But I've personally got deformed feet and need very serious ankle support.
Right now I'm breaking in a pair of custom Esatto leather boots. They ship in about
six months because they use modern CNC controls to cut the components. Not
double boots, but serious enough quality for my age, since I rarely ice scramble much any more. With my custom graphite orthotics, the total ran me just over a
grand. My last pair of true custom boots has lasted me almost thirty years of hiking
(and I'm out carrying a heavy pack at least once a week) - that's about twenty times
as long as those cheap made in China things, and a real bargain financially by comparison.

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 19:04
Of course, I'm being facetious a bit, and didn't intend to demean your personal backcountry skills or experience. Those damn double boots were miserably heavy,
over 8 lbs for the pair in fact. You could kick steps in the ice with them forever.
My new Esatto boots are very light by comparison but still give excellent ankle support and a true replaceable Vibram lug, and are the first serious pair of boots I've ever owned I didn't get any blisters breaking in. He has some patented way of
adjustment, and also uses computerized modeling to make the master moulds (out
of machinable plastic rather than wood like other custom bootmakers) - of course,
these masters are kept, and then the next price of boots are only half the price.
I hope this new pair will escort me gracefully through my own impending backcountry geezerhood.

Drew Wiley
27-May-2011, 19:18
(More rambling after another interruption)... Plastic double boots aren't particularly
durable and develop fatigue. I remember my nephew replacing his after every single expedition. The main customers for leather ones are arctic explorers, and a highly waterproof type of moose hide is used. My non-double older pair of custom leather
boots has survived more than eight resolings, but the last just won't take much more
stitching, and I've got to use copolymer roof sealant on the seams now. Still fine for
around here; but I need something that stays dry up in the mtns.

Vaughn
27-May-2011, 19:41
My boots are nothing exotic, and I don't wander around in the snow much. A wimp, I know. I have Redwings -- The Irish Setter Sport Boot. I could get a pair to last three or four years, with two resoleings. By that time the uppers were not worth the price of another set of soles. I built and maintained wilderness trails all summer and used them move dirt too much. The old trail builder's saying is that one's boots is the best, and the most expensive, trail tool one has. Also I ended up putting too much stress on my knees that way.

They also satisfied the wildland firefighting requirements for boots. That tended to be a little tough on the soles, too. Fortunately I did not have to do much of that.

I have been wearing the same model since I was 16 years old (a touch over 40 years). Redwing discontinued the model for awhile, but now it is back. I like their simplicity -- no foam, no padding, no Gortex. I remember crossing the braided rivers of the Southern Alps (NZ), squeezing out the excess water from my socks and just kept on hiking -- they dried out soon enough.

Not the best boot in the world, but I like them.

Vaughn

Preston
27-May-2011, 22:07
I have an early 70's vintage pair of Lowa Civetta boots. They are all leather, and built like a tank. I've put lots of miles on them, and they are stiff enough for my equally ancient Chouinard rigid crampons. I've done some pretty serious water ice/snow ice climbing with them, and they stood me well on Yerupaja in '75.

Just a quick note: Sonora and Ebbetts passes opened today (5/27). Tioga is still closed.

--P

Drew Wiley
28-May-2011, 09:55
Guess I'm just showing off my vintage talking about double boots. And yeah, I had a
wooden ice axe too - now have just half of it - the other half is stuck up in the ice
somewhere, and I sure did take a slide! I wear Redwing boots for normal street and
work wear. Once had to hike out over 40 miles with an 85lb pack and both ankles
sprained. Those heavy old boots were almost like a cast and kept everything together. Didn't help with the pain much of course; but excruciating feet were just
something I learned to live with until podiatry got more up to speed. Now my feet
are fairly comfortable provided I'm walking on uneven surfaces and not standing
on some flat floor or walking city streets. And my ice ice is modern fiberglass, though I generally substitute trekking poles instead, which has proven a mistake in
a few instances. Not doing much class 3 backpacking anymore, though I still prefer
to be off-trail quite a bit.