4x5 or rollfilm for shooting macro's of rock formations?

[Daniel Stone]

Hey guys!

I've got a hair-brained idea to do an open-ended project photographing rock and mineral specimens, primarily to do some posters for my local rock+mineral club(which I'm a part of, "Glendora Gems" is the club in case you're interested). Its mostly for my own use, making some high-detail shots for using as backgrounds for my computer, and maybe some larger prints to hang on the wall, IDK yet.

However, after looking at some of the options, I'm kind of at a loss here... I would love to shoot 8x10, but not having access to 10k w/s of strobe power, and setting a smaller budget(at least from the start) for film+processing, I'm just wondering if it'll be easier to use rollfilm in my 4x5(well, 4x5 back on my 8x10).

Not having a "dedicated" macro lens, my shortest lens is a 135mm APO-Symmar, I'm just wondering if using a rollfilm back would be the best option, or borrowing my friends rb67 system(since I sold my RZ) and using a few extension tubes...

what would you/recommend?

I'd be using tungsten lights(650W Arri's), with Daylight conversion filters attached to use provia 100F(or my small stash of EPN readyloads if using 4x5).

ideas or recommendations are much appreciated.

thanks!

-Dan

[Joshua Dunn]

This was discussed a little in this (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=74462) forum a week or so ago (mine is the 6th post). The question was about doing 6x17 Marco or close ups but I think you will find some good information. Marco lenses are for macro work. If you are not shooting macro and just shooting close ups than a good 135-210mm lens will probably be fine.

[Dan Fromm]

Daniel, small flashes close to the subject work very well. I've used tiny flashes with GNs (ISO 100, feet) around 30 with Nikons and KM. Yes. ISO 25. Now I use the same tiny flashes with a 2x3 Graphic and ISO 100 E6. Also a Vivitar 283 with VP-1, usually with the power dialed way down. Do the GN calculations, they should convince you that this approach can work.

Little flashes are more portable than hot lights, don't cook the subject. I know, in a studio and shooting rocks neither of these advantages is worth anything. But flash stops motion ...

Re lenses, y'r Apo-Symmar is very good but not so great for closeup. Depending on the magnifications you want to work at and y'r budget, you might want to consider using a front-mounted enlarging lens or even one in shutter. For my take on some of these lenses, see http://www.galerie-photo.com/1-lens-6x9-dan-fromm.html

Also, if you're not up on the technique you ought to buy a copy of Lester Lefkowitz' book The Manual of Closeup Photography and study it.

[Noah A]

Just think of how nice those big 4x5 chromes will be!

How close are you shooting? That seems like it would determine if you need a true macro lens. I'd imagine your Apo-Symmar would do ok for reasonable closeups.

If at all possible, strobe would by far be my preferred choice for something like this. You don't need lots of high-power lights though. First of all, you can probably get the lights fairly close. And since (I assume) the rocks don't move, you can do multiple flash pops to get the exposure you need.

[B.S.Kumar]

Stone Photographs Rock!

[Daniel Stone]

Hey guys,

yes, this will be primarily "close-up" distance-wise. I'm still trying to collect the best specimens and such, but most of them are either 3x4" or bigger. I'm trying to get them bigger ;). This isn't microscope-type work, merely more of a "documentation" of some smaller details on certain portions and details of lapped and polished flat pieces of agate, onyx, and other types of stone.

here's a link to some samples I'd be getting close to shooting myself(these aren't my shots however, but I'd be doing mine in similar fashion)

all were pulled from Flickr:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/49/135612351_21b03152d2.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3159/2907996683_596284a292_o.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/2908842730_e17809d69a_o.jpg

-Dan

[Dan Fromm]

Um, Daniel, that piece of agate was back-lit. Have you thought about using a copy stand and making a device that will let you, um, transilluminate a specimen?

Also, for what you have in mind to do a little enlarging lens in shutter will do just fine. Something like a 105/4.5 Comparon in #0 will do just fine. If you want to be sure, a 150/5.6 Comparon in #0. Hint: 105 Comparons in shutter sometimes lurk in Sirchie mug shot cameras.

Come to think of it, if you have a spare #0 I have a set of 105/4.5 Comparon cells I could be persuaded to part with.