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David Solow
6-Apr-2011, 12:58
I posted earlier about a specific film and thought about it. I'm not tied to any particular film. I just want to know what other folks experiences are with color film for long exposures: reciprocity factors, color shifting, contrast, etc. It would be great if someone had some experience shooting architecture at night with color film.

I have a client who wants a shot of a downtown building at night. It's about 15-20 stories tall. I will be shooting with a 75mm f/4.5 apo-grandagon lens on a 4x5 Sinar P2. If I want to have the building and the forecourt in focus, I'll need to stop down to at least f/16. Depending on the film speed and depth field range, the exposure reading could be in minutes.

Thanks in advance for your help,
David

vinny
6-Apr-2011, 13:29
tompaiva.com

dave_whatever
6-Apr-2011, 15:12
Provia is pretty good for long exposures as far as slide film goes. Generally reciprocity failure is negligible up to about 20mins ish.

johnmsanderson
7-Apr-2011, 14:10
Really love Ektar 100. I don't even think about reciprocity with it. For example:

This was something like ~8 minutes exposure. This isn't commercial work so don't hold me to a high "color accuracy" standard...

http://john-sanderson.com/files/13x16%20Spuyten%20Print%20Final.jpg

Also this was Kodak 160NC at a few minutes

http://john-sanderson.com/files/gimgs/12_1hiway.jpg

I didn't really worry about reciprocity much with either. I just aimed to overexpose a bit. Ektar is considerably less grainy than the 160NC film.

Haven't shot many transparencies in awhile, but I would agree Provia is a good bet, although very blue.

MumbleyJoe
7-Apr-2011, 15:22
If you're considering Provia (which seems a good choice given its fantastic reciprocity characteristics) I'd try Astia too. It behaves similarly, but I think looks a little nicer at twilight, based on these side-by-side comparisons (not my own).
http://www.flickr.com/photos/gullevek/2564784650/in/faves-mumbleyjoe/

David Solow
7-Apr-2011, 20:13
Thank you all for your recommendations. I really like the Astia over the Provia in the side by side. The Provia is a little blue. The Kodak 160 NC looks fantastic, too. I guess I'll try a few different ones in side by side comparisons to see their different characteristics. I just shot a some Velvia 100F, because that was what was available locally. Also, they were quickloads, which I am digging.

David

dave_whatever
8-Apr-2011, 08:54
I don't think the provia in that example looks any bluer than the astia, more that those particular shots are blue and provia has stronger saturation.

Kirk Gittings
8-Apr-2011, 09:03
It would be great if someone had some experience shooting architecture at night with color film.

They are twilight shots-not night shots. Buildings look like crap at night. How about 33 years of experience making my living shooting twilight shots? See my sites.

IMO I actually have preferred color negatives for many years-much more flexible, less bracketing. I assume you are delivering files and will be scanning the film? Shoot color negatives.

rguinter
8-Apr-2011, 09:17
They are twilight shots-not night shots. Buildings look like crap at night. How about 33 years of experience making my living shooting twilight shots? See my sites.

IMO I actually have preferred color negatives for many years-much more flexible, less bracketing. I assume you are delivering files and will be scanning the film? Shoot color negatives.

Kirk:

If I may ask: which color negative films do you prefer for your twilight photos these days?

Bob G.

Kirk Gittings
8-Apr-2011, 09:37
I've long prefered the Fuji films. They IME are a bit better in mixed light situations-particularly with green component in fluorescents and metal halides. So I use 160NS. Film type doesn't matter as much as it used to since everything gets scanned and the greens can oftentimes be cleaned by adjusting the saturation and hue of the yellows and greens.

l2oBiN
8-Apr-2011, 10:56
I second provia.

rguinter
8-Apr-2011, 13:13
I second provia.

Yes I've used a lot of Provia over the years for twilight and later evening photos. It has always been a good choice.

But with the current faltering availability of E6 processing I've been leaving my cache of Provia and other transparency films mostly in the freezer these days... in a paradyme shift to C41 that I can get processed locally.

Processing myself is not yet an option and not very high on my priority list due to other activities that I would much rather be focusing on.

Bob G.

Riverman
8-Apr-2011, 13:58
WoW! - John - I love these two shots.


Really love Ektar 100. I don't even think about reciprocity with it. For example:

This was something like ~8 minutes exposure. This isn't commercial work so don't hold me to a high "color accuracy" standard...

http://john-sanderson.com/files/13x16%20Spuyten%20Print%20Final.jpg

Also this was Kodak 160NC at a few minutes

http://john-sanderson.com/files/gimgs/12_1hiway.jpg

I didn't really worry about reciprocity much with either. I just aimed to overexpose a bit. Ektar is considerably less grainy than the 160NC film.

Haven't shot many transparencies in awhile, but I would agree Provia is a good bet, although very blue.

David Solow
9-Apr-2011, 04:29
Kirk,

I looked at your site. Beautiful work. I looked at the spec sheet for the Fuji 160NS. It lists the reciprocity factor for 4 seconds but not beyond. I was using exposures up to 6 min. What reciprocity factors do you use with the 160NS?

thanks,
David

David Solow
9-Apr-2011, 04:30
Thank you all for your input on this question.

David

David Solow
9-Apr-2011, 04:49
I've looked for Fuji 160NS online. I couldn't find a place that sold it. Does anyone know where I can get it? Do they have it in a quickload version?

thanks,
David

David Solow
9-Apr-2011, 04:49
just to be clear: I'm shooting 4x5.

david

sully75
9-Apr-2011, 05:31
John those two night shots are just incredible. Do you have a link to your stuff? Stunning.

SW Rick
9-Apr-2011, 06:37
AFAIK, FujiUSA is not importing the 160 in LF. Fuji apparently "discontinued" the 160S and 160c, replacing them with a single product. But the whole situation with Fuji, what they're up to, what they offer and don't offer is not for public distribution. Quickloads apparently are still produced and sold in Japan, maybe some other places, not brought into the US. Japan exposures.com sells Acros in QL, but it's about $125 US a box.

Rick



I've looked for Fuji 160NS online. I couldn't find a place that sold it. Does anyone know where I can get it? Do they have it in a quickload version?

thanks,
David