San Joaquin River Cayon

[John Kasaian]

I find that I'll be camping out at Squaws Leap, on BLM land where the San Joaquin makes it's way into Millerton Lake. A mere 40 minutes from my home. I've been there a few times for various reasons but it never struck me as being a photography "target" until now--the reason for this trip is Boy Scouting and my purpose is mainly to warm a lawn chair.
The steepness of the canyon, now covered with wildflowers and the snowy mountain tops have really attracted my interest like never before---and its so close by! All I'll need is some good clouds maybe. Cold is predicted which will keep the snakes with big sharp teeth nice & cozy in their holes in the ground. Has anyone here shot Squaw's Leap? Got any suggestions or advise?
I understand the BLM recently changed the name to the San Joaquin River Canyon from the older politically insensitive Squaw's Leap which was changed from the even older name given by the native americans: Rattlesnake Canyon:eek: Sounds like a PR problem, huh?

[Drew Wiley]

Hi John - my former ranch was right on the edge of the canyon - sadly, I no longer have the energy to keep up with all the maintenance of houses and brush control etc
and work on my normal stuff here on the coast too, so regrettably sold it after a good
offer. The term "Squaw Leap" was derived from a salmon jump which is now under water near the head of Millerton Lk. A local Indian girl was skinny-dipping when a lusty
white miner was peeping. She fell into the whirlpool below and he jumped in and rescued her. This was around 1905; they married and founded a local dynasty. But now the term Squaw Leap is applied to the prominent cliff a couple thousand feet above the river, which I was the first to climb. But later I found a convenient ledge.
This time of year the summits of those basalt mesas are so covered with yellow flowers
around the vernal pools that the ground looks almost spray-painted - in fact, some of
the most spectuaclar flowers anywhere I've ever been. But it's a strenuous hike up there, especially with an 8x10, and there's some cantankerous ranchers around who
don't believe in the Fed govt and assume anywhere their cows wander is theirs. But
you can sign up for hikes on the Nature Conservancy portion of Table Mtn further down
the road. The canyon above is still untrailed and very very rough to get in and out of.
Only a handful of people have been there in the last century, including me. The perimeter contains a few old mining trails. All of this is slated to be flooded by the biggest and most expensive dam in Calif history - for once I'm grateful the state is broke!

[Drew Wiley]

Oh yeah, should add that I could indeed fill a major exhibition of shots just from that
general area. Much of the 8x10 color work has never been printed yet, though I've
done a number of Cibachromes from 4x5, plus black-and-white. If you go to my website (which hasn't been updated forever) and look at the image on the 'Contact'
page, it shows a 6x7 handheld grabshot of last light over the canyon (printed on Ciba).
That shot made it into some early shows and made me some serious money.

[Drew Wiley]

More ... at the Squaw Leap campground there's a trail directly downhill about 1/2 mile
which takes you to the footbridge across the river. There's some interesting hiking on
the flats on the other side, but the slog clear up the other canyon wall crosses onto
private property and onto more almost unbelivable wildflower habitat. But if you park
at the very end of road near the newer and lower power plant, there is a short trail
right down to the river and some interesting pothole and polished rock stuff that might
attract your camera. The main trail leads toward Temperance Flat. There are a number
of caves in the area, including an incredible "slot canyon" ice cave which stays frozen
even in midsummer heat - it's no place for either a view camera or boy scouts, however - seriously dangerous and runs about half a mile back into the mtn. An award
winning set of short stories was written by JP Barnard about the folks around Temperance Flat - the names were scrambled to conceal identities, and the stories were actually tamed down because the real history was so lurid no outsider would believe the literal accounts. Some of the early pioneer families intermarried to the
extent they produced some very wacky and dangerous progeny. A couple of descendants are still alive and still smart to keep plenty of distance between.

[Drew Wiley]

One more detail and then I've got to get to the enlarger - an 8x10 color canyon shot
in fact, but from a different Sierra Canyon. The Indians were never sensitive about
the term "squaw". They used it routinely. And I have never heard of that section of
the river being called "Rattlesnake Canyon". Rather, there seems to be a few rather
overtly politically-correct pseudo-Indians activists who have generic concepts about
Indian culture derived from too many John Wayne movies. There were quite a few true aboriginals alive when I was young, and some were close family friends. A school companion of mine who I ran crosscountry with, himself of Monache descent, named Galen Lee lives in North Fork and is publishing some of the last bits of true local oral history passed down from the elderly Indians.

[Jim Fitzgerald]

Drew, great historical info. Thanks!

[John Kasaian]

Thanks Drew! Thats quite a bit of history I never knew about---and so close besides!
I have been down to the bridge and I think some years ago I found a section of the old French Trail on the Madera side but there is so much old stuff one comes across I couldn't say for certain. I understand the French trail is either open or soon will be, eventually all the way to Mammoth.

[Drew Wiley]

They've been talking about the French Trail forever, but probably less than two miles
has been built, and that's now unmaintained. I keep wanting to do it without the trail,
but age is catching up and I'm not heat conditioned like in my youth. Those lower
canyons can be far more strenuous and anything in the high Sierra. The section between around the corner from that little bridge up to Kerkhoff Lk is especially rugged, although a few whitewater types have gone down it in class 5 rapids in recent
years. And you don't want to drink out of the river (its bacterial from upstream power
plants) so would depend on springs. I know the routine well. The history of the narrow
guage railway and logging flumes etc have been published by a friend of my fathers
named Gene Rose. His books used to be for sale at the Shaver Lk general store. And
my father was a concrete inspector for Millerton, and shortly before his death I
drove him thru all the available backroads etc to learn more details of the pioneer
routes and geology. I know quite a bit myself from actually making geology maps of
some of the more remote areas, and studying aerial photos. In the past few years I've
done some very steep hikes on the lower Kings with the 8X10, but doing it days on end
would be quite a challenge. I'd no doubt opt for a 4X5 for an extended trek. Maybe
next year I can meet up with you, John, when things aren't so hectic. I still have several friends living around the canyon. When I was young the old sheepherder across the road represented the first white man in the area, so had plenty of pioneer stories; and again, I interviewed Indians who had grown up completely aboriginal, since that area wasn't disrupted like the Mother Lode, and the Indians were basically assimilated rather than exterminated. I have so many projects in motion that I doubt
I'll have time to publish a history myself. Last nite I was printing a shot of mariposite
and last year's bloom up in Bagby canyon - I use the flowers more as a complex or
intricate design element rather than for scenic effect. But it's sure a lot of fun just
traveling about looking at the Spring bloom too!

[John Kasaian]

Thanks Drew! I've read a few of Gene Rose's books and I've found the human history of the area pretty interesting stuff!
At four o'clock today the BLM locked the gate to Squaws Leap because of the shut down,and we were told it will remain locked over the week end, so on to plan "B"---Scout Island.

[Drew Wiley]

Probably the book of Gene Rose that would be of the most interest to outdoor types
would be the biography of Orland Bartholomew. One year after the Muir Trail was first
opened he did the entire route in winter using home-made wooden skis and a buffalo
robe for both sleeping bag and shelter. It is a classic adventure story, and it was half a century before a party repeated the feat using modern gear. I didn't know Orland, but my older siblings went to school with his kids. Locally he was known as the "last of the Mountain Men". Back then people backpacked with iron skillets and axes, but alas, Orland had no 8X10 in his pack!

[Nick Beef]

I find that I'll be camping out at Squaws Leap, on BLM land where the San Joaquin makes it's way into Millerton Lake. A mere 40 minutes from my home. I've been there a few times for various reasons but it never struck me as being a photography "target" until now--the reason for this trip is Boy Scouting and my purpose is mainly to warm a lawn chair.
The steepness of the canyon, now covered with wildflowers and the snowy mountain tops have really attracted my interest like never before---and its so close by! All I'll need is some good clouds maybe. Cold is predicted which will keep the snakes with big sharp teeth nice & cozy in their holes in the ground. Has anyone here shot Squaw's Leap? Got any suggestions or advise?
I understand the BLM recently changed the name to the San Joaquin River Canyon from the older politically insensitive Squaw's Leap which was changed from the even older name given by the native americans: Rattlesnake Canyon:eek: Sounds like a PR problem, huh?


Hello John, did you ever scramble up to Squaws Leap Cliff? I hike around that area a lot but now have the cliff in my sights. I don't know if it's accessible or not due to private property in the area. Thank you.

[Drew Wiley]

It's accessible from the River down there on the BLM road if you're willing to climb about 2500 ft of very steep hill and then locate the only relatively safe ledge
across the face, which is not apparent from down below, but distinctly to the right. I don't know anyone stupid or insane enough to actually climb that crumbly
cliff itself (except me and an ole buddy at the apogee of our teenage daredevil phase). This approach is all on BLM land BUT the landowner of the perimeter of the summit area assumes squatters rights for the entire hill, regards the Fed govt itself as a trespasser, considers all formals surveys bogus, and is literally a doty inbred. He might be a bit too old himself to come after you at this point, but in the past kept a few young guys around the ranch well armed. Unless you speak fluent hillbilly and can prove your roots in that area expect serious trouble. If you have a tripod, you're a "spy". Better to sign up for one of the Nature Conservancy walks lower down on the McKenzie Table. It's a lovely place in mid-Spring, and a far easier uphill hike without all the risk. I've been up all those table repeatedly, even with 8x10 gear. If you do opt for Squaw Leap, keep your eyes open, cause the rancher in mind can get up there via ATV from the other side. He's old school - if his cows wander there, he assumes it's his own land. The summit was never fenced because the cliff itself forms a natural barrier to
cattle, even though it's official BLM land. His legal fence is further down. Enjoy it while you can. They're talking about damming that canyon once again.

[Nick Beef]

It's accessible from the River down there on the BLM road if you're willing to climb about 2500 ft of very steep hill and then locate the only relatively safe ledge
across the face, which is not apparent from down below, but distinctly to the right. I don't know anyone stupid or insane enough to actually climb that crumbly
cliff itself (except me and an ole buddy at the apogee of our teenage daredevil phase). This approach is all on BLM land BUT the landowner of the perimeter of the summit area assumes squatters rights for the entire hill, regards the Fed govt itself as a trespasser, considers all formals surveys bogus, and is literally a doty inbred. He might be a bit too old himself to come after you at this point, but in the past kept a few young guys around the ranch well armed. Unless you speak fluent hillbilly and can prove your roots in that area expect serious trouble. If you have a tripod, you're a "spy". Better to sign up for one of the Nature Conservancy walks lower down on the McKenzie Table. It's a lovely place in mid-Spring, and a far easier uphill hike without all the risk. I've been up all those table repeatedly, even with 8x10 gear. If you do opt for Squaw Leap, keep your eyes open, cause the rancher in mind can get up there via ATV from the other side. He's old school - if his cows wander there, he assumes it's his own land. The summit was never fenced because the cliff itself forms a natural barrier to
cattle, even though it's official BLM land. His legal fence is further down. Enjoy it while you can. They're talking about damming that canyon once again.

Thank you Drew, excellent info!

I'm a mountaineer so I thoroughly enjoy the adventure of climbing to a summit but with such rock conditions I'll bushwack this one. I am concerned about the neighbor though so I'll give this a little more thought.

Have you ever been to Kennedy Table on the Madera side? I'm not sure if that's all private or there is some public access.

[John Kasaian]

Hello John, did you ever scramble up to Squaws Leap Cliff? I hike around that area a lot but now have the cliff in my sights. I don't know if it's accessible or not due to private property in the area. Thank you.
Nope. My job was to guard the chuck boxes from varmints, warm my lawn chair and drink coffee. Its why they call the dads the "Geezer Patrol" I do get to go hiking with the Scouts out of Cedar Grove in KCNP and off Hwy 168 (Brewer Lake) but mostly it's boy run and boy led. We just drive 'em to the trail head and wait...drink coffee...warm lawn chairs...and shoo hungry varmints away from the chuck boxes.

[John Kasaian]

Thank you Drew, excellent info!

I'm a mountaineer so I thoroughly enjoy the adventure of climbing to a summit but with such rock conditions I'll bushwack this one. I am concerned about the neighbor though so I'll give this a little more thought.

Have you ever been to Kennedy Table on the Madera side? I'm not sure if that's all private or there is some public access.
I climbed Kennedy Table when I was in High School. Our High School Climbing Club instructor had an "in" with the land owner. The last time I was there was 1977 or so---I went up to the ranch house to ask permission and was told to climb elsewhere.

[Drew Wiley]

Kennedy Table is authentically private property and would require permission. The rancher's road is over there in Coarsegold, and once had all the usual dire warnings, such as, "No Trespassing. Survivors will be Prosecuted'. They meant it. I mapped all the tables back in my youth with particular reference to relict periglacial features from the Pleistocene. There are some spectacularly big sorted mounds and rings where the wind chill must have been particularly intense back then. But my mapping was when landowners still had a friendly open range mentality, and only got upset if you were hunting and potentially endangering their cattle. That all changed when the first wave of hippies decided to live in certain caves and manged to start a few serious range fires. More recently my numerous 8x10 excursions have been.... well, think I'll take the fifth amendment on that one. I always went up Kennedy from the River, which could get interesting before the footbridge existed. But the last decade I've done my 8x10 hill climbing mostly above the Kings River anyway. The clock is ticking for me, and I'm anticipating being doomed to 4x5 one of these years, at least on steep terrain. My knees are still fine, but my toes are starting to suffer from arthritis.

[Drew Wiley]

John - I don't have much heat tolerance anymore. Guess my strategy this summer at Cedar Grove is to wait until things cool down and start the backpack by headlamp well after dark, until we get a few thousand feet of altitude. The last few trips I've started high to begin with, like at Mineral King or Kearsarge trailhead, just to avoid that damn heat. Just the hike into Roaring River was miserable for me and I had to take an afternoon dip. I'm more in my element above 9000 ft.In the Winds this past fall, that's the lowest I ever got. But if the road opens early this year, I'll probably take a May drive down there anyway, replete with 8x10. Last time I headed that way the canyon was filled with forest fire smoke. I eventually got above most of the smoke up on Mt Silliman, but must confess that was with 4x5. There is a lovely needle-sharp pinnacle up there. We had a very private little lake filled with trout that instantly hit the line. But not all the haze had cleared out, so I took a red filter shot to cut thru the haze. When I finally printed that neg, there was a golden eagle in perfect silhouette right on the summit!