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akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 00:11
Well I think I got a good deal on a Cambo view camera. It looks a little beat up and seems to be missing some stuff, but for the price I think I can fix it up enough to take some pictures.

Before I go buying parts and trying to get going with this I want to clarify a few things, like exactly what model do I have . I did some Google searches on Cambo but cant seem to nail the ID of my exact camera.

Mine is not an S2, 45NXII the back does not rotate, no guides on the vertical pots. It looks a Lot like an SC bit doesn't match the images of SC, SCX, SC2, The rise and fall marks are not there.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5582269961_2de7472eea.jpg

I am missing 3 cap on the posts, so I need to buy those or have them made at a machine shop.

The Ground Glass is not pristine, however I think I can work with it. It is just for focusing, The film will be exposed directly thru the lens, so I dont see how a dirty or marked ground glass will be anything other than an irritant.A question on the GG. Is the shiny side supposed to face out or in.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5228/5582945678_51ca0df2a6.jpg


The Copal shutter seems to work perfect. The lens is the Nikon Nikkor-W 135 f 5.6 and the shutter and lens seem to be a single unit. (what is this focal length commonly used for on a 4x5 (portrait, landscape, ect...) I need to better understand focal lentgh in relationship to the size of the film.

I reference everything to 35mm focal lengths and digital multiplier on crop sensors. Like my APC-s is a 1.6x multiplier because it is smaller so I have to assume if one goes buy this theory the 135mm is divided not multiplied. So a 135mm on 4x5 should be fairly wide angle I would think. However I would think the Center coverage would be dictated by the actual diameter of the Lens itself but I am just making assumptions and porbably very wrong, So I will Read

The lens and shutter combo
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5020/5582276655_6f0a1195b9.jpg

I am missing the Scale on the mono rail I hope that I can find a replacement or use some sort of tailors ribbon to make adjustments http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5178/5582876516_a239d6cb8b.jpg
End Pt 1

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 00:13
Also I need an end cap and Stopping pin.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5172/5582952444_3cc1fbcab2.jpg
It has gone missing as well. I dont want to be careless and let the standard adjust right off the back of the rail. If I cant find a New cap and Pin, I may be able to fashion something with a tap and a set screw. Ghetto I know, but this is no Linhof!

I got 5 Fidelity Elite film holder/dark sides (they look Mint) and a Polaroid back that I prey will hold Fuji Film. I love the Fuji instant films I play with the FP100B and C on some Olf land cameras so I cant wait to try it out on this baby.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5022/5582969712_0ed75f0b89.jpg

I am not new to Film. I have quite alot of Film gear (dark room stuff) I have a De Vere 504 floor model enlarger. I have 4x5 hangers and Yankee dev tanks. I have been using it for my 645 stuff. But now it's time to step up and really learn how to make a big picture. I can make a 30x40 fiber based paper print ( I have 2 huge fiber dryers) I bought some 4x5 masks for my 504 as well as a mixing chamber a while back. I was eying a Speed Graphics a while back so I have been planning to move up in format for quite some time. Just looking for the right deal.

The closest I have come to a view camera is in a store. I have played with a tilt shift lens Whoo Hoo on my 7D. I cant wait to get started, however I dont want to rush things. I want to make sure I am not setting myself up for failure. I want to go thru my camera and make 100% fully functional.

I need some sticks. I saw a set of Zone 5 wooden legs with metal spikes, I was just leary because it looked warped so I passed. Any recommendations on a good old work horse of a tripod that can be had by a frugal photographer as myself. Weight is not an Issue. The beefier the better my Manfroto 190xprob is great for my DLSR but is way too wimpy for the made in Holland newest edition to my stable, Cambo 4x5.

BTW I paid $200 for everything, that is the camera, the lens, the backs I believe this to be somewhat of a steal.

Sorry for the Lengthy post. I have a lot of info I wanted to cover. I have lots of questions. Let it be known I did search before I came here. I am not here to be spoon fed. Rather I am asking for a a little nudge in the right direction.

Thanks to all that care to lend a hand, Akf

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 01:57
I think I have an SC2

Dan Fromm
3-Apr-2011, 05:49
Your camera doesn't seem to have a rail clamp, also called tripod mount. The camera is very hard to use without one.

None on eBay right now, Glenn Evans (glennview.com) might have one.

Galsnaxalmfar
3-Apr-2011, 05:54
u sure about that? Doesn't look like it to me!

cowanw
3-Apr-2011, 05:59
Looks like the sc-2 basic that is shown on the Cambo site.
135 mm in 4x5 size is 35mm in 35mm size.
The other problems you mention are cosmetic.
You will need the Polaroid 550 or Fuji PA-45 holder.
The Polaroid 545 sheet film holder will not work.

cowanw
3-Apr-2011, 06:01
Your camera doesn't seem to have a rail clamp, also called tripod mount. The camera is very hard to use without one.

None on eBay right now, Glenn Evans (glennview.com) might have one.

Pic 4 has the knob of the clamp under the shutter release cable.

Dan Fromm
3-Apr-2011, 06:56
Bill, thanks for pointing it out to me.

brian mcweeney
3-Apr-2011, 07:45
I believe GG should have shiny side out.

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 10:28
Your camera doesn't seem to have a rail clamp, also called tripod mount. The camera is very hard to use without one.

None on eBay right now, Glenn Evans (glennview.com) might have one.

Yes it has a rail clamp I mounted it to my Manfroto tripod and it was like an elephant on a beach ball,lol

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 11:13
So the Ground glass Needs to be Shiney side out? In some material I saw from cambo it says reversable Ground Glass. So I dont understand exactly which way it is supposed to go.

Next the scale on the side of the mono rail is gone. Do I need this scale to make precise measurements or do you frame composition and adjust focus by moving the standards until focus is achieved?

How do I mount a dark cloth to the back of the camera, What makes a good dark cloth, does it have to be blocking material, Excuse not Have but better to be a blocking material.

Final question for this post, you are saying this back
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5109/5585490741_3ac4532b09.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5264/5585493305_2dcb65e7cd.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5269/5586085134_fbc3b05fd4.jpg

Will not work on the cambo, it fits perfect, it had a dark slide. Why will it not work. Is it because I cannot get film for the back or the back wont function on the camera?
What Fuji film will fit this back?

Revolucion Artistico
3-Apr-2011, 11:20
That looks like a polaroid 405 holder in the last picture, which will take the 3.25x4.25 fuji pack film (not the 4x5 stuff) which a lot of people prefer as it is much cheaper but you will basically get a "crop factor" when using it so you may want to figure out with your ground glass grids exactly what will be in the shot and what won't. $200 is a very good deal on the kit btw. Can't be of much help in identifying the model though, sorry.

Gem Singer
3-Apr-2011, 11:41
"Reversable" ground glass means that the viewing screen in the rear can either be used in the horizontal position, or reversed and used in the vertical position.

The actual ground glass is permanently mounted in the rear frame. The entire frame reverses.

The image is composed and focused on the ground side of the glass, and it is in the same position as the film when a film holder is inserted.

Most of the answers to your questions can be found in the forum archives or the LF home page. Click on the blue tool bar above.

Paul Ewins
3-Apr-2011, 16:16
Cambo was bought out by Calumet and eventually the cameras were rebranded as Calumets. Your camera looks to date from that era. Most parts are interchangeable from one era to the next, so the fact that the lensboard is labelled Cambo doesn't really mean much.

rdenney
3-Apr-2011, 16:44
You do not need the scale on the side of the monorail. It's used for calculating bellows factors for close-up photography, but you can use a ruler (or handspans with a bit of experience).

The Calumet-branded budget versions of this camera sometimes did not include any of the scales. No problem--I always make my adjustments using the image on the ground glass as the judge. My current Sinar has all sorts of scales on it but I still prefer to judge it with a loupe.

Rick "who has a similar Calumet-branded camera" Denney

lenser
3-Apr-2011, 16:56
I have owned and used a Cambo SCX since the early 1980's and I have never once had a need for the scale on the rail. It would be helpful in extremely precise scientific work or possibly if you anticipate needed to repeat a shot and take notes of the extensions for that reference, or possible for some macro work, but I can't imagine any other use for it. In other words, don't worry about it. The rail cap would be much more useful in terms of making sure you don't accidentally drive one of the standards of the end. Lacking that, I would just drill a hole for a round headed screw at the top of one of the ends and let that serve as a stop. As to the cops for the uprights, you might be able to still get those from Calumet repairs at 1-800-CALUMET. If not, they only serve as rise stops and holders for the rarely found and rarely used wire frame to hold a dark cloth off your head. Again, don't be too worried about it.

The Polaroid back you have will work fine with camera and using Fuji pack films as "Revolucion" mentions. The dark slide has been broken off and that is a big problem. You might be able to get a standard 4x5 dark slide and cut it down, but you will need one that is full length. Otherwise, if you leave this out far enough to grip it, you will probably have the other end of the film, fully exposed at all times. The blue pattern on the slide is an indicator of how far it needs to be removed to clear the film for exposure. If it isn't pulled that far or removed entirely, you may block part of the film during the shot. On your hame-made version, just measure from the bottom end on this remnant and the same on the new slide and mark that line. That's the business end so it will tell you when you are safe to shooto

Finally, you may be able to download a manual from butkus.com. They have hundreds of manuals for all kinds of out of production photography gear.

Good luck, and ditto on the fact that you got one hell of a deal on this kit. The lens alone is probably worth half again as much as you paid for the lot.

cowanw
3-Apr-2011, 18:08
Here is Cambo's web site
http://www.cambo.com/
I am not so sure that calumet owns them.

Vick Vickery
3-Apr-2011, 20:45
You did very well...the camera alone often sells for what you paid; and that lens is also probably worth that much and makes a pretty good all-around starter lens! Enjoy your steal!!

The rail on that model probably never had a scale on it and you don't need one; on a monorail camera it is easier to just stretch a small tape measure between the back and the lens to estimate your extention than to count marks on a scale.

rdenney
3-Apr-2011, 21:08
I need some sticks. I saw a set of Zone 5 wooden legs with metal spikes, I was just leary because it looked warped so I passed. Any recommendations on a good old work horse of a tripod that can be had by a frugal photographer as myself. Weight is not an Issue.

Another couple of answers: Bogen 3036 legs are usually quite cheap--often under $100 used with the usual 3047 head. They are abundantly strong for 4x5, and when everything is locked down, they are quite rigid even when they are beat up and wobbly looking. I have three, one bought new, one bought for $100 in used condition, and one bought for $15 at an amateur radio flea market.

You don't actually need the head, at least at first. That tripod gives you a bit of leveling with the adjustable braces, leg lengths, and leg positions. You can do a lot with a level rail to start with, using movements.

A black T-shirt or sweat shirt will do for a dark cloth to start with. Put the neck hole over the back of the camera, your head through the bottom, and your arm through one of the sleeve holes (outside in, of course) to hold the loupe against the glass. Use the other arm for manipulating the movements and controls.

Oh, and the ground surface of the ground glass always faces the lens.

Rick "who has made a lot of photographs in the field with something similar" Denney

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 21:51
Cambo was bought out by Calumet and eventually the cameras were rebranded as Calumets. Your camera looks to date from that era. Most parts are interchangeable from one era to the next, so the fact that the lensboard is labelled Cambo doesn't really mean much.
Mine says Made in Holland and has a 5 digit serial number 50**59 on the top of the base of the front standard. I think mine is one predating the ones from Calumet. Also on the vertical poles (I know they have a name, slide something) that hold the front and rear standards in place, there is no white little tic marks to mark adjustment. That must of come later when they were bought by Calumet.

I guess I will call Calumet and ask them for some parts, everything seems so darn expensive on their website. I bet they want $20 each for the rail caps:p

So much to learn. I really appreciate everyones input. It seems this place is very friendly, much like the Olympus forums I frequent.

akfreak
3-Apr-2011, 21:59
"Reversable" ground glass means that the viewing screen in the rear can either be used in the horizontal position, or reversed and used in the vertical position.

The actual ground glass is permanently mounted in the rear frame. The entire frame reverses.

The image is composed and focused on the ground side of the glass, and it is in the same position as the film when a film holder is inserted.

Most of the answers to your questions can be found in the forum archives or the LF home page. Click on the blue tool bar above.

So does the GG face in our out? Thanks for the tip on the search function in this forum. I dont think I can turn my GG vertical. The back of my Rig has two hooks that let you slide in the dark slides. I dont see any way to turn it to a horizontal position. Mine must be older than the literature I was reading, I see the rotating backs in the newer versions.

I am mainly a lurker here. I never really had any reasons to bother anyone. I promise I wont be a pest asking tons of Newbie questions until after I have tried to search;) .

Google give very little info about my exact camera. I still haven't found an exact match of mine. It would be nice to see a manual with an exploded parts view like the rest of the Cambos I have found so I can be sure to ask fr the correct part by name, or when asking a question I can use the correct terminology.

rdenney
3-Apr-2011, 22:26
Mine says Made in Holland and has a 5 digit serial number 50**59 on the top of the base of the front standard. I think mine is one predating the ones from Calumet.

It's possible, but I bet not. Cambo started making the SC series in 1970, when Calumet was still making and selling the CC-400 series of 4x5 cameras that were based on the Kodak Master View 4x5 camera. But those early Cambos had chrome parts. I think by the time Cambo had adopted the new logo and gone to all black parts, they were already being imported into the U.S. by Calumet, including some selling with Calumet branding. SC stands for Super Cambo, and the first examples of those had the old, round logo and were all chrome-colored.

My Calumet 45nx dates from no later than the mid-80's--I bought it used about that time--and it has older-style knobs than your SC. I think it was around 1980 or a bit earlier when Calumet started rebadging Cambos. Even in 1970, I think Calumet was selling Cambo roll-film holders, or perhaps Cambo started making the Calumet holders at a later time.

Eventually, though I don't remember when, Calumet bought Cambo, though the factory is still in Kampen, The Netherlands.

Lynn Jones was involved with Calumet during that period and he might recall the details.

There was a time when Calumet represented budget photography for amateurs, but that is no longer the case. I think your best bet for spare parts is ebay--indeed, you could probably buy a camera with the parts you need for cheaper than the individual parts.

Rick "who paid more for a bag bellows back in the day than you paid for your kit" Denney

Paul Ewins
3-Apr-2011, 22:29
Mine says Made in Holland and has a 5 digit serial number 50**59 on the top of the base of the front standard. I think mine is one predating the ones from Calumet. Also on the vertical poles (I know they have a name, slide something) that hold the front and rear standards in place, there is no white little tic marks to mark adjustment. That must of come later when they were bought by Calumet.


AFAIK Calumet simply bought the company and left it running as is. It is quite possible that the Calumet name was only used in the US and the European market retained the Cambo brand. As it is now, only the 45NXII is sold under the Calumet name and the Ultima is the only other Cambo monorail available. There used to be a variety of models in between, like the Legend and Master series.

I think your camera might in fact be a 45N.

lenser
3-Apr-2011, 22:34
The frosted side of the ground glass always faces to the inside toward the lens.

Your whole back is removable from the frame and can then be rotated to vertical and reset into the frame. The hooks you speak of are part of the spring system that helps to clamp the film holder tightly in place.

The only advantage to an actual rotating back (which were standard on the higher end Cambo's is a bit of convenience or if you want to park the angle somewhere in between horizontal and vertical.

The back mounts and dismounts just like the lens board. The latch is on top of the standard in each case and it just slides to one side to release the board or back. It's a good idea to keep a free hand on each when changing either the lens or the position of the back. Otherwise, they just seem to leap off the camera and at the nearest hard lump of concrete with a very expensive sound.

As to asking questions, that's mostly what we all seem to be here for, either asking our own or sharing experiences. Jump in!!!!

lenser
3-Apr-2011, 22:45
akfreak,

I just ran a search through this forum and while I can't figure out how to transfer the link, there is a complete manual for the SC under the acronym "SC" in a posting by Daryl Baird dated 21 Oct. 2007 at 10:16 AM. You should be able to access it by doing a member search under his name and finding this date and time for the post.

This is quite comprehensive and should help to answer some of your questions.

Tim

akfreak
4-Apr-2011, 11:03
Again Thanks for all the wonderful information. I cant wait to fire up the Enlarger and make some Big print.

What would be a reccommodation to make a Loupe or buy one that is for a budge minded person as myself. I have read a projector lens turned backwards will work. I have some loupes for looking at negatives, however a view camera needs one that is set up differently (so I have read)

akfreak
4-Apr-2011, 11:12
At Lenser did you mean this link the post SC (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=29893)

akfreak
4-Apr-2011, 11:28
Ok My camera is a Cambo 540 I am almost 96% it may also be a 45n it is not an SC that is 100% sure. Now I am cooking, Figuring out the exact model has been a bit of a challenge, but I am real close now. LOL, Akf

lenser
4-Apr-2011, 12:06
That's the one.

akfreak
4-Apr-2011, 23:47
And as to the Loupe?

BrianShaw
5-Apr-2011, 06:30
And as to the Loupe?

Sure, you can use a lens turned backward... but getting a cheap loupe might be just as good of an idea. Even a cheap plastic loupe, like the ones they have on the counter at the local photolab (I seem to recall that they cost about $6) will do the job. The focus isn't perfect because they are intended for use on a print but it is easy to see when the GG is in focus and out of focus. I suppose one could modify the skirt of the loupe to compensate for the thickness of the GG but I've enver found that necessary. Best loutpe for the purpose is 4X, but the 6X print viewing loupes work OK also.

BrianShaw
5-Apr-2011, 06:32
p.s I've read about people using the inexpensive reading glasses (the kind found at the local pharmacy for cheap prices) instead of a loupe. I'm going to give that a try some day... sounds promising to me.

rdenney
5-Apr-2011, 07:10
The shorter the lens, the more important is the ability to tilt the loupe into the center of the lens. For normal and long lenses (say, 135mm and up), any inexpensive loupe will work well. Some of those cheapies are 10x, and some report those will magnify the grain of the ground glass perhaps to distracting levels. But I have never had that problem. (Fresnels are another matter. The Maxwell screen is the only Fresnel I've found that doesn't get in the way of focusing with a magnifier.)

If you get a cheapie loupe, you might consider taping up the clear skirt with black tape to minimize extraneous light on the ground glass.

I ended up with a 6x Silvestri tilting loupe, which is much pricier than the cheapie plastic loupes but not nearly as expensive as the big-name loupes. But I use short lenses routinely, and needed a loupe with a narrow body that I could tilt in the corners of the frame.

Many recommend 4x loupes, such as the Toyo, but I think 4x is marginal for 4x5. Not so for larger formats, of course.

As you know, you're using a loupe for focusing, not for composing. For those who wear bifocals or trifocals, composing may be easier with a set of reading glasses. I'm often having to look up as I bend down to look at the ground glass from a low camera position, and tilting my head back to get into my trifocals is annoying. With 8x10, reading glass may be enough, but I certainly can't see well enough with them to accurately focus and set lens tilts and swings for 4x5.

Rick "loopy" Denney

BrianShaw
5-Apr-2011, 07:45
Many recommend 4x loupes, such as the Toyo, but I think 4x is marginal for 4x5. Not so for larger formats, of course.

OK, I have to confess something. I've only used 4x and 6x loupes on 4x5 and never had a problem, so I've concluded over the years that the traditional "sage advise" that 4x is the best is true. I also use 135mm and longer lenses ... almost never anything shorter.

I understand your comment on loupes for shorter focal legth lenses, but please help me understand why 4x isn't so good for larger formats. I don't understand that comment (yet).

Thanks,
Brian

rdenney
5-Apr-2011, 08:04
I understand your comment on loupes for shorter focal legth lenses, but please help me understand why 4x isn't so good for larger formats. I don't understand that comment (yet).

Maybe your vision is better than mine.

Rick "no theorist on this topic: If it works, it's right" Denney

BrianShaw
5-Apr-2011, 08:13
Got it. Thanks, Rick. My vision is degrading... hence my interest in trying out the reading glasses approach!

rdenney
5-Apr-2011, 09:34
I understand your comment on loupes for shorter focal legth lenses, but please help me understand why 4x isn't so good for larger formats. I don't understand that comment (yet).

Thanks,
Brian

Oops, I missed what you were quoting. I'm still no theorist, but my statement wasn't that 4x wasn't good for larger formats (than 4x5), but that it wasn't marginal for larger formats. For 4x5, a 4x loupe doesn't reveal (to my tired eyes) the focusing inaccuracies that are easy to see at 6x or 8x. The same would be true for 8x10, but there it just wouldn't matter--I'd be unlikely to be enlarging it enough for the difference between what I can see at 4x and 8x to make any difference.

Even though I'm no theorist on this topic, let's explore some arithmetic. If I can see 5 lines/mm with a good MTF with the naked eye, then a 4x loupe should let me see 20 lines/mm on the ground glass. Maybe not many lenses used for 8x10 would do any better, so what I might see with greater magnification wouldn't reveal anything but the lens limitation anyway. A 4x enlargement of 4x5 is 16x20, while a 4x enlargement of 8x10 is 30x40. So, for 4x5, the 4x loupe is marginal, while for 8x10, it's probably a really good match.

I have a reasonable (and cheap) Horizon 4x loupe, and have often used 4x magnifiers with medium-format cameras. Those cameras, however, have focusing aids, such as microprisms or split image targets. I still miss focus occasionally, and that limits print size. I had to use the rocking method with the 4x loupe with 4x5 to avoid missing focus--adjust one way to a level of blurriness, adjust the other way to the same level of blurriness, and then split the difference mechanically with the knob. With a 6x loupe, when it looks sharp, it is.

Rick "who loves the Horizon for inspecting film on the light table, however" Denney

akfreak
5-Apr-2011, 23:27
I got an 8X Loupe for $6.60 I will tape it up. Will removing the thickness of the GG make it so the Focus will be at the depth where the film will be. There is no adjustment in the eyepiece to correct focus. I would hate to ruin this New plastic marvel, LOL

I had an old turd but it is much bigger, not sure if it is a 4x , I used it for inspecting various things now I have a new turd. Thanks for the advice.
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5103/5594630280_d4de3d8ea2.jpg

I bought my first box of 4x5 film tonight. It is Ilford HP5 plus 400 (B&W) 25 pieces for $29 bucks. I see this is going to get costly.

Checked my Lab chems, I am ready to make some pics. Glad I have a bunch of decanted HC-110. I do need a new print washer for Big stuff, Mine was demolished during a move a year ago, I almost cried, because I know those things are way expensive for anything of size.

BrianShaw
6-Apr-2011, 07:03
I got an 8X Loupe for $6.60 I will tape it up. (snip) There is no adjustment in the eyepiece to correct focus. I would hate to ruin this New plastic marvel, LOL.

Now you're in business!

That is the same kind of turd I use. (I was mistaken when I said mine was 6x.) I also have one in 4x. I've always lusted after one of those expensive cool-looking loupes but have always prefered putting my money into film.

rdenney
6-Apr-2011, 08:16
I got an 8X Loupe for $6.60 I will tape it up. Will removing the thickness of the GG make it so the Focus will be at the depth where the film will be. There is no adjustment in the eyepiece to correct focus. I would hate to ruin this New plastic marvel, LOL

You can also turn it around, and if you have biggish eye sockets, install it into your eye ala a traditional jeweler's loupe.

I never had an issue using a cheapie loupe just like your plastic marvel on the back of the ground glass, and that's exactly the sort of loupe I used with my Calumet/Cambo.

Rick "who has also used 7x magnifiers that clip onto the temples of eyeglasses" Denney