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MonkeyDoes
18-Feb-2011, 08:07
Hi guys ... new to the large format scene .. like many been a 35mm shooter in the past doing the dSLR thing but this last Christmas inherited a Crown Graphic from my 88year old dad.

Dad's memory ain't what it used to be so he has been a little vague about this thing and I think he got it years ago and played with it just a bit ... ok I have had it checked out locally here and it is in pretty good condition. It has the standard 135mm Optar 4.7 lens and it appears the Kalart rangefinder is calibrated correctly.

Now to the goodies it also has a Schneider 90mm Angulon 6.8 lens mounted on a seperate lens board and a Graphic 23 '120mm' rollback. Dad said he got these years back with the intent of playing around but never used them.

So been to Graflex.org and reading up on a number of things but here are two things I need a little common language explanation and guidance on ... 1) the back glass appears to be not glass but a semi-opaque plexi or lucite/plastic type material. No frensel. The image comes through with the shutter open but the image is somewhat subdued and difficult to precisely focus ... is this normal? 2) I pretty much understand that if I am to use the 90mm I will likely have to focus by looking through the back unless I want to recalibrate the Kalart ... not sure how to accomplish this or even if that's advisable.

I've read recommendations that you can use a strip of tape and make your distance guide for the additional lens.

So a couple of questions come to mind for the experts.

Any ideas of where I could get additional tabs for shift locks to set for the 90?

also what would some of you recommend with respect to the back glass? I've searched the forum here and seen discussions about mearsurements of the glass and distance etc and to be honest I am still trying to understand how to do this and what it meanse exactly.

I fully admit my learning curve right now is completely vertical I have a pack of Ilford BW and several Fidelityelites and the rollback but what I would like to avoid is un-neccessary trial and error in favor of composition/exposure trial and error :-D)))

thanks in advance for whatever you end up adding to my current circle of confusion

Kevin

Jack Dahlgren
18-Feb-2011, 08:43
The ground glass is supposed to be translucent.You probably shouldn't spend money replacing it with something else until you determine that you are going to continue with LF.

You would place a second set of infinity stops on the rails about 90mm from the ground glass with the rails racked back into the camera. Focus the lens at infinity to find the exact distance. I think you will be better off keeping the rangefinder adjusted for the original lens and use groundglass for the wide angle. In fact, I'd recommend sticking with the one original lens until you have run at least a box of film through it.

The roll film back is another option and is most commonly used with rangefinder, but you can also use it on a tripod and replace the gg with it after focusing. As with the 90mm lens, I'd save this for a day when you are already comfortable with the rest of the camera.

Read things at graflex.org.

IanG
18-Feb-2011, 08:49
You mean focus lock tabs :D

Either place a wanted advert here (you need to be a member for at least a month) or look on ebay. they are listed quite frequently. Be aware the Angulon sits way back on the rail at Infinity the rear of the front standard will be almost flush with the body, you can use the Frame finder.

I use a glass screen & fresnel on my Crown, it's reasonably bright but you need to be careful some Crowns came fitted with a fresnel fitted lens side of the screen (mine didn't) and the register is different, so I fitted my fresnel fitted to the outside instead.

Welcome to the world of LF. Have fun :D

Ian

aduncanson
18-Feb-2011, 09:10
If you are focusing the 90 via the ground glass rather than the rangefinder, then you really don't require the additional infinity stops. Just make sure that you set the front standard far enough back to allow you to focus on your subject. You might just mark the position on the bed where the front standard allows you to focus to infinity.

MonkeyDoes
18-Feb-2011, 09:21
thanks folks

@ Jack ... I am likely going to stick with LF at least with this outfit as I am also getting my dad's enlarger and darkroom stuff (on the next trip home)

I came back to photography several years ago with an investment in digital SLRs but my goal this year is to develop a more reflex-ive working understanding of using light (if that makes sense) and I look at this 'project' to help force me back to the basics away from the crutch of internal programmed chips with the intent of my digital photos to be more deliberately 'good' as opposed to spraying n praying

and Jack thanks for confirming what I was thinking with respect to the 135 shooting with that to achieve a comfort level and basic competency was what I was thinking would be the best avenus so I appreciate you confirming this

one clarification ... when you say the gg should be 'translucent' then are you saying that when the shutter is not open that it is normal for this to appear white and opaque and when an image is transmitted on it for it to Not be 100% in image (ie clarity and definition) as what is seen by the lens?

oh and I guess the 90mm is on a 'recessed' lens board so I assume this will assist with the limited focusing ability of a Crown with a wide angle lens (am I on the right track with that?)

and yes graflex.org is my newest bestest friend

Jack Dahlgren
18-Feb-2011, 10:02
thanks folks

@ Jack ... I am likely going to stick with LF at least with this outfit as I am also getting my dad's enlarger and darkroom stuff (on the next trip home)

I came back to photography several years ago with an investment in digital SLRs but my goal this year is to develop a more reflex-ive working understanding of using light (if that makes sense) and I look at this 'project' to help force me back to the basics away from the crutch of internal programmed chips with the intent of my digital photos to be more deliberately 'good' as opposed to spraying n praying

and Jack thanks for confirming what I was thinking with respect to the 135 shooting with that to achieve a comfort level and basic competency was what I was thinking would be the best avenus so I appreciate you confirming this

one clarification ... when you say the gg should be 'translucent' then are you saying that when the shutter is not open that it is normal for this to appear white and opaque and when an image is transmitted on it for it to Not be 100% in image (ie clarity and definition) as what is seen by the lens?

oh and I guess the 90mm is on a 'recessed' lens board so I assume this will assist with the limited focusing ability of a Crown with a wide angle lens (am I on the right track with that?)

and yes graflex.org is my newest bestest friend

Just a note - you may have an enlarger and all the equipment and still find it is not for you. Your father apparently experienced this with the wide angle lens and roll film back. I'm happier with a scanner than I was with a wet darkroom - mainly because I have limited space and time.

It does take a lot more practice to take a decent photo with a large format camera. I'm not convinced that it makes you a better photographer though. Instead, I think that the immediate feedback that a dslr offers is a great tool for learning how to use a camera and compose photographs.

The ground glass is always translucent, but you should be able to focus a sharp image on it. If you can't, then your lens is at the wrong position. Use a loupe or magnifier to focus the fine detail. If an object is focused using the range finder, then it should be focused on the ground glass as well. The ground glass has some surface roughness or grain, so that will always be there but won't be present in image on film.

Revolucion Artistico
18-Feb-2011, 10:10
Hey MonkeyDoes,

I think I have an extra set of infinity stops, I'll look for them, send me a pm if your interested.

Ryan