How to instal a Betax #3 shutter without jamming the aperture

[Cor]

Well I got this nice 159mm f6.8 Wollensak Velostigmat Wide angle lens. It's mounted in a nicely running Betax # 3 shutter.

The trouble is when I mount this lens in a lens board and tighten the retaining ring, the aperture lever gets jammed, and is very hard to move.

How can I solve this problem?

Thank you in advance,

best,

Cor

[cowanw]

It is supposed to have a flange, not a retaining ring.

[Cor]

It is supposed to have a flange, not a retaining ring.

Thanks for the fast reply..yes it has a retaining ring with a wide rim with 4 holes to put screws in.

But If I would mount that flange on a board and screw the shutter in that flange, you would still want it tighten enough to avoid twitching the lens shutter combination around when you change time or F-stop?

I'll check it again but I am afraid it will still jam the f-stop lever in that case...

best,

Cor

[domaz]

A spacer ring would be ideal- basically a ring that goes around the bottom of the external shutter threads and keeps the retaining ring from contacting the aperture when tightened. If you look around your junk drawer maybe you have something that would work as one- or a rubber band might work as well. Basically anything to keep the retaining ring from tightening itself onto the aperture.

[Jon Shiu]

I suspect your flange is not original. I have the same lens and the flange has 5 screw holes as well as a raised lip around the central hole. The spacer idea would solve your problem.

Jon

[Cor]

Thanks guys, I'll try the spacer suggestion. I made a mistake; my flange looks like the one described by Jon.

Best,

Cor

[cdholden]

Cor,
Did you make sure to have the flange "lip" pointing toward the shutter or is it in the lens board hole? It should be facing the shutter. If you could post a photo, that may help to clarify.

Chris

[Jon Shiu]

Yes, make sure the flange is mounted to the front of the lensboard, not the back.

Jon

[Cor]

Ok First of all thanks for all the fast feedback, I appreciate it!

Indeed a placing a rubber spacer between the flange and the shutter solved my problem.

I think I know how to mount everything, I made 2 snap shots, I hope it is a bit clear:

http://members.casema.nl/cordieuwke/FrontFlangeBetax.jpg


http://members.casema.nl/cordieuwke/BackFlangeBetax.jpg

I guess it should work like this: the ridge against the lens, the 3-4 mm high rim with the thread into the board. The front of the flange is painted grey, and the screw holes are bevelled,

best,

Cor

[Jon Shiu]

Yes, that is correct, but I don't understand why it needs an extra spacer to work, since the flange has that lip built-in.

Jon

[Cor]

Hi Jon,

Yes I agree, and as matter of fact I thought I solved the jamming but I was to hasty, I still have the jamming problem. On the back of the shutter is a thin black metal ring, about 1 cm wide, attached with 3 tiny black brass screws. If I remove this ring/circular plate you can see the aperture lever ring which moves free than, you can even lift it out.

If I install this ring and tighten the brass tiny screws , the lever is moving with more difficulty, ie its already tightened before the flange is attached. (I hope I make myself clear, it's a bit hard to describe these things when English isn't your language).

So I gonna try to cut a paper spacer which I will install between the metal black rim and the shutter, which will lift off the metal ring abit from the lever.

Any other suggestions more than welcome!

Best,

Cor

[RickV]

Remove the "thin black metal ring" and spray the inside of the ring (not the shutter mechanism; unless you know what you are doing) with aerosol silicon spray, and refit the ring. Work the shutter several times and it should be smoother. Install the shutter into the lens board and test again. Cock and fire the shutter a couple of times each day for a week and then at regular less frequent intervals.

If the shutter has a "laboured metallic sound" (best I can describe it), apply a synthetic gun oil like "Birchwood Casey gun oil with teflon libricant" with the point of a pin to all metal contact areas within the shutter mechanism (remember, less is more!). Wipe of any visible excess. After a week of dry firing, wipe of visible excess again. Then it should run like new again. If not, it's time for a CLA from a professional.

[Cor]

Hi Rick,

The shutter fires fine and seems ok by the sound, it's the aperture ring which get stuck..do you think lubricating that ring would help?

Best,

Cor

[RickV]

Yes Cor, it may help but only use the silicon not the gun oil.

[Cor]

Last post I hope..:)

I installed a paper spacer between the aperture ring and the black thin metal "closing" ring and this seems to have solved my problem, thanks!

best,

Cor

[cdholden]

This might be one for Jim Galli. I recall a month or so back that he had a lens for sale, but missing the flange. When I offered to find my spare flange that I had for a similar shutter, he expressed some pessimism because of the need for a bushing.
Hey Jim, can you enlighten us on the need for such a bushing?

Thanks.
Chris