Continuous Tone Development of LITH film

[JMB]

I would like to develop a few sheets of of APHS lith film to produce continuous tones. I have seen recommendations for achieving this with Rodinal at 1:150. But I have no idea how much of a dilution this represents of Rodinal's ordinary use with a particular film. Is something like two or three times the amount of water that I ordinarily use with a particular developer and film in the ballpark?

Thank you!
Joe

[Cor]

See Jim Galli (http://tonopahpictures.0catch.com/FreestyleAPHS/DevelopingAPHSwRodinal.html)...

Best,

Cor

[Rick A]

I've always used Dektol 1+9 for continuous tone. You can use more or less dilution to obtain desired results.

[JMB]

Thank you. --Joe

[Andrew O'Neill]

The best developer that worked for me with APHS film is LC-1B low contrast developer:

metol 4 gr
sodium sulfite 120 gr
hydroquinone 4 gr
sodium bisulfite 30 gr
water to make 1 litre

The working strength is 1:6 to 1:12 depending on the contrast required.

[Jay DeFehr]

My favorite formula for developing APHS to normal contrast is the following:

A

Glycol 60ml
Phenidone 7g
Ascorbic acid 1g
Glycol to 100ml

B

sodium carbonate 20% solution

Dilute 1:2:100

Develop APHS EI 12 6min, 75F

The concentrates keep for years, and it's very easy to use. Since APHS is an ortho film, it can be developed under a red safelight by inspection. Enjoy!

[Jay DeFehr]

Here's an example of APHS EI 12 developed in my low contrast developer. It was a quick and dirty test of my 2x3 Graflex SLR. I cut the 8x10 film down to 2x3 to fit my bag mag. I was mainly interested in testing the camera, so the film wasn't handled very carefully, resulting in the rather rough appearance of the film. This is a straight scan, no PS adjustments.

[Nathan Potter]

Often used Selectol at concentration recommended for prints or slightly more dilute for printing using a condenser enlarger, typically on #3 Kodak Elite paper. Haven't done this since mid 90's.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[JMB]

Thanks guys. You have given me a great deal to work with a good deal of hope for the film as well. --Joe

[sanking]

If I were using lith film I would give Jay's developer a shot. Long stock life of the concentrate is a major deal for me and from his examples it seems to do the trick.

I have used Dave Soemarko's LC-1B and it worked nicely, but the stock concentrate goes bad very quickly so I wound up wasting a lot of it.

Sandy King

[EdWorkman]

Sandy
When i first saw this thread I remembered your divided Pyrocat posts and tried to order some 4x5 litho from Freestyle- they were low so i didn't.
So I haven't tried that combination- Have you tried divided pyrocat on litho?

[sanking]

Sandy
When i first saw this thread I remembered your divided Pyrocat posts and tried to order some 4x5 litho from Freestyle- they were low so i didn't.
So I haven't tried that combination- Have you tried divided pyrocat on litho?

Hi Ed,

No, I have not tried divided Pyrocat on litho. I have tried it on a couple of high contrast films (Pan Rollei 25, Rollei ATP) and it worked fine, but from there to litho film is another step, and I have no idea how it would work.

Sandy

[Jay DeFehr]

If I were using lith film I would give Jay's developer a shot. Long stock life of the concentrate is a major deal for me and from his examples it seems to do the trick.

I have used Dave Soemarko's LC-1B and it worked nicely, but the stock concentrate goes bad very quickly so I wound up wasting a lot of it.

Sandy King

Sandy,

I remember you expressing an interest in a reliable developer for lith films, and this one is the best I've tried; it works just like a normal developer- no long development times or exotic procedures- and it gives a welcome boost in speed with pictorial contrast and excellent gradation. Unfortunately, Freestyle no longer lists APHS film! I hope I can find another source, because this is a practical combination for me.

[Cor]

Jay,

Your developer looks very promising! Thus far I have used Dave's LC1 and am quite happy about it, and haven't experienced LC1 stocks getting off as Sandy has seen. I have kept my stock (as a 5 times concentration) cool (4-10degC) for more than 2 years now without problems.

I reach a meagre 1 asa with APHS lith, so your 12 asa is very tempting!

Best,

Cor

[Jay DeFehr]

I have 100' of Kodak Imagelink HQ I've never been able to get satisfactory gradation from. Last night I tried it out with my low contrast developer. The subject is juliet (my favorite), the light is a 42 watt spiral flourescent in a 12" reflector. It was shot handheld at EI 25, so the image is not sharp, but the gradation is the best I've been able to get from this film. The print shows detail in the cheek highlight, but the scan doesn't. I wish I knew more about how to get good scans. The color is accurate on my monitor. I'm using a metol print developer. Development was 6min @ 75F with continuous agitation. Next time I'll drop the temp down to 70F. I had to use 100 units of yellow filtration to tame the contrast. The paper is Arista EDU, 5x7, and the neg is 35mm.