Velostigmat Rehab

[David Aimone]

Well, I've wanted a Wollensak Velostigmat with adjustable soft focus for some time, and I just picked up one that needs cleaning and comes in a shutter housing without shutter and aperture blades. It looks like it was an old betax #4 shutter.

So, I have two other velostigmats, an 8 1/4" series II and a 12" series IV, both in betax #4 shutters. I figured this "new" one would fit in that shutter. I still believe it does, and the rear lens piece actually screws right in. The front piece, however, is larger, and the old non-functional shutter housing has what seems to be a larger fitting for the wider diameter front lens housing.

Is it possible to switch this fitting with one of the smaller ones on the other betax #4's? It looks like it would fit in theory, problem is I can't seem to get the fitting from either shutter off with plain old hand force. Do these come off and should I look for a way to carefully apply more pressure/force?

Here are some photos:

http://www.davidaimone.com/velostigmat

Also, the metal is quite dirty. What's the best way to clean? The front lens element makes an awful squeaking noise when loosened or tightened.

David

[eddie]

you need to get the adapter ring off the shutter. he shutter is standard. the adapter ring fits all the shutters and only certain specific lenses.

[David Aimone]

eddie, so the adapter ring for say the 8 1/4" series two has to come off the "good" shutter, replaced by the adapter ring for the 9 1/2" off the bad shutter?

If so, any secrets to getting them off without doing damage to the adapter ring or good shutter?

[Jim Galli]

Yeah, it'll come off. Get a piece of old inner tube and make a couple of 'grips'. It should break loose with some torque.

[patrickjames]

If the adapter extends from the shutter, a piece of gaffers tape taped to a flat surface with the adhesive out works well, or a clean sheet of rubber. Just press down and twist. If that doesn't do it, you could use a drop or two of a penetrant like PB Blaster. I am not a fan of it, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I had a Zeiss lens that had a stuck retaining ring and Zeiss wouldn't touch it due to "lack of available parts". I used the PB Blaster and it came out. Easy does it though. It is penetrating which means it goes everywhere. It is best to use a pin to apply a tiny bit at a time.

Good luck! That looks like an awesome lens. I am jealous!

[David Aimone]

Thanks, Everyone.

I'll give it a try without penetrant first, and then with if I have to. I'll let you know how it comes out.

So, CLEANING the metal--what's the best way to do that?

[David Aimone]

Ok, so I've run into a bit of a snag here and advice from more experienced professionals is necessary.

I was able to remove the step-down adapter for the front element from my 8.25" series two on it's Aphex #4 shutter (haven't been able yet to remove from my 12" series IV on Aphex 4 though). The front lens of the 9.5" series two DOES fit right into the shutter now with no adapter. The problem is, it only fits if you take the rear element off the front lens. The lens itself protrudes far enough backward that it touches the shutter mechanism and won't begin to thread. Interestingly, if I take that rear element out (of the front lens piece) but install it's retaining ring (or not), it will fit onto the shutter. But when the element is installed, the tapered lens element protrudes just far enough past the end of that tapered retaining ring to keep the lens from threading.

This leads me to wonder if this lens is actually in it's original configuration, or if it's been altered. Or if it needs a different shutter. It obviously fit into the "empty" Aphex #4 because there was no internal mechanism to get in the way.

Also on a different but related subject, I read the thread on the "modification" to allow the soft focus control to go beyond 5. Interestingly, I haven't taken the front plate off yet, but the limiting screw must have been already removed because the front element can already be unscrewed past five and taken all the way off.

The tapered section you can see on the back of the rear element on the right side of this photo:
http://www.davidaimone.com/img/s1/v19/p3719040-4.jpg

[David Aimone]

bump... Anyone...any suggestions?

What might I try next? Thanks!

[Jon Shiu]

Might try a betax no. 4 shutter?

Jon

[David Aimone]

That might be worth a try but I don't have one available to try...


Might try a betax no. 4 shutter?

Jon

[Louis Pacilla]

That might be worth a try but I don't have one available to try...


All the shutters you have are Betax. I have not seen that you have any Alphax shutters.

[David Aimone]

You are absolutely correct. Somewhere I translated betax to alphax. Sorry for the confusion.


All the shutters you have are Betax. I have not seen that you have any Alphax shutters.

[David Aimone]

Any ideas for making this work? Jim, Eddie? Anyone?

So close.....

[Jim Galli]

David, I believe you're missing an extension piece that holds the front group out from the shutter perhaps 1/2 an inch or so.

Anybody got a nice original that they can photograph a side view from. I've a 12 but not a 9 1/2

Mark Sawyer, do you still have one?

[David Aimone]

Thanks, Jim. Any idea of how/where I might acquire/create one of these extension pieces. Or do I need to get REALLY creative?

David



David, I believe you're missing an extension piece that holds the front group out from the shutter perhaps 1/2 an inch or so.

Anybody got a nice original that they can photograph a side view from. I've a 12 but not a 9 1/2

Mark Sawyer, do you still have one?

[Jim Galli]

Thanks, Jim. Any idea of how/where I might acquire/create one of these extension pieces. Or do I need to get REALLY creative?

David

First you would need to know the exact length of displacement from the shutter face to the flat on the lens. Then find a machinist that can make it. It doesn't need to be as pretty as the original to work. Aluminum would work OK. Brass would be better.

[David Aimone]

Jim, does the absolute distance between the element group in front of the shutter and the elements behind the shutter matter? What does moving the front farther from the shutter do?

Thanks again!

[eddie]

Yes. They need to be in the correct position.

[Jim Galli]

Yes. They need to be in the correct position. Even more so I think on a non-symmetrical type like a Tessar.

[cowanw]

I looked at mine, which is in Barrel, and the spacer is 1/2 inch but the aperture mechanism sits inside this and is held in place by a retaining ring. So no help there.

[David Aimone]

This 9.5" series II lens is now functioning well with an adapter made by SK Grimes for $80. One annoying thing though: the diffusion adjustment ring makes an awful sound when turned. Sort of a light frictiony squealing noise, just a tad better than fingernails on the blackboard.

What should I use to clean and/or lubricate this?

David

[cdholden]

This 9.5" series II lens is now functioning well with an adapter made by SK Grimes for $80. One annoying thing though: the diffusion adjustment ring makes an awful sound when turned. Sort of a light frictiony squealing noise, just a tad better than fingernails on the blackboard.

What should I use to clean and/or lubricate this?

David

Has it been modified to go past 5? If not, Mark Sawyer has posted a modification ( http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=57385 ) that tells how to remove the front bezel and remove a set screw that acts as a stop. With this set screw removed, my 15.5" Velostigmat can get up to 17 turns (just before coming out) instead of the standard one turn for diffusion. The further out it goes, the more diffusion you get. If it can be removed, take the opportunity to clean the threads. I've used WD-40 a couple of times on threads with success. While it lubricates and displaces water, it doesn't make a mess and go everywhere like some penetrating oils do. Apply sparingly with toothpick or syringe.

Chris

[David Aimone]

Yes, the screw was removed by someone before me, so the front keeps turning and comes off. I will give it a thorough, careful cleaning.

Thanks!

David