Argyrotype Help

[mystq3]

Hello,

I've been using the Argyrotype kit as sold by Bostick & Sullivan, and have tried endlessly, following the directions to the T, with the same result.

Whenever I process an image, it comes out a light grey and VERY splotchy, with hardly any contrast!

I have tried Lana, Fabriano, and BFK papers, I have tried adding Tween20 to the coating solution, different negatives (usually I either use an 8x10, or Pictorico), and I have even tried extremely overexposing the image - but NOTHING seems to work!

Any ideas?? Over half my bottle is gone, and I don't know what to do!

Thanks

[cjbroadbent]

... Whenever I process an image, it comes out a light grey and VERY splotchy, with hardly any contrast! ...
Two small tips:
You need a bullet-proof negative - like 20 minutes in HC110 1:30 rather than 8 min. Or a digital negative with an ugly curve that resembles an f.
Forget the specialist papers and print on Epson semi-matte paper for a start.
Paper is the one great weakness on Argyrotype. Computer paper sucks in plenty of solution and does not bleed. If that works, you'll have enough drive left to search a decent cotton paper.

[Darryl Baird]

Cranes Cover 90 lb., Cranes Text (wove), and Arches Platine yield good results with argyrotype.

[kmack]

Have you tried using distilled water for the initial clearing bath? I had similar problems when using my tap water.

[PViapiano]

Argyrotype is one of the most difficult of the alt processes to really get a handle on, but Sam Wang made a suggestion that made all the difference for me. Mix the solution with distilled water 1:1 just before you coat your paper.

As Christopher mentioned above, paper is the great bugaboo of this process as well.

Distilled water for clearing, with maybe a pinch of citric acid, and make sure you don't clear for too long...then tone the print before the fix (makes a world of difference...selenium in a very, very weak dilution works well), and then fix in 2% sodium thiosulphate (hypo).

Another thing that works well is to humidify the exposed print above a teakettle for 30-60 seconds before clearing, and make sure there is no direct light hitting it when you do it.

[Darryl Baird]

another vote for distilled water, plus a brush without metal ferule... which tends to interact with the silver oxide in the formula

[mystq3]

I appreciate the advice!

I guess I'll update some information. As far as paper is concerned, the LANA is what Bostick and Sullivan recommend, and BFK is what Christina Anderson (http://www.christinazanderson.com/) told me is what she uses for the process. However, as soon as the roads clear up from all the snow we got, I'll go grab some Arches.

For coating, I always use either a Hake brush (a unique brush for each process to avoid contamination), or a coating rod. So I'm confident I can rule that out of the issues, but I will try the 1:1 coating solution with distilled water.

I had, however, been using the tap for my initial wash. I'm preparing a distilled water bath with citric acid, and will post the results as soon as I finish that.

As far as toning, I don't have any Selenium, but I do have some Gold toner with ammonium thiocyanite that I use for Salt prints, I've heard this works well for Argyrotypes (but then I heard a lot before now, so...).

[Darryl Baird]

I use a little distilled water (dipping my brush lightly) to extend the coating if I don't get it past my pencil lines, retracing my strokes over the entire sheet to keep the emulsion even. I'd watch the selenium toner as it tends to bleach out argyrotype images. It needs to be a VERY low dilution. I avoid it in general because I don't like the color. Gold is ok.

[mystq3]

Alright! After many more hours in the dark, I think I have come through with something! Although I have some work ahead of me yet, I have gone through several trials and have solved a few issues. Thanks all for the advice, and feel free to continue lending your knowledge... I'm never above accepting some more seasoned guidance.

The distilled water did help improve my prints, however it did not solve my big problems. My choices of paper, however, made a world of difference. I tried SEVERAL papers: LANA, Kitakata, Arches Plantine, BFK...

BFK and LANA were all but completely useless. Kitakata worked quite well, but the wet strength couldn't hold up. The Plantine was an improvement, but I have not yet been able to get consistently desirable results.

Quite annoyingly, what has thus far yielded a beautiful print was WAUSAU 32lb Stationary (the closest thing I could find to Cranes locally). I bought this paper for my Calotype Negatives and decided to give it a try.

I also found that applying a saturated coat of the emulsion improved the print dramatically, despite directions dictating amounts per size of print.

So, that's where I am so far.. the only paper that works well for me is the $0.10 per sheet paper I picked up at Target... meanwhile my $6.00 Plantine isn't quite doing the trick...

[cjbroadbent]

I'm repeating myself. But just to reduce the variables, do try ink-jet paper like Epson Archival Matte or Arches Soft Cotton. They always work because they are built to absorb ink in a stable fashion. As I said before, once ink-jet paper gives stable results you can start looking for a real rag paper.

[mystq3]

I'm repeating myself. But just to reduce the variables, do try ink-jet paper like Epson Archival Matte or Arches Soft Cotton. They always work because they are built to absorb ink in a stable fashion. As I said before, once ink-jet paper gives stable results you can start looking for a real rag paper.

Sorry, I got caught up in it and forgot this one! I will surely do this next! I have some double sided photo matte paper that should hold up well in the baths.

[cjbroadbent]

Also, as sombody else mentioned, a 45sec, weak (one cap to 2 liters), selenium bath before the fix does wonders to the shadows.

[mystq3]

Also, as sombody else mentioned, a 45sec, weak (one cap to 2 liters), selenium bath before the fix does wonders to the shadows.

For Selenium, would this be what you're talking about??

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464486-Kodak-Rapid-Selenium-Toner-1-Quart?sc=24100

[cjbroadbent]

For Selenium, would this be what you're talking about??

http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1464486-Kodak-Rapid-Selenium-Toner-1-Quart?sc=24100
That's it.

[Darryl Baird]

you can order directly from Crane

kid finish ecru
http://www.crane.com/stationery/boxed-stationery/letter-stationery/LetterWritingStationery?PLV

cover - natural white
http://www.crane.com/pages/productdetail.aspx?pid=21467