Santa Fe & Taos Christmas Week

[Ivan J. Eberle]

LF and luminaries? What else is a must-see for LF? Was in SE Utah last Oct, but it's been 25 years since I've been to NM in Winter. Driving a 4WD from Central California, how much of the 4-Corners area will likely accessible for side trips to pictographs/petroglyphs, kivas, cliff dwellings? Thanks!

[Thebes]

So you know, at least up in Taos luminarias are a kind of public fire at a celebration. The paper bags with candles as a decoration are farolitos. I can't say if this terminology is truly correct but locals here believe it is.

You should probably not plan on driving west to the 4 corners from Taos, it might or might not be possible to cross the Brazos on hwy-64 west of Taos. That highway is often closed west of Tres Piedras after snows in winter and can remain closed much of the winter. Hwy-285 occasionally closes north of Tres Piedras for short periods, but is almost always open to the south. 522 is normally open to the north of Taos up through Questa and into Colorado. NM68 from Taos to SF is almost always passable but can get icy in the gorge, especially after dark, late night travel is thick with drunks.

Petroglyphs.... there is a National Monument on the west side of Abq, about 3 1/2 hours drive from Taos in good weather.

Hard to say whats "must see". If you can get to the Taos Pueblo on xmas eve they have a spectacular night-time procession of the virgin ritual, probably can not photograph it without prior arrangements but culturally I would recommend it to all visitors. The gorge bridge is always a popular destination as is the pueblo (most normal days you can get a camera permit but you do need one). Taos Ski Valley and surrounding mountains are nice after a snow. There is the architecture of town, of course. Almost any road through the Sangre de Cristos, especially the smaller forest service roads (many unplowed, conditions vary daily)- its hard to not find something beautiful up those. The Gorge is pretty after a snow and there is good access into the BLM rec area from Pilar. There is also decent access to the gorge bottom from Arroyo Hondo at Black Rock hot springs, and you can walk down from the top at Stage Coach (Manby) hot springs (access off 64 then down Tune drive) as well.

Cliff dwellings and kivas... around here the kivas are still active and sacred. There is Chaco Canyon which is quite a long drive from Taos, and Mesa Verde in Colorado which might be an easier drive but its still more than a day trip. There are a number of smaller sites too but they are not near Taos and I don't know them.

Santa Fe... I can't help so much around there but you should check out Photo Eye gallery and bookstore, and the Andrew Smith Gallery is very worth stopping into too.

One last note, weather here is pretty erratic, you might get none or you might find roads nearly impassable, and prior reports are not really accurate. Have blankets, etc in your car and be prepared to change your plans with the weather.

[Nathan Potter]

Depending on your photographic interests the Toas general area is breathtaking in winter.

The weather will be uncertain but generally most main roads are OK since skiers abound in the Taos area. I like the little village of Aroyo Seco just north of Taos where there is usually a display of farolitos (luminarias). I also like two older spanish towns south of Santa Fe, Los Cerrillos and the old coal town of Madrid. If you can get into Tent Rocks natural area off I 25 south of Santa Fe the white sandstone monoliths are most interesting up in the box canyons. In decent weather run the high road from Taos to Santa Fe and do some photography in the old spanish villages of Las Trampas, Truchas and Chimayo, especially the churches.

If you're daring and can cross the Sangre de Cristos the town of Mora and certainly the adobe mill and church at La Cueva are splendid.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[John Kasaian]

LF and luminaries? What else is a must-see for LF? Was in SE Utah last Oct, but it's been 25 years since I've been to NM in Winter. Driving a 4WD from Central California, how much of the 4-Corners area will likely accessible for side trips to pictographs/petroglyphs, kivas, cliff dwellings? Thanks!

I spent Christmas in Santa Fe many years ago---it is something I'll always remember:D There will be photo opportunities everywhere you look. I hope you have great weather!
Drinks at La Fonda on Christmas Eve are kind of a tradition in between the Christmas Concert and midnight Mass at the Cathederal. The farolitos are everywhere in the plaza, but I noticed that some guy with a spray bottle of wates snuffs 'em out 'round 11:00PM.
For night photography options you may want to take the funicular up to Scandia Pk above Elbow-turkey(SP?) There is also the famous "Enchanted Circle" departing from Taos and if the roads are dry there is lots of spectacular scenery to be had.

[tgtaylor]

The best taco's I ever had were in Santa Fe. Leaving Albuquerque everyone said to be sure to stop and get tacos in Santa Fe. Boy were they right. Not only were they the best but they were huge and cheap - like a dozen for a $1 or something like that. That was back in the early '70's. I wish I was into photography back then.

I took flying lessons In Albuquerque ($20/hour) and flew Cessna 150's and Cherokee's all around the the area. I drove up to visit a friend in Salt lake city who owned a Comanche and flew it into Salt Lake International. I had a great time in that whole area back then.

[John Kasaian]

Tomasita's in Santa Fe(at the old AT&SF railroad depot)has great mexican food! very time I've been to Santa Fe I make the "pilgrimage";) WHile waiting for yor table they serve a sampler of salsa so you'll know which one to order with your meal.:D

[al olson]

Ivan,

Your mobility around Taos and the 4 Corners area this time of year is dependent on the weather. Last year at Thanksgiving I had two feet of snow on my roof. Including the three previous winters, the snow amounts have been H. The winter of 1007-08 was so bad that travel over the 54 miles between Pagosa Springs and Durango took 2-3 hours for several months because of the slick and icy roads.

You may be in luck this year as we have only has a few dustings so there are only traces of snow on the shaded sides of the houses. Thebes is correct however about US 64 over the Brazos. New Mexico does not like to plow this highway so it is passable only if there is no snow accumulation.

The Taos Pueblo mentioned by Thebes is an interesting experience. They have placed huge stacks of pyres maybe 10 to 15 feet high. As part of the ceremony they ignite these stacks of wood. The smoke is incredible. Then there is the little parade that goes through the pueblo with the men firing their shotguns into the air. I did see photographers there (they appeared to be with news media) but I believe it would be wise to see about getting a permit. I know that a permit for a nominal fee is required for photography under normal circumstances.

As far as quality photo galleries are concerned there is also Verve in Santa Fe and there is the Open Shutter in Durango. Chaco Canyon is 60 miles from the nearest hotel. The road is rather primitive and heavily washboarded. Best is if you are able to camp at the campground.

If you are considering the 4 Corners area in Colorado, you will likely want to take US 84 north to US 160. Take US 64 from Taos to US 285 (you can continue on crossing the Brazos to US 84 if there is no snow), otherwise, US 285 north to Antonito. Take 17 west (Colorado provides good maintenance on the mountain roads) to Chama and US 84 north to US 160. US 160 passes through Pagosa Springs, Durango, and Cortez.

If you happen to pass through Antonito take a look at the two-towered castle that some wacko has made out of beer cans, hubcaps, and whatever.

Traveling north on US 84 there is Abiquiu which has the Georgia O'Keefe home, but you have to have reservations to take the tour. A little farther north is the Ghost Ranch where GO had a cabin (not open to tourists, but the Ghost Ranch is).

The Durango Silverton Scenic Railroad operates a winter schedule that goes from Durango to the Cascades, about half way to Silverton but still very scenic. Durango gets less snow, usually, from what we get in Pagosa. However, at that time of the year, most of the side roads into the gulches and up into the mountains will be impassable.

If you ski there is world class powder at the Wolf Creek Ski Area. For all else it is pretty much as been described.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

What a terrific resource this is whenever traveling somewhere unfamiliar!

Just a dusting? We've gotten 10' already in the Sierra. I'll be bringing XC skiis and snowshoes if only for the CA part of my trip. Any suggestions for where there might be enough wilderness scenery + snow in N. Central NM or SW Colorado, to make photography worthwhile?

[Nathan Potter]

If you're headed to the Taos area, day tips north are quite possible. Two areas I really like in CO are Great Dunes Nat. Park and the Cumbres Pass road that connects Antonito CO to Chama NM. You could also stay overnite in Alamosa CO where Great Dunes is only about 30 mi. NE. From Alamosa. The trip up the Rio Grande to Creede is nice but the old mine ruins just n. of the town of Creede is more than spectacular. I've driven right up to the Creede mine area in winter with my 4 runner without difficulty.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[al olson]

What a terrific resource this is whenever traveling somewhere unfamiliar!

Just a dusting? We've gotten 10' already in the Sierra. I'll be bringing XC skiis and snowshoes if only for the CA part of my trip. Any suggestions for where there might be enough wilderness scenery + snow in N. Central NM or SW Colorado, to make photography worthwhile?

Simply because we haven't had significant snow fall this year does not mean that there won't be snow on the ground at my 7500' location by Christmas. There is snow at the higher elevations as I view the Divide which curves around from the north to the east of me.

We will have snow this winter. It is only a question of when and how much. Snow is predicted for this Wednesday and Thursday. For the past three winters I have had over 4' of compacted snow in my yard come April.

If you want scenery with snow I would recommend Wolf Creek Pass. The ski area has been operating for several weeks. The basin to the east of the ski area is very photogenic. I would also suggest Brazos Pass. Even though it may be closed it is usually possible to drive up the pass a ways until you reach the blockage.

If there is insufficient snow, I would recommend taking a trip from Del Norte 18 miles south to Summitville. Summitville is an abandoned ghost town (I have some Summitville photos on my web site) with a number of buildings still standing (barely). It once was an active mining area and now it is a Super Fund Site. The road does not get plowed during the winter and I would not like to be stranded there when the snow begins to fall so do a weather check before starting out. Summitville has its own weather observation station on the NOAA site.

Cheers,

[winterclock]

Been a while since I was there last (15 yrs), but the ski area at SF offers some fantastic opportunities both on the drive up and in the back country. If you snowshoe there is a path on the north side of the parking lot that after a quarter mile or so meets the ridge north of the ski area, follow the fence to the right for some fantastic mountain vistas.

[Jan Pietrzak]

Ivan,

Well it all started on thursday snow showers, friday morning 'snow showers' turned into
16 to 20 inches of snow in Eldorado. Eldorado you say 10 miles or so from the Plaza due south. Lots of snow, lots of ice, and a lot of drivers with 4 wheel drive, that think that they can drive, guess again.

Ivan I would think that by Christmas most of this will be gone. But the beany boy say that we should get some more in the next week and yes they did say 'Snow Showers'.

So welcome to Northern New Mexico

Jan Pietrzak
I think I am going to go and dig the car out now

[al olson]

Ivan,

We have had light, but consistent, snow showers since last Wednesday with an accumulation of about 6-7 inches of very fine crystals. Not too deep. :) But deep enough. I think I mentioned in a prior post that I live at 7500'.

More is predicted continuing through next Thursday. The downside is that for tomorrow they are predicting 90% chance of rain. Could get pretty nasty with a lot of slick roads. Especially with the snows on the days following.

Wolf Creek is reporting 54" of base at the summit with 110" YTD. Wolf Creek Ski Area is renowned for its powder.

Be careful and aware of avalanche dangers. The top of the pass is safe and excellent for snowshoeing and snowmobiling.

[al olson]

Let us know, Ivan, how the trip went. Who's advice did you take?

If you were around for the New Year's we had a pretty good dump (12") here (Pagosa) on Wednesday and Thursday. That added to the rain and snow that fell from the 15th to Christmas Eve. For those nine days the sky was so dark that I had to turn on the lights in the house. Dark sky and bad visibility doesn't make good photography. Maybe it was better around Taos.