Microswitch shutter sync solution for a Packard shutter

[Jay Decker]

For those considering retrofit a shutter sync on a Packard shutter, here are the problems I encounter and how I solved them...

1) Objectives: a) achieve strobe sync a 5-inch Packard shutter for my 8x10 studio camera using Pocket Wizards, b) high reliability, and c) clean installation.

5-inch diameter Packard shutter, with microswitch, and Pocket Wizard:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7752.jpg


2) Microswitch Force: most common snap action microswitches require more force that the Packard shutter can readily supply. I found a low force microswitch, which works great, but does not have a actuating lever. So, made an actuating level for the low force microswitch using a actuating lever from a common snap action microswitch.

Common snap action microswitches:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7673.jpg


Low force microswitch with a home made actuation lever assembly:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7726.jpg


Completed installation inside an 8x10 studio camera:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7775.jpg

[Jay Decker]

3) External Connection: Pocket Wizards use a 1/8-inch mono audio connectors. I mounted an inline jack in the face of my studio camera.

1/8-inch mono inline jack:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7778.jpg


Complete external sync connection:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7759.jpg


Pocket Wizard connected to camera during testing:


http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7770.jpg

[Jay Decker]

4) Clean Installation - Pneumatic Bulkhead Fitting: my 8x10 studio camera was built in the 1920 and is in great condition. However, the previous shutter installation was less than clean. Here's how I made a bulkhead fitting for my shutter installation...

Bulkhead fitting assembly:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7747.jpg


Final Bulkhead assembly configuration:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7750.jpg


Installed bulkhead fitting:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7758.jpg


Completed installation:

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/IMG_7768.jpg

[Brian C. Miller]

Very good! I've just been holding the shutter open and popping the flash manually.

[Keith Pitman]

Somehow this seems to fly in the face of using that old camera and old lens!

[Brian C. Miller]

Oh, come on, Keith, next you'll be saying not to add servos to the movements and focusing! :D

I can't remember where I read it, but in the late 1800's someone made a remark about an automatic camera that would go and make pretty photographs by the riverbank all on its own. Now we have the technology to do it! Let us realize the vision of our predecesors! Just need to keep the brass polished and the steam engine fired up...

;)

[Jim Galli]

Oh, come on, Keith, next you'll be saying not to add servos to the movements and focusing! :D

I can't remember where I read it, but in the late 1800's someone made a remark about an automatic camera that would go and make pretty photographs by the riverbank all on its own. Now we have the technology to do it! Let us realize the vision of our predecesors! Just need to keep the brass polished and the steam engine fired up...

;)

Servo Shmervo. We've got linear encoder and stepper motor drive focusing. I like it Jay! Well done.

[Jay Decker]

Somehow this seems to fly in the face of using that old camera and old lens!

I appreciated your perspective... when photographing I prefer to caress a wood camera, like this Century Universal or a Kodak 2D camera, rather than a metal and plastic camera. And, I do enjoy repairing and restoring my old wood cameras to good working order. But, for me, there are two realities that keep me from maintaining them in a museum/historically accurate configuration: 1) the cameras and lenses were goods manufactured in quantity and there are still a lot of them in the world today, and while it might not be saying much, 2) I use these cameras and lenses to make the best possible photographs that I am capable of making with them.

With this good old camera's new lighting control capability, I'll be able to use it with about 20 old lenses that have optical signatures with character and hopefully make technically better images... though I'd be better off working on what I put in front of the camera and the creativity used to capture the image on film or collodion...

[Jay Decker]

Had to test out my Rube Goldberg shutter contraption last night...

http://webpages.charter.net/monkeytumble/lensboards/Scan-101206-0001.jpg

Bedtime for Lauren and Big Bear
Camera: 8x10 Century Universal
Lens: Dallmeyer 3B @ f/11
Film: 8x10 FP4+
Developer: XTOL 1:1

[Brian C. Miller]

Nice! One umbrella, right?

[Denis Pleic]

Jay,

Congrats on the job well done. It works, and that's what's most important, isn't it?

However, I think you've complicated the things unnecessarily. I did a much simpler solution - I followed Bob Fowler's instructions and experience, as explained on his web site HERE (http://mysite.verizon.net/fowler/photo/packard3.htm) - and made mine even simpler. I made a Packard "box", which I can use with barrel lenses mounted on Speed Graphic lensboards - and mount them on my B&J Watson 5x7 camera...

The photos of my solution are attached.

Instead of a microswitch like you (overkill), or a piece of brass (like Bob in the link above did), I used a medium size paper clip :)
Much cheaper and just as reliable and usable... see attached photos.
For the contact I used a sync contact from a dead camera - from my parts bin :)

I must admit i enjoy making these gadgets as much as I enjoy taking photos (maybe even more....) ;)

[Sevo]

A insulated brass spring does the job nicely - that is the way it was generally done on originally synced shutters. On focal plane shutters, where touching the cloth may cause tear and wear, I've been successful glueing tiny Nd magnets to the first curtain rail to actuate a micro Reed relais.

[Jay Decker]

However, I think you've complicated the things unnecessarily.

You're right, but I was educated as an engineer and over complicating things is a consequence of that personality defect. :D


I did a much simpler solution - I followed Bob Fowler's instructions and experience, as explained on his web site HERE (http://mysite.verizon.net/fowler/photo/packard3.htm) - and made mine even simpler.

I examined Bob Fowler's website after purchasing a large Packard shutter. The Packard shutter that I have will not readily allow the use of the same solution that you and Bob use so successfully. The shutter I have is an instantaneous shutter. As a consequence of the shutter having an instantaneous mode, the switch, whatever kind is used, needs to fire the flash in the middle of the piston's stroke and without unintentional firing the flash again before the shutter closes. So, putting a contact at the top of the pistons stroke was not an option for this Packard shutter.

[Jay Decker]

Nice! One umbrella, right?

Yup! One umbrella... and a reflector.

[jp]

Thanks for the writeup! I just ordered that switch so I can do the same. I'll probably use a gold-plated to headphone connector to match the brass on the camera though. I've got a bunch of different arms from large relays I've taken apart to use as a lever.

[jp]

Jay, I've got the microswitch now. It appears to sensitive enough that I can use it without a lever. Just putting the switch above the piston and letting the piston bump the switch when it reaches peak seems to be working just fine. Is there any good reason to use a lever?

The exact switch Jay used is available on ebay for a couple of dollars; Item 120651669165

[Jay Decker]

Jay, I've got the microswitch now. It appears to sensitive enough that I can use it without a lever. Just putting the switch above the piston and letting the piston bump the switch when it reaches peak seems to be working just fine. Is there any good reason to use a lever?

My particular Packard shutter has an "instantaneous mode" and the shutter aperture is completely open when the piston in the middle of its vertical stroke and shutter aperture is completely closed when the piston is at the top of its stroke. I want to use the instantaneous mode with flash sync, so a lever is needed to close the switch when the piston was in middle of its movement. Additionally, the lever needs to keep the switch closed reliably until the top of the piston moved down past the lever, so that the switch would not open and then close again, which result in the Pocket Wizard firing the strobe again. If I did not have the instantaneous mode Packard shutter, I would have put the switch on top as you described, or Denis Pleic's solution described above.

Make sense?

[Harold_4074]

... I was educated as an engineer and over complicating things is a consequence of that personality defect.

It might have been worse--you could be an engineering physicist, and built something like this.

I wanted a remote control for a Packard shutter, with a time exposure more, a pre-exposure delay, and flash sync (for starters, anyway). Since the picture was made, I have added a couple of humongous electrolytics (planned for originally, but it worked without them) and a tap-in point for a solenoid-based cable release pusher.

Oh, yes--there is also an auxiliary relay to tug a self-portrait focusing target out of the way at the beginning of the pre-exposure delay.

By the way, I think that your sync solution is simple and elegant, and I'm not saying that just because I came up with essentially the same idea myself :D

[Jim Michael]

A debounce circuit (http://www.labbookpages.co.uk/electronics/debounce.html)might help prevent multiple firings.