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Michael Cullen
3-Nov-2010, 17:20
Thinking about doing this for a bit of fun, but not really looking to spend more than about a hundred (£) doing it; I was looking at either the 95 or even something like the 800, as the 110s seem to be relatively expensive these days.

Just out of interest, are there any other Polaroid cameras (rollfilm or packfilm) which can cover the entire 4x5 negative? Plastic cameras included, as long as the lenses have reasonable resolving power.

Kuzano
3-Nov-2010, 20:52
I've got about a half dozen 110, 110A&B and a 120, not to mention a few 95's. I stalked these intently on eBay for a short while, and never paid over $65 for a Polaroid 110 with the Rodenstock Ysarex 127 lens shutter in working condition. You have to be serious about rounding these up.

None of the Polaroid's in these series will actually cover a full 4X5 negative if you try to use the stock film plane location. You have to move the film plane back far enough with extra stock to allow the angle of the lens to cross over to full 4X5 coverage. You may already know this, but just in case.....

Then, you must make all the requisite modifications to the front standard/rails to compensate if you plan to use the rangefinder. Frankly working the camera over to use the rangefinder is a severe PITA, which is why you often find these conversions costing $1000 and up.

If I continue to pursue the Polaroid 4X5 conversion, it will not be as a hand holdable rangefinder. It may be as a hand holdable infinity focus system, or Ground Glass View.

I calculate the film plane will have to be moved back well over one inch to achieve coverage on a full 4X5 sheet of film, or a double film holder or full Fuji Quickload frame size. At that point a huge amount of work becomes necessary to relocate or calibrate the stock rangefinder.

I'm actually toying with a body design that simply uses a boxish frame and mounting the bellows, door, front standard and rails. This would be a rectangular arrangement with a Ground Glass back and hood, out of which the door pops and unfolds. Somewhat smaller than the routine conversions that are currently in vogue.

Michael Cullen
3-Nov-2010, 22:05
Well the prices don't seem too bad at the moment (there's even a 95 for $10), but the problem is postage to the UK is around $40-50, mainly due to the weight of the rear internals (pressure plate, spools, etc).

I'm thinking about using a Kodak 3A Folding Camera now as the base, and building a sheet back, essentially using the 3A as a miniature view camera. While the 170mm lens won't give me as wide a field of view as the 127mm or 130mm 110/95 lenses would, it should still cover 4x5 by the time I've mounted the DIY spring back. Some models of the 3A apparently offer minor movements as well, which could be nice. Only downside seems to be the higher f-stop of the lens. They're fairly common in Europe, and they're a lot lighter, which means shipping is a LOT lower than for the Polaroids.

Anyone have any idea of the quality of the 3A lenses?

Frank Petronio
3-Nov-2010, 23:25
No idea about the 3A but I think Kuzano and you might be onto something. I've had two 110 conversions and at the end of the day I think their Rangefinders go out wack too easily and their bulk is only slightly less than an inexpensive but more rugged and versatile Crown Graphic.

But by using the Polaroid front end, and a nice Graflock back, joined by a simple wooden box - well now you have a very compact view camera.

Of course a Crown will fold up with a full-sized lens attached and your uber compact probably won't. And unlike any of the conversions, it is easy to change lenses, even get limited movements.... so in the end... I bet the Crown still wins.

vinny
4-Nov-2010, 03:25
what sucks about 110's on the used market (ebay) is their real condition vs. described condition. I got two recently which had lots of light leaks even though I emailed the sellers and described to them how to check for light leaks. When they say the shutter fires at all speeds, well they don't really mean at ALL speeds, just the fast ones. I haven't seen any conversions where the film plane had to be set back an inch?

Michael Cullen
4-Nov-2010, 15:59
what sucks about 110's on the used market (ebay) is their real condition vs. described condition. I got two recently which had lots of light leaks even though I emailed the sellers and described to them how to check for light leaks. When they say the shutter fires at all speeds, well they don't really mean at ALL speeds, just the fast ones. I haven't seen any conversions where the film plane had to be set back an inch?

I'm fairly certain that in the majority of conversions the film plane is set back from the standard rollfilm plane, due to the fact that the spring back is mounted ON the body, rather than inside it, due to the fact that when a DD is inserted, its width would prevent it from sliding between the edges of the body. Therefore, it ends up being roughly - as Kuzano says - an inch farther back when compared to the standard film position, which is why you have to adjust the front standard stop.

By using a 95A or a Kodak 3A Autographic, however, there's no rangefinder anyway, which means it doesn't require additional modification, and focussing would done the same way as the original camera - by zone focussing - but with the additional option of composing on the ground glass from critical or low DOF shots.

Now to source an appropriate donor camera!

patrickjames
4-Nov-2010, 19:51
There are models that use the same mounting holes for the focussing assembly, for example the 800 and the 150. One of my 45 conversions uses an 800 body, a 110a standard and a 900 rangefinder along with a 135mm Schneider lens. Those were just the parts I had available at the time I made it. As far as weight goes, the ones I have done are very light. I don't know why some of the conversions I see are done the way they are. Way more material can be removed from the body. Anyway, they are a lot of fun to use and you can't argue with the negative size. Good luck.

Drew Bedo
6-Nov-2010, 06:51
Seriously:

"ACID" brand cigars come in a finger jointed mahogany box thet is substantial. The wood is un-marked. All company logos and markings are gummed labels. I have removed the lables (not the easiest thing) and re-varnished the wood as a gift box at times. Works great! I have often thought of making a fixed infinity focus camera out of one of these cigar boxes.

Michael Cullen
22-Nov-2010, 04:39
I managed to find a Polaroid Land Camera Model 160 (Yashica-made variant of the 150) for £18 over here, and so far I've gotten the back door off and removed the unnecessary internals :-)

Looks like the conversion should be fairly straightforward, as the rangefinder couples to the sliding base, not the front standard itself, and therefore the front standard can be slid back farther to correct infinity focus after the film plane is moved backwards during the conversion.

bsimison
22-Nov-2010, 04:58
I agree with Frank -- you're better off with a Crown or Speed Graphic. I borrowed a good Polaroid conversion and was impressed with the craftsmanship, but the price you pay for the privilege just wasn't worth it. With a Crown or Speed, you get interchangeable lenses, some movements, and much sturdier construction for a *lot* less money and a little more weight. And if you get one with the side-mounted Kalart, you can calibrate the rangefinder to just about any lens.

Michael Cullen
22-Nov-2010, 05:23
but the price you pay for the privilege just wasn't worth it. With a Crown or Speed, you get interchangeable lenses, some movements, and much sturdier construction for a *lot* less money and a little more weight.

Well the idea is that this costs me £18 + a few pieces of MDF and second hand film holders. If you can show me a press camera that costs that much... :-P

bsimison
22-Nov-2010, 05:48
Well the idea is that this costs me £18 + a few pieces of MDF and second hand film holders. If you can show me a press camera that costs that much... :-P

...and assuming your time is free, then yes -- it's a bargain. :-)

Gordon Flodders
22-Nov-2010, 14:14
I agree with Frank -- you're better off with a Crown or Speed Graphic. I borrowed a good Polaroid conversion and was impressed with the craftsmanship, but the price you pay for the privilege just wasn't worth it. With a Crown or Speed, you get interchangeable lenses, some movements, and much sturdier construction for a *lot* less money and a little more weight. And if you get one with the side-mounted Kalart, you can calibrate the rangefinder to just about any lens.

A couple of points to note: The old Graphic is rather clumsy and awkward compared to the much faster and lighter converted Polaroid. The thing I hate most about the 'Speed' is the side mounted Kalart with peepholes. After sorting the focus you then have to look through a less than decent viewfinder before finally taking the shot.

The Polaroid has a far better, bigger, brightline (parallax corrected too) finder that is really fast and easy. None of my three converted Polaroid's finders have ever gone out of 'whack'. Remember it's a camera not a football and the price you pay is relative to whoever does the conversion!

GF.

jnantz
22-Nov-2010, 15:32
I'm thinking about using a Kodak 3A Folding Camera now as the base, and building a sheet back, essentially using the 3A as a miniature view camera. While the 170mm lens won't give me as wide a field of view as the 127mm or 130mm 110/95 lenses would, it should still cover 4x5 by the time I've mounted the DIY spring back. Some models of the 3A apparently offer minor movements as well, which could be nice. Only downside seems to be the higher f-stop of the lens. They're fairly common in Europe, and they're a lot lighter, which means shipping is a LOT lower than for the Polaroids.

Anyone have any idea of the quality of the 3A lenses?


michael

i have seen some 3a's box cameras WITH ground glass and film holders ..
they weren't kodak's though ...
the lenses on the kodak folders are sometimes anastigmatic lenses,
somtimes a choked down meniscus ...
i have an autographic, and instructions show the accessories which
include a ground glass and film / plate holders ..

have fun

john