A couple of simple Jobo E6 questions

[numnutz]

A couple of (hopefully) simple E6 Jobo questions:

When I purchased my 10 x 8 Deardorff included in the package was a box of 50 sheets Fuji Velvia 100. Before putting it into the freezer I loaded up 3 Film holders. I have a sudden urge to expose these pointing the camera at 'Autumn Colours'. I will be processing these myself in a Jobo CPP 4111 using a couple of 4531 drums. I will be using a Tetenal 3 bath Kit probably mixing up the complete 1 litre kit.

How much chemistry should I use (for two 10 x 8 sheets at a time)?
Should I pre-soak? and if so for approximately how long?
After the first developer how long should I wash and with how much water and changes?
After the second developer how long should I wash and with how much water and changes?

I have used the processor to process 10 x 8 Monochrome and have had good results but I found when I empty the stop bath the solution is somewhat discoloured with the Pyro developer indicating developer carry over. Even when I used a 200ml wash for about 30 seconds before the stop I got some slight discolouration.

I have processed E6 before but it was around 30 years ago - I don't remember having to pre-wash/soak. But that was with 6-bath Kodak E6.

Hope you can help

nn :)

[gari beet]

Hi there, I would think the drum will have amounts printed on them, but for context I use 250ml for 4-6 5x4 sheets, 2 10X8s would be 8 sheets of 5x4 in area. If you are doing them as single sheets I would think 300ml would cover and you should be able to re-use the chemistry once without worrying about exhaustion.
I do 3-4, 30sec washes between each bath, 2/300ml a shot. It's not a huge issue to carry some of the chem into the next bath, going backwards is the real issue.
I don't pre-soak personally, though I do pre heat the drum, leaving it rotating in the processor while I am finishing sorting wash bottles etc. I don't get issues with uneven development but alot of folks on here do pre-soak. Try both ways and see what you think.

To be honest I find E6 little different to Mono processing. time and temp are different but the same principals apply, have everything ready and stick to your times etc.

Let us know how you get on, considering how excited I get when I open the drum with 5x4 I would love to be there when you give birth to a 10x8 sheet of Velvia. I imagine I would be barely able to contain myself:D

Gari

[Collas]

I use a CPP-2 for my 35mm and 5x4. The instructions from Job and Tetenal are confusing and seem to contradict each other. The official booklet that comes with the 1 litre packs is a little short on detail, and buries some of the important caveats in the text, so study carefully. I've also downloaded the instructions from Jobo, and although they provide much more detail (such as not pouring the final Stabiliser bath into the film drum whilst it's connected to the processor as it will cause problems with the First Developer the next time you use the machine - something that hasn't caused me any grief), again the details are confusing.

According to the printed instructions, I'm pre-warming the tank (either a 2521 or a 2523) for at least five minutes without a pre-soak at 39ºC. The booklet also says to run the FD for seven minutes.

I'm getting good results, but is there a definitive answer to what temperature and for how long should the film (Fuji Velvia 100F) be processed for?

The link I found for the processors and the Tetenal chemicals is:

http://www.jobo.com/jobo_service_analog/us_analog/index.html

Nick

[numnutz]

Thanks for your observations and help...

nn :)

[Eugen Mezei]

I will be processing these myself in a Jobo CPP 4111 using a couple of 4531 drums.

I got a CPP 4111 a couple of years ago and I cant use it as I dont get the settings on it. (I have a CPE-2, much easier to understand and the manual is avaible online.)
Does anyone have a manual for this processor?