Framing--silve gelatine vs digital papers

[Raymond Bleesz]

For years, I have been framing my gelatine prints to standard sized frames--because the paper was sized "normal", ie 8x10, 11x14, 16x20, 20x24---My frame sizes accomodated those dimentions rather well.

However, I'm rather "confused" with today's digital sized papers. I have had my frames made by a custom framer--typically 14x18, 16x20, 20x24, 22x26 or 8 for my gelatine prints. These frames sizes seem "out of place, out of mind" with the digital paper sizes of 11x17, 13x19 (for the most part).

I guess I am asking, what frame sizes typically do most of you use for the digital papers we now have being turned out by, say, an Epson 3800. The proportions are now elongated which is now challenging my prior work methods in matting & framing.

Your insight would be helpful as I will have to make adjustments with my custom framer.

Thank you

[Jim collum]

i haven't noticed a problem.. i'm usually shooting to a specific aspect ratio.. and then i print on the inkjet paper the size that's appropriate (1:1, 4:3). I then trim and dry mount as I would a silver print

[jim kitchen]

Dear Raymond,

As Jim mentioned, your negative's aspect ratio is your constant... :)

Your text seems to indicate that you scan your negatives as I do, and many others, and because of that fact, I am never attentive to the digital paper size, since I do not crop my negatives to fit any digital paper, or any pre-made digital frame. Whether you intend to buy a frame that fits the digital paper and crop your negative, then logic dictates you do so, but if I might suggest, I would continue to size your print to your desired width or height, and continue to prepare your frames to your current printing and framing standards, once you trim the excess paper.

I do not print my own files, but I prepare a matched file for a select printer to print, where they simply push my file through their printer's RIP, and trim the excess paper from the print. Again, I assume that you are scanning your negatives...

jim k

[mrladewig]

Like the others, I print to the aspect ratio, not the paper size. So on 17x22 paper, I print 16X20. The extra paper resides neatly behind the mat.

I have recently done some duraplaq mounts as well and I like that laminate option too.

[jp]

Pay no attention to the paper size (other than not exceeding it or coming too close to the edge)

I use a 16x20 frame for both 8x10 silver prints and 10x15 dslr/printer prints. I just cut different mattes.

[Raymond Bleesz]

Thank you all for your responses---I will have to get a handle on the "aspect ratio" which I will do today, so I can deal with my misunderstanding.

And Jim, you mention "dry mounting" in your post---I have dry mt. my silver gelatine prints for years, but am hesitant re: dry mt digital prints.

Your methods and comments--perhaps from the others?

Again thank you Raymond

[Jim collum]

Thank you all for your responses---I will have to get a handle on the "aspect ratio" which I will do today, so I can deal with my misunderstanding.

And Jim, you mention "dry mounting" in your post---I have dry mt. my silver gelatine prints for years, but am hesitant re: dry mt digital prints.

Your methods and comments--perhaps from the others?

Again thank you Raymond

I'm using the Harmon Baryta paper, which is (was) the same as Ilford Multigrade Fb paper, only with an inkjet substrate... so it mounted the same as a silver print would. Now that they've discontinued it, i need to find a new paper, and test the mounting again. The cotton rag matte paper's i always hinge mount.

jim

[jp]

I found hinge mounting (with the appropriate hinging tape) to be the neater and easier than mounting a print to a board, at least for the sizes I do.

[Raymond Bleesz]

JP From Maine---Question please----if you hinge, which is typically what I would do for gelatine silver prints as well as dry mt to sub matt, then what do you use to attach the digital print to the sub matt & then hinge over the sub matte? ie, if your using 2 matts or perhaps more, then what is your technique for keeping the print stationary on the sub matt?

thank you--Raymond

[jp]

First, I assemble the frame and clean the glass twice. Then set that aside.

Typically, I set up the sandwich of foamcore, photo, and then the cut-out matte or mattes. This is done horizontally on a table top. I get the photo positioned perfectly with the mattes in position. Then I carefully remove the cut-out matte/mattes. I typically use a piece of filmoplast p90 along the top border of the photo to attach the top edge to the foamcore. I don't do any sides or bottom. The paper image is basically suspended from this tape like someone would hang a quilt or tapestry on their wall. Gravity takes care of any expansion/contraction, and there is no concern of uneven lifting or "bubbles" from permanently mounting the photo to anything. Then I reassemble the sandwich , put some tape around the edges, and insert it into the frame.

[Sirius Glass]

I only use wet photography. What is this "digital" of which you speak? Is this a new paper developer from Ilford and available at FreeStyle? :p

Steve