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Pete Suttner
2-Oct-2010, 12:22
I can't seem to find and info on pull processing with this developer. "Normal" development times are long enough to drop development to 5 minutes and I've been successful in doing so for higher contrast stuff. But I'd really like to push it (ok pull it). For example what I like are the contrast levels of pt/pd prints or the maybe work of Mark Citret.

What about dilutions greater than 4:1? Used as a compensating developer? Other?

I guess I'm trying to bolster my confidence before I start mixing chemicals so your experience with this developer would be helpful! Should also mention that I scan and inkjet. There is a whole toolbox in between but I want to get the negative right.

Thanks

Gem Singer
2-Oct-2010, 13:15
At the box speed of the film you choose to use (either 125, or 400):

Place the shadow areas, where you want to maintain a small amount of detail, in Zone III (two stops down from Zone V).

Develop in Pyrocat-HC in glycol (1:1:100) instead of DD-X. You will be less likely to blow out the highlights.

Agitate continually for the first minute. Then, for 15 seconds every two minutes until the time expires.

Total development time should be around 10 minutes for dip-and-dunk, and in a Combi-Plan tank, or in a roll film tank.

With HP-5+ and FP-4+, my negatives are ideal for scanning using that regime.

ki6mf
2-Oct-2010, 19:08
Agree strongly with Gem. To solve the problem you need longer development times with a weaker developer. You will have to test to determine times film speed etc

If you do night photography or have large normal minus scenes both have many too stops between shadows and highlights. For Night photography you may also have reciprocity failure to account for.

The problem to solve is having your developer working on too much contrast. With a short 5 minute development time in full strength developer your shadows probably would not have enough time to develop. Longer times with full strength developer also blow out highlights. Strong agitation also blows out highlights. Remember the highlights will have enough exposure its the shadows you need to work on.

A diluted compensating developer solves your problem.

My results came about after testing D 76 used as a compensating developer (20 % developer 80 % water). Testing with your developer should provide similar results.

Diluted developer and gentle agitation is what is needed to hold back development from the highlights and give the shadows enough time to let the shadows come up.

14 minutes is my normal development time with D 76 diluted 35% developer and 65% water. For compensating and night photography I use 15 minutes development with 2 minutes between agitations. I have found that D76 20 % developer 80 % water works for me. Agitation is almost nonexistent and is 5 seconds max over 2 minutes.

Yes it’s a pain to stand for this long!

For night photos you will have to test for what proper exposure time and F stop are. I use F22 and 5 minutes time duration with 2nd and 3rd shots going 7 minutes, 10 minutes, and 15 minutes. Try and remember what the ambient lighting was like. Over time you will develop a sense on how much time to use based on lighting conditions. It’s virtually impossible to measure Night Scenes with a light meter and trial and error is the only way to get good results.

I use a water bath to set temperature at 68F for developer, stop, fix and hypo wash .

A good step by step guide is on line at http://www.jerryo.com/teaching.htm

Gem Singer
2-Oct-2010, 19:18
Gordon Hutchings has stated that it is virtually impossible to blow out the highlights using a pyro developer.

I find that to be true. That's why I recommended Pyrocat-HC instead of DD-X.

When I formerly used DD-X, it was a challenge not to end up with blown highlights, no matter what the development time, because I chose to give ample exposure to the shadows.