Is it useful to have a light meter for my shooting style?

[Rider]

I have a Minolta light meter (VF I think) (meters flash too). I haven't used recently it because (i) I don't have studio lights and (ii) when shooting landscapes or any other available light I meter with my DSLR.

I am trying to pare down my shooting kit to the essentials. Is the light meter an essential? If I were to get studio lights, would I be able to meter with the DSLR still or is a flash meter useful for that?

[jp]

You can use a DSLR for evaluating studio lights too by taking a shot, viewing histogram, adjusting light output or aperture, repeat until you get it right.

If you really want to get down to metering essentials, sell the minolta, leave the DSLR home, and get a small lightweight analog meter, like the sekonic l208 or something made to go with a leica or old SLR.

[Rider]

jp--The Sekonic L208 seems very basic and costs probably as much as I would get for my Minolta. Why do you recommend it?

[Daniel_Buck]

If you want a very compact meter, try the Voightlander VC-II. I use one on my old folding 6x9cm Zeiss, seems to work quite well, and just sits right in the hotshoe :-) It won't do flash metering though.

http://www.cameraquest.com/voivcmet2.htm

http://www.cameraquest.com/jpg4/vcII-IIa.jpeg

[sully75]

That voightlaender meter is so beautiful, but I can never figure out why light meters cost as much or more than cameras.

[jp]

well, I've got a L208, and it's lightweight, especially compared to old antique metal light meters. And it's small, probably <2". It is plastic, but it's rugged thick plastic, having dropped it a bunch of times. Using it, you just press a button to get a reading which the needle indicates. Then you can spin the big dial to align with the needle and see what shutter/aperture combinations and/or EVs are suitable for that light reading. There is a smaller dial for setting the film speed.

Analog meters weak spot is likely not so much the case, but the precision and miniature electro-mechanical system for operating the meter's needle; the more sensitive they are, the easier they are to damage. This goes for light meters, electrical meters, speedometers, vu meters, etc...

I've got a minolta flash meter too (IV) and a DSLR for metering. The only advantage to those for incident metering is they are backlit, which if you need backlighting, it's probably too dark for existing light. I was suprised how much those minolta flash meters are holding their value.

[Lars Daniel]

I would rather not be without spot metering. YMMV. (I have (and love) the Sekonic 758dr. Expensive, yes, but so great to use.

[domaz]

That voightlaender meter is so beautiful, but I can never figure out why light meters cost as much or more than cameras.

Because they are not consumer-items produced in large quantity. The prices haven't gone down because they are still used by digital/cine users.

[Tony Flora]

That voightlaender meter is so beautiful, but I can never figure out why light meters cost as much or more than cameras.

I have an Agfa Isolette that meter would be perfect for.

[SteveKarr]

The little Voig. meter is only $250 ... is that a lot to have Damn near perfect metering in a tiny, current product?

But I guess when a WHOLE MEAL from McD's is only $2.99 ....





That voightlaender meter is so beautiful, but I can never figure out why light meters cost as much or more than cameras.

[sully75]

I would classify that as a lot of money. That's just me.

[Rider]

The Voigtlander is a lot of money. If it weren't, it would be a nice addition to a Speed Graphic.

But, would you carry a light meter if you have a DSLR with spot metering?

And how about flash meters. Essential for figuring out lighting ratios?

[Daniel_Buck]

That voightlaender meter is so beautiful, but I can never figure out why light meters cost as much or more than cameras.

hu? Not quite sure what you mean that it costs more than the cameras them selves. Where can you find a LF camera for less than $250 USD? Heck, even the most cheapest used ones usually go for more than that, even in bad condition haha!

I'd say $250 is about middle of the road price for light meters. It's not as complex as some meters, but it's compact. I think the pentax spot meter that alot of us use is about $400 brand new.

[Jack Dahlgren]

hu? Not quite sure what you mean that it costs more than the cameras them selves. Where can you find a LF camera for less than $250 USD? Heck, even the most cheapest used ones usually go for more than that, even in bad condition haha!

I'd say $250 is about middle of the road price for light meters. It's not as complex as some meters, but it's compact. I think the pentax spot meter that alot of us use is about $400 brand new.

You can buy almost any 35mm film camera with sophisticated light metering out there for 250. Of course they are used.

[Frank Petronio]

Actually a $60 Nikon N80 35mm camera has a spot meter and more sophisticated metering overall than any of the fancy light meters ;-)

Of course you can get by using a DSLR rather than a meter in the field. It's nicer to have both and nicer to actually know how to use them, especially a spot meter. But for most shots, setting the DSLR ISO and aperture to match your view camera's and watching the DSLR's Histogram will get you 90% there.

If you do your own processing and want to incorporate the Zone System into your workflow so that you get the best possible exposures then you really will want a spot meter. And if you use strobe a lot, you'll really want a flash meter. But until then, shoot away anyways....

For me, I no longer bring a meter along, I prefer the DSLR (and experience). But I'll take a meterless 35mm out and guess pretty well too.

[Rider]

I've found that even though the DSLR has a spot meter, it's too easy to cheat and use matrix metering.

I think I'll keep the flash meter in case I use strobes in the future. These metering devices don't seem to be getting cheaper because they're not mass-produced like DSLRs, so I might as well hang on to it.

I wish I had a nice compact spot meter from a top-notch company, but I wish a lot of things that don't happen, and this is not one of the biggies.

I used to have a Seconic flash meter that doubled as a spot meter, but I traded down to the Minolta because it's smaller and less clumsy in the studio and I did not think about the Zone system back them.

I might as well open a camera shop to have access to all possible gears.

[Daniel_Buck]

You can buy almost any 35mm film camera with sophisticated light metering out there for 250. Of course they are used.

I was not talking 35mm cameras here, I was talking large format :) Save for a few monorails (Cambo and such) just about all large format cameras that I've seen usually go for more than $600 in decent condition.


I've found that even though the DSLR has a spot meter, it's too easy to cheat and use matrix metering.
I don't see how that's "cheating" or why it even matters if something is "cheating" or not? It's a meter, it's not a spot meter so you have to be familier with how it handles different lighting situations. But once you are familier with it, it would probably serve you well.

[Sirius Glass]

I got a Gossen Luna Lux SBC rated EX+ for $115 from KEH.com. It takes incident and reflected readings. Zone readings and exposure corrections. A spot meter attachment is available.

[jeroldharter]

I have a Sekonic spot meter and a regular Gossen meter. I now use incident metering almost all the time. I recommend a Gossen Digiflash meter. They are very simple and incredibly small. My spot meter is like carrying a camera around my neck. This Digisix disappears in my shirt pocket. It reads EV's which are excellent for large format work and can be used as a flash meter also.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/278209-REG/Gossen_GO_4007_DigiFlash_Digital_Incident.html

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/images/images345x345/278209.jpg

[Donald Miller]

I have a Minolta light meter (VF I think) (meters flash too). I haven't used recently it because (i) I don't have studio lights and (ii) when shooting landscapes or any other available light I meter with my DSLR.

I am trying to pare down my shooting kit to the essentials. Is the light meter an essential? If I were to get studio lights, would I be able to meter with the DSLR still or is a flash meter useful for that?

I too have not, till now, used a second light meter when using my dslr. However, I am going to begin using one when I expose for HDR images. I believe that the use of a supplemental meter (I have a Sekonic 558) is the only accurate way to achieve optimal HDR images.

[Jack Dahlgren]

I too have not, till now, used a second light meter when using my dslr. However, I am going to begin using one when I expose for HDR images. I believe that the use of a supplemental meter (I have a Sekonic 558) is the only accurate way to achieve optimal HDR images.

For a DSLR I don't see the need for an additional meter as most HDR is the compositing of a number (many) exposures. You could just take a range of exposures (covering subject range +/- one stop or two for insurance) and select from them all. This gives you the most flexibility and is close enough to "optimum" that I doubt anyone could tell the difference.

[slrlounge]

I realize that this is a 'newschool' way of thinking, but your in-camera system should be fine. With the ability to check your work in camera, why not just save yourself some cash and take a couple test shots and make adjustments?

Just my 2 cents

-Chris
Lin and Jirsa Photography (http://www.linandjirsa.com)
Photography Tutorials (http://www.slrlounge.com)

[Deepanshu]

You can use a DSLR for evaluating studio lights too by taking a shot, viewing histogram, adjusting light output or aperture, repeat until you get it right.

[Rider]

You can use a DSLR for evaluating studio lights too by taking a shot, viewing histogram, adjusting light output or aperture, repeat until you get it right.

In theory yes, but in practicehow practical is it to evaluate light ratios on the tiny high-contrast screen? It might work shooting RAW, but not sure about shooting chromes.

[Sdrubansky]

Rider, if you are confortable taking your DSLR with you and the results are satisfying
don't bother buying a lightmeter, the DSLR will still work with studio lights. Wait untill you really need it.

I used to meter with a Nikon F3.

Now in the studio I use a Sekonic L-358 for ambient and reflected light and a Pentax Digital Spotmeter.
Both are great (1/3 stop difference though) but I only got them - 2 years apart from each other -
when the work progressed and my needs changed.

M

[Rider]

Rider, if you are confortable taking your DSLR with you and the results are satisfying
don't bother buying a lightmeter, the DSLR will still work with studio lights. Wait untill you really need it.

M

Thing is, I already have a Minolta flash meter and was wondering whether to sell it or keep it because I might in the future need it.

[Sdrubansky]

Ah,.. my bad.

Keep it, for sure.
M

[mdd99]

I had the Minolta Autometer IV and found it invaluable in the field, as was a spot meter. I never used the digital, if I ever took it. Both meters were, uh, spot on.

[Garen]

The more sophisticated point and shoots can display aperture and shutter values. They are good enough for me. I used a Kodak Z760 for the past 4.5 years. I am now using a Canon G11. You can use over/under exposure setting, ASA setting, aperture/shutter setting, etc. It takes pictures too! Garen