contact printing frame opinions

[Richard Rankin]

I've been using a 'budget' version of a contact printing frame that I bought fro m Photographers' Formulary and find it very unsatisfactory. The metal clip/clam ps are ineffective and have unseated themselves on a regular basis, causing more than acceptable waste through slipping and more than acceptable frustration whi ch is, perhaps, more important. Printing involves carrying a screwdriver to re-f it slipped clips and the frame has shown itself to be a poor performer under med ium (150 sheets in 3-4 months) usage. It was inexpensive ($35 for an 8x10) and I suppose I got what I paid for, although I think it should perform better than it does. But my question is: what contact printing frames are others using that they cou ld recommend? I do not require registration pins (at the moment) and don't care whether the source is American or not. Cheers and thanks in advance,Richard

[Chad Jarvis]

I have an 11x14 Ziaframe from Bostick and Sullivan. It wasn't all that cheap, but it is of top-notch quality.

[David A. Goldfarb]

My antique 8x10" Century frame is still going strong and probably didn't cost more than your new one as I recall. You can find them on eBay and places like www.mpex.com and www.lensandrepro.com.

[Per Volquartz]

Perhaps you can find a used Zone VI contact frame on ebay. These frames are sold new through Calumet (www.calumetphoyo.com) for around $80 or so (8X10). On ebay they run used around $40 - $65 depending on when and how an auction ends.

A small hinge type glass frame with foam backing may work well too if you are on a budget.

Or, you can purchase a piece of 1" thick foam (11X14 f. inst>) and a piece of 1/4" plate glass - slightly smaller (make sure the edges are ground smooth for your own safety), and simply place the heavy plate glass on the neg./paper sandwich.

Personally I use a 20X24 vacuum frame that I picked up on ebay for a song (and a dance...)

[Tracy Storer]

For years I've used two pieces of 1/4" plate glass clamped together with stationery clamps. (bulldog clamps) It makes a dead-flat sandwich. Unless you're using a printing-out process and need to peek I find it much more convenient than the spring back type. Have the glass shop smooth the edges, and wrap the back/bottom piece in brown paper, that way, if you scratch the top piece, just switch, and you've got a new perfect piece as back-up. Tracy Storer

[David E. Rose]

I second the recommendation for the Zone VI frame- it's a good one!

[Brian Ellis]

Doug Kennedy in California makes very nice contact printing frames (I've used his 16x20 or so frame for about seven years and except for some pitting on one of the metal pieces it's as good as new). I also understand that Great Basin makes nice frames but I've never seen theirs. Neither is cheap. I don't have contact information for either of them but they should pop up with a Google search or perhaps someone else can post the information.

[Pete Caluori]

Greetings,

If possible, go to some local camera shows and see what turns up. I've seen them from time to time and recently picked up a nice Burke & James frame for a few dollars.

Regards, Pete

[John Kasaian]

Richard, If you don't require a hinged back POP frame, I've sound that a small glass tabletop(heavy) like the import shops sell for end tables works well on a piece of solid rubber matting. Good Luck!