Glacier National Park - Autumn

[MumbleyJoe]

I only recently realized that Glacier National Park is within a day's drive from my home here in Seattle (in my mind I figured it would take days, until I recently checked the actual mileage). So, I am contemplating a quick trip for just a couple of days, most likely over the first weekend in October.

I have never been before and I do get the impression that things start to shut down pretty quickly after Labor Day, and that Logan's Pass may be closing down soon (essentially requiring you to choose which side of the park to visit).

So, does anyone have experience with Glacier at the very beginning of October? Am I too late?

I'd appreciate any advice on locations too (again, knowing very little about the park) - I'm comfortable with pretty well anything one would consider a 'day hike' (with the understanding that hiking with Large Format gear has never truly been 'comfortable', but I'm willing and typically able).

Many thanks!

[John Jarosz]

Hmmm. I find Glacier Park tough to photogrpah in some areas. Going to the Sun Road and Waterton areas are great. Other spots are tough for me. I've only been there in summer bu they do say that the whole area shuts down pretty fast after Labor Day. It's really a rugged landscape, and I find it difficult to get to locations where you are visually really close to that ruggedness. But I keep going back. If I could go to only one location for during a short visit I'd go on the Canadian side by Waterton. It's a big place and it's takes a lot of time to travel those distances within the park.

John

[Brian Ellis]

Everything in Glacier closes down somewhere in that general time frame, access roads are blocked by snow, etc. I spent a week there in late September IIRC a couple years ago and most things (restaurants, motels) were already closed and the few that weren't were closing that week (I was on the east side because the Road to the Sun was blocked by fallen rocks, maybe things are different on the west side). Someone here more familiar with Glacier than I am can give you better information but I wouldn't drive over there without first knowing that you can access the things you want to photograph and have a way to spend the nights and eat.

[MumbleyJoe]

Thank you both for the feedback. It's sort of what I feared - I'm likely too late to really have a chance to enjoy it. I'm sure I could manage to get something out of the experience, but perhaps its best to wait for another year.

I'll keep an eye on the situation and welcome others' advice too. Thanks again.

[Greg Miller]

A good resource for you is the NPS site for the park (http://www.nps.gov/glac/) - this has current road conditions and several webcams. A portion of Going to the Sun road (around Logan Pass) is currently closed due to snow. Its possible it could re-open if they get a warm spell, but I wouldn't count on it.

[Greg Miller]

And for what it is worth, if I had to pick only one side of the park I would pick the east side. But I wouldn't cry if it had to be the west side.

[civich]

Just go. I was there years ago in November and the park was virtually snow free. You, on the other hand, may get two feet of snow - what a photo op! The larch will be glowing. The eagles, bears and mergansers will be grabbing salmon out of the Lake McDonald out-flow stream - standing on the bridge and watching it is better than any PBS program! Just go.
-Chris

[Eric James]

I like Chris's spirited advise, but if the weather turns sour around your departure date you could settle for Lassen NP. Lassen is roughly 500 miles from Seattle; 50 miles shy of the Glacier drive. It's a beautiful, peaceful park.

[MumbleyJoe]

Chris, I appreciate your enthusiasm. I may just make tentative arrangements and watch the weather as the time approaches. Fortunately, I have the benefit of some flexibility.

Eric, I've made it to Lassen twice before, but just passing through quickly both times (though I loved it!). That's good advice - I would love to go back and spend more time there. It's a great and virtually unknown park.

Thanks all!

EDIT: Also Chris, I had no idea there were Larches in Glacier. I've been in Washington for 2 years now and have yet to see the larches turn color, and one of my reservations about heading to Glacier would be potentially missing a weekend of opportunity here. I'm glad to know I would have a chance of seeing them at Glacier too. :)

[civich]

Mumbleyjoe,
My experience with glacier np was back in the 80's. Just a stopover point on my way to Prince Rupert and back via Tofino. The larch were a revelation - I hadn't realized that other conifers besides my bald cypress lost their needles every year. You live in a glorious part of the world. Enjoy.
-Chris

[MumbleyJoe]

That's genuinely good advice Chris - I've lived in Washington state two years now and still haven't seen the larches... I'm clearly doing something wrong (but trying to correct it!)

[routlaw]

I only recently realized that Glacier National Park is within a day's drive from my home here in Seattle (in my mind I figured it would take days, until I recently checked the actual mileage). So, I am contemplating a quick trip for just a couple of days, most likely over the first weekend in October.

I have never been before and I do get the impression that things start to shut down pretty quickly after Labor Day, and that Logan's Pass may be closing down soon (essentially requiring you to choose which side of the park to visit).

So, does anyone have experience with Glacier at the very beginning of October? Am I too late?

I'd appreciate any advice on locations too (again, knowing very little about the park) - I'm comfortable with pretty well anything one would consider a 'day hike' (with the understanding that hiking with Large Format gear has never truly been 'comfortable', but I'm willing and typically able).

Many thanks!

I live in Montana and have been to Glacier many times during Sept as well as Oct. Even on a good year anything goes in terms of weather, it could be beautiful and it could also get brutal. This year has been unseasonably cooler and wetter than normal, so the conditions for a nice fall are good if a cold snap does not come first and kill off the color like last year. The last campground to shut down (Apgar) is usually around the 3rd week of Oct give or take a few days. You should get in touch with the park service for specific advise on Going to the Sun Road, it changes from year to year.

As one poster said, Glacier is a very difficult place to photograph and it will take you a few days just to get "your sea legs" in this place. In other words you really should plan on more than a couple of days… its worth it.

Regarding the east vs west side. The east is much windier and somewhat higher in elevation meaning color changes faster and also vaporizes faster. At times the wind on the east side can dampen LF photography. For the most part I like the west side better and by all means make the effort to go to Bowman Lake and stop in at the Polebridge Mercantile while on the way. Its a long gravel road drive up, but not to be missed especially in the fall. Its "larch city" up there.

Its true most facilities are starting to shut down within Sept, but at least on the west side there are towns relatively close by where you can get meals, supplies etc. In other words don't let this effect your plans. The park will be open and it can be a lovely time of year to be there. There are no bad places in Glacier, more like being a kid in a candy store for some of the most inspiring dramatic scenery in the world. Waterton is also spectacular and well worth the effort. If the Sun road is close you can always take the long way around the south end of the park on Hiway 2 to get to East Glacier and other parts of the park.

Hope this helps.

Rob

[MumbleyJoe]

That's extraordinarily helpful Rob, thanks so much. It's great to get the experience of someone who knows the place well.

And I'm sure I would be best served with a much longer trip, but I'm trying to think of it the same way I encourage people to visit Yosemite. Even if you don't have time to take it all in (an impossible task) it's better to see it even briefly if you have a chance, and get a sense of the place. Most likely it will serve as a basis for planning a future (and proper trip). If it's a choice between a couple days and zero I will take a couple days. :)

[routlaw]

And I'm sure I would be best served with a much longer trip… If it's a choice between a couple days and zero I will take a couple days. :)

Understood, have a great visit to Glacier. You want regret it.

[Greg Miller]

National Park is open year round, most of it's two-million visitors arrive in the summer months from June to September. However May and October still offer tepid weather, far less visitors and far better opportunities to view wildlife and spectacular spring or fall colors. With over 1,000 species of wildflowers, Glacier National Park is in full bloom during July.
Of course the best way to see Glacier National Park is on foot. Hiking trails range from short prairie treks to grueling climbs up some of Glacier's mountains. When hiking and touring Glacier National Park wildlife viewing opportunities abound. Grizzly bears, mountain lions, big horn sheep, wolves, and bald eagles all call Glacier National Park home. More species of large mammals live in Glacier National Park than any other place in the United States. However these animals are largely shy and during the busiest times move far from the well traveled roads. Your best chance to see wildlife is hiking in the backcountry or during May and October.

Why are so many of your posts direct copies from other people's articles on the internet? This post is verbatim text from parts of this page: http://www.outdoorplaces.com/Destination/USNP/mtglacie/ (http://www.outdoorplaces.com/Destination/USNP/mtglacie/)

[John Berry]

In reference to larch trees try east of white pass. From the pass to rimrock lake you gottum.

[MumbleyJoe]

Thanks for the tip John. After having finished 1600 miles of driving for my weekend in Glacier, I'm not sure I can bear the drive down there, but perhaps by this weekend I'll feel differently. :)

Thanks again for the advice from everyone. My wife and I left Seattle Thursday evening and got about 48 hours at Glacier (woefully inadequate, I admit, but far better than nothing).

What a spectacular place as I'm sure everyone already knows! Indeed, official park services were nil, I believe the campground at Apgar was open, but everything else (except the admission gates) seemed to be closed. That said, there is plenty just outside the park gates to stock up on the minimal provisions you need to spend the days in the park. Provided the weather is nice, I wouldn't hesitate to recommend others visit this time of year.

Autumn is in full swing, and beautiful! (Not just in the park, but all around the area. The fall color really started in Idaho in the Coeur D'Alene area and didn't stop). The area between "Trail of the Cedars" and Logan's Pass is closed for construction and, since we decided to visit Logan's Pass, it necessitated the longer drive around the south side of the park. That entire stretch (particularly in the southwest, along the river) was gorgeous, and I likely wouldn't have seen it if I hadn't had to take the long route. Unfortunately most of that was seen from behind the wheel, rather than under a darkcloth.

Photographically I found it a challenge, partly because I was just getting my bearings. I found the air to be a bit hazy, enough to be problematic. I also found locations to be in shadow when I didn't expect them to be - perhaps because the sun is farther south this time of year than when photos I've seen were taken.

Regardless, it was a great trip and I certainly encourage others to add it to their must-see list.

[TraceMon]

Was just in Glacier last week, colors coming in nicely, park all but shut down. It was a recon trip (just a couple of days there, a couple of days in Jackson Hole) in advance of a week in Southern Utah, so we didn't hit much more than Going to the Sun Road from the East (the middle's shut down for construction). Found a couple of good locations on the route from Kalispell to the West Gate. The fall color really helps to keep me out of the trap of always looking for the "grand vistas" and offers potential compositions that you don't get in other seasons (well, ok, spring would be similar).
Park is definitely in shutdown mode, but you should find enough open to get the feel of the place, and come away with some fab shots. Like Chris said, just go!

[Ivan J. Eberle]

The bee-yatch about all the services shutting down this time of year in Glacier (and Yellowstone, and Tetons) for the LF photographer is that it's often 1 to 2 hours from many of the roadside photo ops (let alone backcountry ones) to the park entrances. Towns of any size are another .5 to 1 hour + further away, where there's year-round food and lodging. Catching a sunrise and/or sunset can make for a late night or very early morning. Situation improves somewhat as the days get even shorter, though.

[jloen]

In my free wheeling college days in Missoula during the 1970's we went to Glacier a lot, generally in the off season. October can have wonderful clear weather there.

One year we went there for Thanksgiving break, that's real late for Glacier and we were the only ones there, three of us driving in a tiny MG. It was worth it, though because although Going to the Sun road was closed at the Loop, we were able to lift the cable and drive all the way to Logan Pass and we spent the whole day up there by ourselves. A day later a huge rain/snow storm moved in slammed us while camping at Apgar. I think our Thanksgiving dinner was a cold cup of rice.

We broke a few Park regulations, but that's not the wildest thing we ever did in our Missoula college days. Ah, those were good times.

[Ivan J. Eberle]

It's a substantial gate nowadays. And if you didn't get arrested, you'd likely be annihilated by construction equipment, this year.