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gdi
27-Jul-2010, 14:38
I have an old ektar 127 on a speed graphic board and I need to remove it to try to clean the Synchro Compur shutter. The slow speeds are terrible.

But the retaining ring is a bit recessed and I am having trouble getting a wrench in to remove it. I have broken a bit already, and I think the thing needs some encouragement to loosen up. Would something like liquid wrench or blast away(?) lubricant help or destroy the components? I thought of heating it up with an heat gun, but don't want to melt anything!

thanks

Peter K
27-Jul-2010, 15:04
I have an old ektar 127 on a speed graphic board and I need to remove it to try to clean the Synchro Compur shutter. The slow speeds are terrible.
Why do you think you can clean a Synchro Compur if you cannot remove the shutter from the lensboard? You will need not only the tools but also the skills. Or can you fix grandfather's pocket watch too?

A leaf shutter isn't so different from a watch.

Peter

domaz
27-Jul-2010, 15:33
I don't think you even need to take it off the lensboard. Try following the instructions for CLAing a Synchro-Compur on this page (http://shutter-cla.blogspot.com/). It's way down near the bottom- lots of good stuff there.

gdi
27-Jul-2010, 17:04
Why do you think you can clean a Synchro Compur if you cannot remove the shutter from the lensboard? You will need not only the tools but also the skills. Or can you fix grandfather's pocket watch too?

A leaf shutter isn't so different from a watch.

Peter

Actually I have built many precision pocket watches using only tin snips and old beer cans. If you behave yourself I might be convinced to sell you one.

Captain_joe6
27-Jul-2010, 17:06
I'm in a similar situation. I want to sell a camera, but not the 127mm Ektar in Supermatic #2 shutter, so I need to remove it from the lensboard.

Problem is, It won't budge. The retaining ring is not slotted for a spanner, and is screwed to the lensboard, but turning the shutter against the lensboard proves futile. Is there a retaining pin somewhere that I'm missing?

gdi
27-Jul-2010, 17:10
I don't think you even need to take it off the lensboard. Try following the instructions for CLAing a Synchro-Compur on this page (http://shutter-cla.blogspot.com/). It's way down near the bottom- lots of good stuff there.

Thanks Domaz, The problem is that I need to remove the rear element and it looks like it will be much easier with the lens detached. But I will take another look at it.

Brian Ellis
27-Jul-2010, 19:55
If your retaining ring has the usual slots buy the S.K. Grimes spanner wrench from - surprise - S.K. Grimes. The ends are adjustable so that they can fit down into the recessed area. I used mine with several different kinds of recessed boards and they worked like a charm. They're slightly pricey (about $30) as spanner wrenches go but they're the usual Grimes quality and once you have it you'll never need another one. I'll be selling mine one of these days, if you're interested send me an email message.

gdi
28-Jul-2010, 02:42
If your retaining ring has the usual slots buy the S.K. Grimes spanner wrench from - surprise - S.K. Grimes. The ends are adjustable so that they can fit down into the recessed area. I used mine with several different kinds of recessed boards and they worked like a charm. They're slightly pricey (about $30) as spanner wrenches go but they're the usual Grimes quality and once you have it you'll never need another one. I'll be selling mine one of these days, if you're interested send me an email message.

Thanks Brian, I'll send you an email. I have several wrenches but nn seemed to fit well enough to be able to apply adequate pressure.

Jim Noel
28-Jul-2010, 08:52
Two nails only partially through a board at the appropriate separation provide a good emergency retaining ring wrench. Although I have two good wrenches, I sometimes have to resort to this solution.

steven_e007
28-Jul-2010, 11:14
The secret to removing the ring is to get a decent grip with a good quality spanner wrench of the correct size and shape. The thing you really want to avoid is attacking it with something that doesn't fit and damaging the slots. You may then end up with a ring almost impossible to remove...

You can buy spanner wrenches on ebargumbay and from tool stockists. Even good quality ones sometimes need to be 'fine tuned' on a grindstone to get the tips to be a good fit if the slots are small. When you have a spanner that is a good fit - apply a SMALL amount of thread release/ penetrating oil. Make sure it just goes on the threads... put a little on a needle and let capillary action pull it in to where it is needed, rather than squirt it everywhere :eek:

Place the whole lot in a well sealed plastic bag and place in the fridge for a few hours.

When it comes out, touch a soldering iron ( a precision electronic one - not a 25LB brass pot handle tool!) to the ring - being very careful to touch only the ring - for just a short while. Then try it. Gentle shock treatment sometimes works (very gentle taps with your knuckles - not a sledge hammer! ;)

HTH

Gem Singer
28-Jul-2010, 11:44
gdi,

Try this: Unscrew both the front and rear lens elements from the shutter. Put them in a safe place.

You are now dealing only with the shutter.

Hold the lens board in your left hand. Turn the shutter body counter-clockwise with your right hand.

It should un-screw. No need to use a spanner wrench or tools.

Fotoguy20d
28-Jul-2010, 11:48
I'm in a similar situation. I want to sell a camera, but not the 127mm Ektar in Supermatic #2 shutter, so I need to remove it from the lensboard.

Problem is, It won't budge. The retaining ring is not slotted for a spanner, and is screwed to the lensboard, but turning the shutter against the lensboard proves futile. Is there a retaining pin somewhere that I'm missing?


Very often there's a pin holding the supermatic to the board so it can't spin freely. It sounds, though, like you have a retaining flange which is screwed to the lensboard? So, there can't be a pin holding the shutter to the board too - although, once, I had a lensboard with a small screw installed from the back which went into that hole on the shutter. Absent that, you just need to get a good grip on the shutter and board - I often wrap the shutter with a silicone rubber pad so as not to risk damaging a lever in the process. If you still can't move it, and have a 4" or so bench vise, you can carefully clamp the shutter into that if you can find two clear sides (still, use a rubber pad for protection) and try spinning the board.

Dan

Bill_1856
28-Jul-2010, 12:00
If it's a factory installed lens/shutter, there is (usually) a small screw protruding from the back of the shutter which fits into a hole in the lensboard to prevent the shutter from rotating.

gdi
29-Jul-2010, 03:53
Thanks for all the tips - I will give it another try.

tom thomas
29-Jul-2010, 13:42
While scanning this post, I noticed the entry about cleaning the Compur shutter which directed us to another post. There it mentioned that Trichlorethane is the preferred solvent but hard to find now.

I may have the answer and it's in a spray can like WD-40 with a tube.

Drop by your local hobby store where they sell RC electric cars. Look for a can of Duratrax Power Shot Electric Motor Cleaner Spray, 20 oz size. Stock number DTXC2450.
I have a can left over from my son's RC days and was surprised to find that it is 1,1,1 Trichloroethane. I'll have to borrow the tube from a can of WD-40 but I'm itching to try it to loosen up the slow speeds on a couple of my Graflex lenses. Carefully of course. Since it's spray, don't have to dunk everything in a wet bath to soak or change leaving bits of cotton fibers in the gears by using Q-tips and solvent.

I'll take out both lenses anyway.

Tom

r_a_feldman
30-Jul-2010, 14:50
Sometimes you can free up stuck threads by first _tightening_ them, then loosening them. Tightening can break the corrosion/oxidation holding the threads immobile.

bobwysiwyg
30-Jul-2010, 15:15
If the previous hints don't work, and you believe corrosion is the problem, try; ATF, Acetone, Mineral Sprits and kerosene in equal parts. We use it to 'persuade' corroded parts to separate on vintage motorcycles.