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Ben Syverson
11-Jul-2010, 08:03
I got a processor and some old film for extremely cheap now that the format is in limbo... My problem is that I can't seem to get the processor to... process.

I'm using the older style processor, with a 81-06 holder in the 81-09 loading tray. When I push the button, the processor only grabs the negative, drags it halfway out of the holder, and then jams.

The rollers are not a problem, as I cleaned them and they're running smoothly. If I take the loading tray out completely, I can feed a negative through the rollers using the motor with no problem. It zips right through. I think I'm loading the positive and negative right (negative between the guides, catching on the tongue -- positive so that it fits in the recessed area on the tray).

My thing is, I can't figure out how this is supposed to work mechanically. The negative has that big tab which feeds between the rollers, so it's easy to see how that would get drawn into the machine. But the positive doesn't hit the rollers, and isn't connected to the negative in any way. Why would it move? I can't even visualize it.

I've been referring to the manual, but maybe I'm just doing it really wrong. I've attached pictures of the positive and negative loaded into the 81-09, outside the processor. If anyone can explain to me how the positive gets "caught" and drawn into the rollers, I would be most appreciative!

lecarp
11-Jul-2010, 15:16
There is a slot in the receptor sheet with the pod that the tab is inserted through, the processor should then pull both through. Hope that solves your problem.

Ben Syverson
11-Jul-2010, 16:25
THANK YOU. That was a huge help. It turns out there was a broken spring in the 81-09 loading tray... There's a metal tab that comes down to push the negative's tab into the positive, and it's supposed to return when it's done... The spring that returns that metal piece broke, so I have to return it manually now. But at least I have it working!

Thanks again!

Ben Syverson
12-Jul-2010, 11:38
Here's another question: does anyone save or transfer (?) the negative after peeling? I washed one, and it has an interesting black-on-black look.

Ben Syverson
12-Jul-2010, 16:09
Forgot to mention the saga of the blown capacitor... I bought the processor (81-12) from a surplus guy on eBay. It arrived absolutely filthy (clearly not used by a photographer, but by some kind of government engineer), so I spent an hour removing gunk. Finally plugged it in, and it worked! Hooray. A half hour later, I hear a horrible hissing sound, and smoke fills the room. And it keeps pouring out. After a while I realize it's not fire smoke, but more like smoke machine smoke.

Of course, the old oil-filled capacitor had failed catastrophically, which meant another hour of cleaning gunk, this time on the inside of the machine. I've read a few of reports online of this happening with the processor.

The original capacitor was an Aerovox 0.8F 220V 60 Hz. As a replacement I decided on this: DigiKey part P10943-ND (http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?WT.z_header=search_go&lang=en&site=us&keywords=P10943-ND&x=0&y=0), 1.0F 220V AC. $6 later, I had two of them.

Soldered the thing in (be careful with big capacitors -- I shorted this one just to be sure), taped it down, closed it up, and so far so good! I left the old one in there, because some wires were leading to its case (not leads -- ground?).

Now I just need to wait for the Impossible Project to start making the film again!

Robert Hughes
13-Jul-2010, 09:28
Of course, the old oil-filled capacitor had failed catastrophically, which meant another hour of cleaning gunk, this time on the inside of the machine.
And, of course, the oil those old capacitors use contains Polychlorinated Biphenyls aka PCB's (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polychlorinated_biphenyl), highly toxic and long-lived organic oils that were banned from production decades ago. Have fun cleaning! :eek:

77seriesiii
16-Jul-2010, 00:14
ahh but those oil filled caps sound so wonderful in a tube amp...wait wrong hobby...dammit! :D

./e

papayaspoint
16-Jan-2012, 04:59
Hi,
I had the same problem with my processor (same model); I'm looking for a valid substitute for the motor start capacitor.
After your modify, everything is fine with your equipment? Have you checked the circuit at low voltage, or you had just plugged the processor at full voltage?
Thanks in advance
M:)

UberSquid
16-Jan-2012, 09:33
Hi,
I had the same problem with my processor (same model); I'm looking for a valid substitute for the motor start capacitor.
After your modify, everything is fine with your equipment? Have you checked the circuit at low voltage, or you had just plugged the processor at full voltage?
Thanks in advance
M:)

That isn't a very tight tolerance application. Get a capacitor that is close and you will be fine. (Stay out of Radio Shack) Find a decent components store and they should be able to point you in the right direction.

Ben Syverson
16-Jan-2012, 10:47
Yeah, I just swapped it and powered it on. It works fine!

aluncrockford
16-Jan-2012, 13:35
If all goes badly wrong then on the side is a slot for a winder to process by hand, as to loading the tray should be fixed to the unit with the white positive tab inserted into the slot,the most important thing is to make sure positive it is sitting in the frame,if not it will not pull through with the neg. When shooting the neg just ensure that the top of the envelope is over the tab so when you pull off the sleeve the neg stays in the slide, when putting the slide into the tray it should all fix snugly ,any movement will indicate the slide is not fitting, ,when you press the power button keep it pressed until the slide goes through , then wait until the time is up, and if I were you add a bit , resist the urge to pick it up too soon as you will get marks on the print.

Tim Povlick
16-Jan-2012, 13:36
If the capacitor is a 'run' capacitor, the uF is critical (for motor performance) and should be matched when replacing.

http://www.smokstak.com/forum/showthread.php?t=89494

Digikey has stock in 0.82 uF to closely match the motor. Ben did the correct thing by selecting voltage based on AC rating and not DC. Do not use a cap based on DC rating! Not sure 220V-AC rating is high enough and realize it's 120V-AC but I seem to recall some EE type article spec'ed a much higher voltage above nominal line voltage (like 600vAC) . Don't recall exactly, so leave that to a (motor) Electrical Engineer (I am (camera) Electronic Engineer).

Be very careful with the cap and proper insulation. Think what will happen in 10 years, will plain tape still adhere properly enough to risk a life? I'd crimp / solder one of the leads directly to the spade lug so it's mechanically held in place.

Best Regards,

Tim

Ben Syverson
16-Jan-2012, 13:54
Good idea, Tim. But I'm going to wait another year or two to open the case again, because now I'm freaked out about the carcinogenic oil. Haha

If I die young, don't tell my wife it was all because I just had to run some expired 809!

bitnaut
30-Sep-2012, 11:29
Yeah, I just swapped it and powered it on. It works fine!

I used a 1uF as well and my Polaroid processor is back in business! Thanks Ben for the info.

PS Strangely, it also fixed the timer buzzer. Before the fix, the buzzer would go off until I unplugged the unit. Now, the buzzer shuts off after a few seconds the way it's supposed to.

polyglot
27-Oct-2014, 03:03
As per my post in the other thread, that is NOT a suitable replacement capacitor because it is not rated for the current you're subjecting it to. Buy a proper motor capacitor, it will still be only about $1 for 0.8uF.

vdonovan
27-Oct-2014, 11:22
Now I just need to wait for the Impossible Project to start making the film again!

As you probably know, Impossible has had 8x10 in stock for several months. They have two formulations, old and new. The newer seems to have better blacks and a better tonal range. https://shop.the-impossible-project.com/shop/film/8x10inch