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spacegoose
6-May-2010, 11:12
I overexposed HP5+ 4 stops (ISO 25, yikes!). I'm not expecting much but would like to salvage the negatives as much as possible.

I shot 4x5 sheet film with a 2A flash bulb. Aperture f/11, shutter 1/300 s - around 5.5 ft. from subject (people) as it was getting dark out. According to the bulb box (http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4045/4582696219_1c0e5d3076_o.jpg) - apparently this would be proper for ASA 25 ... ?

Thanks for any suggestions - I was considering HC110-H for 2-3 minutes. I believe dilution H needs a minimum amount of solution to work. Have also seen Perceptol suggested for pull process.

Thanks for any suggestions :)

Robert Hughes
6-May-2010, 11:56
Reshoot.

CG
6-May-2010, 12:29
Maybe a speed losing developer like folgernol? One normally has to "overexpose" to expose properly with such developers. In your case that would be an asset rather than a drawback. You'd probably be only one or two stops overexposed, and a little pull in the development might make for quite printable negs. I'd test some film before I commit film I care about.

Another tack might be glycin only developers. They are reputed to lose a stop of spped.

Ken Lee
6-May-2010, 12:51
I just posted a sample photo on this thread (http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=52913), where I not only over-exposed the image, the sky values fell on Zone XV.

Using a divided developer (also known as 2-Bath developer), the image came out fine ! In fact, I had to add contrast in order to make the image look more natural.

You will also see on that thread, photos made from within natural caves, where detail is preserved both within and outside the cave in broad daylight, with no need for fill lighting, reflectors, or even special exposure. Just place the shadows where you want, let the high values fall in the upper stratosphere, and let the developer take care of the rest.

Perhaps I don't get out enough, but this particular phenomenon continues to amaze me, no matter how often I see it or try it.

JRFrench
6-May-2010, 14:27
I've done the same thing with FP4 by accident (was either 4 or 6 stops pulled), I stand developed in Rodinal 1:100 or 1:200 for 45 mins and got a pretty decent image.

Steve Sherman
6-May-2010, 14:48
I overexposed HP5+ 4 stops (ISO 25, yikes!). I'm not expecting much but would like to salvage the negatives as much as possible.



4 stops is really not that much. Research a Reduced Agitation / Semi-Stand thread and process the film accordingly.

If you want a suggested starting point I've become pretty good at judging how to process with Pyrocat HD developer.

Cheers

ic-racer
6-May-2010, 15:17
Just process it as usual. You can't force the shoulder into a straight line with any changes in development.

If content got up onto the shoulder you will have a decreased tonal range, needing a higher contrast paper. If content did not make it to the shoulder, it should print fine.

Steve Sherman
6-May-2010, 16:01
Just process it as usual. You can't force the shoulder into a straight line with any changes in development.



Never a good idea to make absolute statements, the one above couldn't be more untrue. Consider Reduced Agitation development with a Pyro based developer.

If the neg is that important to you, hold off and do some research

ki6mf
7-May-2010, 10:11
Some kind of compensating developer is what is needed. The two stop above makes sense. There are many posts on using HC110 in a two step process. I use D 76 and do 1 part developer to 5 parts water with 2 minutes between agitation for 15 minutes. Then let it sit for 4 minutes without agitation. This acts like a 2 stop process. Unfortunately compensating developer ofter needs to have experimentation done on what works the best with you individual environment.