magenta cast with E6

[coops]

Just developed my first two 8x10's in a Jobo using the Kodak chemicals. Followed the instructions to a t and was dissapointed to find one neg (Velvia 100) had a slight magenta cast covering perhaps 30% of the lower half of one image. The rest icluding the other neg was spot on perfect.
So I developed 5 4x5's and all but one was great,again with a slight megenta cast.
I read on this forum that lowering the pre bleach might help, but would this apply if only part of the negative was affected?

[dsphotog]

The only problems I've had when first developing film in the Jobo was:
1) I didn't check that the drum was level, so one end didn't get evenly developed.
2) Not enough chemical for the amount of film surface.

[coops]

The only problems I've had when first developing film in the Jobo was:
1) I didn't check that the drum was level, so one end didn't get evenly developed.
2) Not enough chemical for the amount of film surface.

I used 330 cc's of chemical for 2 8x10's. I could go as high as 650 or so or as little as 270 with the expert drums.

[tgtaylor]

If you developed both negatives at the same time in the same tank, then the results are hard to understand. Both negatives should have had a magneta cast. I suggest that you refer to the Jobo manual which blames magneta cast on: time of rinse after 1st developer; need to aerate bleach before starting process (shake vigorsely for 30 seconds); or need to increase color developer concentration by 10%.

The amount of chemistry used (330mL) appears correct. You might consider this from Kodak:
Instruction Sheet—8 Copyright, Eastman Kodak Company, 1999
TI2443 Revised 01-00
Yellow D-min Stain—The blue D-min densities and sometimes the green plot high. The D-min is yellow overall, and
there are yellow streaks and patches of varying densities from run to run. It is usually most noticeable in large areas of
low density.. To eliminate yellow D-min stain, try the following modifications—one at a time.
1. Increase the time of the pre-bleach to 4 minutes.
2. Blow nitrogen into the processing chamber during the color-developer step.
3. The pre-bleach may be exhausted. Make a new pre-bleach.
4. The color developer may be oxidized. Make a new color developer.
5. Add a 30-second spray or flowing wash between the color-developer and prebleach
steps and replace the final rinse with KODAK FLEXICOLOR Stabilizer
III Replenisher.
Important: Adding a wash between the color developer and pre-bleach steps,
without the corresponding change to Stabilizer III, will result in unsatisfactory
magenta-image stability.
6. Increase the amount of pre-bleach used by 50 percent.
If none of the changes corrects the problem, check for chemical-mixing or storage
errors, and solution contamination.
If you have a large processor, the yellow D-min stain may be most evident in the film
that is farthest from the solution inlet. Sometimes the solution flow may leave prebleach
at the inlet while color developer collects at the opposite end. To minimize this,
move the position of the inlet to the center of the tray or install inlets at the ends as
well as at the center. This change will also produce more consistent results with the
other processing steps.

[coops]

Heres a quick scan with no adjustment. You can see the cast. Perhaps the developer did not evenly distribute?

[vinny]

I had this happen with my first couple 4x5's. In my case it was on the base side of the film. If you are, don't push the film all the way to the bottom of the tube. Jobo explains that. Also, are you rotating the drum both ways? I wasn't initially since I was told it wasn't needed for sufficient agitation. It's not but getting the chemicals to the base side is also important.

[coops]

I had this happen with my first couple 4x5's. In my case it was on the base side of the film. If you are, don't push the film all the way to the bottom of the tube. Jobo explains that. Also, are you rotating the drum both ways? I wasn't initially since I was told it wasn't needed for sufficient agitation. It's not but getting the chemicals to the base side is also important.

I will rotate both ways next time, thanks. This is 8x10 by the way, not that it should make any difference.

Thanks

[vinny]

If you were only rotating one direction, that's your problem. At least do it for the first minute of each step to get some liquid in there. Search the jobo site- they say push the film in only until it's flush with the top of the tube (i don't remember if that's for 4x5 and/or 8x10 but that's how I do it and no issues now).

[DONALD HARRIS]

And they all came out with a heavy magenta cast, which is not there on the slides. I checked the scanner hasn't gone wrong by scanning some Sensia too, and they're fine - Sensia scans fine, Kodachrome scans magenta.











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[Gudmundur Ingolfsson]

As common cause of magenta cast in E6 processing in to high a concentration of the reversal bath. But then all the chromes in the batch will be too magenta. When using Kodak chemicals that are intended for dip and dunk you use 30 cc of reversal stock to the liter of user solution in stead of the 50 cc you use for dip and dunk.

[domaz]

You don't have to worry about Reversal batch being mixed differently with the 5L kit. Mix the reversal bath as it says on the flap of the box and it should work fine in a Jobo. I would double check your first developer and wash temperature/times. You didn't use room temperature water to wash did you? Also are you mixing the color developer correctly? It's a pain to mix in small amounts...