Neg numbering problem

[Darin Boville]

I'm working on a new project and I've run into an odd problem. I need to shoot a series of photographs--let's say it is a light bulb against a dark surround. I need to shoot two images at the same time, using two cameras. I need to shoot a bunch of these pairs.

Later, I want to match the pairs up. I can't use any sort of notch method of numbering the holders since the dark surround will not expose the notches.

How to match them up?

Here are my ideas but I'm looking for better ones.

1) Put a little written tag in the image area, at the edge. Might work and I can erase them after I scan the negs but I'm worried that "glow" from the light source might reach the tag area--and I don't want to retouch to that extent.

2) I could i.d. the holders and develop the negs two at a time. Slow and painful but it would work.

3) I could buy some sort of neg system (tubes?) that I could number and keep the negs sorted and id'ed the whole way through the process. I don't think I'm organized enough for this...

Any other ideas?

--Darin

[photographs42]

Use a paper punch to punch notches in patterns along the edges of the film before loading it into the film holders.
Jerome

[Dennis]

You could number the holders for the exposure. Then when you get ready to process you could take a pair of scissors and clip one of the four corners of the film slightly. For one set the upper right, another set the upper left, another set the lower right, and another set the lower left. Then you can process 8 sheets at a time and keep the sets straight.

[memorris]

A system that is used at times is to use different shaped files to make a series of notches in the flap on the film holder. Use the shapes like Roman Numerals (or whatever system you wish). This will be exposed when you expose the sheet of film.. If you do this however, make sure to clean the holder wery well afterwards or you will have problems with the dust from filing.

[ic-racer]

The filmholders with the interlock button (that many hate, but I like) have a number wheel that imprints a number of your choice on the film at the time of exposure.
http://www.calumetphoto.com/resources/images/products/rw4500.jpg

[bobwysiwyg]

The filmholders with the interlock button (that many hate, but I like) have a number wheel that imprints a number of your choice on the film at the time of exposure.
http://www.calumetphoto.com/resources/images/products/rw4500.jpg

Where does one find these?

[Ed Richards]

LF 3D? Do the pictures need to be at exactly the same time, or could you move the holder from to another? If the pairs are in the same holder, it makes it a lot easier to keep the in sync. You could then use a 3010 expert drum and keep them paired.

[David de Gruyl]

(in 4x5) Grafmatic... number wheel projects onto the film during exposure. You would need two, with working number wheels. They hold six shots.

[Ed Richards]

Does the Grafmatic need light from the image to work? That is the problem with the edge notching.

[David de Gruyl]

Does the Grafmatic need light from the image to work? That is the problem with the edge notching.

Yes. The wheel comes into the image rectangle slightly

[ic-racer]

Where does one find these?

Calumet may still sell them.

[Bob Salomon]

You need to make some friskets that you tape to the bottom edge of the holders. Friskets are made from clear film that has a small number on it. The light from the exposure imprints the number on each sheet of film.

[Ed Richards]

As the post indicates, these pictures will have no light to illuminate anything on the side.

[Bob Salomon]

As the post indicates, these pictures will have no light to illuminate anything on the side.

The type on the frisket is black so it will appear white or grey on the film.

[Ed Richards]

Bob,

How will it image if there is no light shining on it? Same problem I have with my notches when I have a dark background.

[Bob Salomon]

Bob,

How will it image if there is no light shining on it? Same problem I have with my notches when I have a dark background.

The light from that bulb should be enough. Light reaches the number, just won't be enough to make it bright white. Do make the numbers bold type though.

[Darin Boville]

>>LF 3D? Do the pictures need to be at exactly the same time, or could you move the holder from to another?<<

Not 3D--they just need to be shot at the same time for philosophical reasons :)

--Darin

[Darin Boville]

You need to make some friskets that you tape to the bottom edge of the holders. Friskets are made from clear film that has a small number on it. The light from the exposure imprints the number on each sheet of film.

Intriguing idea but I'm puzzled, as an earlier poster mentioned, about how this will work--the "light bulb" is in the center of the frame--the surround will be black. There will be some "glow" but I'm not clear on how it will expose in that circumstance.

In my tests so far I cannot see the edge of the film caused by the film holder--it is just clear all the way out.

--Darin

[Jack Dahlgren]

With no light hitting the edge, none of these methods of overlaying with a notch in the holder or a clear overlay will show up.

Notching the sheets of film is going to be most reliable. Use a hole punch and take a bite out of the notched edge of the film. You can easily come up with a code for notching them. Binary would work pretty easy, no notch = 0, notch in first position = 1with 2 notch positions you have 4 possible values, 3=8, 4=16, ...

[Bob Salomon]

Give it a try. That is how we marked most of the prints from the Cuban Crises and how Linhof numbered their film holders. Can't think of an instance where it didn't work. Of course the numbers have to be almost in contact with the emulsion.

Otherwise you would notch the edges of the film either before loading the holders or after unloading them.