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Jon Warwick
9-Mar-2010, 13:22
I sometimes get quite a lot of (bellows?) flare when I use the Super Symmar 110XL lens on my Ebony RSW45, which I am looking to eliminate with a lens hood.

I appreciate that a compendium shade is probably the best in reducing both direct and indirect light -- however, I am not sure that I want to deal with the inconvenience of rigging up a compendium shade every time I take a shot.

As such, I would like to know if anyone is using a metal (or a collapsible rubber) lens shade that simply screws onto the front of the Super Symmar 110XL lens, and which (i) works very well in eliminating flare, and (ii) can be permanently left there without being concerned about vignetting, even when I use movements??

Peter K
9-Mar-2010, 13:49
Jon, why do you use a LF-camera if you don't want to deal with the inconvenience of rigging up a compendium shade every time I take a shot?

Such an inconvenient compendium shade is the only possibility to avoid flare. Every lenshood is either to small if it doesn't vignettes together with camera movements or you have to avoid camera movemenst.

Bob Salomon
9-Mar-2010, 14:22
Won't work. If it blocks flare effectively then it will also vignette, especially when you use camera movements.

If you do not want to use a compendium, which is the best way to block all flare, then you could use a gobo. A gobo is a flag, card, hat, etc. that you place or hold out of the field of view of the lens so that it blocks the light causing the flare from striking the lens. A compendium is easier and more effective,

erie patsellis
9-Mar-2010, 16:31
Bob,
I prefer matte box type systems, such as Sinar's excellent Bellows Shade II, that give you total control over each side work well at eliminating bellows flare when used properly, such as the OP is experiencing

Obviously he's not using a monorail, but a compendium would probably stop 80 to 90% of it, then there's always the way Ansel recommended: use an 8x10 camera with a 4x5 reducing back to reduce bellows flare.

Of course the elephant in the room should be: why are you using a lens with such a huge image circle on a field camera, much less without proper (compendium or at the least a flag or gobo) shading?

GPS
9-Mar-2010, 16:36
...
As such, I would like to know if anyone is using a metal (or a collapsible rubber) lens shade that simply screws onto the front of the Super Symmar 110XL lens, and which (i) works very well in eliminating flare, and (ii) can be permanently left there without being concerned about vignetting, even when I use movements??

Those are contradictory requirements on the lens hood. Therefore it cannot work, as said above...

Heroique
9-Mar-2010, 17:04
Before I could afford a Lee WA hood (below), I used an inexpensive rubber screw-in hood for 67mm threads whose design allowed some movements for my 110XL. If I inspected the corners and noticed the hood getting in the way, I simply “pushed it back” and it still provided a little bit of protection. And when I needed more movements, I removed it and improvised as much shading as I could. I wouldn’t say the rubber hood “worked well,” but it was better than nothing. And I quickly learned it wasn’t just direct sunlight that might degrade my image; it was also indirect reflections coming from all directions, especially if I was on sand or snow, or near other reflective objects in the bright sun. During the time I used it, the rubber hood protected me from those reflections to some degree, just not nearly so well as my Lee hood does now.

Frank Petronio
9-Mar-2010, 17:17
Even a short metal hood, not really long enough to be 100% effective, is still nice for physical protection of the lens itself, it will help keep the front element cleaner, and if you should drop it, it (might) take the brunt of the impact. Even if it vignettes, it is usually outside the crop. I look for pinch lenscaps so I can leave them screwed on.

Bob, didn't Linhof sell a series of plastic clamp on hoods for Technikas?

And yes the full on compendiums are the best but you don't see many of our elegant wooden field camera fiends using them...

Bob Salomon
9-Mar-2010, 18:04
"Bob, didn't Linhof sell a series of plastic clamp on hoods for Technikas? "

Yes, they also sold a lot of different compendiums also. Still do. But the clamp-on hood system was for use with the camera as a press camera, It was not for use with movements.

Robert A. Zeichner
9-Mar-2010, 18:11
http://web.mac.com/razeichner/iWeb/RAZP%20large%20pix/Shade%20pg%201.html

The above URL will take you to an article on how to build one. For the 110, you will probably want to use a slip on series 9 adapter and the next larger size of barn doors from LTM. I find this set up invaluable and easy to carry with my kit. I never shoot without it.

Jon Warwick
10-Mar-2010, 02:26
Heroique,

I am pleased to hear that you are using the Lee "wide angle" hood, given it was something that I was considering for the Super Symmar 110XL (I presume it could just attach straight onto the front of the lens with a Lee wide angle adaptor ring?). Have you found it wide enough to avoid vignetting (especially given the wide angle of view of the SS 110XL) -- I am particularly interested in hearing if vignetting is a problem when you use Front Rise, or how you can overcome that problem whilst still using this particular Lee shade?

Many thanks

Paul O
10-Mar-2010, 02:41
I used a B+W wide angle (metal) hood (77mm screw thread) on my 110XL with a 67-77mm step-up ring. Worked okay! Now use the Lee Wide Hood - no hassle!

CarstenW
10-Mar-2010, 03:03
Bob, I am buying a Linhof Master Technika, and will be using it with Schneider 90mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon and 210mm f/5.6 APO-Symmar lenses. Could you recommend the correct Linhof compendium for these lenses?

Bob Salomon
10-Mar-2010, 03:49
Bob, I am buying a Linhof Master Technika, and will be using it with Schneider 90mm f/5.6 Super-Angulon and 210mm f/5.6 APO-Symmar lenses. Could you recommend the correct Linhof compendium for these lenses?

001926

CarstenW
10-Mar-2010, 05:32
Thanks!

Heroique
10-Mar-2010, 11:03
Heroique,

I am pleased to hear that you are using the Lee "wide angle" hood, given it was something that I was considering for the Super Symmar 110XL (I presume it could just attach straight onto the front of the lens with a Lee wide angle adaptor ring?). Have you found it wide enough to avoid vignetting (especially given the wide angle of view of the SS 110XL) -- I am particularly interested in hearing if vignetting is a problem when you use Front Rise, or how you can overcome that problem whilst still using this particular Lee shade?

Many thanks

Yes, you can attach this hood directly to Lee’s adaptor ring (and I do recommend Lee’s more-expensive WA version, which is durable aluminum as opposed to high-quality plastic, and gives you a little more room for movements). My landscape shots usually don’t force me to push the 110XL to its great potential, so the hood, especially since it’s very flexible in many directions, almost never “gets in my way.” However, if I attach Lee’s standard filter holder to the adaptor ring (and use the hood’s backside rails to attach it to the holder’s outer-most slot), it has a greater tendency to do so. Especially if I want to use more than one filter (which is rare), and use movements too.

J.Medlock
14-Mar-2010, 10:09
Hi,

I have a 4x5 Toho field camera and have been using a collapsible rubber lens hood on my 110XL and Fuji 240A. I tend to get vignetting on the 110XL if I'm not careful. I've also found that the rubber hood doesn't work that great in blocking extraneous light in shading the lens; but it was only $14 or so.

The Lee WA Lens Hood looks like it would be tremendous improvement with the wide-angle adapter ring. I was wondering if the 'standard' Lens Hood (with wide-angle adapter ring) would work just as well for my two lenses? The 'standard' hood is about $100 cheaper than the WA hood (at B&H).

Regards

Heroique
14-Mar-2010, 12:34
I’ve used only Lee’s WA hood on my 110XL, but I suspect the standard version – though it will restrict your movements more – would still work in many landscape situations when movements aren’t a big issue. Not sure, but you might always have to push the bellows back to some degree. Even with the WA ring. Lee has good customer service by phone, and you can ask them.

The more you use filters (in a holder), the better match the WA version becomes. Be sure also to consider the slotted versions of these hoods – and how well they might work/interfere with rotating grads.

BTW, another feature I like about the WA version is the ability to rotate its more-rectangular shape to “match” the orientation of my ground glass. When I purchased the WA hood, I thought the extra $100 was worth it. Plus I use it w/ fine results on my 240.

timparkin
14-Mar-2010, 15:26
I hacked about with my lee lens hood a bit. I've attached magnet to the one on the lens hood and metal plates to the lee holder. This lets me mount the shade offset to compensate for movements. It's not perfect but it allows me to use multiple filters at different angles with suffering from vignetting (especially when using the SSXL 80mm lens).

http://www.timparkin.co.uk/blog/860165826236084689

Tim

J.Medlock
14-Mar-2010, 18:44
Thanks for all the great info.

I'll give Lee a call tomorrow, but I have another question in case someone knows the answer: does the Lee adapter ring allow a circular filter to be screwed on top of it? (e.g. after composing & movements, I'd screw on whatever circular filter I wanted to use for the shot.)

I have not used the Lee filter system before. All my circular filters are 72mm, so I have step-up rings on the 110XL and 240A. So I would purchase the Lee 72mm adapter ring, and it would screw into the step-up ring on each lens.

Regards

J.Medlock
16-Mar-2010, 13:11
Update:

I talked with Lee Filters, and:

(1) the wide-angle adapter ring does not have threads on front, although the standard adapter ring does so it can accept circular filters.

(2) There are 3 hood sizes (standard, medium, and wide-angle) and there should not be any vignetting with the 110XL if using the medium or wide-angle hoods. According to data at B&H, the medium hood has a 4.3" max extension, whereas the wide-angle hood has a 5.2" max extension. They weigh nearly the same amount.

I'm wondering if the barndoor style hood (referenced earlier in this thread) would be just as (or more) effective? I think it would be a lot heavier -- e.g. the LTM Pepper 200 (I think would be needed for the 110XL?) barndoor apparently weighs close to 3 pounds, unless I'm misinterpreting the spec sheet.

Regards