Super-XX processing

[Eric Constantineau]

Hi all,

I have a box of 8x10 Super-XX I want to use.

Box says :
Kodak Super-XX pan film, 4142, Estar thick base

Does anyone knows if it is ISO 200 ?

And How about processing... Did anyone processed super-XX here ? HC-110 ?

Thanks

[Robert Hughes]

What's Google say? In 1/10 second I found 34,400 references on the Web, and the very first link I clicked on gave me all the information you want to know.

Wanna know what it is? :confused:

Wouldn't you like to know ... :p

Or, as the old fahrts would say - DYODD.

[Daniel Stone]

last time I read up about super-xx, I read it was discontinued in '94 or '95. so that would give you approximately 15 years or so o.o.d. film in your hands, minimum.

I would shoot a scene of normal contrast, using the dakrslide in camera to do a "test strip" on a single sheet of film.

like this(just in case you can't understand my writing above, I'll explain in *detail*)

1. Take loaded film holder, compose, meter(a scene of preferably normal contrast)
2. Withdraw darkslide approx. 2" or so, shoot @iso 100(no use shooting iso 200 on film this old, even frozen). Keep w'd'ing darkslide, exposing in 1 stop increments until you get the slide all the way out, 2-3" increments for every exposure change. KEEP YOUR EXPOSURE THE SAME FOR ALL THE SHOTS, just like a test strip in the darkroom for a print.
3. Unload film from holder in darkroom.
4. Cut film into 4-2" strips, and process each at a time that would give you normal contrast with your choice of dev.

you might have to do this a few times, so you might just want to shoot 3 or 4 sheets of film of the same scene for testing purposes. use the extra strips for determining +/- development too, if you want(recommended)

oh... and if you actually plan on printing from these negs(not the test negs), you'll need to fit your film development TO THE PAPER you'll use, just like normal.

try out HC-110, or try pyro. preferably a dev you're already comfortable with for current dated films

-Dan

[RPNugent]

Might want to ask at Michael Smith's site since he still uses Super XX. He will answer ABC pyro I'm sure, but others may answer as well with different ideas.

http://www.michaelandpaula.com/mp/AzoForum/default.asp

[Michael Kadillak]

I picked up 5 boxes of 4x5 Super XX from the early 1990's and fixed a test sheet to see how much fog was present and was surprised that it was not that bad. Keeping it in a freezer is a good idea. The amazing this about this film is that it can print through an amazing amount of fog and still produce marvelous prints because the density curve goes to the moon on a straight line. I saw Michael Smith print negatives that had such edge fog that the film could be used to protect your eyes when welding. If you are going to contact print this film I would go with ABC pyro. That is what I am planning to use because I know that it works. If I wanted to projection print with it I would used pyrocat (because it is a finer developer) or HC110, D76 or ? Have fun.