wood tanks for sheet film?

[eli]

Because my psoriasis seems to be here to stay on my hands, I am not willing to tray process my 4x5 film and am wondering if acceptable tanks for film holders can be made from wood? I don't have the budget right now to find rubber tanks, though I do have plenty of hangers on hand and I've had good experiences with wood DR sinks in the past.

I am confident that I can construct tanks that can hold liquids well enough but I'd like to hear from others with experience or insights into the materials needed to do a good job on these. For example, will an ordinary exterior paint serve as a barrier between developer and wood or should I look for another material to protect the tanks?

Eli

[kev curry]

Eli, cant you just wear snug fitting Medical gloves to avoid any chemical contact, maybe the 'nitrile' type if latex was a potential irritant?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medical_glove

Failing that house hold 'Gloss' paint would easily resist photo chemicals. Seal the wood with a couple of coats of oil based undercoat then a coat or two of gloss. It would be better to pour the gloss into the wooden tank (dipping) and then pour it out, leaving it to drip dry hang upside down.

If you put the tin of gloss into a basin of boiling water and leave it for a bit it will become thin and runny, perfect for dipping while still maintaining a full bodied coat of gloss.
It usually takes a good few days for gloss to fully dry and harden thoroughly.

[Pete Watkins]

Eli,
There is a nice Patterson Orbital tank for sale on the Forum at the moment. Yoy need minimal contact with chemicals and with a decent pair of latex gloves it should really work for you. I also get psoriais at times but not on my hands.
Best wishes,
Pete.

[lenser]

Eli,

If you prefer dip and dunk processing. Porter's used to sell a very nice and inexpensive 4x5 tank with floating lid (you need three) that has served me for over thirty years. You might check and see if they still carry them.

You can find some good bargains on the E site as well if you are patient enough.

[Gem Singer]

Yankee Utility Tanks are made of plastic, hold two liters of solution, are inexpensive (about $15,new), and work great with stainless steel hangers.

Look for previously owned ones on eBay.

Wood is okay for sinks, but not the proper material to use for tanks.

[Tim k]

Eli,
If you have access to a table saw, you could use plexiglass, I'm guessing for about the same price as wood and paint. I just made a few for a dip and dunk line with my combi stuff. It was pretty easy. Got the plastic at the big box, and found some glue at a hobby shop. By the time I was done, I had a tank down to about an hour.
Good luck

[Nathan Potter]

If you use wood, glue all joints (Franklin Titebond glue), then epoxy paint, say three coats. The epoxy will discolor over time but not to worry.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Drew Wiley]

I don't get it. You'll have to use nitrile gloves to handle expoxy. I never do any kind of
processing without gloves. What's the difference?

[domaz]

Or go to Rotary processing.. easier on chemicals in the long run.

[jnantz]

family dollar or any homegoods/grocery even " odd lot / jobber " type store has tupperware-type containers that are great for using film hangers.
i have some rubbermaid ones from years ago (i think 3/4 gallon ? ) and they are squareish and cost a few dollars each, probably less than the wood and paint you will use.

good luck!
john

[eli]

Thanks for all the feedback, it's all helpful.

Right now, wood is more expedient and I have most, if not all, of the materials on hand, including Titebond glues, etc, as well as the time to use them. I do like the tip about pouring the paint, in effect, treating it like a potters glaze and I can use Kilz for an undercoat/sealer.

Gloves are not a good option for me, they trap enough moisture and heat that they worsen thing quite quickly. I've tried to use them for washing up dishes, etc and it's not a good option at this time. The friction also aggravates things on the knuckles and my hands already feel like they have second degree burns most of the time. This winter my hand have had an extra-bad time, spontaneous and deep 'cuts' pop-up often despite my medications.

When I can, I'll start looking for a proper set of tanks, I didn't know Yankee had a utility tank and other than the notches, it looks like a good stand-in to hard rubber Kodak tanks. I'll keep an eye out for Rubbermaid 'tanks' and similar when I'm at Walmart.

As far as rotary processing, this is not something I care to try. I like using hangers and the control they afford and I don't want to mess with a new way of doing film, though I would consider a Nikkor 4x5 daylight tank if I found one when the budget is right.

Cheers

[Gem Singer]

Eli,

The notches on two of the top edges of the Yankee Utility tanks are for holding stainless steel hangers. Easy to feel in the dark.

These tanks hold approx. 10 hangers. The notches keep them neatly separated.

Lighter weight and easier to clean than Kodak hard rubber tanks.

B&H has Yankee Utility Tanks listed (new) for $17.95, ea.

Used ones frequently show up on eBay.

[Drew Wiley]

One small word of caution about conventional plastic containers. They generally have
mould release compounds or plasticizers, depending. Scrub them well before use. I also
like to wipe them down with alcohol. Some residues will mess with your developer if not
removed first.