Developing help

[mcguireek]

I have been reading about large format for months now and finally made the decision to give it a try. My problem is that I have no dark room experience and I will have a pretty tough time finding a place to develop film (I live in the middle of nowhere in SE Idaho). What is the easiest method of developing film that I could get into here at home and is it possible for me to do as a beginner and get decent results? How much would it cost roughly for supplies?

[Bob Salomon]

A larfe changing bag and our HP Combi Plan daylight developing tank system.

[Maris Rusis]

Easiest? Develop film one sheet at a time in trays. If I were starting out I would buy a small pack of Xtol, a small bottle of rapid fix, three plastic trays from the local bargain store, follow instructions and go ahead. Total spend would be about $30.

Darkroom? All properly closed up rooms are darkrooms at night. Shoot during the day, develop at night.

This is what I did for the first few years. And because I shot 8x10 film and made gelatin silver photographs by contact I didn't even need an enlarger.

[percepts]

Developing film is really very easy once you have done it a couple of times.
Since you have no darkroom I would suggest you use a daylight processing tank. The best on the market currently is the Jobo 2521 tank with a 2509N reel. This a pro level tank but is very easy to fill and empty in daylight and unlike the combi plan, doesn't leak.
A lot of people have problems with the combi plan tank so Get a jobo. However, there is one downside to the jobo and that is that it requires 50% more chemistry than the combiplan when used for inversion prcessing. From personal experience I think it is worth getting the jobo.
I'm talking about hand processing with inversion here. If you use the jobo on a roller base (which you can't with a combi plan) then it uses a lot less chemistry than a combi plan. So a roller base is a very good thing. However, the 2521 tank is a bit short for use on a roller base so if you want to do roller base processing, then the bigger (longer) 2551 tank which takes one or two 2509N reels is the way to go.
So either the jobo 2521 with one 2509N reel for inversion processing or the jobo 2551 with one or two 2509N reels for roller base processing.
The 2509N reels take 6 sheets of 4x5 film each. The same tanks can be used for 120 or 135 film with Jobo 2502 reels. So the jobo system is infinitely more versatile than the agricultural combi plan tank.

Then all you need a is changing bag or tent which makes things easier for 4x5, some measuring graduates, a thermometer and chemicals, (a jobo roller base for the 2551) and you are set to go.

The film loading is done in the tent which you will need to load your darkslides anyway, and once the lid is on the tank, everything else can be done in daylight.
Then all you need is a darkroom for printing unless you are scanning to print digitally.

Really very easy to do with a little practice.

Also if you should later decide you want an automatic processor, then the jobo 2500 series tanks can be used on that too.

Tray processing sheet film requires a 100% light tight room and you have to work in total darkness which takes some getting used to. So if you only have a temporary darkroom space which has to be made light tight each time you use it (bathroom), which often leaves little light leaks, then you are better off using a jobo daylight tank for film processing. Very small light leaks won't cause much harm with paper but with film, which is much more sensitive, they will.

N.B. Jobo tanks are also supplied with cog lids for processing on a CPP-2 processor. Those tanks are the 2523 or 2553. For hand processing you don't want cog lids, so make sure you get the 2521 or 2551 tanks which have lids and not cogs and allow inversion (you can tip tank upside down without chemistry pouring out). You can buy cogs which fit top of tank later if you want to get a processor.

[Laura_Campbell]

I work with ortho films which can processed under a red safelight. I develop my film in my kitchen at night in open trays set up on the kitchen counter. I use Efke Print Film, which runs about $2 per sheet for 8x10, and develop by inspection under a red safelight. I develop in HC110 1:175, and fix in rapid fixer. Ortho films aren't for everybody but they sure work well with many of the alt printing processes.

One more note!
A changing bag is nice to have for field work but if you're staying close to home, all you need is a dark room to load film holders.
I only have three film holders and since I use ortho film, I load those in my kitchen under a red safelight.

You don't need a ton of gear, or an elaborate darkroom set up to make great images! Keep it simple until you have a better idea of what your needs are, and have fun!

[SteveKarr]

I'd get a Speed Graphic & make a set of the BTZS tubes for $20 & a few hours work. I have a Jobo & while it's the BOMB it's way over kill for you. You need film more than a fancy tank.

$300 and your shooting 4x5!!
Good Luck!
Steve

[percepts]

I work with ortho films which can processed under a red safelight. I develop my film in my kitchen at night in open trays set up on the kitchen counter. I use Efke Print Film, which runs about $2 per sheet for 8x10, and develop by inspection under a red safelight. I develop in HC110 1:175, and fix in rapid fixer. Ortho films aren't for everybody but they sure work well with many of the alt printing processes.

Agreed there are films which are less light sensitive but a beginner is likely to be using panchromatic film and not ortho. And may even be thinking of doing E6 or colour neg both of which can be done in the jobo tanks as well as B+W.

[Laura_Campbell]

I beg to differ. I feel ortho is equally easy for beginners because ortho can be developed by inspection. This allows for a visual understanding of the developing process. Of course the same can be accomplished with panchromatic films and pinacryptol yellow.

[percepts]

I beg to differ. I feel ortho is equally easy for beginners because ortho can be developed by inspection. This allows for a visual understanding of the developing process. Of course the same can be accomplished with panchromatic films and pinacryptol yellow.

What percenatge of people do you think start out using ortho film? And he didn't say he was going to be doing B+W so how can you conclude ortho film and developing by inspection is the best start.

[Laura_Campbell]

I think you're getting argumentative on a thread that is meant to provide options to a beginner. I have no desire to quibble with you.

[Merg Ross]

Easiest? Develop film one sheet at a time in trays. If I were starting out I would buy a small pack of Xtol, a small bottle of rapid fix, three plastic trays from the local bargain store, follow instructions and go ahead. Total spend would be about $30.

Darkroom? All properly closed up rooms are darkrooms at night. Shoot during the day, develop at night.

This is what I did for the first few years. And because I shot 8x10 film and made gelatin silver photographs by contact I didn't even need an enlarger.


I work with ortho films which can processed under a red safelight. I develop my film in my kitchen at night in open trays set up on the kitchen counter. I use Efke Print Film, which runs about $2 per sheet for 8x10, and develop by inspection under a red safelight. I develop in HC110 1:175, and fix in rapid fixer. Ortho films aren't for everybody but they sure work well with many of the alt printing processes.

One more note!
A changing bag is nice to have for field work but if you're staying close to home, all you need is a dark room to load film holders.
I only have three film holders and since I use ortho film, I load those in my kitchen under a red safelight.

You don't need a ton of gear, or an elaborate darkroom set up to make great images! Keep it simple until you have a better idea of what your needs are, and have fun!

Excellent advice from both. I would suggest that for the easiest method, you stay away from tanks; use trays and a darkened room in your house. As Laura wisely suggests, keep it simple; there is nothing simpler than tray processing, and it is very economical.

[percepts]

I think you're getting argumentative on a thread that is meant to provide options to a beginner. I have no desire to quibble with you.
I just asked two questions after you did some begging. I fail to see what is argumentative about that unless its purely a question of having a different opinion than you.

[Chris Strobel]

I have been reading about large format for months now and finally made the decision to give it a try. My problem is that I have no dark room experience and I will have a pretty tough time finding a place to develop film (I live in the middle of nowhere in SE Idaho). What is the easiest method of developing film that I could get into here at home and is it possible for me to do as a beginner and get decent results? How much would it cost roughly for supplies?

Well I have a small darkroom I built out in the garage in the mid 70's, but its pretty shot and dusty out there, so for the past few years I just develop in the bathroom.I just hang a piece of opaque plastic over the door and stuff a towel in the crack down at the bottom to keep the stray light out.I bought and tried a set of developing tubes for 8x10 negs, but find trays easier.For 4x5 I bought one of those slosher units from the formulary that fits in the tray and holds six negs.The whole process is pretty easy once you have done it a few times.I learned basically all by reading books and trial and error.Ansel Adams Book 'the negative' was and still is my bible for the processing side of things, and Steve Simmons book 'Using the View Camera' really helped with the camera side of things for myself.

C

[BetterSense]

Ortho is a good suggestion, due to ease of use. Consider Xray film, it's generally safe to develop under a red safelight as well. Trays work fine for developing, and HC110 is the cheapest and easiest developer to use.

[SteveKarr]

X Ray is the way to go ...

I just scored 500 sheets green for $95 on ebay. Fuji brand 100 asa in D76 1:1 8min with hangers. EEEEasy! and cheap.

[mcguireek]

Thanks for all the input. I really appreciate the advice. I have a few options to look into.