HP5 in D76 1:3 times

[sa11]

HI

I am looking to develop my 8x10 HP5 sheets in D76 diluted 1:3. I am using a unicolor tank and roller and am looking to try to avoid some streaking that I have experienced thus far using the rotary processor. I have theorized that my previous use of DDX at 1:1 results in streaks and splotches on parts of my negative that have uniform tonality (such as sky). This occurs when I pour in the developer, which takes a good 20 seconds. D76 at 1:3 is much more slow acting, and I have read about success with 1:3 in avoiding the problems I have experienced.

Does anyone use d76 at 1:3 with HP5 and have a good normal time to start out with? If you are not using a rotary processor or if you are, just let me know. Thanks a lot!

Scott

[jim kitchen]

Dear Scott,

Here is a good place to start... :)

Select your film, then select your developer.

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php

Do you want to print the images directly in the darkroom, or do you want to scan them for further use?

jim k

[Keith Tapscott.]

Ilford HP5 Plus Fact-Sheet. (http://www.ilfordphoto.com/Webfiles/2007321132461251.pdf)

[neil poulsen]

Why 1:3?

1:2 is easier to mix, easier to expand development, etc.

[Gem Singer]

Scott,

The streaks and splotches that you have been experiencing are probably the result of the method of agitation you are using, not the type or concentration of the developer.

DDX was formulated by Ilford as an ideal developer for HP-5+ film.

Try it at the 1+9 dilution from concentrate.

Use the times for rotary development.

[Robert Ley]

I am with Mr. Singer on this. DDX is a great developer, keeps well in concentrate and should be used at a minimum dilution of 1:4 and can be used at higher dilutions such as 1:9. Also, how much chemistry are you using in your Unidrum? When I used the 8x10 drum I used about 12oz/run if I remember correctly. Try the DDX again and I think that you will be happy with it.

[Brian Ellis]

While concentration in and of itself doesn't create streaks, in your case the length of time it takes to pour in the developer combined with the 1-1 concentration could be creating your problem so 1:3 is worth a try IMHO.

D76 is a great general purpose developer, it's been on the market for almost 100 years. I used it as my exclusive developer with HP5+ and TMax 100 for many years (at 1-1 but I used the BTZS tubes which don't require a significant pouring time). Rather than having to do your film speed and developing times all over again with a new developer (which by itself is not going to fix your problem) and having to familiarize yourself with the characteristics of a new developer I'd stick with what you know and presumably have tested, particularly when D76 by itself isn't causing the streaking problem.

[venchka]

If you do want a change......

I have been very pleased with HP5+ @ EI 250, Xtol 1:3, 68F, continuous agitation in a Jobo tank, start with 10 minutes. Vary to taste. I use a funnel and tube from the auto oil change section at Walmart to pour the developer into the tank. Start drum turning. Pour. Start timer. Dump with 25 seconds to go. Pour stop when timer buzzer goes off.

[sanking]

I am looking to develop my 8x10 HP5 sheets in D76 diluted 1:3. I am using a unicolor tank and roller and am looking to try to avoid some streaking that I have experienced thus far using the rotary processor. I have theorized that my previous use of DDX at 1:1 results in streaks and splotches on parts of my negative that have uniform tonality (such as sky). This occurs when I pour in the developer, which takes a good 20 seconds. D76 at 1:3 is much more slow acting, and I have read about success with 1:3 in avoiding the problems I have experienced.

Does anyone use d76 at 1:3 with HP5 and have a good normal time to start out with? If you are not using a rotary processor or if you are, just let me know. Thanks a lot!

Scott


Some years ago in a conversation with Fred Newman of the View camera store about BTZS technique he mentioned that he had been using D76 1:3 with drum processing of ULF film and that this eliminated some problems he had been having with streaking or uneven development with stronger dilutions. This make some sense to me, though I use pyro developers and never tried it myself.

I would suggest that you combine a presoak with the weaker developer dilution when developing in drums.

Sandy King

[Peter York]

I can't say much about your developer, but I do use unicolor drums for all of my film.

Try a presoak of the film, and also try mixing your chemicals with distilled water if the mottling remains. Use a sufficient amount of chemistry (I use 500ml for one 8x10 or 4-4x5). One other trick is to pick up the drum every minute and give an end-to-end slosh. Some argue that this helps redistribute chemistry that may be concentrating in certain areas because the rollers only have one axis of movement.

The drum I use has grooves to fit 1 8x10 or 4-4x5, and it leaves a space between these grooves which should be oriented towards the bottom of the roller. This allows you to pour in chemistry (how much I don't know) without film contact.

[venchka]

Smacks his head hard! Duh! I completely forgot to mention the pre-soak. I do that as well.

[ki6mf]

I use d 76 and HP 5 with a 1:3 dilution for the past several years. I recently changed from 1:3 to 1:2. By 1:2 I mean 1 part developer and 2 parts water. I changed as highlights were not coming our enough and I am using stronger developer to adjust my highlights.

My normal development time, N, is 14 minutes. N- is 2 minutes per stop down to N -3. N-3 would be 8 minutes with agitation once per minute. Beyond N-3 I use D 76 1:5 as compensating developer. Compensating times are 15 minutes with agitation every 2 minutes.

ISO based on my film speed test ISO is 300 for my Pentax V. For my Sekonic 758 the ISO turned out to be 200. I measured the EV on a gray card with my Pentax V then moved the ISO on the Sekonic till I got the same EV. I think you could use ISO 200 and then adjust ISO speed based on some test shots.

This was first tested for my gear at New England School of Photography and it is working fine. This will get you close for D 76 it won't work for other developers. That would require complete film speed and print testing.

I don't presoak as the long development times take care of any streaking.

[ki6mf]

As a follow up I would test prior to jumping in with my formulas and technique to see if they work the way you want. Also I am shooting 4X5 using HP Combi daylight agitation tanks!

[Allen in Montreal]

Scott,

I do not use the same drum as yourself, but I use HP 5 in D-76 at 1:1 for 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 and have never had streaks, unless I had not properly rinsed the lid between batches. With the Jobo 3006 (and others in the series), I have found flushing out the trap in the lid more critical than rinsing the actual drum. Just a small detail you want to keep your eye on.

I think your drums hold the soup until you flip the drum horizontally?
It takes me 15 seconds to fill the drums as they spin using this high tech tool. :)
Sorry if it does not apply to your drums, it works very well with the jobo.

http://img527.imageshack.us/img527/2079/jobofunnelx.jpg




HI

I am looking to develop my 8x10 HP5 sheets in D76 diluted 1:3. I am using a unicolor tank and roller and am looking to try to avoid some streaking that I have experienced thus far using the rotary processor. I have theorized that my previous use of DDX at 1:1 results in streaks and splotches on parts of my negative that have uniform tonality (such as sky). This occurs when I pour in the developer, which takes a good 20 seconds. D76 at 1:3 is much more slow acting, and I have read about success with 1:3 in avoiding the problems I have experienced.

Does anyone use d76 at 1:3 with HP5 and have a good normal time to start out with? If you are not using a rotary processor or if you are, just let me know. Thanks a lot!

Scott

[neil poulsen]

Why 1:3?

1:2 is easier to mix, easier to expand development, etc.

Actually, I meant 1:1.