Tmax 400 questions?

[wiggywag]

Hi!

After faithfully using Ilford FP 4 sheet film for a while, I'm testing out Tmax 400 (tmy-2) since I like the idea of increased speed.

After doing some initial film tests I have found out that the film base comes out more darker than the FP4 which has a very clear base. I have been doing extensive fixing and used Hypo Clearing Agent as recommended for this film so there is no pinkish cast left.

Also I find the T-max 400 having more coarser grain. I find the Ilford grain much smoother and more uniform.

The funny thing though is that this mostly affects the Tmax sheet film. When using Tmax 400 in 120 film format, I find the grain smoother and the film base clearer. How can that be? The emulsion is thinner in 120 compared to 4x5 sheet film, can this be the reason? Strange...

I also find that tmax 400 require longer exposures time when I print compared to FP4.

Anybody else with similar experience, is something wrong? I probably developed the sheets about 1 contrast grade too much, but I don't believe this could be the whole reason.

Also I wonder how the change to T-max 400 (if I'm going to do it) will affect my printing and the results compared to FP4?

[Gem Singer]

You are comparing a slow conventional grain film to a fast fabricated grain film.

There are bound to be differences.

Out of curiosity, if you wanted a similar fast film, why did you not switch to Ilford HP-5+?

[jp]

How did you develop it? What developer did you use? I rinse it for a minute or so before the developer to get rid of lots of indigo. I fix it for about 50% longer than other films.

Tmax is also a little more sensitive to development time and temp compared to traditional film, so it's worth redoing with what you consider properly developed negatives.

[Eirik Berger]

I have used TMY2 a lot last summer both as 120-film and 4x5". I exposed at iso 320 and developed in Xtol 1+1 (dont remember the time exactely). Presoaked before development. Got a relative clear base in both formats, at least the looked pretty much the same.

I good film, I will continue to use it as 120-film for my 6x9 roll film holder and medium format cameras. AndI will use it as sheet film for tricolor-work, where one must compensate 3-4 stops because of filters. But for regular BW-work in 4x5" I will stick to Fuji Acros which has been my standard film for years.

[Drew Wiley]

Sound like you have development issues. TM400 should have very little base fog in
sheet form.

[MIke Sherck]

I don't know what developer you are using. I use D-76 and Tmax film wants it mixed fresh. It doesn't like it so much even a week old. Developing Tmax films in oxidized developer looks a lot like your description -- base fog, low contrast, streaks, magnified grain, etc. Films with manufactured grain are more sensitive to processing variations than the more old-fashioned films such as Tri-X, FP4 or HP5+. Slight variations in processing can yield magnified differences from film batch to batch -- it isn't the film, it's the processing and handling. It takes practice to get it down right but is very rewarding once you learn it. TMX and TMY are all I use in 4x5 and TMY is what I'd use in 8x10 if I could afford it. However, in 8x10 I use HP5+.

Mike

[wiggywag]

I don't know what developer you are using. I use D-76 and Tmax film wants it mixed fresh. It doesn't like it so much even a week old. Developing Tmax films in oxidized developer looks a lot like your description -- base fog, low contrast, streaks, magnified grain, etc. Films with manufactured grain are more sensitive to processing variations than the more old-fashioned films such as Tri-X, FP4 or HP5+. Slight variations in processing can yield magnified differences from film batch to batch -- it isn't the film, it's the processing and handling. It takes practice to get it down right but is very rewarding once you learn it. TMX and TMY are all I use in 4x5 and TMY is what I'd use in 8x10 if I could afford it. However, in 8x10 I use HP5+.

Mike

Very interesting point! FP4 have never failed me, but I should be able to control TMY as well, since I use a Jobo processor with temperature control.

I have used Ilford DD-X 1:9 and Foma Excel 1:2 (similar to X-tol) and they gave very similar result. Both were freshly mixed.

I will reduce my developing time and check the effect. What would be the best developer for push processing? Doesn't seem like my developers are good for this with TMY, since it affects the grain so much?

[Ed Richards]

Get some Xtol. It really works well for T-grain films for LF. Those of us who use dilute Xtol - 1:3 - have good luck and do not find it esp. finicky.

[Richard M. Coda]

Never had a problem with TMax RS developer and any TMax film.

[ic-racer]

Seems like you have some old film. Try another batch from another supplier.

[Richard Wasserman]

I use both FP-4 and TMY-2 and develop in Pyrocat HD. I find them to be similar in terms of grain and base fog with TMY being maybe a bit finer grained with lower fog. They do look different though. They are both great films.

[wiggywag]

I have found out that my development times have been toooo long. I got some recommendations though a book that was very wrong.

Now I wonder which Xtol dilution do you prefer with TMY? And why?

[Ed Richards]

Xtol 1:3, 8.5 minutes, 70 degrees F. Full speed - 400. Perfect for scanning.