Fujinon 300mm A vs. W vs. C

[spacegoose]

Any impressions on the differences between these? I've read the A was made for reproductions and the C is optimized for infinity (and light weight for the field) - what about the W? Do any of these lend themselves more to portraiture vs. landscape.

Also, if buying a Fujinon A 300mm multi-coated used today, what's a fair price / range to pay? How will I know if the rear element is original. Would a dealer ever try to substitute a non-original rear element? I have seen on Kerry Thalmann's website the original Copal #1 shutter for this lens should have the non-serrated chrome edge.

Thanks,
sg

[Mike1234]

What size film? This is exclusively for landscapes and portraits?

[John Schneider]

Midwest had (the last time I checked) two EBC 300A's

[Gem Singer]

You can compare these Fujinon lenses at:

www.subclub.org/fujinon/index.htm

[Ken Lee]

Consider size/weight/max aperture/coverage/filter size/number of blades in diaphragm/price/availability

According to this table (http://www.willwilson.com/fujinonlc2.html), Fujinon made more than just those three, in 300mm length: A, W, C, L , SW, T, CM-W.

I have a 300mm Fujinon A, and love (http://www.kenleegallery.com/html/tech/index.html#300A) it. It has a 7-bladed diaphragm, and works well for portraits, close shots, and landscape. I've used it on 4x5 through 8x10. It's small, light, and takes comparatively small filters: 55mm.

[Drew Wiley]

The 300 A will perform superbly anywhere from very close range all the way to infinity.
The 300 C is not as good at very close ranges, but is a much lighter lens. If you are
thinking of using these on 8x10, the A is going to allow significantly more movement.
Both are very sharp and contrasty. Can't go wrong with either for 4x5 or 5x7.

[spacegoose]

I plan to use it for 8x10 but also have both a Speed and Crown Graphic I could use it on (I guess that would be some lens on 4x5). I'm mainly interested in portraiture. Do you think Midwest's price ($895) is fair for 9+ (whatever that means)? Still interested in any A C W comparisons, and the likelihood of a dealer not supplying original rear element - just being paranoid :eek:

Thanks!

[Drew Wiley]

Midwest is a very reputable source, and that is a very fair price for this lens.

[Ken Lee]

That's a great price. "9+" means it's in pretty close to perfect condition.

For 8x10 portraits, you can find many other lenses that will be larger and brighter, and probably more affordable. They will be larger and heavier. Some will be barrel-mounted only: no shutter.

For portraits, I'd rather use a Tessar or a Heliar, which open wider, have heavenly blur rendition, and smoother rendition in general. Unless you have something like a Sinar Shutter, getting them in a shutter makes them harder to find, and more expensive - but there are plenty of vintage lenses around in that length or longer, left over from the days when 8x10 and larger, was how good portraits were made.

Where the A shines, is as an all-purpose sharp lens: portable, compact, with superb performance at all distances.

[Robert Fisher]

SpaceGoose, Ben Syverson on this board uses a 300A for his portrait work - he does some great work. You will see his images in "Portrait" threads here and also Flickr.

[spacegoose]

Appreciate all the replies. I've seen Ben's work - one of the reasons for my considering the A, already have the W.

Thanks again everyone.

[BradS]

Would a dealer ever try to substitute a non-original rear element?
Thanks,
sg


I don't understand. Why would it matter? and, why do you suspect that the dealer has swapped rear elements?

If the original rear element were scratched, for example, and the dealer had another lens of the same model with a scratched front....why not take the good front element and the good rear element, screw them into the better of the two shutters and make one decent lens?

This stuff is mass produced...all 30mm Fujinon-C rear elements (assuming they are both roughly the same vintage) are the same (with in mfg tolerances).

[Richard M. Coda]

I have had a 300A since the mid 1980s. Use it for 4x5, 8x10 and a wide on 11x14. Great lens for just about anything.

[spacegoose]

I don't understand. Why would it matter? and, why do you suspect that the dealer has swapped rear elements?

If the original rear element were scratched, for example, and the dealer had another lens of the same model with a scratched front....why not take the good front element and the good rear element, screw them into the better of the two shutters and make one decent lens?

This stuff is mass produced...all 30mm Fujinon-C rear elements (assuming they are both roughly the same vintage) are the same (with in mfg tolerances).

I don't suspect it. Just being paranoid (e.g. :eek: ) and was wondering if it's something anyone has run into. Of course I wouldn't care if it were the same model rear element. Would only care if it were not as good - but still fit. I'm unfamiliar enough with lenses to know if that's even a possibility - for example are there rear elements that could be substituted and still deliver a plausible substitute for an A 300?

Since I'm getting this from Midwest, and their reputation has been affirmed here, the point is more or less moot - though I'm still mildly curious if anyone has run into :)

Thanks,
sg

[Henry Ambrose]

I have an "A" and previously a "W". In head to head comparisons I found no difference in performance near or far. They are both great lenses. The W is relatively huge and heavy and has a little more coverage.

If you are using a studio or monorail camera or don't care about size and weight a W will be great and costs a lot less than an A. If you value small size and weight more than your wallet, the A is the ticket for portability.

I might sell my A - I'm mulling over giving up 8X10 after selling my KMV. I especially liked that that camera would fold with the A lens attached. I've been holding the lens for the next camera but I think it might be a long while now. Write if you are interested in my A.

And I'll throw in that buying from Midwest is a wise idea. You won't have trouble and if you do Jim will fix it.

[BradS]

I don't suspect it. Just being paranoid (e.g. :eek: ) and was wondering if it's something anyone has run into. Of course I wouldn't care if it were the same model rear element. Would only care if it were not as good - but still fit. I'm unfamiliar enough with lenses to know if that's even a possibility - for example are there rear elements that could be substituted and still deliver a plausible substitute for an A 300?

Since I'm getting this from Midwest, and their reputation has been affirmed here, the point is more or less moot - though I'm still mildly curious if anyone has run into :)

Thanks,
sg

I think there are more realistic things to concern yourself with when buying a used LF lens in shutter. I'd be much more concerned about the health and condition of the shutter for example. I think that swapping rear elements with a completely unrelated lens would be very unlikely to produce a decent enough image to even be passable....besides, it would have to be a really dishonest seller to do such a thing....and then they would say something stupid like "I don't know anything about this lens".
Stick with reputable sellers and you'll be fine.

[Ben Syverson]

I've seen Ben's work - one of the reasons for my considering the A, already have the W.
Wow, cool! :)

Have not used the W, but I do find the A to be a faultless lens. I used the C for a little while too, but traded up to the A for the rare times when I need the extra coverage.

FWIW, I did not find the C to be compromised in any way close-up, though I did not stress test it as much as my A. But it looked to be another flawless Fujinon.

[Mike1234]

I don't suspect it. Just being paranoid. :eek:

Can't blame you for that... been scrood many many many many many many many many.... times.

[mikebarger]

I'm very happy with the performance of my Fujinon 300mm S

Mike

[Gem Singer]

Fujinon 300S?

There is an f8 300SW. A huge lens, in a copal 3 shutter, that has enough image circle to over 20x24.

I have owned and used a Fuji 300A, 300C, 300T, and a 300CM-W, and I'm not aware of a 300S.

[mikebarger]

This is a Fujinon 300mm 5.6 S in Copal 3 shutter. I have no idea how old it is.

Takes 82mm Filters.

Mike

[Vaughn]

I use the Fuji W 300mm regularly on my 8x10. While I have never used the A nor the C, I prefer the faster W because I work primarily in a dark environment (in the redwoods) and it makes composing and focusing easier. Out in the open, it probably does not make much difference.

Vaughn

[Ben Syverson]

A huge lens, in a copal 3 shutter, that has enough image circle to over 20x24.
!!!

That has me wondering who did/does wide angle work with 20x24. Anyone know? Honestly the only 20x24 work I've been exposed to is Polaroid portraits.

[Gem Singer]

The Fuji f8 300SW is listed as having a 720mm image circle and takes a 145mm screw-in filter.

Never saw one.

Don't know anyone who uses one.

It's one of those rare mythical lenses.

[spacegoose]

!!!

That has me wondering who did/does wide angle work with 20x24. Anyone know? Honestly the only 20x24 work I've been exposed to is Polaroid portraits.


I don't know - but check out this video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt-NraquF5E

and - http://elsa.photo.net/

http://www.20x24studio.com/bogardus.html

http://www.mammothcamera.com/

_really_ amazing video here too:
http://20x24studio.com/ - uses 600mm Fujinon A

Apparently 20x24 Polaroid film is still being made (for 3 years), and will subsequently continue to be made by 20x24studio. 20x24 Polaroid camera backs are apparently also available by custom order via Wisner.

[Gene McCluney]

Apparently 20x24 Polaroid film is still being made (for 3 years), and will subsequently continue to be made by 20x24studio. 20x24 Polaroid camera backs are apparently also available by custom order via Wisner.


I believe your information is out of date, or incorrect. Wisner is basically out-of-business, as he has pursued other hobby interests.

20x24 studio (I believe) purchased the remainder of the 20x24 film stocks from the defunct Polaroid film division, and is having fresh developer pods manufactured. It is the developer pods that are being made, not more film stock at this time. Developer pods are much lower-tech engineering than coating film. The only company in the USA that currently "could" coat the complex Polaroid-type film would be Kodak.

20x24 studio is implying that they have enough film stock to last for the next 3 years under their projected volume of business. They did purchase and install the "film spooler" which takes the factory coated large rolls of film and spools them down into camera size rolls. They are not making the large rolls of film stock, they are only using what they acquired from Polaroid. So the only equipment they have is the pod-making machine, and the film spooler.