Looking for Epoxy Paint to coat wooden sink

[D. Bryant]

Hello every one.

I'm hoping that someone can recommend a brand of Epoxy Paint that I can use to coat the interior of my wooden darkroom sink.

In the past I've use elastomeric paint and polyurethane, both have failed for long term use. I've stripped these coatings from my sink and repaired wood rot so I'm ready to seal the surface again.

I've read through a lot of posts and noticed some recommendations for epoxy paint that can be used on concrete floors. Will that really work on wood? And is it durable for a darkroom sink?

I've also found a product called Steelcote Epoxy listed on the net but I can't locate a dealer. Also I've found recommendations for GluvIT 2 part epoxy and West epoxy products for boating.

So I'm really confused about what product will make a good solution. Hopefully this group will share the best answer.

Thanks,

Don Bryant

[Kevin Crisp]

Epoxy resin would work as used for fiberglassing. West Marine has it.

[D. Bryant]

Epoxy resin would work as used for fiberglassing. West Marine has it.

Is there a specific product you can recommend from West Marine? I dread the thought of using fiberglass resin. I built a sink years ago using fiberglass resin and the fumes were over powering.

Thanks,

Don

[Kerik Kouklis]

I used this (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/) stuff right over plywood. I built my sink 15+ years ago and it's held up very well.

[vinny]

I used this (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/) stuff right over plywood. I built my sink 15+ years ago and it's held up very well.

what he said. I got mine from a boatbuilding place in oregon for about $20 less than west marine, shipped. That was about two years ago. I can't find the guy's info but originally found it on google.

[D. Bryant]

I used this (http://www.westsystem.com/ss/) stuff right over plywood. I built my sink 15+ years ago and it's held up very well.
Great that's what I needed to know.

Thanks Kerik.

Don

[Nathan Potter]

Yes, I've used the West System marine epoxy on a couple of sink units. Three to four coats put on thickly will be fine directly on plywood. Use white and as it gets stained and scratched over the years you can steel wool the surface and add a couple of new coats. My two sinks are now 20 years old and are fine. West 105 resin and 205 hardener. My newest sink is white polypropylene, also very nice.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.

[Allen in Montreal]

There is an easier way,
maybe not better, but easier if you wish,

I made my dad's darkroom sink from plywood and coated with four layers of Betoxy paint. It is not a real epoxy system as in part A and part B. just paint meant for waterproofing floors etc. Great stuff, 50 bucks a gallon, buy cheap brushes, there is no cleaning them really, toss them, and do a few layers and you are done.
The paint comes in white and black. Other companies may offer it other colors.

[D. Bryant]

Yes, I've used the West System marine epoxy on a couple of sink units. Three to four coats put on thickly will be fine directly on plywood. Use white and as it gets stained and scratched over the years you can steel wool the surface and add a couple of new coats. My two sinks are now 20 years old and are fine. West 105 resin and 205 hardener. My newest sink is white polypropylene, also very nice.

Nate Potter, Austin TX.
Nate,

What do you mean by white? I thought the 105 resin and the 205 hardener made a clear - amber colored coating. Is there a pigment or colorant that I can add?

Thanks,

Don

[Alan Butcher]

I used a Sherwin-Williams product Waterbased Tile Clad Epoxy which has held up for over 20 years.

Here is link, paint should be available at local store

http://protective.sherwin.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26234%3aproduct-6859

--
Alan

[D. Bryant]

I used a Sherwin-Williams product Waterbased Tile Clad Epoxy which has held up for over 20 years.

Here is link, paint should be available at local store

http://protective.sherwin.com/detail.jsp?A=sku-26234%3aproduct-6859

--
Alan
Thanks Alan. I'll check it out.

Don

[Henry Ambrose]

I've built several sinks and many other projects with West System material.

The West System epoxy is slightly amber colored. You can add colorant to it but you won't get a clean perfect white. Best thing is to paint it when completed.

You'll want to use one layer of fiberglass cloth over the wood with enough coats of resin to fill the weave of the material. This gives sufficient film thickness to make it truly waterproof.

Best way is to lay up the glass on the wooden parts before assembly, that way you have complete coverage of the wood even in the joints. Assemble with butt joints and build a small filet of resin in all the corners. You'll need some filler for the resin to do this. West Systems has everything you need along with --great-- technical support.

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

project articles:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/projects/

their magazine:
http://www.epoxyworks.com/

[D. Bryant]

The West System epoxy is slightly amber colored. You can add colorant to it but you won't get a clean perfect white. Best thing is to paint it when completed.


Hi Henry,

Can you recommend a colorant?



You'll want to use one layer of fiberglass cloth over the wood with enough coats of resin to fill the weave of the material. This gives sufficient film thickness to make it truly waterproof.

Best way is to lay up the glass on the wooden parts before assembly, that way you have complete coverage of the wood even in the joints. Assemble with butt joints and build a small filet of resin in all the corners. You'll need some filler for the resin to do this. West Systems has everything you need along with --great-- technical support.


This is a repair job, the sink is already assembled. I did however think about putting down fiberglass.

Thanks,

Don

[Bruce Pottorff]

Years ago I took my sink to a speed shop and had it coated with spray-on truck bed liner. Chem resistant, lasts forever, looks sharp. Easily beats paint coatings of any type.

[Matt Ellison]

I used epoxy resin from US Composites. I used 635 Thin Epoxy resin with medium speed hardener and two layers of fiberglass cloth. I applied about 8 coats in about 3 hours. Overall the epoxy worked great and would recommend it to anyone.

[Nathan Potter]

Don, I had to dig a bit but as mentioned, the West epoxy is not white. I had overcoated that with a white pigmented two part epoxy called Klenk's tub and tile enamel. Last overcoat was about 6 years ago for a laminar flow dust free hood. I may have obtained the Klenk's at Lowes or Home Depot. It is a very pure white.

Nate Potter

[sanking]

Nate,

What do you mean by white? I thought the 105 resin and the 205 hardener made a clear - amber colored coating. Is there a pigment or colorant that I can add?

Thanks,

Don


Don,

Yes, you can add colorants to the epoxy resin to make it whatever color you want. The colorant will delay the breakdown of the epoxy coating from UV.

You should coat both sides of your sink with the epoxy resin to encapsulate it and prevent expansion and contraction, which will eventually brak down the coating. If you leave one side bare it will absorb moisture easily from the air, then dry down, which causes the expansion and contraction.

Many years ago Sam and I coated a large sink at Clemson with just a coat on the inside of the sink and after three or four years there were cracks in the coating in several place.

Sandy

[D. Bryant]

Many years ago Sam and I coated a large sink at Clemson with just a coat on the inside of the sink and after three or four years there were cracks in the coating in several place.

Sandy

Sandy and all,

Well I've decided to use the West Systems epoxy, however I'm going to coat over a layer of woven fiberglass on the sink bottom and lapped up at the joints and corners. I think this will give me optimum strength. I may do as you suggest and coat the bottom side of the sink. I probably will add a colorant. I seem to be able to get all of the material at my local West Marine store which is close to my home.

BTW, West Marine has no affiliation with West System epoxy and coatings.

Thanks,

Don

[D. Bryant]

Don, I had to dig a bit but as mentioned, the West epoxy is not white. I had overcoated that with a white pigmented two part epoxy called Klenk's tub and tile enamel. Last overcoat was about 6 years ago for a laminar flow dust free hood. I may have obtained the Klenk's at Lowes or Home Depot. It is a very pure white.

Nate Potter
Thanks Nate. If I can't find a colorant for the epoxy then I may try that product.

Don

[D. Bryant]

I used epoxy resin from US Composites. I used 635 Thin Epoxy resin with medium speed hardener and two layers of fiberglass cloth. I applied about 8 coats in about 3 hours. Overall the epoxy worked great and would recommend it to anyone.

Hi Matt,

US Composites resins is a good alternative and less expensive than West Systems epoxies. Thanks for the tip.

Don

[robby parkman]

I have used the Sherman-Willians also.. good so far for 3 years.. also no smell

[D. Bryant]

Hello every one.

I'm hoping that someone can recommend a brand of Epoxy Paint that I can use to coat the interior of my wooden darkroom sink.

In the past I've use elastomeric paint and polyurethane, both have failed for long term use. I've stripped these coatings from my sink and repaired wood rot so I'm ready to seal the surface again.

I've read through a lot of posts and noticed some recommendations for epoxy paint that can be used on concrete floors. Will that really work on wood? And is it durable for a darkroom sink?

I've also found a product called Steelcote Epoxy listed on the net but I can't locate a dealer. Also I've found recommendations for GluvIT 2 part epoxy and West epoxy products for boating.

So I'm really confused about what product will make a good solution. Hopefully this group will share the best answer.

Thanks,

Don Bryant

Hello Everyone,

I just wanted to make a follow up post to this thread and report my results so others may benefit.

I went with the West Systems epoxy resin and it has worked very very well, however I'm still not completely finished.

The results aren't "pretty" but since this was my first experience with the material I'm pretty satisfied. I'll spare everyone with the details.

I can say if you are contemplating building a wooden sink include this material in your plans.

Don Bryant

[D. Bryant]

Just thought I would post a shot of the sink that is finished with West System epoxy. It may not be pretty but it is wonderful now! The epoxy skin stiffened the structure of the sink (not that it was really loose), and of course is totally water tight.


Don

[ChrisN]

Looks good Don! Inspiring too, as I'm about to commence making a sink myself. Did you paint over the epoxy layers, or put coloring in the epoxy?

[D. Bryant]

Looks good Don! Inspiring too, as I'm about to commence making a sink myself. Did you paint over the epoxy layers, or put coloring in the epoxy?

Hello Chris,

The final layers of epoxy were pigmented with the West white pigment. I should also point out that I added the West 403 filler to thicken the epoxy for coating vertical sides. The 403 filler is colored white effectively working as a pigment too.

Typically my batches were made using 150 ml of part A, and 30 ml of part B. Only the last coats of the epoxy were pigmented, per West instructions. So when I mixed the pigmented batches I added about 10 ml of pigment to part A & B. I then added filler until I thought it was thick enough. For the size batch mentioned I would add about 2 tablespoons of filler. I also used the 206 version of part B which cures a little slower.

I also made sure that I kept the darkroom warm 24/7 during the period that i was caoting the sink, about 70F. I also stored the epoxy in the darkroom to make sure it stayed at the same temp. and didn't get cold.

Good luck,

Don

[gary mulder]

Hello Chris,

I also made sure that I kept the darkroom warm 24/7 during the period that i was caoting the sink, about 70F. I also stored the epoxy in the darkroom to make sure it stayed at the same temp. and didn't get cold.

Good luck,

Don


If part A gets to cold it will form crystals. This can be reversed by slowly heating it up to ± 50C