Lubrication for darkslides in the cold?

[Heroique]

Last weekend, I was up in the chilly North Cascades when my darkslides began misbehaving.

They were difficult to open and close. And it wasn’t even that cold. Perhaps lower-to-mid 40’s Fahrenheit. A couple wouldn’t even budge! I’d been away from my warm car for merely 30 minutes when this began happening. It was quite frustrating. You can imagine the difficulty – I had to struggle with them when they were positioned in the camera. I kept knocking compositions out of whack. It was a dreadful afternoon. :(

It occurred to me I might lubricate them for future trips. But with what?

Below are the Fidelity Elite and Riteway darkslides I typically use. Any recommendations? Something safe for the film of course. And not potentially messy. Or maybe there’s a trick you know? Or a different darkslide design that’s better for winter?

(I do use my QuickLoad holder as a winter alternative, but my favorite b&w films aren’t available.)

[Bosaiya]

I use wax. I also tie a long cord to the ones that have the ring-style pull tab. That way I can just yank on the cord. The cord is attached to the camera, which is useful for when the darkslide comes flying out of my gloved hand.

[Eric Woodbury]

Maybe an anti-stat solution would provide enough lube and no static electricity.

[BrianShaw]

When mine get sticky I clean them scrupulously... and the tracks they slide in. No lubrication. YMMV since I wouldn't have little experience taking pics in 40 deg weather. :)

[Nathan Potter]

Wax is a good idea. A few years ago in Jan. around Steamboat Springs I had similar trouble at around zero degrees. Next day I used ski wax (red type) sparingly along the edge of the slide and found a great improvement. The wax can be later removed using acetone or xylene.

Nate Potter, Austin TX

[Bosaiya]

The great thing about wax is that you get to whip out your container of Dr. Zog's Sex Wax and frighten the people around you. Just chuckle and say "No no no, this? It's for my dark slide!"

[Robert Hughes]

The great thing about wax is that you get to whip out your container of Dr. Zog's Sex Wax and frighten the people around you.

I suppose this stuff come in a long tube?

Does it take AA batteries?

[matthew blais]

Dryer sheets...anti-static and puts a smooth coat of something for an easy slide

[kev curry]

Never used a lubricant but I did give it a light rub with some sandpaper... the edge of the dark slide that is!

[BrianShaw]

Given the delicate nature of that operation, I assume you used a very fine sandpaper -- like 600 or 800 grit... just to give it a bit of a polish on the edges?

[Keith Pitman]

Someone recommended "Brillianize" to me. The label says, "America's #1 Rated Anti-Statics Cleaner & Polish for Plastics, Glass & All Hard Shiny Surfaces." It does make the slides slippery.

[Toyon]

When mine get sticky I clean them scrupulously... and the tracks they slide in. No lubrication. YMMV since I wouldn't have little experience taking pics in 40 deg weather. :)

What do you use to clean them that doesn't damage the tape?

[BrianShaw]

Ummm, what tape? Seriously... I use Q-tip moistened with 99% alcohol to clean the tracks, and keep it away from the light seal and hinge materials. For the slides themselves, I swab them down with a moistened paper towel and make sure they are completely dried before putting them back in. Emphasis should be placed on my use of the term, "moistened". I suspect that alcohol (or my other favorite cleaning agent, lighter fluid) would mess up either of those parts.

[Bosaiya]

I suppose this stuff come in a long tube?

Does it take AA batteries?

It's normally rubbed by hand, or so I'm told. I prefer hot candle wax myself, which I suppose might be considered kinkier.

[Tony Karnezis]

Dryer sheets...anti-static and puts a smooth coat of something for an easy slide

Ditto

[Heroique]

Dryer sheets...anti-static and puts a smooth coat of something for an easy slide.


Ditto

Do you mean fabric dryer sheets – like Bounce?

Sounds like a clever idea, but just what is that “coat of something for an easy slide”?

I’m curious if it might harm the film.

[kev curry]

Given the delicate nature of that operation, I assume you used a very fine sandpaper -- like 600 or 800 grit... just to give it a bit of a polish on the edges?

Yes sorry Brian I've used some very fine grit wet and dry without water. The sort of stuff for car body finishing. It done the trick.

[erie patsellis]

The great thing about wax is that you get to whip out your container of Dr. Zog's Sex Wax and frighten the people around you. Just chuckle and say "No no no, this? It's for my dark slide!"

Now there's a name I haven't heard since my days of misspent youth in Daytona Beach. Sure beat getting to school on time in the morning.

[otzi]

I have found the small aerosols of Teflon dry lube work fine for all sorts of things. Make sure you don't get trapped with the oil based stuff. can be rubbed in with fingers where needed. Useless till it dries then it great.

[Bosaiya]

We used to use graphite on our skateboard bearings back in the day. That's where I first learned the technique of the controlled fall.

[BetterSense]

Dryer sheets...anti-static and puts a smooth coat of something for an easy slide


Sounds like a clever idea, but just what is that “coat of something for an easy slide”?

Dryer sheets and anti-static sprays are both basically animal fat/tallow. That's how they dissipate static. I always treat my film holders with static-guard spray.

[Alan Davenport]

Fidelity Elite and Riteway darkslides...

You mean, "film holders." The "darkslide" is the flat bit that you pull out to uncover the film.

Waxing the edges of the slides is the best way to keep them from sticking. A paste wax that you'd use on your car will do nicely.

[Heroique]

A quick review...

Waxes, fine-grit sandpaper, anti-stat solutions, 99% alcohol, graphite, Teflon aerosol dry lube, Fabric dryer sheets, static guard spray, automotive paste wax…

Who needs photo supplies when the hardware store is down the street?

And the folksy solutions fall within my budget.

But just to be safe, does any one of them pose a risk to films or emulsions? :confused:

I’m thinking not just by direct contact (esp. when loading or unloading), but more subtle reactions, too – for example, chemical exhalations or conversions, etc.

Any film scientists here?


[...] I also tie a long cord to the ones that have the ring-style pull tab. That way I can just yank on the cord. The cord is attached to the camera, which is useful for when the darkslide comes flying out of my gloved hand.

(An elegant chemical-free solution, especially for the Riteway's metal tab.)

[Bosaiya]

Who needs photo supplies when the hardware store is down the street?

Most of my shopping occurs at the hardware store.

[QUOTE=Heroique;525052]
(An elegant chemical-free solution, especially for the Riteway's metal tab.)

I can assure you that it is anything but elegant! Effective yes, but with all of the grace of a tightrope-walking elephant.

[Bosaiya]

Almost forgot, lately I have been using darkslides from the next largest size holder and cutting down the sides with a box knife so I can get a better grip on the tops.

Just, you know, be careful when cutting with those. I once had to cauterize a deep box knife gash with a hot fork.

[Jerry Bodine]

I’ve never experienced the difficulties you describe, not even in Washington’s wet cold Cascades, but if/when it ever occurs my first thought would be the Brillianize product (mentioned in post #11). More info at www.brillianize.com. It’s a terrific product, recommended to me by TAP Plastics (local store - just off Hwy 520 near the Evergreen Point bridge) where I have acrylic sheets cut for use as an alternative to picture frame glass and have noticed no adverse interaction with print emulsions, so I wouldn’t expect it to harm film either. I use it to clean/polish the acrylic as well as an anti-static, and it makes the acrylic slicker than snot! Spray a little on a soft microfiber cloth and wipe it on the darkslide, then before it dries polish with a dry soft cloth to create a slippery surface. I would not apply to film guide unless really necessary since only one surface needs to be slick – e.g., rubber tires on ice. This stuff is also promoted for use on aircraft windshields so it should work well under icy conditions.

BTW in freezing conditions I’ve formed a habit of keeping my hot moist breath from getting on my holders and freezing; and even when necessary I wear a bandana over my nose to deflect my breath downward and prevent condensation on the groundglass during focusing with a loupe.

[Heroique]

[...] My first thought would be the Brillianize product (mentioned in post #11). [...] I have noticed no adverse interaction with print emulsions, so I wouldn’t expect it to harm film either.

[...] BTW in freezing conditions I’ve formed a habit of keeping my hot moist breath from getting on my holders and freezing; and even when necessary I wear a bandana over my nose to deflect my breath downward and prevent condensation on the groundglass during focusing with a loupe.

Thank you, Jerry (and Keith Pitman from post #11).

Two more "secrets" to spread among the cold-weather LF-ers here! ;)

[Ben Hopson]

Like Jerry, I have never had a problem with darkslides becoming difficult to remove or insert in my holders in the cold, wet northwest or even colder climates than ours for that matter. I would make sure the edges of your darkslides are smooth, having no nicks or rough spots. If they do, a light sanding with very fine paper would definitely help.

The Brillianize anti static cleaner is a great product though I have not used it on darkslides. I will if I ever have a sticking problem.

Ben

[Philippe Debeerst]

I had the same problem a few years ago when I had to shoot industrial cool-stores in the Antwerp harbour (a digital camera cloud not stand the -24°C cold...). Then I got the idea to lube the dark slides with gun oil. I use the old and trusted German made BALLISTOL which I always carry in a small 50 cc bottle. Good gun-oil is meant to stand extreme situations, rough climates and 'the heat of the fire'. Ballistol is partly organic and it smells fine. It does not stick because it dries somewhat and penetrates in the fine surface structure/scratches, what it actually has to do to lubricate. It prevents synthetic materials like rubber to become brittle and cleans, protects and cures leather, wood and bellows, not to mention the human and animal body, too. What does a photographer wants more?
See www.ballistoluk.co.uk for more.

Philippe