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View Full Version : Pyro in tanks now ...



SteveKarr
3-Oct-2009, 18:48
Ok, for those who know, I stained the Ba-Jesus out of the kitchen last week with my first Pyro attempt. Great...

This week I want to do 810 in a 1 gallon deep tank with hangers ... I have Max Pryo. How do I use the stuff? I can mix it like roll film 1:1:100 but how many sheets & how fast do I need to use it up? I can get 4 sheets a time safely in a 1 gal tank. The stuff is super expensive in reference to PMK so I don't want to throw a gallon after 4 sheets. $40- shipped for 5 liters.

How about BTZS tubes? (or home made)

Is there any place with info for other developers (Rodinal& HC110 really) and replenishment in deep tanks?

Thanks everyone...
Steve

eddie
4-Oct-2009, 04:02
sorry. not much help. why max pyro? i mix my own pyro hd (no stains on the counter) for pennies. i think the initial outlay is like $75. so far i had to buy only one more chemical (for solution B) and have made like 7-8 batches already.

i am not sure about max but for pyro hd you need like 2.8 ml of puro hd per 8x10. so you will be able to do a sh!tload with a gal mixed at 1:1:100 if it is similar. i do not believe it keeps so long.

work with trays or get cheaper developer. i use between 1000 and 1500ml when using trays and 8x10 (depends on how i feel....it is much "easier" with 1500)

you can get hc110 replenishing info from kodak...but IMO you are making it more difficult than necessary. i use hc110 one shot at higher dilutions....which is what you should do if you are using 1 gal. i use dil at 1:119 and 1:63. (just keep doubling the times from the dil B (1:31) initial time)

eddie

Eric Woodbury
4-Oct-2009, 12:29
Steve, I don't know how much I can offer. I would not use MaxPyro in a deep tank. It would last awhile, but not that long. Try trays or tubes. I have just switched to tubes from Jobo expert tank. I made my own from ABS pipe and use about 250cc per 5x7 sheet. Works fine. I'm using HP5+ and my own version of a pyro developer that has about 1/2gr per liter of pyrogallol.

EdWorkman
4-Oct-2009, 12:38
Jim Fitzgerald reported in a very recent post about 8 8x10 1+1+150 I think, using hangers. A short search should reveal it

Harald Leban
6-Oct-2009, 05:28
Ok, for those who know, I stained the Ba-Jesus out of the kitchen last week with my first Pyro attempt. Great...

This week I want to do 810 in a 1 gallon deep tank with hangers ... I have Max Pryo. How do I use the stuff? I can mix it like roll film 1:1:100 but how many sheets & how fast do I need to use it up? I can get 4 sheets a time safely in a 1 gal tank. The stuff is super expensive in reference to PMK so I don't want to throw a gallon after 4 sheets. $40- shipped for 5 liters.


Steve,
Iīve offered my new pyro formula here in the LF forum (Beutler Pyro) for free.
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=54134

Itīs a simple but effective formulation which lacks any kind of aerial oxidation/stain and keeps maximum++ film speed. I have originally created it for rollfilm but it works also great with large format. You can use it in trays, tanks or rotation - with low costs.

Maybe you have some possibilities to mix it or Photographers Formulary may help....

Harald

Michael Kadillak
6-Oct-2009, 06:26
The reason that you cannot use pyro more than a one shot developer in any receptacle (tanks, trays or ?) is because it is acidic and exhausts. It is possible to run a couple of processing cycles through it in succession but its useful time is limited.

Tank processing is best done particularly with multiple formats (rolls and various sheet sizes) is best done in tanks with a developer that you can replenish (essentially measure the number of units of film that has been processed and compute how much old developer must be removed and replaced with new developer). Saran wrap is placed over the tank to keep it from interacting with the air and a lid is put over this as well until it is time to do another processing run. Gas burst works well in tanks as does dip and dunk manual processing. Developers that work well with this tank technique are Xtol and Harveys 777 just to name a few.

Pyrocat in one of its variations mixed yourself is one of the cheapest and most effective developers to use because it is used in such low concentrations. A couple of liters if pyrocat using 1:1:100 or 2:2:100 quantities last a long time indeed. Because of the low concentrations of pyrocat I have used it as a one shot developer in tanks as well.

Cheers!