Sierra Nevada, Lee Vining to Death Valley

[Pat Kearns]

My wife and I flying to Reno the last week of October and heading south along the Sierra Nevada. I've been down to Lee Vining but never any farther south along the range. What are some "don't miss areas" between Lee Vining and Death Valley. We are hoping to make it to Death Valley for 2 days so what would be the "don't miss areas" in Death Valley.

My wife wants to try panning for gold, so are there any mines open to the public where she can try her luck prospecting? Thanks for all suggestions.

[Ted Stoddard]

Pat, I say the following in that area are Alabama Hills, The Ancient Bristlecone pine forest elev @10,000 ft., Bodie Ghost Town... Mono Lake and that is my opinion... if you never been to these places that is... Just my 2 cents worth.

[Jim Galli]

You should get lots of replies as this stretch is every photographers playground. Bodie and Mono Lake are usually considered don't miss. The June lake loop is always spectacular as is Convict lake. I fear you'll be about 3 weeks late for fall aspen color as yesterday the tops of some of the trees were just beginning to get yellow. The Slim Princess at Laws RR Museum just N or Bishop is dis-appointing compared to what it could be, but if you're a rail fan you may need to have a look. I think the Ancient Bristlecone forest E. of Big Pine is HUGE. That's just me. The higher you go the better they get. On your way, stop at Keough's Hot Springs and soak some of the dust off in their 1918 olympic sized pool. It's really gorgeous and the most refreshing stop you could ever make. If you could book one of their restored 1923 cabins for a night you'd never forget it. As to Death Valley, check the average temperatures over several years for the week you're considering. Being a local, I'm dismissive of Death Valley until about January 15th. Remember it's very dry heat and some folks just love it I guess. They're barely open at the end of October. The Sunday Buffet at Furnace Creek Inn should not be missed if it works out at all. After DV leave a couple of hours for a stop at the Amargosa Opera House. There are pictures yet to be mined there. If you wander by way of Tonopah, give a holler. I'll be gearing up for the workshop there the following week. (read cleaning up my messy darkroom and studio)

[Jeff Conrad]

"Don't miss" areas? Pretty much everything between Lee Vining and Lone Pine; without knowing your interests, there are too many to mention, though I'm sure others will have many specific suggestions. I'd recommend getting a copy of Sue Irwin's California's Eastern Sierra: A Visitor's Guide for an idea of what some of the places look like. You'll probably find there are far more places than you have time for.

If the year is typical, the fall color will be pretty much over for most of the area, but it may just be starting in the town of Bishop.

Galen and Barbara Rowell's Mountain Light Gallery (http://www.mountainlight.com/) in Bishop is worth a stop if you have the time.

[anchored]

ahhh.... you'll need at least two weeks to see half of the Must See places in Death Valley and its surroundings! I've been there twice and have barely scratched the surface of places to see.

For a "different" view of DV, explore the hills surrounding the Valley. Aquerreberry Point is phenomenal, as are various abandoned gold mines scattered thru the mountains. Lots of abandoned old vehicles (if that's your thing) are scattered far and wide throughout the countryside... especially around the abandoned mines.

The obvious Must See's in DV would be the dunes, the salt flats, Devil's Raceway, and a bit away... Rhyolite ghost town. I'll second Jim's suggestion of Furnace Creek... very good eats! But then again, there's not a lot of other places offering food of any description in that neck of the woods..... (used loosely... woods are not to be found).

[Preston]

If your bride has never been to Mono Lake, take her out to the South Tufa area for sunrise. It's very magical.

As others have said, the autumn color will be pretty much toast by then, but the big cottonwood trees around Bishop should be looking pretty nice and other trees in Owens Valley may look nice, as well.

Two areas that have not been mentioned are McGee Creek and Rock Creek/Little Lakes Valley. They are virtually 'next door' to one another. There is a nice trail going up the McGee canyon that has spectacular views of the mountains. If you go to Rock Creek, head up to Mosquito Flat and hike up into Little Lakes Valley. The trail head is very high, so the hike isn't too difficult. The view of Bear Creek Spire, and Mounts Dade ,Abbott, and Mills is very much worth the effort.

Big Pine Creek and Independence Creeks are also very nice. There are gorgeous views of the north face of Mount Williamson (reputed to be the most massive peak in the range) from the road up Independence Creek to Onion Valley.

The Alabama hills are a 'no-miss' stop. One could literally spend days wandering around there: I have, and I haven't even scratched the surface. The drive up Whitney Portal Road to Whitney Portal is stunning, and there is a nice waterfall 50 feet from the parking area. It's a great place to have lunch and poke around during the heat of the day.

As Jim said, DV will be hot. However, if this trip is your only shot at it, you should seriously consider going there.

I should also mention that Tuolumne Meadows in Yosemite is easily reachable from Lee Vining, if Tioga Pass is open. In late October, Tioga is a crap shoot because a storm could close the pass in short order.

Have a great trip!

-Preston

[anchored]

A PS if you do much in the way of off-main-road travelling: Last trip there, on the road (word used loosely) up to Aquerreberry Point, we suffered two punctured tires in two days (4-ply highway tires as supplied on rental SUV's). You really need off-road or at least 8-ply tires for some of the "roads."

At least be sure to check that the spare and jack is in good order... if you get off the main roads there's lots of areas in DV without cell service and lots of off-road areas that won't see a car for days.

[dsphotog]

AAA has an excellent Death Valley map. A great guide.
Death Valley is a lot bigger than one might think!
I like Zabriskie Point at sunrise. Then up the steep road to Dante's View @ 5475 elev. (great in the morning or sunset.)
Sand Dunes- best at sunrise (before other folks footprints)
The ruins at Rhyolite - great any time or sunset.
We stay at Stovepipe Wells, and/or the Burro Inn in Beatty.(gas etc is cheaper there)
It can be hot in the valley & really cold at the higher elevations.
Bring about twice as much film as expected!

[Jeff Conrad]

AAA also have an excellent Guide Map for the Eastern Sierra--an absolute must have, even if you're not a member and need to purchase it from the Forest Service in Lee Vining or at one of the stores along U.S. 395.

A few thoughts on sunrise locations along U.S. 395: Mono Lake South Tufa Area, north of Bishop (facing Mt. Tom), Bishop Creek near Aspendell, and the Alabama Hills west of Lone Pine. You'll need to do at least some brief scouting the day before to find the right spot, especially near Aspendell. It is indeed possible to spend many days exploring the Alabama Hills, and it's equally possible to spend endless hours looking for the perfect sunrise spot. No need, especially if you're pressed for time--try the Movie Flat area west of Lone Pine or Tuttle Creek Rd. southwest of Lone Pine. You will of course, need to give it a quick look the day before, but there are many good spots right off the roads.

I completely agree about the heat in DV, so it might be worth including it as a possibility subject to the weather. Sunrise spots that I like are Rhyolite, Zabriskie Point, Badwater, and the Mesquite Dunes (near Stovepipe Wells). For a sunset, try either the Mesquite Dunes (footprints can be a problem, but the only thing that removes them is a good wind or rain, so they may be as good in the evening as in the morning). Another sunset spot is Golden Canyon (just south of Furnace Creek and west of Zabriskie Point)--near the beginning of the trail that heads up to Manly Beacon (and on to Zabriskie Point), you can get some nice light on the Red Cathedral as well as on Manly Beacon.

I find Furnace Creek a bit pricey, and usually stay in Beatty or Stovepipe Wells--the former for Rhyolite and the latter for the dunes. The downside is that both are a bit of a drive from the spots around Furnace Creek.

For some good eats, try the Seasons in Lone Pine; with a chef named Jeff, you know you can't go wrong. Full disclosure: I haven't been there for a couple of years.

I could go on forever, but I'll stop here for now.

[John Jarosz]

Bristlecone Pine Forest is truly unusual, and it makes you stop and think when you realize that you're looking at some of the oldest living things on earth. Good photographs too.

There is a really cool western wear store in Lone Pine.

The motels in Lee Vining are minimal/colorful depending on your point of view.

Cerro Gordo ghost town, while not as picturesque as Bodie, has some grand vistas from the road to/from. You should have a 4wd, the road is steep but not horribly so. The vistas are looking west/south, The last time I was there the smoke obscured almost everything. The road to Cerro Gordo leaves from Keeler.

I'll recommend "California Desert Byways" by Tony Huegel

Great trip.

John

[Jim Galli]

lol, if you rent an SUV and they offer extra cost insurance that covers the tires...............:D:D..............buy it.

[tgtaylor]

Since you only have a couple of days to see such a vast area, you clearly won't have time to scout for locations and wait for best light. If you're like me you'll want to come away from your trip with a bunch of great photos which means you will be shooting throughout the day including when the lighting is at its harshest.

One way to accomplish that is to use an 81C (or even stronger) warming filter in conjunction with a polarizer with the latter always on the outside. On my first trip to the Alabama Hills area I was confronted with the same problem except that my trip was in mid summer when "best light" extended for about 45 minutes past sunrise and sunset. The place was literally smokin' the rest of the time. I bit the bullet and contrary to the admonitions of Galen Rowell used those two filters feeling guilty the whole time and not expecting much because of the light. I was amazed when I got the chromes back from the lab. A little twang of 'sinners guilt' remains, but those slides are a joy to view and that's what I was after at the time.

Thomas

[Brian Ellis]

If you have to pass on anything mentioned I'd pass on Bristlecone Pine. Not only is there a major risk of a flat tire if you go to the top but I didn't find it all that great when you get there. I was told by the Park information people that with new tires I'd have no flat tire problems as long as I stayed under 20 or so miles an hour. Which I did. And still got a flat tire. It isn't a fun "road" on which to have a flat tire. There are just so many other things to photograph and you have such little time that I just don't think Bristlecone Pine is worth the time and effort. Just my opinion of course.

[dsphotog]

Gold panning is done mostly on the west side of the Sierras, Jamestown (near Sonora)
has a historic (Tourist trap) panning site. It's cute but a long way from Reno.
I think finding most of the gold on the east side required lots of digging.
My free advice.... Dude, just buy her some jewelry!

[Darren Kruger]

If you have to pass on anything mentioned I'd pass on Bristlecone Pine. Not only is there a major risk of a flat tire if you go to the top but I didn't find it all that great when you get there.

The road is paved to Schulman Grove. Lot of good trees there.

-Darren

[Don7x17]

Cerro Gordo ghost town, while not as picturesque as Bodie, has some grand vistas from the road to/from. You should have a 4wd, the road is steep but not horribly so. The vistas are looking west/south, The last time I was there the smoke obscured almost everything. The road to Cerro Gordo leaves from Keeler.

John

Both extreme end of road for Bristlecone Pines and the grade to Cerro Gordo can be real tough on rental SUV 4-ply tires. Both are excellent locations. The vista in the morning from the grade to Cerro Gordo of the lakebed and Sierra behind is spectacular on a crystal-clear day.

For a real thrill, go east from Cerro Gordo to the Racetrack. Don't attempt if you are alone, don't have real 4WD skills, and aren't prepared for some serious 4WD issues.

Don

[Drew Wiley]

"Don't miss" in two days ??????????????????????????????? Well, you could hang out
at the Mountain Light Gallery to see what the Sierra never, ever actually looks like,
except digitally exaggerated. Otherwise, pick one spot like Mono Lake or the Bristlecones or whatever. You'll have just enough time to regret you didn't spend a
week. For all the "must sees" I recommend about 200 years or more.

[John Jarosz]

Well, you could hang out at the Mountain Light Gallery to see what the Sierra never, ever actually looks like, except digitally exaggerated.

I'm glad someone said it.........

[Preston]

"For some good eats, try the Seasons in Lone Pine; with a chef named Jeff, you know you can't go wrong. Full disclosure: I haven't been there for a couple of years."

I took my new bride there in May of last year on our honeymoon. The food was wonderful, and the service impeccable. It was a bit pricey, but the value was beyond any reproach. Highly recommended, and reservations are must.

Also, as Jeff says, there are some very nice locations on Tuttle Creek Road. I'll add Horsehoe Meadow Road (left, off the Whitney Portal Road). There are some grand views of the Sierra, and some nice locations in this southern-most end of the Alabama Hills.

-Preston

[Brian Ellis]

I'm glad someone said it.........

Yeah, it was really a funny thing to say, in view of the fact that for most of his career Rowell used Nikon cameras and Kodachrome film, while many of the Gallery's featured artists such as Jack Dykinga, David Muench, Vern Cleninger, and Justin Black are large format photographers.

[Ted Stoddard]

I can't remember the name but there is a Deli along 395 which has some awesome food... Maybe someone else on here can refresh my memory? Its definitely a great place to eat at...

[Jim Galli]

I can't remember the name but there is a Deli along 395 which has some awesome food... Maybe someone else on here can refresh my memory? Its definitely a great place to eat at...


Whoa Nellie Deli at the Mobil gas station where 120 turns off for Yosemite.

[Ted Stoddard]

Thanks Jim, Its been a while since I been that way....

[Drew Wiley]

You can afford a $35 elk burger? There used to be a fabulous little breakfast place
in Independence. Wonder if it is still there? Haven't found any good food in Bishop yet.
You might also see if Claude Fidler's gallery is still open in Bishop. He's got a lot more respect for actual light than the kind of whorish tourist trash featured at Mtn Light.

[Eric Brody]

I'll recommend eating at Seasons in Lone Pine. I was there in March 2009 and in a few short days managed to have three fabulous meals there.

Eric

[tgtaylor]

Whoa Nellie Deli at the Mobil gas station where 120 turns off for Yosemite.

The Deli may not be open in late October/November as it closes now when the tourists season ends. The pumps remain open.

[Mike Lewis]

I agree with Drew-- spend some time at one or two spots and don't attempt to cover it all. Alabama Hills are good, so is Mono Lake. Whatever you do, don't stop for gas at Lee Vining ($$$).

[Dave Henry]

My newspaper runs a six-week project reporting on the fall color in this area. I started shooting the foliage story 30 years ago. With the internet we began doing daily color updates and photos and includes an interactive map. It might be helpful to your trip. Feel free to email me on the web site if you have any questions. Even though I shoot in the digital world now, I've been shooting LF since the mid-sixties. You will love it over here.

http://www.sacbee.com/leaves

Dave

[Dave Henry]

You can afford a $35 elk burger? There used to be a fabulous little breakfast place
in Independence. Wonder if it is still there? Haven't found any good food in Bishop yet.
You might also see if Claude Fidler's gallery is still open in Bishop. He's got a lot more respect for actual light than the kind of whorish tourist trash featured at Mtn Light.

Wow Drew, that's pretty harsh. Galen was a friend of mine and while his style differs from mine, I still respect the man's talent. Vern Clevenger is another great photographer in the area. He has recently moved his gallery to Mammoth 220 Sierra Manor Road, Unit 4. I spend six weeks in Bishop during the fall foliage season every year. I can usually be found several times a week at BBQ Bills across from Mountain Light Gallery. Great salad bar including ribs!

[Michael Cienfuegos]

Wow Drew, that's pretty harsh. Galen was a friend of mine and while his style differs from mine, I still respect the man's talent. Vern Clevenger is another great photographer in the area. He has recently moved his gallery to Mammoth 220 Sierra Manor Road, Unit 4. I spend six weeks in Bishop during the fall foliage season every year. I can usually be found several times a week at BBQ Bills across from Mountain Light Gallery. Great salad bar including ribs!

Ribs in a salad bar? That's my kind of chow! Yum! :p :p :p :p

[sidmac]

Don't pass on the Bristlecones. We drove our 2003 Forester to the Patriarch Grove with no ill effects. The worst thing is the dust both on the road and in the Grandview campground. If you go , the campground is free but you must bring your own water and take out your garbage. The tree pictured here is in the Schulmamn Grove
Enjoy

[Dave Henry]

I only mentioned "salad" so that it seems more healthy to me. They keep the rib tray well stocked. You can't beat it.

[Drew Wiley]

Dave - Galen lived in my neighborhood, right next door to one of my hiking pals. I
mean no disrespect to him as either a human being or as the notable climber and
explorer that he was. At the private level he never pretended to be an artist; rather
that was his marketing personna. However, I will stand by my statement that his
work "as currently marketed" is something I find extremely distasteful. When you
take a naturally beautiful woman (the Sierras) and somehow feel compelled to
slather her with cheap perfume, a tawdry wig, suggestive tattos, a glops of garish
digital makeup, what does that imply?

[Drew Wiley]

(Unrelated to my previous post above): Just returned from backpack to upper Hilton
Creek area. Aspens are peaking dramatically around the 10,000 foot level, with
plenty of yellow, orange, and some red, especially on the moraines. Great color on
upper Rock Creek and upper McGee Cr. Guess it will be about two more weeks for
the aspens to turn at June Lk, Conway Summit, and lower Lundy Can, unless there
is a sudden cold snap. Weather has been mild. Didn't take any aspen shots myself
this trip, but thoroughly enjoyed their color on what would otherwise have been a
long dusty moraine trail. Davis Lake had a huge backdrop of yellow-orange aspen,
but this is at least an overnight hike with large format gear (about 12mi round trip).

[Jim Galli]

Dave - Galen lived in my neighborhood, right next door to one of my hiking pals. I
mean no disrespect to him as either a human being or as the notable climber and
explorer that he was. At the private level he never pretended to be an artist; rather
that was his marketing personna. However, I will stand by my statement that his
work "as currently marketed" is something I find extremely distasteful. When you
take a naturally beautiful woman (the Sierras) and somehow feel compelled to
slather her with cheap perfume, a tawdry wig, suggestive tattos, a glops of garish
digital makeup, what does that imply?

This says more about the public's tastes than it does Mr. Rowell. He was just trying to make a living. My pictures may be artistic (or not) but the fact remains, I have to give them away.

[Pat Kearns]

Well everyone, we leave in the morning. Thanks for all the advice and suggestions.