4x5 chemistry quantities.

[sgelb]

i know this is a total retard question, but how do you calculate how much developer you need for 40 4x5 sheets? stop? fix?

[Joanna Carter]

i know this is a total retard question, but how do you calculate how much developer you need for 40 4x5 sheets? stop? fix?
That very much depends on the type of tank you are going to use. With a CombiPlan, you need 1 litre to cover 6 sheets of film but that same developer can be used for multiple batches.

For example, with Ilford DD-X, diluted 1+4, the stated capacity for I litre is 10 rolls of 135/36 film - 40 sheets of 4x5. But that figure depends on the figures provided by the developer manufacturer.

1 litre of both stop and fix should also easily cover that much film.

[Ron Marshall]

All manufacturers list a developers capacity, usually in terms of minimum volume of stock developer required per 80 square inches of film. For example: for Xtol it is 100ml of stock for 80 square inches. 80 square inches is 4 sheets of 4x5 film, so for each 4x5 sheet, 25ml of stock Xtol is required (I usually put in a bit more to be safe).

If you are using Xtol at a dilution of 1:3 and developing six sheets, then you require:

6 x 25ml = 150 ml of developer and 450ml of water for a total of 600ml working strength developer.

For stop you just need enough to cover the film. Use single shot and discard.

For fixer, there is also a capacity, and a shelf-life for the stock and working solutions. I keep track of how many sheets I fix and discard when I reach 75% of the manufacturers stated capacity. But, I always do a clearing test before each use.

[seven/9]

i would asked myself if i was going to do bulk negative processing again. if your answer is yes. try calling up photo shops in nyc for cheap 4x5 tanks. under $20.00 each. 5-6 tanks could met your total needs. developer - stopbath - fixer - hypoclear - wash tank & photoflo agent. a developer w replenisher to save working developer soup. try to make sure the tanks come with a lid to prevent oxidation of developer & fixer. go luck. oh: i almost forgot. if you decide to keep the setup for long term devepement. install a drainage valve to dump exhausted chemistry easly
seven/9

[Anthony Lewis]

I am confused on this issue, and I am just starting to process for the first time, using DDX. Firstly Joanna, Ilford do not state that 1 litre of DDX will process 10 X 135/36, but the figure is 16 X 135/36.

Secondly, Ron where does the figure 80 sq inches of film come from? I am not saying you are wrong, I am just wondering what is the source of this figure.

Manufacturers seem to compare everything with 1 roll of 35mm film/36 shots.

When I work out the area of 135/36, I multiply 35mm film width, by 36mm frame length, by 36 shots = 45360sq mm or 70 sq inches. BUT I have not taken into account any film leader which could take this figure easily to 80 sq inches - and thus sounds about right.

Then again if I subtracted an amount for the sprocket holes then this figure would be less again - and not by a totally insignificant amount - there are a lot of sprocket holes in a length of 135/36.!

What I am asking is, can you confirm that 80 sq inches is the correct amount for 135/36? (I see threads with many wildly inaccurate figures given, so I just want to confirm this figure.)

[Jim Burk]

If you want to print 8x10 contact sheets, how many negatives can you get on each sheet? 120 film - 12 negs, 4x5 - 4 sheets and so on. I think that is where the 80 square inches of film surface comes from. It is not exact, but close enough.

[Allen in Montreal]

......

Secondly, Ron where does the figure 80 sq inches of film come from? I am not saying you are wrong, I am just wondering what is the source of this figure.

Manufacturers seem to compare everything with 1 roll of 35mm film/36 shots........



Ilford seems to use 35mm these days,
Kodak uses 8x10 sheets.
Kodak use to put a small conversion chart X number of:
35mm 120, 4x5 5x7 = 8x10 but I have not seen that on their packaging in recent years.

I don't think most people want to calculate the area missing related to sprocket holes etc.

General rule of thumb is 1 roll of 35mm = 1 sht of 8x10.
General rule of thumb is 2 shts of 5x7 equal 1 sht of 8x10,
in fact they don't, there is a 10 sq inch difference, but most round 2 5x7 off to 1 8x10, and so on.

[cjbroadbent]

Here (http://books.google.com/books?id=lzAKYgLtTd4C&pg=PA31&lpg=PA31&dq=%22the+film+developing+cookbook%22+%22volume+recommendations%22&source=bl&ots=BhU6sGmMyP&sig=zXh6V5siSP5WhOsBhcowMIQR3Ec&hl=en&ei=vrVVS_PfO5ucmwOi7ZCgCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CAcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q=&f=false) is the link to chapter4 of Anchell and Troop. "Developer volume recommendations for 8x10 inches of film". It gives all the answers to the question.
In Patterson tubes and the orbital I find it best develop with two seperate doses for a total of 300ml for one 8x10 or four 4x5s. Fourty sheets of 4x5, in a 13 liter Kodak tank with racks should go four times ten without replenishment in D76. But you need stop, fix, and wash tanks too.

[Pete Watkins]

I'll go along with Chritsopher, in a Patterson Orbital tank I use 300ml of liquid (dev, stop (water), fix ) to four sheets of film. Many use less but that is what I do. I use home brewed Perceptol or D-76 diluted 1-1. I find that this is economical enough for me. 150 ml of developer to 4 sheets of film plus 150 ml of distilled water or de-ionised water, I'm not complaining!
Pete.