View Full Version : Blue splotches on TMX100 after development

Dave Tolcher
6-Jan-2002, 13:52
I have developed a couple of sets of TMX100 negatives in a recently acquired Pat erson orbital processor. I was really really pleased with the first set - develo ped in perceptol 1:3 for 15mins. The second set have nearly all got blue splotch es on them which could be incomplete removal of the antihalation layer or someth ing else.... ? Can anyone confirm what has caused the problem and whether the ne gatives are salvagable ? I still have the 'B' set that can be developed but I wa nt to make sure that I understand what has caused this before risking them.



neil poulsen
6-Jan-2002, 14:31
For what format?

Daniel luu Van Lang
6-Jan-2002, 14:52
Hi, David I already have that kind of problem, with my first set of TMX 100. The splotches are mallow-blue aren't they? I think it's the tanning mask which is incompletely remove. Your fixing time is too short, you can double it, your second set can be save, you just have to wet your film and fix it one more time, until the fixer dissolve all the mask. Anyway, I have enlarged negatives with the splotches and it seems to me there were no problem with it. Hope that could help you, Regards

Dave Tolcher
6-Jan-2002, 16:42
Thanks for the responses. The format is 5X4. I will try refixing - I gave it 8 minutes so may be my fixer is dead. They are a mallow blue and are fading to mauve over time.

Best regards


Jeff Scott
6-Jan-2002, 19:19
TMX has a tendency to exhaust fixer quicker than other films. Definitely use fresh rapid fixer for 5 minutes, then use Orbit Bath or Permawash for 2 minutes to totally clear your negs and they should be perfectly clear.

Labwork - the Black & White Lab, Cleveland, Ohio, USA

7-Jan-2002, 02:03
hi dave

at one point i had a blue sheen to my films which was caused by "dichrilic fog". the only way i was able to remove the blue metalic layer / spotches from my film was through the use of farmers reducer.

maybe others have had different experience, or have a better way of removing the "blue stuff".

good luck solving your problem john

John Hicks
7-Jan-2002, 02:13
I've seen mentioned here and there that _not_ using a stop bath can cause dichro ic fog.

I don't believe there's any good reason to avoid using stop unless you're usin g a high-carbonate developer.

Also, could be you got insufficient fixation. Be sure to use fresh rapid fix a nd give plenty of agitation, continuous if possible. Use an HCA.

Dave Tolcher
7-Jan-2002, 04:11
A quick update - I refixed the film and the blue splotches disappeared almost instantly. I suspect that I have not grooved the based of the orbital processor sufficiently and some areas of the back of the film were not in contact with enough chemicals.

No damage done and something extra learnt - thanks to you all.


7-Jan-2002, 10:06
I believe that's why John Sexton says to use T-Max RS developer.

7-Jan-2002, 16:13
hi again if you are using the tmax developer and not tmax rs, you will most likely get dichrilic fog. kodak specificly recommends rs developer for large format films 4x5 + whether it is processed in tanks, trays or in rotary systems (rs = r-otary s-ystems).

- john

jeff schraeder
7-Jan-2002, 18:37
I sometimes have a similar problem when my wash water is too cold. I use a fix tester frequently to make sure my fix is still good. Even if it stll tests good I discard it after using three TMax-RS 757ml size containers of developer or after three months, whichever is sooner. I use the developer 1 shot style at 1:9. About 1 out of 50 rolls or 1 out of 50 sheets of large format will still exhibit some residual stain for me.

7-Jan-2002, 19:21
RS= Replenished Systems....TMAX RS is a great deeptank developer, and even though people seem to use it okay diluted, it's designed to be used full strength as a replenished developer....it works great for TMX though, and you really shouldn't have any problems with fresh rapid fix, and fresh wash aid like hypo clear, or permawash. I don't think this is a dichroic fog problem, but more of a fixer or a problem with the actual tube....