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View Full Version : Aero ektar 2,5 Lens and Studio Strobes, Is it Posible?



lambis
13-Sep-2009, 05:50
I finaly got a Aero ektar lens for the wonderfull bokeh and a Speed Graphic camera.

What i am not really happy about this is that i cant use it other cameras and with studio strobes due the focal plane shutter where the film exposed in the same time.

So i am searching for altenatives as a extern shutter system where i can use strobes and or a pocket wizzard. This will give me to the chance to use Aero Ektar with any 4x5 camera that will give me more movements.

Any tips and experience, solutions are welcome.

Frank Petronio
13-Sep-2009, 07:02
Get a Sinar P along with a Sinar Shutter and a sacrificial Sinar F2 to use for parts. Or assemble a Sinar Norma system. Mount the lens on a Sinar lensboard and use the Sinar shutter with flash sync. That's roughly $1500 not including a very sturdy tripod.

Or, why would you need strobes with a f/2.5 lens? Models wouldn't exactly melt under the modeling lamps.

lambis
13-Sep-2009, 07:21
Hi Frank and thanks for the tips. So you say i use the Modeling light of the strobe to shoot studio? hmm not bad idea as long they are strong. No i like to use for time to time a studio light with the Aero but most i like to use the Aerso with a Better camera as the speed graphic in terms off movements, exchange lenses and a more acurate shutter as my FP shutter. I take a close look at a sinar shutter if i can find one. From what i fell the shutter will work only with Sinar cameras right?

Sevo
13-Sep-2009, 07:48
Get a Sinar P along with a Sinar Shutter and a sacrificial Sinar F2 to use for parts.

The sinar shutter is too narrow for my Aero Ektar, and vignettes down to about f/4 - with the latter mounted so that its rear is as close to the shutter as possible and the latest (a bit wider) shutter, it might perhaps do f/2.5 without vignetting, but with metalwork to the lens, auxiliary standard and bellows and the much more expensive last generation shutter you are unlikely to save anything compared to the (much superior and equally fast) Xenotar 150mm f/2.8 in shutter.

Sevo

Sevo
13-Sep-2009, 07:57
From what i fell the shutter will work only with Sinar cameras right?

It will only directly fit cameras with sinar-compatible bellows attachment - but these were used by a variety of other brands. And it can be made to fit pretty much anything with a front standard at least 15cm square if you have a adapter made - even smaller, if you can make do with a corresponding loss in downward movement.

Frank Petronio
13-Sep-2009, 08:05
If you do a little research you will find an entire world of vintage lenses that you may like better than the Aero-Ektar, and for the most part they are inexpensive, at least until our friend Jim Galli popularizes one and its price shoots through the roof.

Also focusing such a fast lens on a breathing human takes a lot of practice and excellent models.

Paul Fitzgerald
13-Sep-2009, 08:52
"So i am searching for altenatives as a extern shutter system where i can use strobes and or a pocket wizzard. This will give me to the chance to use Aero Ektar with any 4x5 camera that will give me more movements."

you can front-mount a flash-synched Packard shutter, looks ugly but works well

OR

you can mount the Packard to the rear of a compendium lens shade, looks cleaner and will adapt to any camera large enough for the Ektar.

lambis
13-Sep-2009, 09:19
Yeah there are many great lenses out there and sharp to and i tok my risk with the Aero msot becauce of the characteristics and the feeling of this lens BUT i am sure others are out there that are to Magical.
Yes stable models you need to have but i have those and i have last day discover that 2.5 is not needed att all as 4.6 do a great work to in full body and its more easy to focus to.
About the Packard shutter Paul i have read and SKgames told me front mount to but rear behind the compentium shade sounds as a clean solution.
Off course Price is a issue to as if i go to high up i can easy get a 150 Xenotar with Shuttler. But i was lite unlucky to find enough portrait & model photos done with a 150 xenotar wide open.

Dave Wooten
13-Sep-2009, 09:46
Focus, turn out the lights and pop with strobe.

Bosaiya
13-Sep-2009, 11:25
Focus, turn out the lights and pop with strobe.

That's what I do. Focus, lights off, open the shutter, manually pop, close the shutter. Because the shutter is open for a relatively long time there is a slight amount of secondary blur from ambient light, which I find pleasing.

bbjorkum
13-Sep-2009, 12:34
These are taken with Aero Ektar and strobes:

http://www.bjartebjorkum.com/photo_2227770.html

http://www.bjartebjorkum.com/photo_2149896.html

http://www.bjartebjorkum.com/photo_1666642.html

Piece of cake. Speed Graphic. Use T and press twice as fast as you can.

lambis
13-Sep-2009, 16:01
Hi Bjarte Nice to meet you hier to. I dont get you now ...Use T and press twice as fast as you can.?? Are tou shooting in total darkness? How you trigger the strobes.. have i miss something?

Bosaiya
13-Sep-2009, 16:15
Trigger them manually either with your flash meter or a hotshoe adapter.

1) Focus
2) Turn off the lights
3) Open the shutter
4) Trigger the strobes
5) Close the shutter
6) Turn the lights back on (optional)

Frank Petronio
13-Sep-2009, 17:49
Bjarte's photos with the Aero makes it look like the people are cut-outs. Are you sure that is pleasing?

Bosaiya
13-Sep-2009, 20:08
Bjarte's photos with the Aero makes it look like the people are cut-outs. Are you sure that is pleasing?

I have no real opinion on whether or not Bjarte's particular photos are pleasing, they are more resultant of light placement than the mechanics used to trigger the light. The "open, flash, close" technique is only one tool in the larger toolbox required to build the photo, it's up to the craftsman to make use of it as they see fit.

bbjorkum
14-Sep-2009, 02:56
Hi Bjarte Nice to meet you hier to. I dont get you now ...Use T and press twice as fast as you can.?? Are tou shooting in total darkness? How you trigger the strobes.. have i miss something?

Nice to meet you here too, Lambis.

First you need one of these to connect the flash to your focal plane shutter on the Speed Graphic:

http://www.paramountcords.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BP-PF

Then attach a cable release to the body release of the Speed Graphic. Focus on your lovely model. Set the focal plane shutter to T. Insert the film and remove the dark slide. Then press the release twice as fast as you can: first for opening the shutter and trigging the flash, and second for closing the shutter. Depending on how strong your modelling light is, it could be wise to turn it off before taking the picture. Only you can decide.

This works fine.

Please also take a look at this gentleman's site:

http://www.johndesq.com/graflex/fpsync.htm

That my models should look like cut-outs, I can't understand.

Bjarte

bbjorkum
14-Sep-2009, 03:04
An electronic flash can also be used in almost the same manner with a Graflex Super D. Only with this camera you trigger the flash from shutter setting 0, where the curtain is fully open when taking the picture. This gives an exposure time of 1/5 of a second. An Aero Ektar can also be used for close up work on this camera. I haven't tried this yet, but soon ... I imagine this should make flash portraits a real joy to do.

S. Preston Jones
14-Sep-2009, 06:00
The 178 f2.5 Aero Ektar is a neat lens. I was lucky and have one in a Synchromatic Alphax shutter. I think the shutter in a #5. Since I put all of my lenses in 4x4 boards, i put this lens in a 4x4 aluminum board and can use it on any of my view cameras via adapter boards. Outfits such as lensn2shutter and Grimes and others can do the shutter mounting. If you do not want to use one of the techniques mentions earlier in the post, this could work. I have no idea which method would be the most cost effective for you. Good luck.

Preston

lambis
14-Sep-2009, 08:09
Bjarte
Yes nice to meet you hier and greatings from Dean to :-)

Now i get it!!! and as its look is a neat solution. The Paramount cord is not expensive and if i atach it to my pocket wizard would do the job. As i have understand this work just in T mode ( dont get why its not working in slower speeds as 1/30 but maybe this is way to fast as strobes are fast and curtain moves slow)

Even more faster would be if in some way we could atach a cable release to the shutter. Need to check if its possible.

Preston
What are the speed of the Synchromatic Alphax shutter? As i have see in internet they are T/B/10/25/50/100/200. Skgames told me jsut about a Ilex #5 shutter front mounted. How is the Alphax mounted in you aero?

S. Preston Jones
14-Sep-2009, 10:16
LAMBIS
Lens/ shutter combination is conventional between the lens configuration. Front elements in front and rear elements at the rear. Shutter speeds 1/2, 1/5, 1/10/ 1/25, 1/50, B and T. F-Stops 2.5, 4, 5.6, 8, 11, 16 and 22. Flash connection is bi-pole like the Paramount in an earller post. Lensn2shutter on their web page suggest that they may have one of these shutters. I have no idea of installation cost.

Preston

bbjorkum
14-Sep-2009, 14:17
Hi Lambis.

You can only use the electronic flash on the Speed Graphic when the shutter is completely open. This is the case only when you use the T position. On every other speed there is a slith with various width running over the film plane. When using flash bulbs, the bulbs burn sufficiently long to be used on 1/1000 of a second. You can attach the cable release directly to the body release on the Speed Graphic. Make sure the body release is set to release the curtain, not the between the lens shutter. There is a switch on the shutter panel on the body, and it should thus be set to Back. Good luck!

Bjarte

bbjorkum
14-Sep-2009, 14:18
By the way, www.skgrimes.com can surely mount the Aero Ektar to a #5 shutter.

lambis
19-Sep-2009, 02:32
Thanks to anyone.
I have already order a Bi Polar cable and have asked AKgrimes for a shutter mount. Lets see what they will say. Is some wasy i feel more secure with a shutter as i am not 100% sure how acurate my focal plane shutter is but maybe i just worrie to much as everything is new for me :-)

lambis
4-Oct-2009, 02:50
Keeping upgrade....

Got the bipolar cable and have tested Bjarte's technic and its work just as a dream. Sad i have not a scanner to show u folks some polas. I have mettering the light to 1/30 & 1/5 and i have not see a big diference in exposue, so i think my fingers are between 1/30 to 1/5 fast. Again works very good in T mode.

Still a shutter would be a great adition as i could use the lens to any camera but its so hard to find a Alphax shutter.

bbjorkum
4-Oct-2009, 03:24
An Ilex #5 might do the trick as well:

http://cgi.ebay.com/Gundlach-305mm-f6-3-Radar-8x10-Ilex-5-Universal_W0QQitemZ110440279453QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Cameras?hash=item19b6c0ed9d&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

http://cgi.ebay.com/CALUMET-CALTAR-375-MM-F-6-3-COATED-LENS-W-ILEX-5_W0QQitemZ140347782289QQcmdZViewItemQQptZFilm_Cameras?hash=item20ad613491&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

lambis
4-Oct-2009, 04:45
Thanks Bjarte.
SKgames told me that the Illex 5 works only frontmount , a solution not that good for me as i use always lens shades and filters.

Bosaiya
20-Oct-2009, 15:48
A friend of mine is fighting cancer. We did some photos on the eve of his therapy. These were shot with an open flash.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2572/4029766877_6093636e66.jpg

I had some trouble getting the flash to pop on this second one and the shutter was open for several seconds as you can see from the ghosting around his cheek and wrist.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2563/4029766883_b414f2520e.jpg

Robert Hughes
21-Oct-2009, 10:12
Good luck with your friend's treatment. Even today, the chances for recovery aren't much better than even. Give him the support you can.