Newb needs some B&W film advice

[Michael Lloyd]

Howdy... When I saw newb I mean new to LF. I shoot almost daily with DSLR's (1DsMKII, 1DMKIII, and 1DsMKIII) so "photography" isn't the issue here.

I'm so out of touch with film these days its not funny. I've got a pair of Hassy's that I've shot one frame with in the last 2 years. I've got a Linhof Master Technika that I have yet to shoot. So far all that I've done with it is look at the world upside down :cool:

But... I'm on a mission. The Linof and I are going to learn how to use each other this year come hell or high water. I've got 2 boxes of Polaroid 55 but I have been advised (on this forum) that I DO NOT want to practice with it. Besides that, it's not sheet film. I want the "whole experience" so to speak. So... I'm looking for sheet film. I have some Fuji film packs (quick whatevers) ordered but I want to use sheet film and I want to try black and white.

For no reason other than name recognition, I am looking at:

Ilford HP5+
Ilford FP4+
Ilford Delta Pro 100

I'm primarily interested in landscape photography for the moment so I am leaning towards Delta Pro 100. Since I know almost nothing about film selection I am open to any and all suggestions.

Gracias and thanks...

[Robert Oliver]

hp5 will give you faster shutter speeds and is good for landscapes in numerous situations. Especially if it's breezy or windy. Easy film to work with that looks good. my2cents

[Ron Marshall]

All are fine films, as well there are T-max 400, Tri-x, Fuji Acros.

You can't go wrong with any of the above, but FP4 has pleasant grain and good exposure and processing latitude; it is a bit more forgiving of errors than Delta.

It pairs very well with Xtol.

Good luck with LF, Enjoy!

[Ken Lee]

This is an often-asked question here. Most answers are anectodal: "Try this one.", "I like that one.", etc.

What few will tell you, is why. Fewer still will show you a series of test shots that demonstrate how one is better than another.

Keep in mind that it's not just film: it's the film+developer combination.

You might find it helpful to find people whose photos have a look you like, and try out the film/developer combination they use.

[Michael Lloyd]

Thanks all,

I don't have a darkroom. I will have to send/take the exposed film to a lab unfortunately.

I understand what you are saying but at the moment I am stuck with trusting someone else with my darkroom needs.

Ken- Good point... I may just adopt the try this approach and see what I like in various situations.

[David Hedley]

Michael, in that case may I suggest you ask at the lab that will develop your film what chemistry they use, and whether there is a particular film that they 'know' how to develop. Having said that, it is not difficult to develop your own film.

[Michael Lloyd]

Michael, in that case may I suggest you ask at the lab that will develop your film what chemistry they use, and whether there is a particular film that they 'know' how to develop. Having said that, it is not difficult to develop your own film.

Good idea.

A long time ago I developed and printed my own B&W film. I will probably get back into it. Mostly because I don't like leaving my work to someone else. For now, I will be happy if I can figure out how to use my Linof.

Thanks everyone.

[Wallace_Billingham]

whatever film you decide on, I would pick one film and use that 100% of the time until you really get the hang of using your camera and know your film/developer combo. Once you have that nailed down you can then move on to try other films.

When you are first starting out you have so many other variables to toss in a whole new set by trying different films is really counter productive.

If I were in your shoes I would go with a faster film that is not T-Grain. That would be Kodak Tri-X or Ilford HP5. They are very forgiving, and if you are sending off to a lab, the lab will be very familiar with them.

[Lenny Eiger]

I want the "whole experience" so to speak. So... I'm looking for sheet film. I have some Fuji film packs (quick whatevers) ordered but I want to use sheet film and I want to try black and white.

What comes after exposing film? Are you going to develop it - in tanks, trays, rotary processor? Will you print it using a darkroom, or do you intend to scan the film, and with what?

One has to answer those questions before you can come up with the right film.

Lenny

[Michael Lloyd]

What comes after exposing film? Are you going to develop it - in tanks, trays, rotary processor? Will you print it using a darkroom, or do you intend to scan the film, and with what?

One has to answer those questions before you can come up with the right film.

Lenny

I fully appreciate what you are saying Lenny. I really do... but at this point I am just trying to get into LF film shooting. I've had most of what I need to shoot the images for over two years and I have never shot a single frame. In that time I focused in digital photography and the digital darkroom. So at this point... I'm just learning to open my eyes... your talking about running :) For now... no darkroom. In time, I suspect that it will come. Yes, absolutely, I would like to scan the film.

[Lenny Eiger]

I fully appreciate what you are saying Lenny. I really do... but at this point I am just trying to get into LF film shooting. I've had most of what I need to shoot the images for over two years and I have never shot a single frame. In that time I focused in digital photography and the digital darkroom. So at this point... I'm just learning to open my eyes... your talking about running :) For now... no darkroom. In time, I suspect that it will come. Yes, absolutely, I would like to scan the film.

The go with the Delta. I wouldn't recommend the HP5. I also would suggest you get to developing your film as soon as possible. It's rare that labs can develop b&w properly, with few notable exceptions...

Lenny

[Brian Ellis]

Phil Davis used to do a demo in his workshops showing the effect of using different film developers. The point of the demo was to show that changing developers resulted in bigger, more obvious differences than changing films.

FWIW, my preferred film is HP5+. It appears to me, solely on the basis of observation and not any scientific tests, to have smoother tonal gradations in the midtones than my other film, which was TMax 100 until Kodak discontinued Readyloads. It also allows the use of faster shutter speeds than 100 speed films like FP4+ and TMax 100. The additional stop or two of shutter speed can be important with landscapes when there's a gentle breeze and foliage is moving back and forth. But until you start processing your own I'd suggest doing as others have said and see what your lab has to say.

[Ed Richards]

Given your gear, I am betting that film cost is not a major constraint. If you are going to use lab processing, then I would recommend something they know how to do: color negative film. You will get consistent processing, and then you can scan the film and convert to black and white. You also get the benefit of being able to do virtual filters. The films are great, with wonderful range. If I had a lab nearby and more money, I would probably do this.

[h2oman]

My advice is to start developing your own film right away. I started LF less than 2 years ago, using color transparencies because I like the work of folks like David Muench. My tastes have shifted to B&W since then, so I started shooting B&W film. I had never developed a bit of film in my life, but found developing to be pretty simple.

I am using BTZS tubes and a small assortment of stuff that people gave me or that I bought at the dollar store. I develop in the tubes and then stick the tubes in an 11x14 developing tray with stop bath. A local guy gave me some old trays and a Gralab timer. The owner of the local camera shop lent me, on very long terms, some stainless tanks and film hangars that I use for fixing and washing. The tanks and BTZS tube set are the only fancy things I have. Oh yeah, I bought a developing thermometer. I mix developer and fixer in a pitcher, stirring with plastic spoons from the dollar store. I measure developer with a plastic drink bottle that I marked in 2 oz increments myself.

I use all this in a basement bathroom that adjoins a guest room. I darken the guest room, then close the bathroom door. I use a safelight when opening the BTZS tubes and putting them in the stop bath and then into the fixer, although many say that is not necessary. Go to Youtube and search for something like BTZS 4x5 film developing to see a video of how that goes.

I'd say there is a chance you could buy stuff here by posting a "Want To Buy". Good luck and have fun!

[Ed Richards]

If you want to develop and scan, just get a Jobo 3010, a used rotaing base from Ebay, and a changing bag. Forget the darkroom and all that mess. I have done a few thousand sheets this way, no problems. But if you can afford it, go the color route and save all the hassle. If this were a few years back, the advice would be shoot a lot of Poloroid - the best way to learn the camera.

[seabird]

If you want to develop and scan, just get a Jobo 3010, a used rotaing base from Ebay, and a changing bag. Forget the darkroom and all that mess. I have done a few thousand sheets this way, no problems.

+1 on what Ed said about using a Jobo (or similar). You do not need a darkroom if you use a Jobo for developing - just a changing bag to load the tank. And you will learn so much more and get better results if you can adjust your developing time to match the subject brightness range of the image - something your lab may not be able (or willing) to do. It is not expensive to acquire the equipment and materials required to develop film. As others have suggested, just pick a film and developer and stick with it - for me that now FP4+ and Rodinal.

Best of luck and enjoy using the Technika :-)

[Michael Lloyd]

Are you guys talking about the CPP-2 or just the 3010 tank and the rollers?

The CPP-2 is a bit out of range right now :D but dang... that sure would be cool. On the other hand, as long as I stick with B&W I don't need all of the bells and whistles right? Just the tank, rollers, and chemicals...

[Mike1234]

Right!! But I would recommend SS tanks and hangars if you can afford them.

[seabird]

Are you guys talking about the CPP-2 or just the 3010 tank and the rollers?

... as long as I stick with B&W I don't need all of the bells and whistles right? Just the tank, rollers, and chemicals...

Correct, just search e**y for a 2nd hand 2551 tank and 2509N reels (or 3010 if you are feeling wealthy). Get a few scraps of wood and some wheels from a DIY store to make your own "skateboard" roller base, and you're good to go.

Cheers