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Keith Tapscott.
13-Aug-2009, 14:03
It seems that Mr. Davies finds that FP4 Plus film with a 2x Yellow-Filter on his lens and an exposure based on 1/30th at f/11 for sunny conditions and 1/30th at f/8 for cloudy-bright conditions (or equivalent) provide him with negatives that he likes with his standard processing method for landscapes. Now what do you techies and perfectionist think? :eek: :D
http://www.johndavies.uk.com/atec.htm

Ari
13-Aug-2009, 14:07
Whatever floats your [proverbial] boat.

ic-racer
13-Aug-2009, 14:38
All exposure index systems (Personal EI, ASA, ISO) are based on trial and error and evaluation of prints. The technical considerations of exposure calculation (or estimation) come into play when you want to duplicate your results without having to make a bunch of prints and locate a panel of observers :)

seabird
13-Aug-2009, 15:13
Now what do you techies and perfectionist think? :eek: :D
http://www.johndavies.uk.com/atec.htm

I'm neither a techie nor a perfectionist but that wont stop me from answering. :)

Clearly it works for Mr Davies. I'd be proud to have some of the images on his site in my portfolio!

Unfortunately, the cloudy conditions setting wouldn't work for me - well not with one of my lenses anyway. You see, my 300/f9 wont open to f8 !

:D

Ken Lee
13-Aug-2009, 15:27
The old "Sunny 16" rule-of-thumb is to shoot under bright sun, using a shutter speed equal to the film speed, at f/16. For example, for a film whose speed is 50, we would shoot at 1/50 at f/16 under sunny conditions.

1/30th at f/11 is the same as 1/15 at f/16. Using a Yellow filter with compensation of 1 stop, that comes to 1/30 at f/16, which suggests that he rates the film at an ISO of 30. If his filter factor is 2 stops, then he's rating the film at 60.

Given that many Zone System types rate FP-4 at around 50, his approach is quite traditional and unremarkable.

Even more helpful, would be to use a light meter, so as not to waste film with guesswork.

Keith Tapscott.
14-Aug-2009, 06:59
The old "Sunny 16" rule-of-thumb is to shoot under bright sun, using a shutter speed equal to the film speed, at f/16. For example, for a film whose speed is 50, we would shoot at 1/50 at f/16 under sunny conditions.

1/30th at f/11 is the same as 1/15 at f/16. Using a Yellow filter with compensation of 1 stop, that comes to 1/30 at f/16, which suggests that he rates the film at an ISO of 30. If his filter factor is 2 stops, then he's rating the film at 60.

Given that many Zone System types rate FP-4 at around 50, his approach is quite traditional and unremarkable.

Even more helpful, would be to use a light meter, so as not to waste film with guesswork.

As you say, the nearest shutter time to the ISO rating is normally recommended with the sun behind you and a further stop more for side and back lighting with negative films. Another stop more exposure is then given for the yellow-filter, so in this case, I would say that the author is using an exposure index of 50-64.
I posted the link for fun more than anything, although some people might find the author`s page to be interesting to read for personal experiments.
I definitely agree with the last sentence. :)

jnantz
14-Aug-2009, 07:05
the simpler the better ...

Keith Tapscott.
14-Aug-2009, 07:08
I'm neither a techie nor a perfectionist but that wont stop me from answering. :)

Clearly it works for Mr Davies. I'd be proud to have some of the images on his site in my portfolio!

Unfortunately, the cloudy conditions setting wouldn't work for me - well not with one of my lenses anyway. You see, my 300/f9 wont open to f8 !

:DWhat a nuisance, if you to send it to me, I will dispose of it for you.;) :D