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Flea77
13-May-2009, 19:27
I just got a Cambo 4x5 complete set with a polaroid back and some really old film. I took it out, shot it, considering the film has been expired for 30 years, not bad. Now I have some really stupid questions I have yet to find answers to:

1) When loading the film into the holders I really can not help but touch it and I remember from bulk loading 35mm ages ago they said never touch it. How big a no-no is touching the film and sliding it into the holder (scratches on the back)?

2) When you remove the dark slide, why does light not enter the slot the slide was in and ruin the film? I would look, but idiot me loaded them all so I can not see if there is a flap or something that closes over the opening, DUH!

3) I have some 30 year old Tri-X that was kept in the fridge constantly until recently (week or so ago), what are the odds it will still have a decent image/any image?

4) I heard that polaroid is no longer making film for the instant back that I have, but fuji does. Does it work pretty much the same? Is there a particular model I need? Any specific film it uses?

5) Those of you who scan your 4x5, do you have it done at a lab? Special scanner? Do you just scan it on a standard flatbed (I seem to remember that not working so well on 35mm negs)? Or do you print first then scan the print on a flatbed?

6) Now that I have film loaded, what do I do with the exposed film when I need to remove it from the holders to make room for new film? Can you get old film boxes from somewhere to store exposed film before shipping it off? (remember, my first 4x5 so the boxes I have, have unexposed film in them and I do not want to mix it up.)

7) Are all 4x5 films notched in the same place? In other words, when I load into the holders, does it always go in the upper right?

Thanks in advance and if this is not in the right area please feel free to move it.

Allan

Alex Wei
13-May-2009, 20:03
1) When loading the film into the holders I really can not help but touch it and I remember from bulk loading 35mm ages ago they said never touch it. How big a no-no is touching the film and sliding it into the holder (scratches on the back)?

It should be no problem. Make sure you have a clean hand and also try to touch as little as possible. I have been loading 4X5 and 6.5X8.5 film for a while, never see my fingerprint on the negatives :)


2) When you remove the dark slide, why does light not enter the slot the slide was in and ruin the film? I would look, but idiot me loaded them all so I can not see if there is a flap or something that closes over the opening, DUH!

There is a light trap to prevent the film exposed to the light when you take the darkslide out. Make sure to take out the darkslide as smooth as possible to minimize the chance of light leak. Some people say avoid strong direct sunlight.


3) I have some 30 year old Tri-X that was kept in the fridge constantly until recently (week or so ago), what are the odds it will still have a decent image/any image?

No idea, but its should be easy to figure out by shooting some new film along with the old film and see how they compare


4) I heard that polaroid is no longer making film for the instant back that I have, but fuji does. Does it work pretty much the same? Is there a particular model I need? Any specific film it uses?

Don't know.


5) Those of you who scan your 4x5, do you have it done at a lab? Special scanner? Do you just scan it on a standard flatbed (I seem to remember that not working so well on 35mm negs)? Or do you print first then scan the print on a flatbed?

Depend on your purpose, for online sharing and small print, a good flatbed is enough, but for serious work, drum scanner is recommended.


6) Now that I have film loaded, what do I do with the exposed film when I need to remove it from the holders to make room for new film? Can you get old film boxes from somewhere to store exposed film before shipping it off? (remember, my first 4x5 so the boxes I have, have unexposed film in them and I do not want to mix it up.)

I have some film box for 4X5 if you want, you just pay for the shipping. Or you can go to your local store to see if they have any.


7) Are all 4x5 films notched in the same place? In other words, when I load into the holders, does it always go in the upper right?

Yes



Thanks in advance and if this is not in the right area please feel free to move it.

Allan

You are welcome :)

BTW, their no stupid questions, don't be afraid to ask.

venchka
13-May-2009, 20:39
The Polaroid thing:

If your holder takes individual Polaroid sheets with a paper sheath then there is no substitute. However, depending on the model holder (545 will work) you can use Fuji Quickloads. These are regular 4x5 film (color or b&w) in a self contained paper holder. Very nice for travellinglight. Expensive but worth it under certain circumstances.

Back to your holder. If your holder accepts Polaroid back film with 10 exposures, you're in luck. Fuji makes instant pack film. holder numbers are 405 or 550.

Come down on the 30th. Bring your stuff & we'll get you sorted out.

Are we having fun yet?

Wayne

Flea77
13-May-2009, 21:06
The Polaroid thing:

If your holder takes individual Polaroid sheets with a paper sheath then there is no substitute. However, depending on the model holder (545 will work) you can use Fuji Quickloads. These are regular 4x5 film (color or b&w) in a self contained paper holder. Very nice for travellinglight. Expensive but worth it under certain circumstances.

Back to your holder. If your holder accepts Polaroid back film with 10 exposures, you're in luck. Fuji makes instant pack film. holder numbers are 405 or 550.

Come down on the 30th. Bring your stuff & we'll get you sorted out.

Are we having fun yet?

Wayne

I pretty well figured out the holder (single pieces, paper covers) is useless after I run out of what I have so I suppose I am wondering what back I need to be able to do instant fuji film to test exposures?

I will be there on the 30th, assuming you tell me where and when :-)

Yes, I have been having a blast. Had today off so I took the rig to my local park and shot some more 30 year old instant. Still looks like garbage, but great practice! Now I have 12 double sided holders loaded with 30 year old Tri-X and brand new Delta 100 (5 and 7 holders respectively).

Learned something very important too, that box is HEAVY to carry around a park! Ordering a folding hand truck tomorrow morning!

Allan

Kirk Fry
13-May-2009, 23:14
The notch doesn't go in the upper right if you load your holders in the horizontal position.

Michael_4514
14-May-2009, 03:40
The notch doesn't go in the upper right if you load your holders in the horizontal position.

Sure it does, because "upper right hand corner" is an absolute reference to the holder and not relative to the person doing the holding :eek:

csant
14-May-2009, 04:07
4) I heard that polaroid is no longer making film for the instant back that I have, but fuji does. Does it work pretty much the same? Is there a particular model I need? Any specific film it uses?

I have no experience with Fuji instant film, but you might want to check out http://www.polapremium.com/ - and furthermore keep an eye on http://www.the-impossible-project.com/

venchka
14-May-2009, 05:05
I pretty well figured out the holder (single pieces, paper covers) is useless after I run out of what I have so I suppose I am wondering what back I need to be able to do instant fuji film to test exposures?

I will be there on the 30th, assuming you tell me where and when :-)

Yes, I have been having a blast. Had today off so I took the rig to my local park and shot some more 30 year old instant. Still looks like garbage, but great practice! Now I have 12 double sided holders loaded with 30 year old Tri-X and brand new Delta 100 (5 and 7 holders respectively).

Learned something very important too, that box is HEAVY to carry around a park! Ordering a folding hand truck tomorrow morning!

Allan

Allan,

If the individual sheet holder is a 545 you can use Fuji Quickloads. Don't toss it.

The ULF folks around here (this forum) use jogging strollers to transport their gear. Maybe one of them will pass on a model they like.

As soon as I know what the heck we're doing on the 30th I'll let you know.

Flea77
14-May-2009, 06:50
Allan,

If the individual sheet holder is a 545 you can use Fuji Quickloads. Don't toss it.

The ULF folks around here (this forum) use jogging strollers to transport their gear. Maybe one of them will pass on a model they like.

As soon as I know what the heck we're doing on the 30th I'll let you know.

I will keep the holder, Quickloads sounds interesting, may have to get a few.

I will use a folding hand truck because I can use it for work as well (been wanting an excuse to buy one), that will make it tax deductible :-)

Looking forward to it!

Allan

Flea77
14-May-2009, 06:54
Depend on your purpose, for online sharing and small print, a good flatbed is enough, but for serious work, drum scanner is recommended.

A little clarification..... When you say a good flatbed is enough for online sharing, are you scanning the negative, or a print from the negative. Online sharing would be the only reason I would want them scanned, otherwise I would just print them.



I have some film box for 4X5 if you want, you just pay for the shipping. Or you can go to your local store to see if they have any.

You are welcome :)

BTW, their no stupid questions, don't be afraid to ask.

I may do that, let me see what happens. Thanks for your answers!

Allan

Alex Wei
14-May-2009, 08:37
A little clarification..... When you say a good flatbed is enough for online sharing, are you scanning the negative, or a print from the negative. Online sharing would be the only reason I would want them scanned, otherwise I would just print them.



I may do that, let me see what happens. Thanks for your answers!

Allan

Allan, I meant scanning the negative. I use Epson 3200 right now. Pretty good for this purpose.

About the box, you can just send me a PM if you want them.

Jiri Vasina
14-May-2009, 09:18
Scanning the negative with a flatbed scanner like the older Epson 3200, slightly newer 4990, or newer V700/V750 is usually quite good. Depending on you expectations, and also skill with the processing software (Photoshop or whatever), you might even get results usable for something more than web-presentation.

I use a V700 scanner, scan my 13x18cm, process them digitally, and they're good for printing. I don't print much larger than 30x40cm (not larger than A3+ size) - that is max. 3x magnification, and the results are very good... Some say that you can even go a little further, up to 5x magnification, but the mileage may vary. Then there are those who only contact print, for who any magnification is bad... :) It all depends on your darkroom and computer skills...

Jiri

Brian Ellis
14-May-2009, 11:10
As Kirk said, where the notch goes depends on whether you load your holders in the horizontal or vertical position. If you go to www.butzi.net/articles/large format you'll see an illustrated guide to loading holders that you might find helpful.

Flea77
14-May-2009, 13:08
As Kirk said, where the notch goes depends on whether you load your holders in the horizontal or vertical position. If you go to www.butzi.net/articles/large format you'll see an illustrated guide to loading holders that you might find helpful.

Your link did not work.

Let me rephrase my question, if you know for a fact that one type of film loads with the notch in a specific position, do all films load with their notches in the same position? For example, I know when I hold the holder with the slots for the dark slide down and load from the top that Kodak TriX is supposed to have the notch in the upper right. Am I correct in assuming that when I load in the exact same position Ilford Delta 100 that the notch still goes in the upper right?

Allan

Flea77
14-May-2009, 13:11
Allan, I meant scanning the negative. I use Epson 3200 right now. Pretty good for this purpose.

About the box, you can just send me a PM if you want them.

I have a HP 5590 right now I will try then, it has a flatbed and will do 2400dpi at 48bit color so it might work OK.

I will let you know, I am checking locally first. Thanks!

Allan

MIke Sherck
14-May-2009, 13:30
Your link did not work.

Let me rephrase my question, if you know for a fact that one type of film loads with the notch in a specific position, do all films load with their notches in the same position? For example, I know when I hold the holder with the slots for the dark slide down and load from the top that Kodak TriX is supposed to have the notch in the upper right. Am I correct in assuming that when I load in the exact same position Ilford Delta 100 that the notch still goes in the upper right?

Allan

All sheet film has the notch in the same location, as far as I know. Not all sheet film has a unique notch pattern; inexpensive film sometimes just has a simple square notch and you can't tell what kind of film it is in the dark, but the notch is still in the same place.

Correction: sheet film which has been cut down from a larger size may not have a notch. For example, in theory you could cut a sheet of 8x10" film into four 4x5 sheets, but unless you put a notch in yourself while doing the cutting, three of those 4x5 sheet would not have a notch in them.

Gem Singer
14-May-2009, 13:30
Yes,

All individual cut film sheets have their notched section in the same location.

If you pick up a sheet of film, holding the notched section between the thumb and fore-finger of your right hand, with the notch is in the upper right corner, you will be looking at the emulsion side of the film.

Bob Salomon
14-May-2009, 13:35
"2) When you remove the dark slide, why does light not enter the slot the slide was in and ruin the film? I would look, but idiot me loaded them all so I can not see if there is a flap or something that closes over the opening, DUH!"

Many people will put a mark on the dark slide at the point where the film area is totally exposed so they can leave the slide in the holder while they make the exposure. While there is a light trap it can wear down and then it could leak light. Of course if you leave the slide in then you can't flip it over so you will need to have a system to indicate which holders have exposed film and which do not.

Charlie Strack
14-May-2009, 13:44
Re: Touching the film while loading.

Yes, it's very difficult to never touch the film when loading. (Even harder for 8x10, but about the same for 5x7). I have some older holders where the recess to lift the film to unload is so difficult to use (shallow) I have to slip something under the film to get it out--mostly I don't use those holders at all and use those where it's easier.

My trick for "no fingerprints": wash the dishes just before loading/unloading film. All the oil in the skin on your hands will be gone for 10-20 minutes before it can recover, so you don't have any oil to leave on the film!

Charlie

Jiri Vasina
14-May-2009, 15:38
...My trick for "no fingerprints": wash the dishes just before loading/unloading film. All the oil in the skin on your hands will be gone for 10-20 minutes before it can recover, so you don't have any oil to leave on the film!

Charlie

That's an advice. I had to lough out loud at that. But yes, that would work well... I'll try it myself... :)

Jiri

Lachlan 717
14-May-2009, 16:15
In relation to loading film, have a look at Youtube.

There are several useful videos there on loading film (and many other LF/lighting tips).

Lachlan.

Merg Ross
14-May-2009, 20:01
Many people will put a mark on the dark slide at the point where the film area is totally exposed so they can leave the slide in the holder while they make the exposure. While there is a light trap it can wear down and then it could leak light. Of course if you leave the slide in then you can't flip it over so you will need to have a system to indicate which holders have exposed film and which do not.[/QUOTE]

This is not a practice that I would recommend for field photography. Dark slides should be removed completely from the holder prior to exposure, flipped, and reinserted after exposure. It is wise, if using a darkcloth, to cover the holder. Also, with a little practice, the dark slide can be used as a lens shade, in some situations.

As noted above, leaving the slide in negates the very purpose of having a black or silver identifying tab.